mel jacobson on fri 16 aug 96
some thoughts on bad bisque pots and mistakes...i really think we should go
back to the theory of using the" HAMMER" on mistake pots.. you can put
bleach, honey, sugar, glue or any such thing on hot bisque, but they are
always thin glazes that will not hold up as first class pots. you would be
better served to break the pots and sell the shards in little pink bags for
people to put in the bottom of flower pots. (in fact if you used foil bags
you could sell them for six bucks.)
think of the time it takes to mess with bad pots...trying to glue cracks,
filling handle cracks, sanding lids to fit.... big waste of time and the
pots always come back to haunt you...they will embarras you some day and you
will wish you had hammered them. (a friend will buy it from you and then
show it to a potter that you really admire, and that person will think you
are a scummy potter.)
this also relates to good studio organization..why don't you use a colored
marker or stickers on the cone boxes... i use a green marker on 07 cone
boxes to keep from confusing them...
i remeber warren mackenzie saying years ago "you can throw twenty pots in
the time it takes to repair one lousy pot."
it also relates to the theory of "precious". you love what you do so much
that you cannot stand to think of throwing away anything your wonderful
hands have made...bull! it's just piles of clay until they come from the
kiln finished, and they have no value until someone pays the price for them.
SO, put out your best work, and get rid of the junk.
mel jacobson minnesota
ELIZABETH S. ANDERSON on fri 16 aug 96
Regarding the theory of using the hammer on overfired pots:
1. Overfired pots are not necessarily "bad" pots technically or
aesthetically.
2. The assertion that you can throw 20 pots in the time it takes to
rescue one bad pot is (obviously) based on the (false) assumption
that all pots are thrown. The time investment in handbuilding makes
some effort at rescue worth the effort.
While I certainly subscribe to any effort to save the world from more
junk, I just have to take exception to the idea that all results of any
kiln mistake is junk, or that one can't learn something from fiddling
with the result of a mistake or accident.
So there.
Pelly123@aol.com on fri 16 aug 96
Good Plan.....I keep my 06 cones on the back wall and my cone 6's on the
front wall so I have to walk to get either of them....gives me that little
inch to help me think....
Sue
Jack Troy on sat 17 aug 96
"1. Overfired pots are not necessarily 'bad' pots technically or
aesthetically."
This reminds me so much of the caption of a _NYer_ cartoon on my 'fridge,
entitled "Mob Psychologist:" A sterotypical mobster reclines on a sofa while the
psychologist looks up from his notes and says, "So, while extortion,
racketeering, and murder may be bad acts, they don't make you a bad person."
I admire the idealism in your post, inapplicable as it in in my own case.
Somehow it's the pots for which we must apologize that come back to haunt us. I
can't think of a single piece I've ever Kevorkianized that's come back to haunt
me.
Jack Troy, voting for the hammer on over-fired bisque-ware"
Don Sanami on sat 17 aug 96
Dear Jack, overfired bisque makes for good landfill. Isao/Don
ktighe on mon 19 aug 96
Jack Troy you have the answer for many over-bisqued pots. Don't cry over
bad pots-- suck it up and make new ones. They will invariably be better,
and one will be happier for it. The hammer can be creative. Use the
broken pieces as drainage for your plants.
Richard mahaffey on fri 23 aug 96
Hi,
I have seen the posts about overfired bisque pots and it has reminded me
of the definition of china that I was taught. China, you see is bisque
fired to the maturing point of the clay body with the pieces put in
saggars which first have a layer of placing sand put into them then more
placing sand then the next one is settled into the sand and so on till the
saggar is full. This process minimizes the warping. The "over fired
bisque" is then glazed with a very viscous glaze, usually lead glaze fired
to about cone three, and fired. This porduces ware with a vitreous
high fire body and bright colors usually associated with lower glaze
temperatures. BTW the glaze is usually craze free because the body is
vitreous. As an aside if my glaze crazes I usually check to see if the
body is vitreous first. If the body is not mature it will always, at
least
in my experience, cause the glaze to craze.
We have sucessfully glazed cone ten bisque with commercial cone 05 glaze
by heating the pot and applying a layer of glaze then putting successive
coats of glaze that adhear to the provious coats because of the organic
binders in the glaze.
Think before you hammer a learning experience, then if it is unsucessful
and you have learned all you can from it then hammer it.
Rick Mahaffey, Tacoma Community College,
Tacoma, Washington, USA
Toni Hall on mon 7 oct 96
Did you ever want to just reach into the "Trash Can" of your
computer and pull back something you dumped last week, and now find that
you need it desperately? That's how I feel about the over fired bisque
discussion of a couple of weeks ago. I thought to myself, "I won't ever do
that, so I won't need that information". DUMP! Well so much for good
intentions. I got so carried away breaking rules by trying my first
single-fire load, that I broke a few more along the way. Now I have a very
favorite piece that has been very over fired in the bisque state and I
don't know if it will ever accept a glaze. Can anyone help me be repeating
any of the overfired bisque info you saw on Clayart recently.
Thanks in advance.
T Hall
Phil Davenport on mon 7 oct 96
Toni:
I don't have the information that was posted BUT I have glazed overfired
pieces by heating the piece, in the kiln, then glazing it. The heat will
cause the water in the glaze to evaporate.
Good Luck!
Phil
Garland, Tx
On Mon, 7 Oct 1996, Toni Hall wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Did you ever want to just reach into the "Trash Can" of your
> computer and pull back something you dumped last week, and now find that
> you need it desperately? That's how I feel about the over fired bisque
> discussion of a couple of weeks ago. I thought to myself, "I won't ever do
> that, so I won't need that information". DUMP! Well so much for good
> intentions. I got so carried away breaking rules by trying my first
> single-fire load, that I broke a few more along the way. Now I have a very
> favorite piece that has been very over fired in the bisque state and I
> don't know if it will ever accept a glaze. Can anyone help me be repeating
> any of the overfired bisque info you saw on Clayart recently.
> Thanks in advance.
> T Hall
>
mel jacobson on wed 12 may 99
when big mistakes happen, and over fired bisque
is one of them, i have a saying....`mistakes are
best thrown out, hidden, buried`.
when one tries to make do with bad pots,
they will infect the entire next firing, break,
fall all over your best platter.
make a mess.
it is easier to remake the pots than fix up
the ruined ones.
unless.................a complex sculpture that has
taken 4 months to build gets caught in the act..
then you sorta, may, can fix it up........but it will
never be a number one again.
mel/mn
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
The Brinks on thu 13 may 99
At 11:52 AM 5/12/1999 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>when big mistakes happen, and over fired bisque
>is one of them, i have a saying....`mistakes are
>best thrown out, hidden, buried`.
>when one tries to make do with bad pots,
>they will infect the entire next firing, break,
>fall all over your best platter.
>make a mess.
>it is easier to remake the pots than fix up
>the ruined ones.
>unless.................a complex sculpture that has
>taken 4 months to build gets caught in the act..
>then you sorta, may, can fix it up........but it will
>never be a number one again.
>mel/mn
>http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>
>Not trying to refute anything Mel said, but if this happened to me
....just as I try not to fall in love with a pot until it's done, I am also
loath to throw it out until I'm sure it's really "unretrievable".
They won't want to absorb glaze. If you dip or pour, let the pots dry and
re-dip. This should give you enough glaze. Then when you fire, bring it
up slowly. I often have several "refires" in my glaze load and have no
breakage problems if I fire about the same climb as bisque. A lot of
glazes change in an interesting way if refired. Sometimes I've just made
bad decorating choices and I enjoy the challenge of seeing if I can save
the piece. Let us know what you decide to do !
Ann Brink in CA
e-mail billann@impulse.net
Warren Heintz on wed 28 jul 04
Here in the humid south my sculptures are taking
forever to dry,and it cause me to have ants in the
pants.
--- BJ Clark wrote:
> We fire to 06 at my college. Last semester, someone
> did exactly what
> you did and fired to 6 instead of 06 and to glaze we
> would just warm
> (gently) our pots with one of those handheld propane
> burners until they
> were pretty hot and then dip them then. That seemed
> to work best.
> Best of luck,
> BJ Clark
> In the Stinking freaking desert of Colorado where
> it's damn hot and my
> pots are drying out faster than my skin.
>
>
> On Jul 28, 2004, at 6:32 AM, Linda M wrote:
>
> > I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque
> fire. However, I
> > overfired
> > it I know. I went by the manual however I think I
> misunderstood it. It
> > had
> > firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6
> one it had for slow
> > bisque,
> > slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I went by
> the slow bisque for
> > my
> > firing. But I did notice that the temp. at the end
> of cycle was the
> > same as
> > the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What
> is the cone that you
> > use
> > to bisque fire for cone 6 clay? 2) Now that the
> pieces are not porous
> > anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all
> over my shelves or
> > will it
> > stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me
> will be greatly
> > appreciated. I do not have any literature on this
> type of thing.
> > Linda Marcoux
> >
> >
>
_______________________________________________________________________
> > _______
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
__________________________________
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Warren Heintz on wed 28 jul 04
Oh yea could you clarify that a bit for me? "warming
the pots... them dip them." To get the glazes to stick
I assume? W.
--- BJ Clark wrote:
> We fire to 06 at my college. Last semester, someone
> did exactly what
> you did and fired to 6 instead of 06 and to glaze we
> would just warm
> (gently) our pots with one of those handheld propane
> burners until they
> were pretty hot and then dip them then. That seemed
> to work best.
> Best of luck,
> BJ Clark
> In the Stinking freaking desert of Colorado where
> it's damn hot and my
> pots are drying out faster than my skin.
>
>
> On Jul 28, 2004, at 6:32 AM, Linda M wrote:
>
> > I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque
> fire. However, I
> > overfired
> > it I know. I went by the manual however I think I
> misunderstood it. It
> > had
> > firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6
> one it had for slow
> > bisque,
> > slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I went by
> the slow bisque for
> > my
> > firing. But I did notice that the temp. at the end
> of cycle was the
> > same as
> > the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What
> is the cone that you
> > use
> > to bisque fire for cone 6 clay? 2) Now that the
> pieces are not porous
> > anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all
> over my shelves or
> > will it
> > stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me
> will be greatly
> > appreciated. I do not have any literature on this
> type of thing.
> > Linda Marcoux
> >
> >
>
_______________________________________________________________________
> > _______
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
__________________________________
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Linda M on wed 28 jul 04
I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque fire. However, I overfired
it I know. I went by the manual however I think I misunderstood it. It had
firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6 one it had for slow bisque,
slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I went by the slow bisque for my
firing. But I did notice that the temp. at the end of cycle was the same as
the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What is the cone that you use
to bisque fire for cone 6 clay? 2) Now that the pieces are not porous
anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all over my shelves or will it
stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me will be greatly
appreciated. I do not have any literature on this type of thing.
Linda Marcoux
Mark Pitney on wed 28 jul 04
Hi Linda,
I don't have an electronic kiln so I do not know about programing different
cycles but I do my bisque to cone 04. Some people go a little lower--06-05 it
depends if you want the bisque to be a little more or less porous and that
depends on you. As for the over fired bisque yes you can glaze it, you just have
to be patient with the process. The pots are not as porous so they will not be
able to absorb the glaze as readily. If you have access to spraying glazes
that will be easier, if not just hold it in the glaze a little longer. Let it dry
before dipping or pouring a second coat. And I mean completely dry, the
second coat will just drip off if the first coat is not totally dry. It might take
some time just be patient. Good Luck
Cindy & Mark
The Mudpit
228 Manhattan Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11206
718-218-9424
mudpitnyc@aol.com
www.mudpitnyc.com
Ben Shelton on wed 28 jul 04
On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 08:32:17 -0400, Linda M wrote:
1) What is the cone that you use
>to bisque fire for cone 6 clay?
I have always used cone 03 in the sitter (cone 04 witness)
2) Now that the pieces are not porous
>anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all over my shelves or will it
>stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me will be greatly
>appreciated. I do not have any literature on this type of thing.
>Linda Marcoux
>
I just ran across web page for a commercial procelain manufacturer that had
the whole process from raw materials to final product in color photos.
Their process for firings was to fire to cone 6, then use a pebble washer
machine to grind down the pots surfaces smooth, then the pots are heated to
about 200 F. Once hot they are glazed in a spray booth, foots wiped and
fird to cone 6 for the glaze firing.
So, if you try heating your wares and testing the glaze coats thickness
with a piece that has been bisqued to your normal range, you should be able
to get the glaze on thick enough to work. The heat will evaporate the water
from the glaze on the high bisqued pieces where the water is absorbed into
the low bisques ones. It is doable.
Good luck and let us know how it goes, Ben
BJ Clark on wed 28 jul 04
We fire to 06 at my college. Last semester, someone did exactly what
you did and fired to 6 instead of 06 and to glaze we would just warm
(gently) our pots with one of those handheld propane burners until they
were pretty hot and then dip them then. That seemed to work best.
Best of luck,
BJ Clark
In the Stinking freaking desert of Colorado where it's damn hot and my
pots are drying out faster than my skin.
On Jul 28, 2004, at 6:32 AM, Linda M wrote:
> I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque fire. However, I
> overfired
> it I know. I went by the manual however I think I misunderstood it. It
> had
> firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6 one it had for slow
> bisque,
> slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I went by the slow bisque for
> my
> firing. But I did notice that the temp. at the end of cycle was the
> same as
> the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What is the cone that you
> use
> to bisque fire for cone 6 clay? 2) Now that the pieces are not porous
> anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all over my shelves or
> will it
> stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me will be greatly
> appreciated. I do not have any literature on this type of thing.
> Linda Marcoux
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
wayne on thu 29 jul 04
Warren:
You need to prepare a solution of 6CH2OH and allow it to thicken
slightly. Then put it on your shoes.
If one spreads this solution on the tops of one's footwear, it will
keep most ants from climbing further. LOL
Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)
(6CH2OH is common sugar)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Heintz"
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Over fired bisque
> Here in the humid south my sculptures are taking
> forever to dry,and it cause me to have ants in the
> pants.
> --- BJ Clark wrote:
>
> > We fire to 06 at my college. Last semester, someone
> > did exactly what
> > you did and fired to 6 instead of 06 and to glaze we
> > would just warm
> > (gently) our pots with one of those handheld propane
> > burners until they
> > were pretty hot and then dip them then. That seemed
> > to work best.
> > Best of luck,
> > BJ Clark
> > In the Stinking freaking desert of Colorado where
> > it's damn hot and my
> > pots are drying out faster than my skin.
> >
> >
> > On Jul 28, 2004, at 6:32 AM, Linda M wrote:
> >
> > > I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque
> > fire. However, I
> > > overfired
> > > it I know. I went by the manual however I think I
> > misunderstood it. It
> > > had
> > > firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6
> > one it had for slow
> > > bisque,
> > > slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I went by
> > the slow bisque for
> > > my
> > > firing. But I did notice that the temp. at the end
> > of cycle was the
> > > same as
> > > the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What
> > is the cone that you
> > > use
> > > to bisque fire for cone 6 clay? 2) Now that the
> > pieces are not porous
> > > anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all
> > over my shelves or
> > > will it
> > > stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me
> > will be greatly
> > > appreciated. I do not have any literature on this
> > type of thing.
> > > Linda Marcoux
> > >
> > >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________
___
> > > _______
> > > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list or
> > change your subscription
> > > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> > reached at
> > > melpots@pclink.com.
> > >
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________
__________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change
> > your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> > reached at melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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>
____________________________________________________________________
__________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Anne Webb on thu 29 jul 04
hey linda..
>. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What is the cone that you use
>to bisque fire for cone 6 clay?
usually, you want to bisque somewhere in the cone 08 to cone 04 range. 04
is what most people fire to and is what is typically recommended by clay
manufacturers.
>2) Now that the pieces are not porous anymore what will the glaze do? Will
>it run all
>over my shelves or will it stick to the piece?
bisqued to cone 6 eh? bummer. hope you didnt have a large load.
best option? chunk them and start again. the glaze wont adhere enough,
even with pre-heating, to look right. try dipping one and you'll see.
trust me, you will inevitably be disappointed in the fired result.
the next pots you make will be better anyway :)
best of luck.
anne
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Cynthia Bracker on thu 29 jul 04
I agree that the best thing to do is junk the pots and start over.
However, if you're desperate to save them, you might try adding some
APT-II to the glaze. It will help it adhere to the less porous clay.
It's also very useful if you ever try to re-glaze something.
Cindy Bracker
Linda M wrote:
>I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque fire. However, I overfired
>it I know. I went by the manual however I think I misunderstood it. It had
>firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6 one it had for slow bisque,
>slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I went by the slow bisque for my
>firing. But I did notice that the temp. at the end of cycle was the same as
>the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What is the cone that you use
>to bisque fire for cone 6 clay? 2) Now that the pieces are not porous
>anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all over my shelves or will it
>stick to the piece? Any help anyone can give me will be greatly
>appreciated. I do not have any literature on this type of thing.
>Linda Marcoux
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
Dorie Mickelson on thu 29 jul 04
Hi Linda, for items to be glaze fired to cone 6 (2232 degrees), I
usually do a slow bisque fire to cone 06 (1828 degrees). I assume you
already know that cone 6 and cone 06 are not the same thing, but since
some newer potters are confused by the cone numbering system and do not
know this, I thought I'd just mention it. Bisque firings are usually in
the cone 04 to 06 range, depending on how porous you want your wares to
be when you glaze them. I found a slow bisque firing cycle helps to
fully burn out the organics in the clay body, which helps prevent
pitting in the glaze firing (of course other factors can cause pitting
as well, but this is one of them). I would recommend spraying your
glazes on overfired bisqueware and drying them with a heat gun or blow
torch in between coats in order to get the glaze on thickly enough since
the pieces will not be as porous as usual. I would also recommend
putting kiln washed clay "coasters" under each piece when you glaze fire
them just in case they run -- will save you many hours of grinding your
kiln shelves. Hope that helps!
Dorie in Ann Arbor, Michigan
************************************************************************
**************
From: Linda M
Subject: Over fired bisque
I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque fire. However, I
overfired it I know. I went by the manual however I think I
misunderstood it. It had firing segments for all cones and in the cone 6
one it had for slow bisque, slow glaze, fast bisque and fast glaze. I
went by the slow bisque for my firing. But I did notice that the temp.
at the end of cycle was the same as the glaze firing. So, I have 2
questions. 1) What is the cone that you use to bisque fire for cone 6
clay? 2) Now that the pieces are not porous anymore what will the glaze
do? Will it run all over my shelves or will it stick to the piece? Any
help anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated. I do not have any
literature on this type of thing. Linda Marcoux
Snail Scott on thu 29 jul 04
At 08:32 AM 7/28/04 -0400, you wrote:
>I just got my L&L kiln and fired my first bisque fire...I did notice that
the temp. at the end of cycle was the same as
>the glaze firing. So, I have 2 questions. 1) What is the cone that you use
>to bisque fire for cone 6 clay?
Use the same cones for any bisque firing. Most people
choose cones between ^08 and ^04. Eventually you will
discover the differences between, say, a ^10 clay
bisque-fired to ^06 and a ^04 clay bisque-fired to the
same temperature, or the difference between a clay body
bisqued to ^04 and the same clay body bisqued to ^08,
but for now keep it simple: no matter what the clay
type, go ahead and bisque them all to the same cone.
Even if you used the manufacturer's recommended firing
schedule for bisque, it will still fire up to the cone
you put in the sitter, so make sure it's the right one.
The exact firing schedule is no big deal; the cone is!
You will eventually come to prefer other firing schedules
which will suit your own work best, but for now, it's
OK to stick with the schedule that was recommended.
2) Now that the pieces are not porous
>anymore what will the glaze do? Will it run all over my shelves or will it
>stick to the piece?
It probably won't melt onto the shelves more than it
would have normally. The hard part is going to be
getting it to stick to the pot in the first place,
since absorbency is an important factor in creating
the proper glaze thickness. Heating the pieces will
help (especially if dipping) and so will thickening
the glaze or adding wallpaper paste (if brushing),
but I would suggest starting from scratch and making
all new work.
You don't have to get rid of this work, but set it
aside for now and move on. Later, if you still want to,
you can experiment to see how best to get the glaze to
stick to the vitrified work, but it will involve some
trial and error. Don't wait to 'fix' that stuff before
moving on to make and fire new pieces. You may decide
when you're done that you'd rather make more new stuff
than spend the same effort patching up the old.
It's always good to make new work; that's where progress
comes from. Don't spend too much time on old baggage,
unless it was really complex and special or otherwise
worth a whole lot of extra effort.
-Snail Scott
Ben Shelton on thu 29 jul 04
I found the link to the bone china page I mentioned. Note the section on
glazing.
Ben
http://home.howstuffworks.com/lenox.htm
Really a great pictorial.
syrylyn on thu 29 jul 04
What about just using oxides on this load. Is there texture on the pots?
You could experiment with iron oxides and maybe some others??
Is this a possible option?
Sandy Meadors
syrylyn@iq.quik.com
http://syrylynrainbowdragon.tripod.com/arts.html
"Magic Happens"
Tjo62@AOL.COM on mon 2 aug 04
Sandy,
I overfired a load of stoneware to something like cone 11. I glazed them all
successfully. I allowed my glazes to settle and then took the water off the
top (save it to add back later). Then I mixed the glazes. They were thick, but
not as thick as pudding. Then I dipped half or two-thirds of the dish as
usual. I left each sitting for a day or two and then dipped the other half the same
way. Again leaving them overnight, or longer, until they were dry. Then I
carefully wipped the feet. You have to be careful where you touch because the
glaze can crack off easily. I did choose a glaze that was not runny. The
glaze will run and pool at the foot so even if you wipe a high footring line, it
will be a thicker than usual there, so a glaze that usually stays put is a good
idea. Later I added back the top water to the glazes I used. I did fire up
slowly because they were refires, but they did fine. The color may be off a
little since the glaze was still not as thick as it would have been. Good
luck! Tonya
Bobbruch1@AOL.COM on tue 3 aug 04
Having once made that mistake, my solution would
be to put some gum in the glaze, thicken it a little
(get rid of some of the H2O), then put on a layer of
glaze and bisque a piece. You can then reglaze and
could have a surface that will be more likely to accept
another glaze layer. You may well get some different
effects than if you had done a normal bisque.
Not all glazes can accomodate this process, so you
might want to try some test tiles. It is also a time
consuming and kiln space consuming process, so you
might want to consider the advice that was given by
several clayarters to forget about the pieces, at least
for the moment.
Bob Bruch
Ivor and Olive Lewis on wed 4 aug 04
Dear Friends,
Industrial processing of porcelain tableware involves a first stage of
firing to a vitreous bisque. So glaze is always put onto an
unabsorbent ceramic. To get the glaze to adhere well ware is heated
before it is sprayed with glaze. Spraying and heating assists in the
rapid evaporation of water and ensures a rapid build up to the
required thickness without blebbing or runs.
I suppose such a method could be adopted and adapted by a studio
potter in an emergency.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.
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