Irene Baker on wed 26 feb 97
Hi! I'm a newbie to this Listserv, and would like to begin by asking a
question on behalf of another potter (not yet a member of this august group)
....
She bisque fired her greenware to cone 6 (instead of 06) [electric
kiln]. Do you have any suggestions that will help her apply glaze to these
overfired pots? I've heard about painting Elmer's white glue on previously
glazed pots to make it easier to reglaze. Is there anything like that which
would work for overfired bisque ware?
Thank you,
Irene
Fiona Beaumont on sat 1 mar 97
I know it sounds daft, but I've found that warming the pot helps the
glaze "stick" to an over-bisqued pot. Sitting it on top of an active
kiln for an hour or so does the trick, but admittedly, I don't think
I've ever over-bisqued to quite that extent!
Worth a try?
Regards
Fiona
Windy Nottingham/cold Dunstable, UK
fiona.beaumont@ps.net
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Overfired Bisque?
Author: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU%smtp at ccx400uk
Date: 26/02/97 04:53
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi! I'm a newbie to this Listserv, and would like to begin by asking a
question on behalf of another potter (not yet a member of this august group)
....
She bisque fired her greenware to cone 6 (instead of 06) [electric
kiln]. Do you have any suggestions that will help her apply glaze to these
overfired pots? I've heard about painting Elmer's white glue on previously
glazed pots to make it easier to reglaze. Is there anything like that which
would work for overfired bisque ware?
Thank you,
Irene
Billie & Beverly Cohen on mon 3 mar 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi! I'm a newbie to this Listserv, and would like to begin by asking a
>question on behalf of another potter (not yet a member of this august group)
>...
>
>She bisque fired her greenware to cone 6 (instead of 06) [electric
>kiln]. Do you have any suggestions that will help her apply glaze to these
>overfired pots? I've heard about painting Elmer's white glue on previously
>glazed pots to make it easier to reglaze. Is there anything like that which
>would work for overfired bisque ware?
>
>Thank you,
>
> Irene
>
Hi Irene,
I hope that your friend does not as a rule bisque fire her greenware to
cone 06 and then apply glaze. Cone 06 is the temperature to fire the
glaze. She should be firing her bisque at cone 04. Bisque at cone 06
is not properly matured and could cause some serious problems with the
glaze such as cracking and crazing. As a Duncan Certified Teacher,
we always teach our students that greenware must be bisqued at cone
04-03, then glazed and fired to cone 06 (these temps are for earthenware,
naturally). If you are going to drybrush, firing to cone 06-05 will
leave the ware more porous and better able to absorb the acrylic paint.
When reglazing, it sometimes helps if you heat the ware first. You can
do that in a conventional oven for a few minutes at 250, just long enough
to warm the piece but not to burn yourself. Glaze dries more quickly
and doesn't seem to run as badly and does seem to stick a little better.
Just my couple cents. :-)
Beverly
Estelle Renberger on mon 3 mar 97
Irene...Yikes!1 Ive done this before myself. Have your friend warm the
pots before glazing....I use an old micrwave but warming on top of the
kiln or in the oven would work. Irene Baker wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi! I'm a newbie to this Listserv, and would like to begin by asking a
> question on behalf of another potter (not yet a member of this august group)
> ...
>
> She bisque fired her greenware to cone 6 (instead of 06) [electric
> kiln]. Do you have any suggestions that will help her apply glaze to these
> overfired pots? I've heard about painting Elmer's white glue on previously
> glazed pots to make it easier to reglaze. Is there anything like that which
> would work for overfired bisque ware?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Irene
Donna L. Fenner on tue 4 mar 97
Irene & Beverly:
At the University of North Carolina we bisque fire our greenware at
06. I have never had trouble with glaze application and have not
experienced problems with cracking and crazing. I work in porcelain that I
then reduce at cone 10, usually with Celedon, Copper Red, or a Shino glaze.
As far as Irene's question is concerned. I have seen potters rough up the
surface of an overfired pot and then apply the glaze. Your friend should be
aware, however, that depending upon how extensive she does this, it may
change the texture of her piece. Good Luck!
Donna Fenner
Creative Ceramics
Greensboro, NC
At 09:37 AM 3/3/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Hi! I'm a newbie to this Listserv, and would like to begin by asking a
>>question on behalf of another potter (not yet a member of this august group)
>>...
>>
>>She bisque fired her greenware to cone 6 (instead of 06) [electric
>>kiln]. Do you have any suggestions that will help her apply glaze to these
>>overfired pots? I've heard about painting Elmer's white glue on previously
>>glazed pots to make it easier to reglaze. Is there anything like that which
>>would work for overfired bisque ware?
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>> Irene
>>
>
>Hi Irene,
>I hope that your friend does not as a rule bisque fire her greenware to
>cone 06 and then apply glaze. Cone 06 is the temperature to fire the
>glaze. She should be firing her bisque at cone 04. Bisque at cone 06
>is not properly matured and could cause some serious problems with the
>glaze such as cracking and crazing. As a Duncan Certified Teacher,
>we always teach our students that greenware must be bisqued at cone
>04-03, then glazed and fired to cone 06 (these temps are for earthenware,
>naturally). If you are going to drybrush, firing to cone 06-05 will
>leave the ware more porous and better able to absorb the acrylic paint.
>
>When reglazing, it sometimes helps if you heat the ware first. You can
>do that in a conventional oven for a few minutes at 250, just long enough
>to warm the piece but not to burn yourself. Glaze dries more quickly
>and doesn't seem to run as badly and does seem to stick a little better.
>
>Just my couple cents. :-)
>Beverly
>
Donna
Creative Ceramics
Greensboro, NC
Email: dlfenner@mindspring.com
stefan Jansson on sat 8 mar 97
------------------
=3E----------------------------Original message---------------------------
=3E
=3EShe bisque fired her greenware to cone 6 =3Cyikes=21=3E (instead of 06) =
=5Belectric
=3Ekiln=5D. Do you have any suggestions that will help her apply glaze to =
these
=3Eoverfired pots? I've heard about painting Elmer's white glue on =
previously
=3Eglazed pots to make it easier to reglaze. Is there anything like that =
which
=3Ewould work for overfired bisque ware?
=3E
Hi Irene,
Maybe she could try to put on some thick glaze as someone suggested and
burn it to about 700-800-900=B0C, where the glaze particles starts to melt
together. Now the first layer sticks to the pot and is also =22open=22 and =
can
hold a second layer of glaze and now you can either take it to top
temperature if you think there=B4s enough glaze on, or again take it to
700-900=B0C.
I=B4ve always refired at the same speed as a usual glazefire, but I read a
Clayart message a while ago saying that you shouldn=B4t, so I guess you
better slow it down. (Funny how things you don=B4t know sometimes work
perfectly, but when you learn how it is supposed to be done, it suddenly
doesn=B4t work at all. Not that anything has broken , but after reading that
message I know it will)
If she overfired lots of pots this could be worth a try.
I have also tried to put on a layer of honey (or sugar solved in water),
let it dry and glazed and fired, but it didn=B4t hold glaze enough to make =
it
look good.
Now I sound like I overfire all the time, well I don=B4t, I just like to
refire things sometimes...
Lottie Eriksson in Sweden
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