paper clay

updated sat 26 may 12

Stuart Altmann on wed 27 mar 96

Two questions for those with experience with paper clay. First, because the
paper is primarily tree fiber and so mostly celluloses, hemicelluloses and
lignin, it will burn out to CO2 and H2O if combustion is complete. That's a
lot of water and carbon dioxide. Do they create any problems, or do you go
more slowly below 500 F?

Second, my guess is that even in an electric kiln, combustion of the carbon
will not be complete, at least not immediately upon leaving the clay, but
that a certain amount of soot will be generated. This means that one might
get local reduction with paper clay in an electric kiln on once-fired
pots. Has anybody tried?

Stuart Altmann

Krazy Kat on wed 27 mar 96

I have a question for people making paperclay, also. I am working on a
batch (long story), but I am using newsprint instead of white paper. Has
anyone tried this, and what, if any, effect did the ink or the
'not-so-white' paper have on the color of the fired body?
-Ken.

Dan Taylor on thu 28 mar 96

Hello Stuart,

I've just started experimenting with paperclay this past month and have been
putting test pieces in the regular bisque with no problems other than the
stink! Wow, you sure want to have good ventilation when that paper starts to
burn out. I've wondered about the single-fire reduction possibilities
myself. Would be interesting to try. I'm also concerned about the effect
this may be having on the elements in the bisque. Do you think it may
shorten the life?

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Two questions for those with experience with paper clay. First, because the
paper is primarily tree fiber and so mostly celluloses, hemicelluloses and
lignin, it will burn out to CO2 and H2O if combustion is complete. That's a
lot of water and carbon dioxide. Do they create any problems, or do you go
more slowly below 500 F?

Second, my guess is that even in an electric kiln, combustion of the carbon
will not be complete, at least not immediately upon leaving the clay, but
that a certain amount of soot will be generated. This means that one might
get local reduction with paper clay in an electric kiln on once-fired
pots. Has anybody tried?

Stuart Altmann
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Dan Taylor dataylor@mlc.awinc.com
Taylor Clayworks Ph: (403)527-1002
1340 - 10th Ave. NE Fax: (403)527-1032
Medicine Hat, AB T1A 6G3 "Live your dreams"

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----

Clyde Wynia on thu 28 mar 96

At 11:40 PM 3/27/96 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have a question for people making paperclay, also. I am working on a
>batch (long story), but I am using newsprint instead of white paper. Has
>anyone tried this, and what, if any, effect did the ink or the
>'not-so-white' paper have on the color of the fired body?
>-Ken.


I use cellulose insulation from a local manufacturer. This is made from
ground up newspaper with boric acid aded for fire retardence. I see so
affect on the fired body in contrast to the white bond paper I have also used.

rdowns on thu 28 mar 96

>I have a question for people making paperclay, also. I am working on a
>batch (long story), but I am using newsprint instead of white paper. Has
>anyone tried this, and what, if any, effect did the ink or the
>'not-so-white' paper have on the color of the fired body?
>-Ken.

Ken,

I made some paper clay for a friend years ago and taught him how to make
it while doing it. He has been using my equipment for about 3 years now
making paperclay for himself. We have always used shredded newsprint. It
seems to leave no mark on the finished product. I do all his bisque firing
for him ( he then PAINTS the clay) and all the works come out really white.
We are using an earthenware body bought dry and mixed in a big slip mixer.
The mixer is a 55 gal. plastic barrell with a motor, shaft, and mixer blade
on the end. We put the water in and add paper (don't ask me how much, as he
mixes to taste) then we turn the mixer on and let it blunge the paper. Then
we add the clay to a thick slip consistency and let it mix for an hour or
so. Then the slip is poured off into canvas lined boxes to firm up. That's
about it!

Rose

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ +
+ Dianna Rose Downs +
+ in north central Texas +
+ 214-734-1329 +
+ http://www.why.net/home/gdowns/terra.html +
+ http://www.dfw.net/mckinney/rdowns/rdowns.html +
+ +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Louis Howard Katz on fri 29 mar 96

Since the initial combustion takes place at a low temperture I would
assume that much of the paper is not completely combusted. The assumption
that because kilns get as hot as 2350 degrees that all fuel is completely
combusted and that only water and CO2 are produced is faulty. Kilns are
not always above 700 degrees or 1000 or 1200, all sorts of things must
sneak out of organic material put in kilns. Vent it.
Enjoyed NCECA, although the conference being in two buildings cut down my
schmoozing. It seemed very short as far as conferences go, I suspect this
is the effect of having a child with me and leaving a day early. Some
nice colorant tests out of a student kiln based on Bauers Clear.
I was expecting boring. A couple of tests with combinations of Rutile
and Cobalt Carb. and Rutile and Chrome Oxide are making the students
wild.
The Texas Art Archives open today at the Bell Library on our campus. Jim
Edwards is the co-ordinator.
Louis


Glaze name: BAUER'S CLEAR Cone: 10 Color:
bluish celadon Testing: Untested
Surface texture: shiny
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Ca MidRoad

Recipe: Percent Batch
Cornwall Stone 72.70 3635
Whiting 18.30 915
Gerstley Borate 3.00 150
Zinc Oxide 3.00 150
Bentonite 3.00 150
Totals: 100.00 % 5000 Gm

Also add:
Red Iron Oxide 1.00 50

Comments:
Use thinly on porcelain. Good with oxide washes applied over glaze.
Liner
better without Iron 12/95

Unity Formula for BAUER'S CLEAR:
0.092 K2OJ 0.329 Al2O3 2.691 SiO2J
0.145 Na2O 0.035 B2O3J 8.2:1 Si:Al Ratio
0.642 CaOJ 0.006 Fe2O3
0.012 MgOJ 0.009 P2O5J
0.003 Li2O
0.107 ZnOJ

Percentage Analysis:
61.51 % SiO2
12.76 % Al2O3
0.92 % B2O3
3.30 % K2O
3.42 % Na2O
13.70 % CaO
0.18 % MgO
0.03 % Li2O
3.31 % ZnO
0.36 % Fe2O3
0.49 % P2O5




***************************************************
*Louis Katz lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu *
*Texas A&M University Corpus Christi *
*6300 Ocean Drive, Art Department *
*Corpus Christi, Tx 78412 *
*Phone (512) 994-5987 *
**************************************************

Kathleen Yanagihara on sun 21 jul 96

I would like to find out what artist can make with paper clay. Do you
prefer to fire them at cone 08 or 04 oreven cone 10. How do you add color
to it? Glaze or underglaze or watercolor? Where do you get your paper clay
and how much doew it cost? Thank you for your time. Kathleen
i hurt!!!

Karen Greene on sun 12 jan 97

I am about to start working with paper clay for tiles. I am going to be
using the commercial paper clay from Clayart Center here in Tacoma. Any
begining advice or warnings? I havent used it before, and wanted to
experiment with it. Now that Jim Bailey has taught me to correctly use my
slabroller I thought i could move on and do the work i wanted the slab
roller for. So, Is anyone using or did use any kind of paper clay? Can I
apply slips to it? for color work.. I realize I just need to get out there
and experiment. Is winter not wonderful. I get a bit of time to play and
experiment after the xmas season and before the spring shows start. The
ever rambling Karen Greene kgreene@olywa.net


??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
"Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side, a dark
side, and it holds the universe together...."
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
http://www.halcyon.com/cjlew/kgreene/kg.html

You Name on mon 13 jan 97

I currently work in paper clay, and so far I have had nothing but great
results. At the moment I have made a standard porcelain and added paper to
it, I haven't fired it yet..but I can't wait to see how it looks. The cool
thing about paperclay is that you can do so much with it. Slips, glazes and
anything else work on it, just like regular clay. I have even taken pieces
that were dry and added to them, without them shrinking off or cracking...if
it's done correctly. And even if you are feeling adventurous, and the
paper is well blended, you can throw with it...

Hope you have fun with the miracle clay!
Erin

Judy Brager on mon 13 jan 97

I've been using the paper clay from Clayart Center in Tacoma (Washington
State, USA) for over a year. It's incredible stuff for flatwork like tiles.
The only drawback is that it spoils if kept too long so recently I've been
buying it in dry form and mixing it as needed. (You're lucky to be near the
source--I'm on the other side of the state.) I've used it with colored
slips by mixing ~12-25 parts mason stains with a compatible dry slip
suggested by Clayart and after interminable test tiles, I have a pretty good
series of colors. I don't have any affiliation with Clayart, but I get my
supplies from them because they are so helpful and knowledgeable--especially
about the paper clay. I tried some from another company, and it wasn't
nearly so good. I just thought of one other thing, early in the firing
(~350 degrees) there can be some pretty ugly fumes. Make sure your kiln is
well vented.
Let me know how you like the paper clay.
Judy (hjbrager@owt.com)


>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am about to start working with paper clay for tiles...

Karen Greene kgreene@olywa.net
>

K. Lorensen on mon 13 jan 97

Karen,

I have been enthusiastically using paper clay for about a year.
Most of my recent work is thrown with lots of additions when
leather-hard. Paper clay is great for minimizing the cracks
when adding like that. The clay I got from ClayArt in Tacoma
was lousy for throwing (intended for sculpture, but I had to
try) and I am told they do not make a throwing
body. Too bad. I have been using "Vashon White, Paper Clay"
from Seattle Pottery, but will no longer be using it... Too
much GARBAGE in the clay. In my last two purchases I have
found staples, plastic, unprocessed paper, etc. Really a
bummer. Otherwise love the stuff. I'm sure ClayArt's product
will be great for your tiles. Hope they someday produce a
throwing body for me!

Your neighbor,

Carie Lorensen
Seattle, Wa

Stern HQ on mon 13 jan 97

Why don't you contact Rosanne Gault who is in Seattle, I believe. Isn't
it she who did much of the original work with paper clay? Jeni Stern

On Sun, 12 Jan 1997, Karen Greene wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am about to start working with paper clay for tiles. I am going to be
> using the commercial paper clay from Clayart Center here in Tacoma. Any
> begining advice or warnings? I havent used it before, and wanted to
> experiment with it. Now that Jim Bailey has taught me to correctly use my
> slabroller I thought i could move on and do the work i wanted the slab
> roller for. So, Is anyone using or did use any kind of paper clay? Can I
> apply slips to it? for color work.. I realize I just need to get out there
> and experiment. Is winter not wonderful. I get a bit of time to play and
> experiment after the xmas season and before the spring shows start. The
> ever rambling Karen Greene kgreene@olywa.net
>
>
> ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
> "Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side, a dark
> side, and it holds the universe together...."
> ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
> http://www.halcyon.com/cjlew/kgreene/kg.html
>

Paul Monaghan on tue 14 jan 97

Karen Greene wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am about to start working with paper clay for tiles. I am going to be
> using the commercial paper clay from Clayart Center here in Tacoma. Any
> begining advice or warnings? I havent used it before, and wanted to
> experiment with it. Now that Jim Bailey has taught me to correctly use my
> slabroller I thought i could move on and do the work i wanted the slab
> roller for. So, Is anyone using or did use any kind of paper clay? Can I
> apply slips to it? for color work.. I realize I just need to get out there
> and experiment. Is winter not wonderful. I get a bit of time to play and
> experiment after the xmas season and before the spring shows start. The
> ever rambling Karen Greene kgreene@olywa.net
>
> ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
> "Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side, a dark
> side, and it holds the universe together...."
> ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
> http://www.halcyon.com/cjlew/kgreene/kg.html


Hi Karen,

Yes I've used paperclay. Use it as you would any other clay for
pottery, sculpture, etc. The only caveat is that depending on the ratio
of paper fiber to clay you may not get an extremely smooth surface. But
this can be overridden with glaze, slip, etc.

Good Luck,

Paul
--
Paul J. Monaghan email: paul@web2u.com

WEB2U Productions --- http://www.web2u.com

The "COOLEST" Site on the WEB

"The Computer Secrets are hidden at www.web2u.com/secret"

Robert Speirs, M.D. 766 X4450 on thu 16 jan 97

Hi Erin.

I've enjoyed your posts on paper clay. My studio mate took a class with
Rosette Gault and has used it some in the past. We are trying to use it
mainly for repairing cracks (we are both wheel people), but when we have
tried to use it to repair cracks on bisque, it cracks again in the glaze
firing. It seems to repair greenware just fine.
Do you have any experience with this kind of behavior of paper clay? I
am also using it to attach handles and knobs with pretty good success.
I had just hoped that it would be the cure-all for those pesky cracks!

Thanks again for all you've shared on this.

Laura Speirs
Portland, Oregon

You Name on fri 17 jan 97

Laura,

I don't throw, in fact I haven't in about a year. I use molds most of the
time and I don't run into cracks.

I use paperclay exculsively and by it's self, so that is a rarity.
-----------

I was asked a question yesterday about wedging paper into pre moistened
clay...I have done that, and it works well also. Just wedge it until you
can't wedge anymore!!!

Erin

Howard on fri 18 jul 97

Dear Janet...
per your inquiry... already mixed paper clay in currently available from
Clay Art Center in Tacoma WA, and East Bay Batch in Richmond CA. Tucker
Pottery Supply in Toronto will be making it later this month and Axner
Pottery Supply will be making it in late August. All of these dealers are
making paper clay under a licence from New Century Ceramics which holds the
rights under a pending patent based on the research of Rosette Gault.
Already mixed paper clay is sold under New Century Ceramic's trade name
"P'Clay". Rosette Gault has authored two books (one soon to be released)
which explains how potters can mix their own paper clay.
.... Howard Axner

Jack Ward on mon 29 dec 97

How do you make paper clay
Jack Ward
Jackpottery Ceramic Studio
e-mail jwardjr@awod.com

Dannon Rhudy on tue 30 dec 97

Jack,

I make mine by adding shredded paper to the claymixer while the
clay is being made. It looks messy for a while, but then just
essentially dissolves, and when you pull off a chunch of clay and
hold it up to the light, you'll see a fringe of paper fibers,
finer than hair, along the edge of the clay. If you do this,
don't run it through pug mill or put scraps in with other clay
scraps, because it just spreads and spreads. Hard to clean from
pug mill, too. I believe that any lightweight paper will work,
I use newspaper I've shredded or, more conveniently, shredded
paper of the kind that businesses stack by the bagful for trash
pickup.

Don't, obviously, use anything with plastics in it, nor waste
good paper for it. It all burns out, so inks and so on don't
matter. At least, in my experience.

Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
How do you make paper clay
Jack Ward
Jackpottery Ceramic Studio
e-mail jwardjr@awod.com

BElli22698 on wed 31 dec 97

What qualities does adding paper to the clay give?
Thanks for all the info - love lurking & learning.
Beth - sculptor in L.A.

Stephen Mills on wed 31 dec 97

My workshop is next door to a printers and book binders and they throw
away TONS of paper dust, which is ideal for paperclay making. I have
used it successfully my in experiments with this exciting medium.
Steve
Bath
UK

In message , Jack Ward writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>How do you make paper clay
>Jack Ward
>Jackpottery Ceramic Studio
>e-mail jwardjr@awod.com
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home tel: (44) (0)1225 311699 e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work tel: (44) (0)1225 337046 e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk

Dannon Rhudy on thu 1 jan 98

Generally speaking, it helps prevent cracking; makes it possible
to mend quite easily, and gives the clay a coherence (all those
little fibers lock together) that is very useful for large work,
or delicate work, or very thin work. It can also be used in
porcelain, making it much more forgiving for sculptural work.
Chopped nylon fibers can also be used instead of paper. There
was a lengthy discussion of both of these additives relatively
recently - take a look in the archives, there is more than you
ever wanted to know in there.

Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com


----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
What qualities does adding paper to the clay give?
Thanks for all the info - love lurking & learning.
Beth - sculptor in L.A.

Stephen Mills on thu 1 jan 98

lightens, strengthens in the working phase, and reduces shrinkage, in my
experience so far.
Steve
Bath
UK

In message , BElli22698 writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What qualities does adding paper to the clay give?
>Thanks for all the info - love lurking & learning.
>Beth - sculptor in L.A.
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk

Linda Blossom on sat 3 jan 98

Dear Beth,

I have been using pulp in my clay body and have found that it gives a much
greater dry strength. It also gives more strength to the plastic clay. I
lowered the grog and reformulated my body in order to open it up more and =
keep
the shrinkage down. These are properties that I had relied on the grog to
provide. I am able to add to a piece at any time with paper clay slip or by
wetting a dry place and adding wet clay. The dry clay absorbs much more =
water
(pulp is taking on water) which makes one fired glazing easier. I have made
tiles as thin as 1/8=22 and glazed the unfired tile with four coats of =
glaze. The
tile looks wet on the back and I put it over the woodstove and dry it back =
out.
The tiles dry exceptionally flat with little fuss. I usually put one layer =
on a
bread rack type shelf, over the woodstove, press down gently on the edges =
the
the tiles (flat or relief) dry flat with usually only one out of 30 warping.=
I
made a sink from paper clay and it was lighter and when I refired it to get =
more
glaze, it was fine. I made a tall cylinder (27=22tall) on a form and the =
clay did
not sag nearly as much as the grogged clay. I also like the softer feel of =
the
clay compared to the highly grogged clay. The shrinkage had to be addressed=
as
my clay was 10=25 and went to 14=25 without the grog. I had to raise my =
fireclay
and add a little grog to get it back to 10=25.


Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850
6075397912
www.artscape.com
blossom=40lightlink.com

shelford on sun 4 jan 98

Re the use of paper dust - am I right in thinking that this would make for a
much smoother mix than shredded paper? Maybe easier for throwing and trimming?
- Veronica

>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>My workshop is next door to a printers and book binders and they throw
>away TONS of paper dust, which is ideal for paperclay making. I have
>used it successfully my in experiments with this exciting medium.
>Steve
>Bath
>UK
___________________________________________
Veronica Shelford
e-mail: shelford@island.net
s-mail: P.O. Box 6-15
Thetis Island, BC V0R 2Y0
Tel: (250) 246-1509

Stephen Mills on mon 5 jan 98

In my experience, yes.
Steve
Bath
UK


In message, shelford writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Re the use of paper dust - am I right in thinking that this would make for a
>much smoother mix than shredded paper? Maybe easier for throwing and trimming?
>- Veronica
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>My workshop is next door to a printers and book binders and they throw
>>away TONS of paper dust, which is ideal for paperclay making. I have
>>used it successfully my in experiments with this exciting medium.
>>Steve
>>Bath
>>UK
>___________________________________________
>Veronica Shelford
>e-mail: shelford@island.net
>s-mail: P.O. Box 6-15
> Thetis Island, BC V0R 2Y0
>Tel: (250) 246-1509
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk

Kris Baum on wed 7 jan 98

Linda:

Re: your use of paper clay for tiles and other work - what is the
fired absorption rate of the clay? Did it change after you
reformulated the claybody to account for the paper pulp? Are there
implications re: absorption that would affect paperclay's usefulness
in wet application tiling (showers, kitchens, etc.), outdoor use
(freeze/thaw), and cookware?

Thanks for any info ...


===============================================
Kris Baum, Shubunkin Pottery
mailto:shubunki@erols.com
===============================================

Vince Pitelka on sat 16 may 98

Quite a bit of discussion of paper-clay recently. Which of course inspires
me to remind you all that there is still plenty of room left in Rosette
Gault's paperclay workshop at the Appalachian Center for Crafts later in the
summer. See listings below in a repeat of my post from several weeks ago.
Email me at vpitelka@dekalb.net if you have questions, or call the Craft
Center at 615/597-6801.

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
Enrollment in summer workshops at the Appalachian Center for Crafts has been
a little slow, and I can't help but think that it has something to do with
the recent uncertainty over the future of our facility. As I reported
recently, we have received very generous funding from the State Legislature,
so spirits will be VERY HIGH around here this summer, and we have an
incredible season of workshops lined up. If you or anyone you know is still
considering summer workshops, look over the listings below, and of you are
interested and/or need more information get in touch with me via email, or
call our main office at 615/597-6801.

For those who are unfamiliar with the Craft Center, we have one of the
finest ceramics studio facilities in the country. In addition to the
ceramics workshops listed below we have a full schedule of workshops in
glass, wood, metals, and fibers. We are located on a wilderness preserve
adjacent to Center Hill Lake, 60 miles east of Nashville. For those who fly
in, there is easy shuttle service from the Nashville airport. We have
comfortable condominium-style dormitories on-site, and a full meal plan.
There is great fishing on Center Hill Lake, and a large number of state
parks and recreation areas in the vicinity. Email or phone me with any
questions/comments. Spread the word. Thanks folks -
- Vince

June 8-12
Jeff Oestreich - "Put a Lid On It" - exploration of covered vessels -
thrown, altered, handbuilt. Jeff Oestreich - former apprentice to Bernard
Leach, one of Americas most respected potters. Both presenters this week
will work with all participants.

Gail Kendall - "Put a Lid On It" - exploration of covered vessels - thrown,
altered, handbuilt. Gail Kendall - Assoc. Prof. of Ceramics at U of
Nebraska, noted potter and educator. Both presenters will work with all
participants.

June 15-19
William Daley - "Upscale Handbuilding" - handbuild stoneware to confound
gravity, using templates and armatures. Bill Daley is Distinguished
Professor Emeritus of the University of the Arts, holder of College Arts
Distinguished Teacher of Art Award, has work in museums worldwide.

Vince Pitelka - "Ancient Clay" - Explore construction, decoration, and
firing of ancient and tribal vessels and sculpture - coil-construction,
burnishing, terra sigilatta, bonfiring, etc. VP is Asst. Prof. of Clay and
Head of Clay Program at TTU's App. Ctr. for Crafts.

June 22-26
Joan Bruneau - "Throw, Cut, Paste - Useful Pots in Earthenware" - explore
mechanics, aesthetics, and expressive potential of low-fire tableware. Joan
Bruneau is a full-time potter in Nova Scotia - work has been featured in CM
and "Contact."

Karl Borgeson - "Raku" - Handbuilt and thrown/altered forms for raku, using
variety of post-firing treatments including sandblasting and gold-leafing.
Karl Borgeson is Professor of Ceramics at U of Wisconsin-Whitewater, known
for his thrown/altered forms.in raku, reduction, and salt-firing.

July 6-10
Kirk Mangus - "Making Pots" - exploration of all kinds of pots - find new
ways of forming and decorating pots on the wheel. Discussion of many firing
options. Kirk Mangus teaches at Kent State U, known for dramatic
thrown/altered pots.

Nick Seidner and Diane Rosenmiller - "Woodfiring" - participants will make
and decorate pots, but will also bring bisque pots for at least two
simultaneous wood-firings. Nick Seidner is a full-time potter in Vermont,
Diane Rosenmiller runs the Frog Hollow Craft Center in Middletown Springs,
Vermont.

July 13-17
Rosette Gault - "Paperclay" - information-packed workshop on all aspects of
paperclay, taught by the acknowledged master of the medium. Rosette Gault
has written two books on paperclay, and numerous articles in ceramics
magazines.

Paul Lewing - "Tile: Making, Decorating, Marketing" - Intensive hands-on
tile workshop covering all aspects of tile work, with an emphasis on
decorating, including china paints. Paul Lewing is a full-time clay artist
since 1972 residing in Seattle, and one of the countries leading experts on
ceramic tile. See recent article in CM.

July 20-24
Neil Forrest - "Ceramics for Architecture" - Exploration of traditional and
new techniques for creating 3-D architectural elements - will include
extensive slide shows on ceramic architectural decoration. Neil Forrest is
Assoc. Prof. of Ceramics at Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, and has
written articles in "Ceramics Art and Perception," "Contact" and "ARTS
Magazine."

Stephen Robison and Kathleen Guss - "Thrown and Handbuilt Forms for Coffee
and Tea" - Exploration of forms from diverse world traditions. Soda-fired
stoneware and lo-fired terracotta. Stephen Robison is currently an artist
in residence at the Craft Center, and teaches ceramics at Belmont
University in Nashville. Kathleen Guss is a full-time potter and an artist
in residence at the Craft Center.

GENERAL INFORMATION:
All workshops are five days hands-on - arrival on Sunday, workshop Monday
through Friday inclusive, 9 to 4 with an hour for lunch, and 24-hour studio
access. If you take two successive workshops you may arrange to stay over
the intervening weekend.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166

Lesley Alexander on tue 26 may 98

"Cwolo" asks: "Does anyone know if you can patch regular clay with
paperclay made from the same base clay?" Sure enough! I just went over a
slab piece (B mix) with a slip of B mix and paper clay and then added
whatevers. It's also a good way to fill in dents. You can sand when dry with
an old window screen and who would know how it started? It's come thru
firing fine.

Honora Bird on tue 25 aug 98

I would like to know who you get your paper clay from. I'm not satisified with
my current supplier and would like to try others. I did hear of a supplier in
the state of Washington and would like their address/phone #.

Thanks in advance
Honora Bird
Lansing, Mich
e-mail Birdret@aol.com

Robert C. Rank on wed 26 aug 98

Actually I have made my own wonderful mixture by soaking newspapers til the
stuff disintegrates then adding old clay and whipping it up with a drill and
mixer, then putting it on plaster bats to harden up.

But for a wonderful workable paper clay in 25# bags call IMACO, Industrial
Minerals Co., 7268 Frasinetti Road, Sacramento, CA. 95828. Phone #(916)
383 2811. They have other great clays too.
Lynn in CA

-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU] On Behalf Of
Honora Bird
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:42 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Paper Clay

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I would like to know who you get your paper clay from. I'm not satisified
with
my current supplier and would like to try others. I did hear of a supplier
in
the state of Washington and would like their address/phone #.

Thanks in advance
Honora Bird
Lansing, Mich
e-mail Birdret@aol.com

Mark Issenberg on wed 26 aug 98

I want to make some large platters, handbuilt, and I was curious if any
body is Rakuing paper clay?I am ordering some from Axner.I would like any
feedback about Rakuing Paperclay.
It was 101 on the back porch in the shade today.
The Mangoes are allmost gone but i still have Jackfruit.

Mark in Miami

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

John Lockett on thu 27 aug 98

On Wed 26 Aug, Mark Issenberg wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I want to make some large platters, handbuilt, and I was curious if any
> body is Rakuing paper clay?I am ordering some from Axner.I would like any
> feedback about Rakuing Paperclay.
> It was 101 on the back porch in the shade today.
> The Mangoes are allmost gone but i still have Jackfruit.
>
> Mark in Miami
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>

As luck would have it I've just rakued a fairly large paperclay form
for a friend. I included it along with my usual stuff and had no
problems. It rakued fine.

regards

--
John Lockett - Here in Birmingham UK at http://ninedud.u-net.com/home.htm
Interested in Ceramics?
Visit http://www.ninedud.u-net.com/mpa.htm

Frank Tucker on thu 27 aug 98

At 09:29 AM 8/26/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I want to make some large platters, handbuilt, and I was curious if any
>body is Rakuing paper clay?I am ordering some from Axner.I would like any
>feedback about Rakuing Paperclay.
> It was 101 on the back porch in the shade today.
>The Mangoes are allmost gone but i still have Jackfruit.
>
> Mark in Miami
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Hello Mark,
We make paper clay bodies and many of our customers have used them in
raku.Usually they have used the low fire talc body.It has worked very
well.I know that you will be amazed with what you can ask a well made paper
clay body to do.Let me know if you would like more details.

Frank Tucker

Tucker's Pottery Supplies
1-800-304-6185

Barbara Lewis on sat 29 aug 98

Mark, I have raku- and saggar-fired paper clay with excellent results. I
use the clay slurry from throwing and add other waste pots as the clay part
of the ingredients. It is a good way to recycle clay. I mix with a drill
mixer and pour the slop onto a large plaster slab to make clay sheets. I
currently have a bunch of napkins from an outdoor reception where it started
to rain -- they will be great for the paper part. I have also used
compressed sheets of cotton linter from Pyramid Art. When I want to mix up a
batch I simply tear up the sheets and reconstitute them in water. I have
also used beaten cotton linter from Pyramid Atlantic, a paper making art
studio near me. With both of these methods, you simply add the wet paper
pulp to the clay slurry to no more than 30% (a crude estimate made by eye).
Good luck and let us know how it works. One thing I remember is that the
paper clay seemed to really absorb the carbon so I expect you'll get
beautiful results. Best regards, Barbara

At 09:17 AM 8/27/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>On Wed 26 Aug, Mark Issenberg wrote:
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> I want to make some large platters, handbuilt, and I was curious if any
>> body is Rakuing paper clay?I am ordering some from Axner.I would like any
>> feedback about Rakuing Paperclay.
>> It was 101 on the back porch in the shade today.
>> The Mangoes are allmost gone but i still have Jackfruit.
>>
>> Mark in Miami
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>
>>
>>
>
>As luck would have it I've just rakued a fairly large paperclay form
>for a friend. I included it along with my usual stuff and had no
>problems. It rakued fine.
>
>regards
>
>--
>John Lockett - Here in Birmingham UK at http://ninedud.u-net.com/home.htm
>Interested in Ceramics?
>Visit http://www.ninedud.u-net.com/mpa.htm
>
Wellspring Clayworks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
blewis@crosslink.net

the Gallagher's on sun 30 aug 98

I've often wondered if dryer lint would work. I seem to have a lot of it
around sometimes and throwing it away seems like such a waste.
I have heard of a woman who used it to make collages, but mixing it with clay
would be more my style!

Michelle
in Oregon

Barbara Lewis on mon 31 aug 98

Michelle: I ran into a woman at a craft fair whose friend was a papermaker
who had people from all over the country sending her dryer lint. I've been
tempted to try it for paperclay. But currently I'm on a rampage to throw
things out and can't seem to bring myself to save one more thing --
including dryer lint. I wish someone would try it and let me know. If you
can convince friends to send it, at least postage shouldn't have cost much!
Barbara

At 04:06 PM 8/30/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've often wondered if dryer lint would work. I seem to have a lot of it
>around sometimes and throwing it away seems like such a waste.
>I have heard of a woman who used it to make collages, but mixing it with clay
>would be more my style!
>
>Michelle
>in Oregon
>
Wellspring Clayworks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
blewis@crosslink.net

Brian Crocker on mon 31 aug 98

------------------
Toilet paper 30=25 the rougher =7B lots of fibre =7D the better new that is =
and some
disinfectant to stop the mix going off it works.
Brian Crocker.
4 Erica Street, Tea Tree Gully, S.A. 5091
AUSTRALIA.
=7B e.mail address =7D crocker=40picknowl.com.au

----------
=3E ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3E I've often wondered if dryer lint would work. I seem to have a lot of =
it
=3E around sometimes and throwing it away seems like such a waste.
=3E I have heard of a woman who used it to make collages, but mixing it with=
clay
=3E would be more my style=21
=3E
=3E Michelle
=3E in Oregon

the Gallagher's on tue 1 sep 98

Barbara,

You are right about the postage! = )

Seriously, I might just try it, but I don't like the way fibers get caught in
my tools, so it may not be something I will stay with.

I know what you mean about saving stuff, I am a regular pack-rat.

Michelle

Tom Buck on tue 1 sep 98

Dryer fluff will be fine in Pclay with the warning that it must be well
dispersed (not too easy to do). I'd put it in water first and thrash it
well. Then combine it with clayslip and thrash again. Finally, after it is
well mixed, put the slop on plaster or newspaper to dewater it. Pclay can
be dried completely and stored that way for months. Just takes a few hours
to rewet it again for use.

Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
& snailmail: 373 East 43rd St. Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).

Brian Crocker on thu 3 sep 98

------------------
I have found Paper Clay is mainly suited to hand building with only a little
wheel work for cleanup, kind regards BrianC.
Brian Crocker.
4 Erica Street, Tea Tree Gully, S.A. 5091
AUSTRALIA.
=7B e.mail address =7D crocker=40picknowl.com.au

----------
=3E ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3E Barbara,
=3E
=3E You are right about the postage=21 =3D )
=3E
=3E Seriously, I might just try it, but I don't like the way fibers get =
caught in
=3E my tools, so it may not be something I will stay with.
=3E
=3E I know what you mean about saving stuff, I am a regular pack-rat.
=3E
=3E Michelle

SBrook on mon 15 feb 99

I took a paper clay workshop with Rose Gualt a couple of years ago, and
have been using cone 10 paper clays ever since. My favorite is a Sonora
White paper clay, but I also use a darker pclay that turns out more like
a terra cotta after firing. I have thrown with it with great results,
although it doesn't trim as cleanly as regular clays. It is a very strong
and forgiving clay for throwing.

I usually use paper clay for sculpture and handbuilding. I have run it
throug a slab roller, used it in chunks and repaired with pclay slip. I
got very good detail in sculpture and with plaster molds made of my face.
I have also tried pressing it into slip molds and have found it needs to
be very moist to get good detail.

I've never pugged it as I buy comercial pclay which is becoming easy to
get here in the Bay Area. I have reused my scrap clay, but just wedged
like crazy as I don't have easy access to a pug mill. Also I am not
anywhere near being a professional potter...just crazy about clay!

Hope this helps.

Sally - sitting here in N. Calif, waiting for the rain to stop!

Gail Bakutis on sun 14 mar 99

Who is a commercial supplier of Rosette Gault's paper/clay? I've lost
her book and can't find her on the web. Laguna doesn't carry
paper/clay. I'd appreciate your help. Thank you.

Michelle Lowe on sun 14 mar 99

At 02:53 PM 3/14/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Who is a commercial supplier of Rosette Gault's paper/clay? I've lost
>her book and can't find her on the web. Laguna doesn't carry
>paper/clay. I'd appreciate your help. Thank you.
>

Try http://www.paperclayart.com/




Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
____ |
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>

Nanci Bishof on mon 15 mar 99

Axner carries paper clay. It's called P'Clay. Their number is 800 843 7057 or
407 365 1484. FAX at 407 365 5573.

clayman on mon 15 mar 99

Clay Art Center
2636 Pioneer Way East
Tacoma, WA 98404
1-800-952-8030


They carry Pclay and Pslip. They carry it in sculpture and throwing.
It's great stuff.



Tim Lynch
The Clay Man
1117 Tedford St SE
East Wenatchee, WA 98802-5254
clayman@internet.wsd.wednet.edu
tlynch@usa.net
woodfire@geocities.com
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Museum/1613

"Remember, Clay is Gooood."

Randall Moody on fri 16 jul 99

I am trying to find out how much and what kind of paper to put in a 100
pound batch of clay. I have heard 1 gallon of wet pulp but do not know how
much dry paper goes into a gallon to make the wet pulp.

Linda Blossom on sat 17 jul 99

I use a household bucket (2 1/2 gallons) and fill it with shredded paper and
pack it in. Then I add water to this. this is for 100 lbs.

Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd
Ithaca, NY 14850
607-539-7912
blossom@twcny.rr.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Moody
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, July 16, 1999 11:29 AM
Subject: paper clay


>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am trying to find out how much and what kind of paper to put in a 100
>pound batch of clay. I have heard 1 gallon of wet pulp but do not know how
>much dry paper goes into a gallon to make the wet pulp.
>

Rosemary Attwell on sun 18 jul 99

At 11:28 AM 7/16/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am trying to find out how much and what kind of paper to put in a 100
>pound batch of clay. I have heard 1 gallon of wet pulp but do not know how
>much dry paper goes into a gallon to make the wet pulp.
>

We used a generic brand of loo paper (the one that's useless as loo paper !!)
does'nt matter how much water because your going to strain off the excess
use 2/3 slip (nice creamy consistency) and 1/3 of your pulp (use a stick in
the bucket to estimate quantities)
and BINGO!!! pour onto plaster slabs to firm up

good luck

Ro email rattwell@rocknet.net.au

Nan Smith on sun 1 aug 99

Dear Vicki:

You might want to contact Rosette Gault at rosette@speakeasy.org and look at
the new website she set up - www.paperclayart.com

Nan Smith
University of Florida



Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 16:46:21 EDT
From: Vicki Cederquist
Subject: paperclay

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Could someone please share a good paperclay recipe? I want to give
it a try.

Thank you.

Vicki Cederquist
www.paradisemall.com
Nan Smith, Professor
Area Coordinator Ceramics Program
School of Art and Art History
302 FAC
University of Florida
Gainesville, Florida 32611
E:mail nan@ufl.edu
Office: (352)392-0201, Extension #218
FAX: (352) 392-8453
Website: http://nersp.nerdc.ufl.edu/~nan/

Jean Lutz on sat 18 sep 99

Has anyone ever tried using water color paper to make paper clay?
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
"Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"

Dannon Rhudy on sun 19 sep 99

>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Has anyone ever tried using water color paper to make paper clay?
>Jean Lutz
--------------------------------------

One could use such paper for paperclay, but - it would take a long time to
get the paper to a fiber state. Watercolor paper is treated with various
sizings to PREVENT it becoming pulpy in the presence of water. It is
not necessary to use a "quality" paper for paperclay. Shredded newspaper,
the shredded paper(s) that businesses dispose of (computer printout paper)
and even toilet paper are fine for paperclay, and dissolve/disperse
readily.

Regards,

Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com


>

Janet Kaiser on sun 19 sep 99

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Has anyone ever tried using water color paper to make paper clay?
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
"Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"
--------------------------------------------------------------

I am sure that the folk who also shred bank notes to make paperclay will be
answering in the affirmative.


However, once my Scottish genes calmed down and recovered from the shock, I
got to considering this in a cool and logical way :-)

Depending on the quality of the water colour paper, it may be a problem
reducing it to pulp. The top quality stuff (which is also made from cotton
and other fibers, not just wood remember) is formulated and made to
specifically resist breakdown in a lot of water. There is also quite a lot
of size used on some papers.

But to answer the question, no I have not tried watercolour paper for
paperclay and quite honestly would not even want to. I would give the paper
to a poor student or the local play school/kindergarten. If I was really
poor myself exchange the same weight in toilet rolls to make my paper clay.

Just my two pennies worth. Now where is the whisky?

Janet Kaiser
The Chapel of Art, Criccieth, GB-Wales
Home of The International Potters Path
http://www.the-coa.org.uk
postbox@the-coa.org.uk

Marcia Selsor on sun 19 sep 99

I used the cotton linter paper BUT I have had better results with old
newspaper. Water color paper is very expensive and I doube if it wouls
surpass newspaper which is free.
Marcia in Montana

Jean Lutz wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Has anyone ever tried using water color paper to make paper clay?
> Jean Lutz
> jlutz@azlink.com
> Scottsdale, AZ
> "Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"

--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html

Christine Laginess on sun 19 sep 99

A friend of mine did and it took forever to break it down....the lignen (I
think that's what they are called) are very long and harder to break down.
The paper clay book recommends toilet paper and poorer quality paper. I use
toilet paper and that works great and is easy and cheaper to buy.

Christine

Tena Payne on mon 20 sep 99

Yes, I have used watercolor paper in paperclay. And it works
beautifully, dispite the ugly painting that was on it.

You see, I aspire to paint, and I cannot. I try and I try but I just
can't make anything come out the way I would like it to. So I shred the
ugly sob's and put their as- in clay. Works like a dream. And there's
no evidence for posterity that I paint so poorly.

I hear Mel paints quite well, tho.

Tena
in Birmingham
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

Jean Lutz on wed 22 sep 99

To all who answered me about the water color paper
Thanks for the info on the watercolor paper. The only reason I would want
to use it is that my husband is beginning water color and has quite a bit
of paper that he has done exercises on that he is just throwing away. I
borke my heart to see that expensive paper in the trash. Soooo I just
wondered if it could be used. I assumed that the color would just burn out.

One could use such paper for paperclay, but - it would take a long time to
get the paper to a fiber state. Watercolor paper is treated with various
sizings to PREVENT it becoming pulpy in the presence of water. It is
not necessary to use a "quality" paper for paperclay. Shredded newspaper,
the shredded paper(s) that businesses dispose of (computer printout paper)
and even toilet paper are fine for paperclay, and dissolve/disperse
readily.
Regards,
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com>

Has anyone ever tried using water color paper to make paper clay?
>Jean Lutz
--------------------------------------
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
Scottsdale, AZ
"Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"

millie carpenter on thu 23 sep 99

Jean

have him save the paper, if it is decent paper, it can be used agin. either
in a collage or by painting over the water color with acrylics or, reprocessed
into hand made paper.

millie in Md. ever frugal after a day of turning the apples into apple butter
and dried apples

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> To all who answered me about the water color paper
> Thanks for the info on the watercolor paper. The only reason I would want
> to use it is that my husband is beginning water color and has quite a bit
> of paper that he has done exercises on that he is just throwing away. I
> borke my heart to see that expensive paper in the trash. Soooo I just
> wondered if it could be used. I assumed that the color would just burn out.
>
> One could use such paper for paperclay, but - it would take a long time to
> get the paper to a fiber state. Watercolor paper is treated with various
> sizings to PREVENT it becoming pulpy in the presence of water. It is
> not necessary to use a "quality" paper for paperclay. Shredded newspaper,
> the shredded paper(s) that businesses dispose of (computer printout paper)
> and even toilet paper are fine for paperclay, and dissolve/disperse
> readily.
> Regards,
> Dannon Rhudy
> potter@koyote.com>
>
> Has anyone ever tried using water color paper to make paper clay?
> >Jean Lutz
> --------------------------------------
> Jean Lutz
> jlutz@azlink.com
> Scottsdale, AZ
> "Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"

Gayle Bair on sat 25 sep 99

Forgive me if this question has been asked before.
Has anyone tried substituting dryer lint instead
of paper in paper clay? If so, what were the results.
Gayle

Richard Jeffery on sun 26 sep 99

I spent about 6 months last year collecting the matted fibres from the
tumble dryer - I think I had some crazed idea to make paper screens. In the
end, I got fed up with it and added it to a batch of paper clay that was
brewing.

I think it all depends on how you will use the clay - apart from needing a
lot of lint to make it worth the trouble. I use paper clay to make clocks,
boxes, etc - slab stuff. I found the long fibres "pull" when you cut shapes
out of the slab, ruining crisp edges. Some of these longer fibres would
have looked a bit too natural for use in paper anyway....

Regards

Richard Jeffery
Bournemouth UK - where the remnants of one large storm has struggled across
the pond

-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of Gayle Bair
Sent: 25 September 1999 20:10
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Paper Clay


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Forgive me if this question has been asked before.
Has anyone tried substituting dryer lint instead
of paper in paper clay? If so, what were the results.
Gayle

Roger Korn on mon 27 sep 99

It works like you might expect: the fiber is tougher than wood, so it
hangs together better. Harder to mix - best to mix up the lint in water,
then add dry clay. Even harder to throw than paper clay, but really good
for slab and scultural work

We use lint for handmade paper for lamp shades. Really tough stuff!

Roger
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Gail Bair wrote:

Forgive me if this question has been asked before.
Has anyone tried substituting dryer lint instead
of paper in paper clay? If so, what were the results.
Gayle

Erin Sherman on sat 22 jan 00

I worked a little with paper clay a couple years ago.
What I used for the paper component was cotton rag
paper pulp. I bought it from a paper company in
Minnesota or Wisconsin. You can either buy sheets of
paper, and then make the pulp yourself (adding small
pieces to warm water in a blender) or buy it pre-made
in 5-gallon buckets. I don't know where you live, but
perhaps you could find a company that makes paper.
The clay resulting from this was a little lumpy and I
wouldn't recommend it for throwing, but it had a very
interesting texture.
Good luck!
Erin Sherman
in Bayonne, NJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

Richard Jeffery on tue 25 jan 00

Alisa

I find it helps to turn the slab every couple of days, and maybe to raise
the plaster bats off the work top on some small strips of wood to let the
air get underneath - the more surfaces that can evaporate water from the
bat, then I guess the more water can be pulled from the clay. I find a
couple of old credit cards are good for turning the slab - it's just the
smell on from what gets trapped in my finger nails that I have problems with
!

Richard

Bournemouth UK

-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of Alisa and Claus Clausen
Sent: 24 January 2000 19:42
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Sv: Paper Clay


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
The paper fiber I have is just that and very airy and dusty. It soaked up
enormous amounts of
water and easily was slaked into the clay slop. However, drying is now to
be
seen! After a week on the "slab", it is almost as wet.. Firing up the kiln
now
so hoping there may be some extra heat in the workshop. The consistency now
looks very promising (as far as clay and paper intergrated).

Alisa in Denmark

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Erin Sherman
Til: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Dato: 22. januar 2000 22:32
Emne: Paper Clay


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I worked a little with paper clay a couple years ago.
What I used for the paper component was cotton rag
paper pulp. I bought it from a paper company in
Minnesota or Wisconsin. You can either buy sheets of
paper, and then make the pulp yourself (adding small
pieces to warm water in a blender) or buy it pre-made
in 5-gallon buckets. I don't know where you live, but
perhaps you could find a company that makes paper.
The clay resulting from this was a little lumpy and I
wouldn't recommend it for throwing, but it had a very
interesting texture.
Good luck!
Erin Sherman
in Bayonne, NJ
_________________________=
5F________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) on mon 31 jan 00

Alisa---
You're comment about the delayed drying is very interesting. I experienced the
same thing when I mixed up my own p-clay. I used toilet paper. I think I may
have used too much. The stuff is not amenable to wedging. However, it has
stayed damp and usable over several months, has withstood freezing, and I'm able
to join two pieces of it with no slip or vinegar, just pressure. It's amazing
stuff! I had to force dry it after I made some stuff with it. I put it in the
oven overnight. That usually works. Or I put it next to the radiator.

I'm waiting to see what happens when it's bisqued. Bisque firing will be done
this week.
Sandy

-----Original Message-----
From: Alisa and Claus Clausen [SMTP:aliskin@mail.dk]
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2000 2:42 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Sv: Paper Clay

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
The paper fiber I have is just that and very airy and dusty. It soaked up
enormous amounts of
water and easily was slaked into the clay slop. However, drying is now to be
seen! After a week on the "slab", it is almost as wet.. Firing up the kiln now
so hoping there may be some extra heat in the workshop. The consistency now
looks very promising (as far as clay and paper intergrated).

Alisa in Denmark

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Erin Sherman
Til: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Dato: 22. januar 2000 22:32
Emne: Paper Clay


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I worked a little with paper clay a couple years ago.
What I used for the paper component was cotton rag
paper pulp. I bought it from a paper company in
Minnesota or Wisconsin. You can either buy sheets of
paper, and then make the pulp yourself (adding small
pieces to warm water in a blender) or buy it pre-made
in 5-gallon buckets. I don't know where you live, but
perhaps you could find a company that makes paper.
The clay resulting from this was a little lumpy and I
wouldn't recommend it for throwing, but it had a very
interesting texture.
Good luck!
Erin Sherman
in Bayonne, NJ
_________________________=5F________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

Jim Brooks on mon 7 feb 00

Does anyone know of a good source for "ready-to-use" paper clay.. Thanks..Jim

Susan Schultz on mon 7 feb 00

Jim,

Ready to use paperclay is available in several places, and you didn't
say where you live, so you can pick from Tucker's (Canada) distributed
also by Bailey in NY and Ceramic Supply of NY/NJ in NJ. Axner's also
has it. I have used both. Great clays. You can also get it in Chicago,
Washington, and California, and those places are on Rosette Gault's website;
http://www.paperclayart.com/index.html.

Susan Schultz
Stonington, Ct.

Vicki Ferris on tue 8 feb 00

Jim,

You can purchase paper clay at IMCO, Industrial Minerals Co. in Sacremento,
CA. Their phone # is 916-383-2811. Ask for Eric.

Vicki in Cool, CA

Ivan Berkowitz on mon 5 jun 00

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I love working with paper clay and bought some to fire at cone 10.
I tried to make a few pieces with on the wheel. They were easy to do but
don't seem to want dry ???

Thanks

Ivan Berkowitz

e-mail - ivan@mb.sympatico.ca
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Alisa and Claus Clausen on wed 7 jun 00

In my experience with throwing paperclay, they do not dry as fast as non =
paper clay, because they have paper pulp in them, wet, soggy pulp! Then =
when you trim them, that same pulp builds fast up in your wire loop =
tools. Alas, I only use paper clay for now as slip to add on appendages =
if they need moisture.
Best regards,
Alisa in Denmark

africaunusual@MWEB.CO.ZA on thu 8 jun 00

My experience too with throwing the stuff but great for slab work,
nice thin delicate slabwork when I am not too darn lazy to do
slabwork.
Toni
On 7 Jun 2000, at 11:16, Alisa and Claus Clausen wrote:

> In my experience with throwing paperclay, they do not dry as fast as non paper clay, because they have paper pulp in them, wet, soggy pulp! Then when you trim them, that same pulp builds fast up in your wire loop tools. Alas, I only use paper clay for now as slip to add on appendages if they
need moisture.
> Best regards,
> Alisa in Denmark
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Russel Fouts on tue 30 jan 01

Matthew,

>> I agree most of your comment. However, I have to disagree about two
points: 1. You wrote: Less paper=more shrinkage, More paper=less shrinkage.
I think it is the other way round:More paper=bigger shrinkage. 2. You
wrote:Less paper, sticks together better. I think it depends on the stage of
dryness of clay. If a piece is bone dry and you want to attach a wet piece,
more paper sticks better. <<

I should have prefaced it with "in my experience" and ended with "your
milage may vary".

I offen use the paper clay as slop, poured or brushed into press molds. If
the shrinkage were higher, I think I'd have cracking and these pieces would
never survive. I think the paper is acting like grog to limit the ability of
the clay particles to slide past each other as the ware dries.

In any case, here are some other absolutes;

- Applying terra-sig to bisque, never works
- You can't smoke fire in electric kilns
- You must always thoroughly wedge your clay before using it.
- Etc.

If anyone thinks these are true, have a look at my website

;-)

Russel

Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
http://www.Japan-Net.ne.jp/~iwcat

Jim Mahoney on sat 17 feb 01

I'm new here.
What is PAPER CLAY?
JIM MAHONEY

Dale Ball on fri 25 jan 02

After lurking for weeks, enjoying all the helpful information and repartee,
i have a question...has anyone out there had any experience with paper
clay....a clay body with paper pulp added to it ? i've been interested in
using it for sculpture, not throwing, and so far , after reading some of
Rosette Gault's book on the subject , have been quite impressed. next week
we'll make our first batch. any thoughts on the subject ?
thanks in advance, Dale Ball

Ababi on fri 25 jan 02

Rossete Gault's book. Is so good that I think one should not even try
to paperclay without reading it all the way.
I got once the explanation of how to to it, and when I failed decided
never to repeat it. Yet now after reading the book I think it will save
me from some problems.
An example: these kids come for an hour. they must finish their works.
If not I must give them more time. In paperclay they can leave it and
go on the next time they come work wet on dry..
I intend to make my work heavy, it might help.
I give you here two links Rossete Gault's and Graham Hay's excellent
links! You can write both of them and ask for advise and hopefully in a
few months you might ask me too
Ababi


http://www.grahamhay.com.au/

http://www.paperclayart.com/
---------- Original Message ----------

> After lurking for weeks, enjoying all the helpful information and
>repartee,
>i have a question...has anyone out there had any experience with paper
>clay....a clay body with paper pulp added to it ? i've been
>interested in
>using it for sculpture, not throwing, and so far , after reading some of
>Rosette Gault's book on the subject , have been quite impressed.
>next week
>we'll make our first batch. any thoughts on the subject ?
> thanks in advance, Dale Ball

>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

Snail Scott on fri 25 jan 02

At 04:12 AM 1/25/02 EST, Dale wrote:
>...has anyone out there had any experience with paper
>clay...sculpture...


First, a quick suggestion: when asking general questions
like this, try checking the archives first. (The web
address is at the bottom of every Clayart post.) There
is a ton of information there, though you may have to
try several different searches to find specific items.
Some subjects come up over and over, and if they've been
discussed recently, you may not get many responses to a
new question on that topic.

As for paperclay, I've used it a bit for sculpture. I've
discovered that:

1) Don't use more than about 40% paper; it gets weird in
several ways. (Though it does have its uses that way.)

2) Resist the temptation to work thin. Because the green
strength of paperclay is so great, you may be inclined
to make less-thick work. Don't do it! When the paper
burns out, there will actually be less clay than in a
normal clay body of the same thickness, and it will be
more fragile.

3) Be aware that wood pulp forms wood ash when it burns
out. Wood ash is a flux. High percentages of fiber can
actually reduce the firing temperature of your clay.

4) It works fine for slab-building and pinched forms. It
works not too well for coiling. It works very well for
press-molding and assembly. It works poorly for incised
decoration and carving.

5) Make your joints very strong, with proper score-and-
slip techniques; the fibers must interlock across the
joint for it to be strong, since there is less clay
contacting other clay. This becomes more important with
higher percentages of paper.

6) It will dry very slowly, since the paper will hold
and retain moisture more than plain clay will. And, with
high percentages of paper, shrinkage can increase quite
a bit.

I found that it didn't give me much advantage with the
type of work I do, so I only use it occasionally now.
It can be amazingly useful for some purposes, though.

-Snail

Stephani Stephenson on fri 25 jan 02

DALE WROTE:
i have a question...has anyone out there had any experience with paper
clay....a clay body with paper pulp added to it ? i've been
interested in
using it for sculpture, not throwing, and so far , after reading some
of
Rosette Gault's book on the subject , have been quite impressed.
next week
we'll make our first batch. any thoughts on the subject ?


Hi Dale
This is very, very general, but my advice would be go ahead and make
up a batch of paper clay according to Rosette Gault's guidelines, then
experiment. I use slip from your my own clay body and TP. Don't get too
caught up in whether the batch it is exactly right, it will be OK. Just
make a note of how you do it.

I think the most important thing to do is just see how it handles. Use
your own techniques, try new ones, observe and make notes. Regardless
what others do or claim about paper clay, your own observations will
teach you a lot quite quickly.

Paperclay has quite a different tactile quality about it. In some
processes it will seem quite different than regular clay, other
processes quite similar. I think others have said, let go of
preconceptions of how things should work with regular clay, when trying
paperclay.

Processes like rolling slabs and coils are similar, Processes like
carving and joining are different. The issue of thickness is much
broader, the drying time is much longer. The stuff is indestructible
in the greenware phase, is quite wonderful for pressing or pouring into
molds. It will clog your carving tools (i have yet to try carving
sintered paperclay as Gault suggest), and once dry it is like cement.
There is an oatmeal quality to the slip that takes some getting use to,
and processes such as ribbing, smoothing, modeling ,carving take on
different qualities and are done at different stages. I have never
tried throwing with it. The degree of variation from regular clay
depends too on the amount of paper in the batch.
Paper clay and paper clay slip are truly excellent patching and
crack/gap filling /repairing substances.

Best to you!
Stephani Stephenson
Carlsbad Ca
steph@alchemiestudio.com

Carole Rishel on fri 25 jan 02

I'm still getting my studio ready (what a job!). But when it's in some s=
hape that I can work in, I plan on trying paper clay. It does sound intr=
iguing. I would be interested in how you like working with it and any in=
sights you may have discovered.

Carole Rishel
kallahcee@msn.com
Smithville, TX =20
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ball
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 11:47 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: paper clay
=20
After lurking for weeks, enjoying all the helpful information and reparte=
e,
i have a question...has anyone out there had any experience with paper
clay....a clay body with paper pulp added to it ? i've been interested=
in
using it for sculpture, not throwing, and so far , after reading some of
Rosette Gault's book on the subject , have been quite impressed. next =
week
we'll make our first batch. any thoughts on the subject ?
thanks in advance, Dale Ball

_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.

ASHPOTS@AOL.COM on fri 25 jan 02

Its funny i started making paper clay again. While Dave was here he helped
rip up news paper, im sure he thinks im crazy, any way i let my paper sit for
a couple of days and i added it to my slip. I also added some grog. The slip
was from Wonder White a cone 10 clay. I have a mixer that goes on my big
drill 12"
i have some small slab bowls in the bisque. I want to see how it will fire in
my gas kiln with my ash glaze on it.
I am working for a show that is in a month in Chattanooga at AVA March 8

The show is : Ash Glazes from Lookout Mountain

catchy huh?????

Capt Mark

PS i also added some Dr Bonners soap to the paper pulp to help the h2o
in the fire dept we used lite water , i also use Dr Bonners when i water my
plants

Celia Littlecreek on fri 25 jan 02

Snail, Can you extrude paper clay? What is the highest temperature it can
be fired to. The same temp as your clay body?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: paper clay


> At 04:12 AM 1/25/02 EST, Dale wrote:
> >...has anyone out there had any experience with paper
> >clay...sculpture...
>
>
> First, a quick suggestion: when asking general questions
> like this, try checking the archives first. (The web
> address is at the bottom of every Clayart post.) There
> is a ton of information there, though you may have to
> try several different searches to find specific items.
> Some subjects come up over and over, and if they've been
> discussed recently, you may not get many responses to a
> new question on that topic.
>
> As for paperclay, I've used it a bit for sculpture. I've
> discovered that:
>
> 1) Don't use more than about 40% paper; it gets weird in
> several ways. (Though it does have its uses that way.)
>
> 2) Resist the temptation to work thin. Because the green
> strength of paperclay is so great, you may be inclined
> to make less-thick work. Don't do it! When the paper
> burns out, there will actually be less clay than in a
> normal clay body of the same thickness, and it will be
> more fragile.
>
> 3) Be aware that wood pulp forms wood ash when it burns
> out. Wood ash is a flux. High percentages of fiber can
> actually reduce the firing temperature of your clay.
>
> 4) It works fine for slab-building and pinched forms. It
> works not too well for coiling. It works very well for
> press-molding and assembly. It works poorly for incised
> decoration and carving.
>
> 5) Make your joints very strong, with proper score-and-
> slip techniques; the fibers must interlock across the
> joint for it to be strong, since there is less clay
> contacting other clay. This becomes more important with
> higher percentages of paper.
>
> 6) It will dry very slowly, since the paper will hold
> and retain moisture more than plain clay will. And, with
> high percentages of paper, shrinkage can increase quite
> a bit.
>
> I found that it didn't give me much advantage with the
> type of work I do, so I only use it occasionally now.
> It can be amazingly useful for some purposes, though.
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Snail Scott on sat 26 jan 02

At 10:27 PM 1/25/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Snail, Can you extrude paper clay? What is the highest temperature it can
>be fired to. The same temp as your clay body?


Never tried extruding it, but I imagine it would work.
Give it a go, and tell us all how it went!

In my experience, clay with modest amounts of paper can
be fired close to the usual temperature, but the more
paper you add, the lower the vitrification will be. I will
point out that all of my experience has been with homemade
paperclay, using newspaper for the fiber. I atttribute the
drop in firing temperature to the fluxing action of the
wood ash formed by burning out the paper, but that's just
my speculation, and it's possible that other organic
fibers (such as cotton linters) will flux differently. I
don't know. (Anyone else?)

One batch of very fibrous clay (not sure of the exact
percentage since I added it wet, but maybe 50%) based on
my usual ^5 clay body showed very severe warping (though
no bloating) by ^1.

Several people have observed that they had no problems
coil-building with paperclay. Since most of my attempts
were with coarse fiber in percentages above 20%, I suspect
that both these factors may account for the discrepancy in
experience. The quantity of fiber makes a HUGE difference
in the working properties of the material, as does the
type of fiber, though to a lesser degree.

Someone else mentioned working thin. It is possible to
work VERY thin with paperclay; I don't discourage it,
per se, but merely warn about the fragility of the result,
which is even more delicate than the same form made of
regular clay.

(I lost a major new piece to the tender mercies of UPS
recently, so I'm even more leery of delicate work than I
am normally. Do your own work, though. Whatever works for
you is the right way to do it.)

-Snail

Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman on sat 26 jan 02

Hi all,

I make my own paper clay in my Peter Pugger VPM 30 using commercial clay
(mostly Standard Ceramics #181) and paper linters purchased from Mile Hi
Ceramics. I do not measure the quantity of paper, just dump a few handsfull
in a bucket of warm water, drain it, wring it out in my hands and put it
into the hopper with the commercial clay. The paper linters end up being
very small, tiny bits of paper in the clay when well mixed.

When I was first using my Peter Pugger and I made the paperclay was too soft
with too much water, I had trouble pugging it. The people at the
manufacturers suggested that paper clay tends to be sticky, and therefore
harder to extrude out of the pugger. In reality, I later realized that the
paper clay that would not come out was really much too soft to use, anyway.
I let it dry a bit and later it pugged out just fine. (However, I was new to
the Peter Pugger and a bit put off by the lower vacuum pressure on the Peter
Pugger due to my altitude of 8800 feet. It took me a while to realize that
despite the lower air pressure than at sea level, the clay does not have air
bubbles and does pug just fine unless it's too wet.)

Since then I've made many batches of paperclay, all using commercial clay
(mostly Standard's #181) and the commercial paper linters. That was one of
the reasons I bought the Peter Pugger in the first place. The paperclay
works just fine (as long as the clay isn't too wet).

Actually I've never been sure how people determine what percent paper is in
their clay-- is it measured by volume? or by weight when the paper is wet?
by weight when the paper is dry and the clay ingredients are dry?

I use this clay as I would use any clay. I'm sure the paper content of my
batches varies especially since I usually end up mixing recycled clay with
clay out of the bag. However, I use the clay on the wheel, on the slab
roller and in my Bailey extruder. My paperclay works just fine in the Bailey
extruder. I also carve the clay regardless of how the shape is formed. My
favorite carving tool, the larger triangle in the Kemper mini-ribbon set
clogs quickly, so the paper is a nuisance. It's definitely harder to carve
finely with paper in the clay, even with small paper fibers.

Once the pots have been bisqued, you're left with just regular clay and your
forms are lighter than they would have been without the paper in the clay. I
don't notice a difference in the surface of my pieces when made with
paperclay or clay without paper. I do notice a difference in the finished
weight.

Remember that I've only used commercial paper linters in my paperclay, so
your experience may vary with newspaper or other paper that isn't broken
down into mush.

Bonnie


----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: paper clay


> At 10:27 PM 1/25/02 -0600, you wrote:
> >Snail, Can you extrude paper clay? What is the highest temperature it
can
> >be fired to. The same temp as your clay body?
>
>
> Never tried extruding it, but I imagine it would work.
> Give it a go, and tell us all how it went!
>
> In my experience, clay with modest amounts of paper can
> be fired close to the usual temperature, but the more
> paper you add, the lower the vitrification will be. I will
> point out that all of my experience has been with homemade
> paperclay, using newspaper for the fiber. I atttribute the
> drop in firing temperature to the fluxing action of the
> wood ash formed by burning out the paper, but that's just
> my speculation, and it's possible that other organic
> fibers (such as cotton linters) will flux differently. I
> don't know. (Anyone else?)
>
> One batch of very fibrous clay (not sure of the exact
> percentage since I added it wet, but maybe 50%) based on
> my usual ^5 clay body showed very severe warping (though
> no bloating) by ^1.
>
> Several people have observed that they had no problems
> coil-building with paperclay. Since most of my attempts
> were with coarse fiber in percentages above 20%, I suspect
> that both these factors may account for the discrepancy in
> experience. The quantity of fiber makes a HUGE difference
> in the working properties of the material, as does the
> type of fiber, though to a lesser degree.
>
> Someone else mentioned working thin. It is possible to
> work VERY thin with paperclay; I don't discourage it,
> per se, but merely warn about the fragility of the result,
> which is even more delicate than the same form made of
> regular clay.
>
> (I lost a major new piece to the tender mercies of UPS
> recently, so I'm even more leery of delicate work than I
> am normally. Do your own work, though. Whatever works for
> you is the right way to do it.)
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>

Pam Pasko on sat 26 jan 02

I use paperclay in my extruder and it works great!
Pam Pasko

Gavin Stairs on fri 5 jul 02

This is a gum or mucilage the purpose of which is to help adhere the fibres
together in the paper. It has no purpose in a paper clay.

Gavin

At 06:32 PM 05/07/2002, you wrote:
>There is a product used by papermarkers...a
>liquid...added to the paper when put into the
>blender...a small amt...Unfortunately, the label has
>come off my bottle & have forgotten the name of
>it...it's for cohesiveness.. Will ck. my books on
>paper-making....eager beavers may wish to go to a site
>& pick up the name instantly, I'm sure..:)...
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

Miriam Steele on fri 5 jul 02

There is a product used by papermarkers...a
liquid...added to the paper when put into the
blender...a small amt...Unfortunately, the label has
come off my bottle & have forgotten the name of
it...it's for cohesiveness.. Will ck. my books on
paper-making....eager beavers may wish to go to a site
& pick up the name instantly, I'm sure..:)...

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com

Susan Fox-Hirschmann on sat 6 jul 02

Are you talking about retention agent or sizing!?  Sizing prevents shinking in handmade paper while retention agent helps the pulp hold the color of pigments and other dyes.

Susan fox hirschmann

A

>From: Miriam Steele

>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List

>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG

>Subject: Paper Clay

>Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 15:32:24 -0700

>

>There is a product used by papermarkers...a

>liquid...added to the paper when put into the

>blender...a small amt...Unfortunately, the label has

>come off my bottle & have forgotten the name of

>it...it's for cohesiveness.. Will ck. my books on

>paper-making....eager beavers may wish to go to a site

>& pick up the name instantly, I'm sure..:)...

>

>__________________________________________________

>Do You Yahoo!?

>Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free

>http://sbc.yahoo.com

>

>______________________________________________________________________________

>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription

>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

---

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Calista Bookout on sun 7 jul 02

I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
been mentioned so far.

happy potting to all,
C.C. Bookout

Earl Brunner on sun 7 jul 02

Is this cellulose fiber "fire-retardant" free? Most cellulose
insulation has chemical additives to make it flame retardant. These
chemicals if I remember right were borax or something similar; this
could have a serious impact on your firing temperature. Without the
fire retardant, I would concur on it being a good source. (used to make
the stuff)

Earl Brunner
mailto:bruec@anv.net
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec


-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
Behalf Of Calista Bookout
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 9:37 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: paper clay

I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
been mentioned so far.

happy potting to all,
C.C. Bookout

Ababi on mon 8 jul 02

I read an article, I could not find it again about someone who added borax and boric
acid. I think like you that this is a bad idea. The paperclay as it is has more flux
because of the paper's ash, adding B2O3 must limit the use , perhaps to low fire.
You must learn how to manipulate, I mean, how much to keep as slip, humid clay or
dried claybody. There is a temporary solution, to add some bleaching liquid to length
the "life' of the un smelly slip or to keep in the refrigerator the slip or humid claybody.
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------

>Is this cellulose fiber "fire-retardant" free? Most cellulose
>insulation has chemical additives to make it flame retardant. These
>chemicals if I remember right were borax or something similar; this
>could have a serious impact on your firing temperature. Without the
>fire retardant, I would concur on it being a good source. (used to make
>the stuff)

>Earl Brunner
>mailto:bruec@anv.net
>http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
>Behalf Of Calista Bookout
>Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 9:37 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: paper clay

>I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
>for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
>is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
>attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
>improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
>compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
>a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
>would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
>out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
>as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
>chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
>described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
>drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
>to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
>do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
>my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
>for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
>been mentioned so far.

>happy potting to all,
>C.C. Bookout

>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Philip & Ingrid Vanneste-Vuylsteke on mon 8 jul 02

Hello,

This is interesting.
I do use "Isofloc" (www.isofloc.de) to make paperclay. This is a kind of
pre-shredded paper with Borax and Boric Acid
in it, normally used for isolation.
Advantage is that it does not smell at all, even after months.

Bisque firing (up to 950 °C) is no problem, but as soon as I fire higher
(e.g. up to 1050 °C), I get a lot of deformation in the boxes I make. Could
that be due to the
Borax and Boric Acid ?
(no problem for Raku Firing, though)

Looking forward to hear the lists opinion on this.

Philip

=========================================
Philip & Ingrid Vanneste-Vuylsteke
Belgium
=========================================


-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
[mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]Namens Ababi
Verzonden: maandag 8 juli 2002 7:07
Aan: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Onderwerp: Re: paper clay


I read an article, I could not find it again about someone who added borax
and boric
acid. I think like you that this is a bad idea. The paperclay as it is has
more flux
because of the paper's ash, adding B2O3 must limit the use , perhaps to low
fire.
You must learn how to manipulate, I mean, how much to keep as slip, humid
clay or
dried claybody. There is a temporary solution, to add some bleaching liquid
to length
the "life' of the un smelly slip or to keep in the refrigerator the slip or
humid claybody.
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------

>Is this cellulose fiber "fire-retardant" free? Most cellulose
>insulation has chemical additives to make it flame retardant. These
>chemicals if I remember right were borax or something similar; this
>could have a serious impact on your firing temperature. Without the
>fire retardant, I would concur on it being a good source. (used to make
>the stuff)

>Earl Brunner
>mailto:bruec@anv.net
>http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
>Behalf Of Calista Bookout
>Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 9:37 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: paper clay

>I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
>for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
>is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
>attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
>improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
>compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
>a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
>would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
>out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
>as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
>chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
>described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
>drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
>to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
>do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
>my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
>for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
>been mentioned so far.

>happy potting to all,
>C.C. Bookout

>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Calista Bookout on mon 8 jul 02

Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 20:34:18 -0300
From: John Vandermeulen
Subject: Re: cellulose fibers

Hello Calista Bookout,
I assume that the clay-fiber mixture is fired - presumably the fibre burns out.
What is the fired clay like? Porous?
John V

-----------------------------
Dear John,
Yes the clay is fired to the usual cone of the clay body to which the
cellulose fiber has been added. It was not true for me ,but I have
heard that the paper could possibly lower the firing temp of the
clay. I use b-mix from Laguna and fire at least to cone ten and some
parts may even reach cone eleven. I have not noticed any problem with
this temperature. The fiber does burn out. If it is mixed in well
there is not much noticeable difference between the paper clay and
the plain fired b-mix clay. There may be a slight unevenness of
surface texture to the fired paper clay, but with glaze over it the
difference is hard to tell. I must give credit where credit is due.
I learned of this method second hand from a friend who had attended a
paper clay workshop on Long Island. The workshop was given by Jerry
Bennett. I don't know about additives to the cellulose. I guess
firing fumes might be a concern. I fire my kiln in a separate
building and only go in there to make adjustments to the burners etc.
There doesn't seem to be a deleterious effect to the finished pot if
there are chemicals in fiber. This has worked for me and I thought I
would pass it along.

C.C. on Long Island getting ready to attend a Val Cushing workshop in
Corning, N.Y.

Ababi on tue 9 jul 02

Hello Calista
I work a lot with paperclay.
I have learnt a lot and learn more and more.
Lately I tested all my relevant claybodies with liner glazes.
I know that the porosity in the paperclay is invisible.
Do I have to re test my homemade paperclay? ( Out of these claybodies)
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/

Paperclay
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/803792/

Leland G. Hall on tue 9 jul 02

Hi every one. I've been following the paperclay thread with accute
interest, and see that paper clay does several unique things. Such as
improved green strength, lighter in weight, etc. I've also heard that
paperclay can have improved thermal shock tolerance. Any rakuists out
there know anything about this? Or might I be better off using a body with
up to 33% kyanite for some 28" by 18" slabs for a raku tryptich? Thanks.

Peace


Leland G. Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises

La Pine, Oregon, where my neighbors house burnt to ground yesterday
afternoon, taking their new truck, every thing they owned but the clothes
on their backs and two Old Growth Ponderosa's, and I was powerless to do
squat. (but no injuries, thank the stars) Needless to say, I could not
center today. Damn this drought.--------and to think, I play with fire for
a living......

iandol on tue 9 jul 02

Dear Philip & Ingrid Vanneste-Vuylsteke,

If this paper is loaded with boric acid and Borax, aka Sodium Tetra =
borate Deca Hydrate, it is a fireproof insulation. These chemicals are =
put into insulation because they both discharge a lot of water vapour =
when heated. This prevents air getting to the point of the source of the =
fire and helps to smother the flames.

Boric acid turns into boric oxide and melts at something in the region =
of 400 Celsius. Borax fuses to a clear fluid at just over 800 Celsius. =
If you keep on raising the temperature expect some sort of calamity =
since both chemicals are strong solvent fluxes.

Best go back to ordinary paper or cotton linters or even toilet tissue =
to overcome the problem.

Best regards,

Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia

Ababi on tue 9 jul 02

How much B2O3 is added?
You can bisque it in oxidation and refire to raku, perhaps it will give yo=
u any effect
without
glazing?
Ababi

---------- Original Message ----------

>Hello,

>This is interesting.
>I do use "Isofloc" (www.isofloc.de) to make paperclay. This is a kind of
>pre-shredded paper with Borax and Boric Acid
>in it, normally used for isolation.
>Advantage is that it does not smell at all, even after months.

>Bisque firing (up to 950 =B0C) is no problem, but as soon as I fire highe=
r
>(e.g. up to 1050 =B0C), I get a lot of deformation in the boxes I make. C=
ould
>that be due to the
>Borax and Boric Acid ?
>(no problem for Raku Firing, though)

>Looking forward to hear the lists opinion on this.

>Philip

>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>Philip & Ingrid Vanneste-Vuylsteke
>Belgium
>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


>-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>Van: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>[mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]Namens Ababi
>Verzonden: maandag 8 juli 2002 7:07
>Aan: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Onderwerp: Re: paper clay


>I read an article, I could not find it again about someone who added bora=
x
>and boric
>acid. I think like you that this is a bad idea. The paperclay as it is ha=
s
>more flux
>because of the paper's ash, adding B2O3 must limit the use , perhaps to l=
ow
>fire.
>You must learn how to manipulate, I mean, how much to keep as slip, humid=

>clay or
>dried claybody. There is a temporary solution, to add some bleaching liqu=
id
>to length
>the "life' of the un smelly slip or to keep in the refrigerator the slip =
or
>humid claybody.
>Ababi
>---------- Original Message ----------

>>Is this cellulose fiber "fire-retardant" free? Most cellulose
>>insulation has chemical additives to make it flame retardant. These
>>chemicals if I remember right were borax or something similar; this
>>could have a serious impact on your firing temperature. Without the
>>fire retardant, I would concur on it being a good source. (used to make=

>>the stuff)

>>Earl Brunner
>>mailto:bruec@anv.net
>>http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec


>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
>>Behalf Of Calista Bookout
>>Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 9:37 AM
>>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>>Subject: paper clay

>>I am usually a lurker but realized that I have been using a material
>>for making paper clay that no one has mentioned so far. What I use
>>is a cellulose fiber insulation material used to blow insulation into
>>attics and so forth. I was able to find it at a local Lowe's home
>>improvement store. It comes in a plastic bail like bag and is
>>compacted. The fibers are pre shredded. The process involves mixing
>>a half bucket of loose clay slurry ( I use b-mix slurry but you
>>would use your usual clay body) Into this slurry you would measure
>>out 200 to 300 grams of the loose fiber. Break it up with your hands
>>as you drop it into the clay slurry and hand stir breaking up large
>>chunks of fiber and then proceed to use a mixing drill as has been
>>described in other methods. Let it sit over night to slake and then
>>drill it again till it is smooth. You may then put it out on plaster
>>to take away the excess moisture and wedge it into workable clay. I
>>do not put it into my pug mill because I do not want to contaminate
>>my throwing clay with the paper fibers. Anyway this is what works
>>for me. It seems somewhat easier that the other methods that have
>>been mentioned so far.

>>happy potting to all,
>>C.C. Bookout

>>________________________________________________________________________=
___
>___
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

>_________________________________________________________________________=
___
>__
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

>_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.

Marcia Selsor on tue 9 jul 02

Leland,
I use paper clay in my diptych slabs 25 x 22" . Started doing it to lighten their
weight from the kilns.
I find kyanite to be a very heavy chemical. I use some of that too but only 5-10%.
I have had some cracking problems lately and can't pin it down. I don't think it
is from the paper clay which I have been using for the past 9 years. I am using
several meshes of grog also. I think I am going too thin and have switched slab
rollers..

For maturing clay with paper pulp..not raku but other clays, I always thought one
needed to fire it a cone or two higher to get full maturity. The opposite was
mentioned in this thread.
Marcia in Montana


"Leland G. Hall" wrote:

> Hi every one. I've been following the paperclay thread with accute
> interest, and see that paper clay does several unique things. Such as
> improved green strength, lighter in weight, etc. I've also heard that
> paperclay can have improved thermal shock tolerance. Any rakuists out
> there know anything about this? Or might I be better off using a body with
> up to 33% kyanite for some 28" by 18" slabs for a raku tryptich? Thanks.

Ababi on tue 9 jul 02

I agree with you , wish it was.
(peace)
About paperclay and raku.
The air where was the paper pulp is like grog. I will tell you about some tests I made.
But first as might be tiered from the long writing I give you the conclusions:
Yes you can.

I tested
white earthenware with an add of 10% grog. It was fine, just when it was too thick the
water bath was too hard I should of sprinkle water instead.
I added paperclay to my stoneware buff mottled that I buy from my supplier. I had to
test a glaze at ^04 (glaze addict) letter I refired to raku.
Fine!
I made Pclay out of the low fire porcelain like I use based on VC with my materials
40plastic kaolin
20ball clay Ak
18 TALC
12 ALUMINA
10MOLOCHITE.
2BENTONITE

In general it is a good claybody
As a paperclay it was too fragile.

I made my own as you will see is kept in Insight:
To the clay gurus I show it as RO unity

5.5 Paperclay raku body
========================
D`ARVOR KAOLIN...... 1050.00 35.00%
BALL CLAY (AK)...... 600.00 20.00%
TALC................ 450.00 15.00%
BENTONITE........... 150.00 5.00%
Feldspar Soda F7/SE. 750.00 25.00%
========
3000.00

CaO 0.13* 1.67%
MgO 0.63* 5.84%
K2O 0.04* 0.75%
Na2O 0.20* 2.86%
TiO2 0.00 0.09%
Al2O3 1.15 26.93%
SiO2 4.44 61.08%
Fe2O3 0.02 0.78%

Si:Al 3.85
SiB:Al 3.85
Expan 5.70

The soda feldspar is very rich with SiO2

Feldspar Soda F-7... Maffie Italy


CaO 0.06* 0.56%
MgO 0.01* 0.04%
K2O 0.02* 0.28%
Na2O 0.92* 10.26%
TiO2 0.01 0.08%
Al2O3 0.96 17.60%
SiO2 6.58 71.01%
Fe2O3 0.01 0.16%
LOI 0.36

I substitute EPK to the French kaolin 1-1

The result was almost excellent. I like the claybody, it is strong but still not enough.
Yesterday I wrote another recipe hope it will be better.
5.6 Paperclay raku body
========================
BALL CLAY (AK)...... 540.00 18.00%
TALC................ 405.00 13.50%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 1080.00 36.00%
Feldspar Soda F-7... 675.00 22.50%
Molochite........... 300.00 10.00%
========
3000.00

CaO 0.14* 1.57%
MgO 0.64* 5.12%
K2O 0.03* 0.49%
Na2O 0.20* 2.47%
TiO2 0.01 0.18%
Al2O3 1.47 30.03%
P2O5 0.00 0.10%
SiO2 4.94 59.34%
Fe2O3 0.02 0.70%

Text1 4.67
Si:Al 3.35
SiB:Al 3.35
Expan 5.56

The logic of the changes:
I added to the base 10 molochite as an add to the air bubbles.
I removed the bentonite because anyway i add 2 grams per 1000 grams of soda ash
and 1 gram and sodium silicate. In this case I made floculant and defloculant together.
You might see that I will use a different Maffie feldspar but it is almost the same.

I site and write long letters because it is to hot to raku
In the next fire I will test this claybody:
It is too late now, the next time I shall remove the bentonite here too:
RAKU PAPERCLAY FOR COLORED GLAZE
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Cone 06 999 deg.C. -
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

SOIL 600.0
EPK Kaolin 900.0
BALL CLAY AK 600.0
TALC 600.0
Bentonite 150.0
Feldspar Soda F7 150.0
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I do not have a correct analysis of my soil.

>From an earlier test I had learnt that the iron in the soil makes the clear kind of ugly
but encourage colored glazes.
The logic of this claybody is to prove that you can use more materials, not necessarily
T- material
or K 129 the so expensive ones.

I add 30% in volume to the defloculanted mix.
What do we learn from the story: (used) paper is the potter's best friend!


I made a mix, did not fire yet of my regular stoneware called SM0.2 and sm0.5 to have
two size grog as paperclay. I added about 1% brass chips. I will get from it mottled
gray, mottled green or mottled copper paperclaybody

I made more tests when they will be done I will upload them to my site.
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/

---------- Original Message ----------

>Hi every one. I've been following the paperclay thread with accute
>interest, and see that paper clay does several unique things. Such as
>improved green strength, lighter in weight, etc. I've also heard that
>paperclay can have improved thermal shock tolerance. Any rakuists out
>there know anything about this? Or might I be better off using a body with
>up to 33% kyanite for some 28" by 18" slabs for a raku tryptich? Thanks.

>Peace



>Leland G. Hall
>Before The Wheel Enterprises

>La Pine, Oregon, where my neighbors house burnt to ground yesterday
>afternoon, taking their new truck, every thing they owned but the clothes
>on their backs and two Old Growth Ponderosa's, and I was powerless to do
>squat. (but no injuries, thank the stars) Needless to say, I could not
>center today. Damn this drought.--------and to think, I play with fire for
>a living......

>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Snail Scott on tue 9 jul 02

At 07:02 AM 7/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>For maturing clay with paper pulp..not raku but other clays, I always
thought one
>needed to fire it a cone or two higher to get full maturity.


I know that when I mixed large quantities of
paper pulp (newspapers) into my normal ^4 (red,
reduction fired) clay body, it warped badly
by ^1. I'm just guessing, but I attribute
part of that to the fluxing action of the ash
and partly to the sparse, honeycombed structure
of the remaining clay. The clay structure may
have contributed to the warping, but the
resulting clay seemed very vitrified to me,
more so than at ^4 without the paper. (It was
a LOT of paper.)

-Snail

Marcia Selsor on fri 12 jul 02

Snail,
I read that you should add more grog and fire clay to avoid slumping
when using paper pulp.
I have a good book "Working with Paper Clay and other additives" by
Anne Lightwood.
Yesterday I was feeling rushed to I went to Lowe's and bought cellulose
instead of making my own pulp. I mixed up a new raku body and Linda
Blossom's ^6 handbuilding body..both using 20-30% cellulose.
Today, I get back to work. I'll report on how I like the cellulose
compared to paper.
Best wishes and hope everyone is staying cooling. Montana is expected to
break all time
heat record today.
Marcia

Snail Scott wrote:
>
> At 07:02 AM 7/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
> >For maturing clay with paper pulp..not raku but other clays, I always
> thought one
> >needed to fire it a cone or two higher to get full maturity.
>
> I know that when I mixed large quantities of
> paper pulp (newspapers) into my normal ^4 (red,
> reduction fired) clay body, it warped badly
> by ^1. I'm just guessing, but I attribute
> part of that to the fluxing action of the ash
> and partly to the sparse, honeycombed structure
> of the remaining clay. The clay structure may
> have contributed to the warping, but the
> resulting clay seemed very vitrified to me,
> more so than at ^4 without the paper. (It was
> a LOT of paper.)
>
> -Snail
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2002.html

Ababi on fri 12 jul 02

The, paper ash in the clay lowering the maturity.
Every claybody must be tested for the strength for itself. Some will slump when they
are thin,
A hint I can give you about what you have "over there" Laguna's Calico ( the gray as
green ware) can be very thin. ( ^ 6 oxidation)
When I make it this way
10000 gram dried claybody
400-500 milliliter water
20 gram soda ash
10 gram sodium silicate
to the slurry I add 30% in volume paper pulp. You can see an example in my paperclay
page
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/803792/
it is called ( should be a bowl)

There is an add of black iron oxide but it would not help you, I believe, in reduction
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------

>Snail,
>I read that you should add more grog and fire clay to avoid slumping
>when using paper pulp.
>I have a good book "Working with Paper Clay and other additives" by
>Anne Lightwood.
>Yesterday I was feeling rushed to I went to Lowe's and bought cellulose
>instead of making my own pulp. I mixed up a new raku body and Linda
>Blossom's ^6 handbuilding body..both using 20-30% cellulose.
>Today, I get back to work. I'll report on how I like the cellulose
>compared to paper.
>Best wishes and hope everyone is staying cooling. Montana is expected to
>break all time
>heat record today.
>Marcia

>Snail Scott wrote:
>>
>> At 07:02 AM 7/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>> >For maturing clay with paper pulp..not raku but other clays, I always
>> thought one
>> >needed to fire it a cone or two higher to get full maturity.
>>
>> I know that when I mixed large quantities of
>> paper pulp (newspapers) into my normal ^4 (red,
>> reduction fired) clay body, it warped badly
>> by ^1. I'm just guessing, but I attribute
>> part of that to the fluxing action of the ash
>> and partly to the sparse, honeycombed structure
>> of the remaining clay. The clay structure may
>> have contributed to the warping, but the
>> resulting clay seemed very vitrified to me,
>> more so than at ^4 without the paper. (It was
>> a LOT of paper.)
>>
>> -Snail
>>
>>
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>--
>Marcia Selsor
>selsor@imt.net
>http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
>http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2002.html

>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.