Richardkerbes on mon 25 mar 96
My friend works in paperclay and is getting ready for a wokshop she will be
teaching soon. Anyone out there working in paperclay in new and strange
ways? Would you like to share your expertise and knowledge?
Thanks.
Eveline
Alyss Dorese on mon 25 mar 96
You wrote:
>
>----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
>My friend works in paperclay and is getting ready for a wokshop she
will be
>teaching soon. Anyone out there working in paperclay in new and
strange
>ways? Would you like to share your expertise and knowledge?
>Thanks.
>
>Eveline
I have been using paperclay in my ceramic sculptures for more than two
years. Either exclusively or in repair or as a bonding of greenware or
bisqueware. I throw pots, reshape and connect them to make 3 to 4 foot
whimsical animals. I live in the desert and unfortunately, often my
clay pots are too dry to bond together. Using slip made of paperclay,
solves the problem of the clay separating. I also have used paperclay
slip to sculpt, then shape and sand. On occasion, I have had partial
blow-up of pieces and I have been able to repair them utilizing
paperclay on bisque pieces. Both by using as a bonding or resculpting
the area. Throwing with paperclay is difficult. But slab rolling
works well. The advantage of having a greenware sculpture that you can
alter is the biggest advantage. This works for me because of the
dryness of the desert and the fact that there are times when I don't
get to work on my pieces for many weeks in between. I now find that I
needn't be as concerned about damproom practices. When I sculpt solely
with paperclay, I am able to leave my work uncovered and merely wet
down the areas that I am working on without any negative results.
Good luck
Alyss
>
Ellen L Price on mon 25 mar 96
This paper clay sounds facinating. Do you have a recipe for making it?
I would appreciate such information. Is it lighter when fired (it is
fired, I assume)?
Ellen in the desert - perfect weather now 75 daytime 45 nighttime.
On Mon, 25 Mar 1996, Alyss Dorese wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> You wrote:
> >
> >----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> >My friend works in paperclay and is getting ready for a wokshop she
> will be
> >teaching soon. Anyone out there working in paperclay in new and
> strange
> >ways? Would you like to share your expertise and knowledge?
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Eveline
>
> I have been using paperclay in my ceramic sculptures for more than two
> years. Either exclusively or in repair or as a bonding of greenware or
> bisqueware. I throw pots, reshape and connect them to make 3 to 4 foot
> whimsical animals. I live in the desert and unfortunately, often my
> clay pots are too dry to bond together. Using slip made of paperclay,
> solves the problem of the clay separating. I also have used paperclay
> slip to sculpt, then shape and sand. On occasion, I have had partial
> blow-up of pieces and I have been able to repair them utilizing
> paperclay on bisque pieces. Both by using as a bonding or resculpting
> the area. Throwing with paperclay is difficult. But slab rolling
> works well. The advantage of having a greenware sculpture that you can
> alter is the biggest advantage. This works for me because of the
> dryness of the desert and the fact that there are times when I don't
> get to work on my pieces for many weeks in between. I now find that I
> needn't be as concerned about damproom practices. When I sculpt solely
> with paperclay, I am able to leave my work uncovered and merely wet
> down the areas that I am working on without any negative results.
>
> Good luck
>
> Alyss
>
>
> >
>
Monaghan, Paul on tue 26 mar 96
ClayArt,
Where and when will the friend be teaching the paperclay workshop? I've
made paperclay; 30% dried paper pulp by weight made from shredded computer
paper mascerated with a glaze blender, and stoneware clay. The pieces I've
made have been very successful. A small sculpture piece and a number of
very large pottery pieces such as bowls. The material is very strong even
in the leatherhard or greenware stage and takes glaze very well. The bowls
I constructed with drape molds basically to test the characteristics of the
material. Shrinkage tests on test tiles of paperclay and stoneware clay
were a wash. Both lost <1/16" per inch linearly. The bowls were large 12"
and 14" and were rolled sheets less than 1/16 thick. The durability was
amazing and they fired beautifully. Hope this is helpful.
Paul Monaghan
Monaghan, Paul on tue 26 mar 96
I did forget to mention in my last post that the fired paperclay is much
lighter and is very strong. In my particular case I used 30% dry paper pulp
by weight. Since most or all of the paper burns out in the firing the final
product is approximately 30% lighter all else (hydration, etc.) being equal.
The final product also rings like a bronze bell so it should be great for
lightweight wind chimes - my next life project.
Paul Monaghan
Dan Taylor on thu 28 mar 96
Ken,
Havn't used newspaper yet. Have you used toilet paper? That's what I'm
experimenting with. It mushes up easily and it's really fun unrolling it
all. ;-)
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have a question for people making paperclay, also. I am working on a
batch (long story), but I am using newsprint instead of white paper. Has
anyone tried this, and what, if any, effect did the ink or the
'not-so-white' paper have on the color of the fired body?
-Ken.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Dan Taylor dataylor@mlc.awinc.com
Taylor Clayworks Ph: (403)527-1002
1340 - 10th Ave. NE Fax: (403)527-1032
Medicine Hat, AB T1A 6G3 "Live your dreams"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Carol Durnford on sat 30 mar 96
We have a paper mill just outside of town and I have used both dried wood
fiber and wet fiber from the plant before it has been made into paper. It
has quite a foul odor,but I've found that if I either freeze it (in winter)
or add a few drops of iodine to the mix as I do with glazes that smell it
seems to kill most of the bacterial action, but not the sulfurous lignin
smell of the wood itself. I too have found that 30 to 50% fiber is needed
to make a lighter weight product. I use it for handbuilding because the
fiber makes greenware so strong and I get less breakage, but I also
discovered that I could file it like wood. Though I have not tried bleached
fiber with porcelain, we did have someone who used digested colored and
white paper fiber with porcelain and got excellent results making very thin
slabs with relief work fired to cone 10 then painted with watercolor and
acrylics. As wall pieces they were light weight, easy to hang and quite strong.
Dave D on Carol's line. Where we're now into the winter of '96-'97 so no
crocus this year.
Lynn Zimmer on sun 31 mar 96
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB1E48.983C7C40
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8BIT
when you say 30% by weight do you mean that the paper is dry and the clay is
wet- or do you add dry paper to dry clay and then the water-or dry paper to wet
clay- or what? I teach fifth through twelfth grades in the summer and paper
clay would certainly help mend some broken pots and hearts. thanks
lynn zimmer
email lynnzim@alend.com
----------
From: Monaghan, Paul[SMTP:monaghap@sm5.ascsm.wpafb.af.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 1996 3:48 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: PaperClay
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
ClayArt,
Where and when will the friend be teaching the paperclay workshop? I've
made paperclay; 30% dried paper pulp by weight made from shredded computer
paper mascerated with a glaze blender, and stoneware clay. The pieces I've
made have been very successful. A small sculpture piece and a number of
very large pottery pieces such as bowls. The material is very strong even
in the leatherhard or greenware stage and takes glaze very well. The bowls
I constructed with drape molds basically to test the characteristics of the
material. Shrinkage tests on test tiles of paperclay and stoneware clay
were a wash. Both lost <1/16" per inch linearly. The bowls were large 12"
and 14" and were rolled sheets less than 1/16 thick. The durability was
amazing and they fired beautifully. Hope this is helpful.
Paul Monaghan
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB1E48.983C7C40
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
eJ8+IgIWAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABBJAG
ACwBAAABAAAADAAAAAMAADADAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAE4AAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDd
AQ9UAgAAAABDZXJhbWljIEFydHMgRGlzY3Vzc2lvbiBMaXN0AFNNVFAAQ0xBWUFSVEBMU1YuVUtZ
LkVEVQAAAB4AAjABAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgADMAEAAAAUAAAAQ0xBWUFSVEBMU1YuVUtZLkVE
VQADABUMAQAAAAMA/g8GAAAAHgABMAEAAAAfAAAAJ0NlcmFtaWMgQXJ0cyBEaXNjdXNzaW9uIExp
c3QnAAACAQswAQAAABkAAABTTVRQOkNMQVlBUlRATFNWLlVLWS5FRFUAAAAAAwAAOQAAAAALAEA6
AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAM6NQEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNyb3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEI
AQSAAQAOAAAAUkU6IFBhcGVyQ2xheQByBAEFgAMADgAAAMwHAwAeAA4ANAAXAAYAUwEBIIADAA4A
AADMBwMAHgAOAC4AFAAGAEoBAQmAAQAhAAAAQ0E4MjQ3MTEzNjhBQ0YxMTk4MDMwMDQwMDUxOTQ0
RTUA0QYBA5AGAGAGAAASAAAACwAjAAAAAAADACYAAAAAAAsAKQABAAAAAwA2AAAAAABAADkAoC0Z
j4seuwEeAHAAAQAAAA4AAABSRTogUGFwZXJDbGF5AAAAAgFxAAEAAAAWAAAAAbsei48ZEUeCy4o2
Ec+YAwBABRlE5QAAHgAeDAEAAAAFAAAAU01UUAAAAAAeAB8MAQAAABIAAABseW5uemltQGFsZW5k
LmNvbQAAAAMABhAOp7tuAwAHEIIEAAAeAAgQAQAAAGUAAABXSEVOWU9VU0FZMzAlQllXRUlHSFRE
T1lPVU1FQU5USEFUVEhFUEFQRVJJU0RSWUFORFRIRUNMQVlJU1dFVC1PUkRPWU9VQURERFJZUEFQ
RVJUT0RSWUNMQVlBTkRUSEVOVEhFAAAAAAIBCRABAAAA7gQAAOoEAABtCAAATFpGdbCnb2r/AAoB
DwIVAqgF6wKDAFAC8gkCAGNoCsBzZXQyNwYABsMCgzIDxQIAcHJCcRHic3RlbQKDM3cC5AcTAoB9
CoAIzwnZO/EWDzI1NQKACoENsQtg4G5nMTAzFFALChRRRQvyYwBAIHdoCfAgAnkIYCBzYXkgMxAw
JSBiG6B3ZWnkZ2gFQGRvGzMHgAORTnQRgAVAHWBlIAqwcG0EkCAEAByQchugAHBkPR2jYwtgG6Ae
URwwdC3mIAWxHKVhZB7gHoId9H50HLAegh9DHsUdQh3Qd/sdgASQLSASIQofwR8zH/PDGvAdgD8g
IEkdUB0geRFwIGYGkB1gHVEDYHX3HGAdUBwwbCZiCcAgsAeR4wuAHaNzdW0HgAXAHsKrHfQfQ3cI
YGwe4GMEkJsBkAuAbBugGwBscB0BrR7RcwNwHdBiA2BrGxH4cG90BCAewhsACsAsYPIuHVJuawQg
CoUKhSqw+m4DoHoHcCixCoUT4AtwtwMgLqIu8UAHQCtBLgWgBm0tvQr0bGkxODDBAtFpLTE0NA3w
DNBzMyMLWTE2CqADYBPQY30FQC01RwqHM/sMMDTGRn0DYTo2TjTGDIIF0AIgYUMcYABwLCBQYSoA
W2BTTVRQOgRgOiNwwEBzbTUuYQTwO9AkLncKsGZiPABmLvptAxBdNe82/QZgAjA4L2U5O1QKUHNk
G5A6gE0TCsAmETI2OoAxOTmiNhuwOjQ4OpBNPU+5Nv1Ubz+POTwqAHQFIPUwsCAWEGMFIAiQAjAE
IBxvZi6QBAAFQENMQTBZQVJUQ18+XnVizmo1AUV/OTtSZUvwOqCdHhFDH1ExTzJTMzYzx68aRTTP
Ui81QE8FEGcLgO8HQB0BBBA6MGVSX1UZLczTTmIHEHQsLcxXGwAWEPcesxrzA/BsAyAdsgNQSDHd
HuBiHdAl4wuAZx2oKZUici2QaG9wJZIndt5lCoUAwA2wW0g7G7MegPsIkCkWcCoAKxAcCF1TA1L/
G3AmsAmADbAqIQNwX1AjQX8KhR30AMAE8ASQIzFY4WntJnFhJ5ALYHorsTCyBJD/OoAewhPAAiAH
0ArAHyQtMP9BUB3CCJAqQAQgXK4RgFzAX1pBGxFcwB6RKIBjZpFz9mYqAGXxQRtwAMBZcQTwvV9h
dAhwZkUes2PAbiiQv1pQBcBIkAqFaHMLYHJUQP8sMiNBIRFmdGjBY6EEIAbg/HdsLSFmEwDAI0EH
MR5CrWh0dANgWuFlXMBuCoX/KBUwsB2AWHERgR7gBbEJw+9lYxPAVDEetGEsAAQgY+T/aHMnMWlS
ZiJukwqFJcAFoP8AgHBwaNBjNx6AHgEdAAbw5mRucTwQaWNp0RugIZH/E9BI4R8DEYEA0G9yE8B4
wN9Icx2xXOdvdGXxUyawC4D+a3OieWJIcR1BeXMDEAeR/0iRW1hk306WHDBYkiMRXDA9ZfFCLFAm
IBWgSOE8MdovNJAiHeAeIm4mETKAP2VACsAqsHV6gKRsxDEy/iIKhR7CMyCCgFjDWIIDYP9ZcF7B
XDAJ4CxhfhEEIC1Sr0KAglEdUXjAa2X1ZAhw/wGgAxBjgBwRPBCFZgDALvD/WuEexRugJkAWEVpB
OrBHgPtpMYOTSFxQWmFawCfxBCD/KuJpMi3MOqI5906vT79QzAsKhRUxAJPAAAADABAQAAAAAAMA
ERAAAAAAQAAHMEBnw7aKHrsBQAAIMEBnw7aKHrsBHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6IAAAAAC29Q==
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB1E48.983C7C40--
Sue Borchardt on tue 4 jun 96
Hi,
After reading this months Ceramics Monthy article on paper clay I'm
intersted in trying it out but I didn't see any instructions for
how to make it.
I gathered from the article that you can take regular paper and
soak it until it breaks down. Do I then just wedge the pulp into
my regular clay? Does any kind of clay work with this?
How can I figure out how much paper to add (to already mixed clay)?
I'm sure this has been covered before but I couldn't search the
archives. Looks like they've not made the transition to the
new listserve yet.
Thanks,
Sue
--
Sue Borchardt------- sue@gdb.org ------------- Genome Data Base
Johns Hopkins School of Medicine ----------- Baltimore Maryland
Michael H. Evans on mon 1 jul 96
In article <31B48939.75CE@gdb.org>, Sue Borchardt writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> gathered from the article that you can take regular paper and
>soak it until it breaks down. Do I then just wedge the pulp into
>my regular clay? Does any kind of clay work with this?
>
Hi Sue,
When I made paper clay I used toilet paper. The reason for this is that
it was very easy to soak, no need to do much tearing, but it was
extremely thirsty so I had to add a lot of water, after a few days (I
was in no hurry) it had broken down quite nicely. I then mixed this very
thick paste with some very thick slurry of my chosen clay. I have a
plaster slab with a large indentation in it which I line with clean
cloth and put my resulting mixture in it to remove moisture, and later
wedged it. The proportion was 30% paper slurry to 70% clay, I think. I
made tiles with it. It worked very well as they were much lighter than
all clay tiles. I used a mould for them and the paper clay was perfect
for this. When I fired there was a strange smell... I do not know what
was used to produce the toilet paper (it was white one) but some
bleaching agent perhaps, so I was not in the studio when firing went on.
Also my clay was white and I believe that if you use printed paper some
inks stain... I also believe that all clays can be used for this but
I've only tried white earthenware. Hope you get some good results,
Lisette Degioanni, in Thames Ditton, London, England where it's so cold
you'd think it's winter.
--
Lisette Degioanni
Ann Peters on thu 16 jan 97
Rosette Gault publishes a handbook that tells you ALL about paperclay.
You can order it by sending her $19.95 US - it's called "Paperclay for
Ceramic Sculptors - a Studio Companion"
Rosette Gault
PO Box 9060
Queen Anne Station
Seattle, Washington 98109
Leslie Ihde on tue 22 apr 97
Hey Paper clay people- I recently tried paperclay with shredded paper from
the office. I found it a real pain in the butt to get to disintegrate.
Maybe next time I'll boil it.
My thought is this- I recently did my laundry, and as useal cleaned out
the ample lint from my lint filter- isn't that made of similar materials
to paper? Would super fine lint work with clay the way paper does? Many
fabrics are plant in origin as is paper. Any thoughts?
Leslie in Vestal NY
Cindy on wed 23 apr 97
Leslie wrote: > Hey Paper clay people- I recently tried paperclay with
shredded paper from
> the office. I found it a real pain in the butt to get to disintegrate.
> Maybe next time I'll boil it.
I don't know about mixing with clay, but I use a blender to disintegrate
scrap paper for paper-making. Fill your blender half-way with warm water.
Tear non-shiny paper into thin strips and put it piece by piece through the
hole in the blender lid. Blend until it's good and mushy. Since its a
deflocculant, you might even consider using vinegar instead of water (but
that's just a speculation).
> My thought is this- I recently did my laundry, and as useal cleaned out
> the ample lint from my lint filter- isn't that made of similar materials
> to paper? Would super fine lint work with clay the way paper does? Many
> fabrics are plant in origin as is paper. Any thoughts?
> Leslie in Vestal NY
Lint is made out of whatever your clothes are made from. Some paper is
cotton, some linen, and most wood pulp (usually white pine). Office paper
would be wood pulp. Would lint work? Who knows, and why not try it?
Cindy Strnad
cathy durham on wed 23 apr 97
I have only done paperclay in a weekend workshop, but I got shredded
paper from an office, poured lots of HOT water into the bucket with the
paper and let it sit 24 hrs. That gave it time to breakdown and it was
easy to mix (and cheaper than using toilet paper).
Cathy
You Name on wed 23 apr 97
Use newspaper, dissolves almost as soon as you put the warm water in.
Erin
Trevor Corp on thu 24 apr 97
A paper with a high % of cotton is what you are looking for. Newspaper
will not perform the sculptural advantages and freedoms of paperclay,
for example strength in green state, and the ability to attach dry clay
to wet or dry to dry clays. There is a book published that will teach
you all the properties of paperclay, by Rosa Gault. You can find this
in the back of many ceramic magazines.
You Name on fri 25 apr 97
When Making piece with paper clay, I find that attaching pieces to it when
it's dry very easy. I have made pieces in a mold that are clozse to paper
thin, but are very srong when dry and after firing. Paper clay can be used
not only for sculpture pieces, but also functional ware. It can be glazed
like any other piece, it is just a little more porus.
erin
Estelle Renberger on sat 26 apr 97
Leslie...I have used lint from my dryer and found it to work *almost* as
well as paperpulp.The lint in the filter after a load of towels is the
best.. but the problem with most dryer lint in my house is the loong
people hair and much/much dog and cat hair....very difficult to work
around!
I soak my paper strips (newsprint/grocery bags) in hot water for about
15 min before putting in the blender and never have any trouble getting
it to disintegrate.
Janet or Michael Francoeur on thu 17 jul 97
Is there a place you can buy paperclay already mixed
with clay? I know Axner is going to have it but they don't
yet.
Thanks in advance.
Janet Francoeur
Susan H. Park on fri 18 jul 97
Seattle Pottery Supply has paper clays and so does Clay Art in Tacoma.
Both in Washington State.
Dawne Jenelle Fowkes on fri 18 jul 97
East Bay Clay in Richmond, California has premixed paperclay and will also
prepare paperclay using your own clay recipe. Their number is: 510-233-1800
and talk to Jim Myers. I met him at NCECA in L.V. He's a very nice guy.
Tell him what you need...
Cheers!
Dawne Jenelle Fowkes
Ventura, California
Eileen M Streeter on sun 20 jul 97
am in a university level ceramics program... and the decision was
made.... based on the high cost of shipping premade paperclay... that
we would make our own... mixed slip (of desired clay body) and about
25% paper pulp... you can make this by soaking small pieces of cotton
linters (obtained from a paper making supply co.) in hot water and when
completely wet we ran it through a common blender, strained it and
measured it in inches in a bucket, then added the slip... mixed well
with mixer (glaze type)... worked well.... found that throwing wasn't
as successful as handbuilding and sculptural forms... and it didn't cut
cleanly.... great for molds... question... does the premixed have
advantages for throwing?
good luck...
e.s.
On Thu, 17 Jul 1997, Janet or Michael Francoeur wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Is there a place you can buy paperclay already mixed
> with clay? I know Axner is going to have it but they don't
> yet.
> Thanks in advance.
> Janet Francoeur
>
nikom chimnok on wed 11 feb 98
Several people have said that for mixing paperclay, a ratio of two
parts slip to one part paper pulp is a good starting point. My question: is
this slip a casting slip, i.e. containing deffloculant, or is it just a
mixture of clay and water? It does make quite a difference, in the ratio of
dry clay to water, since the specific gravity of the deffloculated slip is
much higher.
I should mention that ultimately I want to use this clay for
sculpture, not for casting. I have previously cast paperclay as slop,
starting with casting slip, but never tried using it as plastic clay before.
TIA
Nikom
on a steamy Thai morning after a nocturnal shower
Barbara Lewis on thu 12 feb 98
I have make paperclay from slurry that has been generated from other clay
projects. A two to one ratio, from my experience, would make the clay too
"punky". I usually add no more than 25 to 30%, visually, to a bucket of
clay slurry. Barbara
At 10:23 AM 2/11/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Several people have said that for mixing paperclay, a ratio of two
>parts slip to one part paper pulp is a good starting point. My question: is
>this slip a casting slip, i.e. containing deffloculant, or is it just a
>mixture of clay and water? It does make quite a difference, in the ratio of
>dry clay to water, since the specific gravity of the deffloculated slip is
>much higher.
> I should mention that ultimately I want to use this clay for
>sculpture, not for casting. I have previously cast paperclay as slop,
>starting with casting slip, but never tried using it as plastic clay before.
>
>TIA
>Nikom
>on a steamy Thai morning after a nocturnal shower
>
WellSpring ClayWorks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
(301) 932-3915
Sharon Clayton on fri 13 feb 98
Does paperclay smoke too much to fire with other pots in an electric kiln? =
Does
it hold water? Any other info. on the subject of paperclay would also be
greatly appreciated. The potter questioning paperclay fires her work at a =
local
guild and therefore other members pieces are all put together to fire to =
=5E6.
Would it affect the other pieces in the kiln?
-----Original Message-----
From: Barbara Lewis =5BSMTP:blewis=40crosslink.net=5D
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 1998 7:39 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: paperclay
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have make paperclay from slurry that has been generated from other clay
projects. A two to one ratio, from my experience, would make the clay too
=22punky=22. I usually add no more than 25 to 30=25, visually, to a bucket =
of
clay slurry. Barbara
At 10:23 AM 2/11/98 EST, you wrote:
=3E----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3E Several people have said that for mixing paperclay, a ratio of =
two
=3Eparts slip to one part paper pulp is a good starting point. My question: =
is
=3Ethis slip a casting slip, i.e. containing deffloculant, or is it just a
=3Emixture of clay and water? It does make quite a difference, in the ratio =
of
=3Edry clay to water, since the specific gravity of the deffloculated slip =
is
=3Emuch higher.
=3E I should mention that ultimately I want to use this clay for
=3Esculpture, not for casting. I have previously cast paperclay as slop,
=3Estarting with casting slip, but never tried using it as plastic clay =
before.
=3E
=3ETIA
=3ENikom
=3Eon a steamy Thai morning after a nocturnal shower
=3E
WellSpring ClayWorks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
(301) 932-3915
Barbara Lewis on sat 14 feb 98
My experience is that other pieces are not affected. However, it does
produce a lot of smoke. Don't know what the ventilation system is like
where you are, but you should be prepared. I don't know if paperclay holds
water when it is glazed. I usually use the paperclay to create super-thin
slabs which I either saggar fire or use as clay "canvases." Please share
your results. Good luck. Barbara
At 09:17 AM 2/13/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Does paperclay smoke too much to fire with other pots in an electric kiln?
Does
>it hold water? Any other info. on the subject of paperclay would also be
>greatly appreciated. The potter questioning paperclay fires her work at a
local
>guild and therefore other members pieces are all put together to fire to ^6.
>Would it affect the other pieces in the kiln?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Barbara Lewis [SMTP:blewis@crosslink.net]
>Sent: Thursday, February 12, 1998 7:39 AM
>To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
>Subject: Re: paperclay
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have make paperclay from slurry that has been generated from other clay
>projects. A two to one ratio, from my experience, would make the clay too
>"punky". I usually add no more than 25 to 30%, visually, to a bucket of
>clay slurry. Barbara
>
> At 10:23 AM 2/11/98 EST, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Several people have said that for mixing paperclay, a ratio of two
>>parts slip to one part paper pulp is a good starting point. My question: is
>>this slip a casting slip, i.e. containing deffloculant, or is it just a
>>mixture of clay and water? It does make quite a difference, in the ratio of
>>dry clay to water, since the specific gravity of the deffloculated slip is
>>much higher.
>> I should mention that ultimately I want to use this clay for
>>sculpture, not for casting. I have previously cast paperclay as slop,
>>starting with casting slip, but never tried using it as plastic clay before.
>>
>>TIA
>>Nikom
>>on a steamy Thai morning after a nocturnal shower
>>
>
>WellSpring ClayWorks
>5412 Well Spring Road
>La Plata, MD 20646
>(301) 932-3915
>
WellSpring ClayWorks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
(301) 932-3915
Sue Davis on sat 14 feb 98
Barbara,
I have not noticed any difference in the firing cycle using paper clay. I have
put the paper clay pieces in with regular clay pieces with no problem. The
only thing I don't like is the surface is a little rougher after firing.
Sue
Randy Becker on thu 19 feb 98
Help! I am interested in the incorporation of printmaking
techniques with clay...specifically with paperclay or in any other methods
of printing that you have found to be a success. Mixed media techniques
are always welcome. Thanks for your input...it is greatly appreciated.
Carol Durnford on sat 21 feb 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Help! I am interested in the incorporation of printmaking
>techniques with clay...specifically with paperclay or in any other methods
>of printing that you have found to be a success. Mixed media techniques
>are always welcome. Thanks for your input...it is greatly appreciated.
>
>I have seen some success using thickened underglaze as an ink. I am
presently making some "underglaze ink" to use in screen printing designs and
ball milling the ink in my rock tumbler using balls that I made from high
fire porcelain.. My third experiment will be to completely dry the mixtures
and grind them into some burnt plate oil as a vehicle .. dave
Dave Durnford
Box 2145
Missoula MT 59806
durnford@selway.umt.edu
Pam Myam on sun 22 feb 98
<< Subject: paperclay
From: Randy Becker
Date: 2/19/98 7:43 AM Eastern Standard Time
Message-id:
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Help! I am interested in the incorporation of printmaking
techniques with clay...specifically with paperclay or in any other methods
of printing that you have found to be a success. Mixed media techniques
are always welcome. Thanks for your input...it is greatly appreciated. >>
===
There is a great little book titled _Ceramics and Print_ by Paul Scott,
University of Pennsylvania Press. Mine was a gift and came from England,
where it was first published. It's from a series of "Ceramics Handbooks."
Maybe Steve Branfman has it at the Potters Shop. It's all about just what you
are asking. It's great. It also has information about using paperclay.
University of Pennsylvania Press
423 Guardian Drive
Philadelphia, PA 19104
If you can't get it, let me know and I'll ask the giver for the source.
Cheers.
Pam
W. Dean Ward on wed 25 feb 98
Hi,
I'm taking an advanced ceramics class here at Eastern Kentucky
University, and this semester the problem is paperclay. I've gotten
several mixtures and am getting that down (thanks Richard and Linda),
and I'm doing several tests on tiles. The only problem I've come up with
is a quick way to dry the slabs I've made, so I can run them through the
roller. I've tried a heat gun on smaller pieces, it does well in
scortching the paper fibers, and the slabs I'm using are about 2 feet by
3 feet. If anyone has a good way of drying quicker, and can pass it
alone, I'd really appricate it. I'm sure my professor, Joe, is tired of
hearing my excuse that I'm waiting for the slab to dry.
Thanks,
Dean Ward
Dannon Rhudy on wed 25 feb 98
Paperclay does absorb a lot of moisture, but: make the slab
thinner to begin with, and lay it on 1)a large plaster bat,
or 2) a sheet of plasterboard, with another on top, and, anyway,
how dry does it need to BE, to go through the slab roller?
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
Hi,
I'm taking an advanced ceramics class here at Eastern Kentucky
University, and this semester the problem is paperclay. I've
gotten
several mixtures and am getting that down (thanks Richard and
Linda),
and I'm doing several tests on tiles. The only problem I've come
up with
is a quick way to dry the slabs I've made, so I can run them
through the
roller. I've tried a heat gun on smaller pieces, it does well in
scortching the paper fibers, and the slabs I'm using are about 2
feet by
3 feet. If anyone has a good way of drying quicker, and can pass
it
alone, I'd really appricate it. I'm sure my professor, Joe, is
tired of
hearing my excuse that I'm waiting for the slab to dry.
Thanks,
Dean Ward
David Buck on thu 26 feb 98
W. Dean Ward wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi,
> I'm taking an advanced ceramics class here at Eastern Kentucky
> U
> is a quick way to dry the slabs I've made, so I can run them through the
> roller. I've tried a heat gun on smaller pieces, it does well in
> scortching the paper fibers, and the slabs I'm using are about 2 feet by
> 3 feet. If anyone has a good way of drying quicker, and can pass it
> alone, I'd really appricate it. I'm sure my professor, Joe, is tired of
> hearing my excuse that I'm waiting for the slab to dry.
> Thanks,
> Dean Ward
Hi Dean:
You could bisk fire one or two slabs of paperclay then dry your slabs
on top of, or between the bisked slabs.
David B. Buck
Nepean, Ont.
Cwolo on mon 25 may 98
Does anyone know if you can patch regular clay with paperclay made from the
same base clay? Have just finished reading the Pclay book by Rosette Gault,
but she doesnn't address the issue. Am not a sculptor, so don't real have any
need for pclay usually. Hate to mix up a batch, if it doesn't work.
Diane in Florida where summer has come and it is hot, humid, and smoggy.
Darrol Shillingburg on tue 26 may 98
Diane Ask,
> Does anyone know if you can patch regular clay with paperclay made from
the
> same base clay?
Yes. I have done that a couple of times to salvage large coil built
vessels. Make a slurry of your base clay, add paper pulp (I prefer dot
matrix computer printer paper), mix well, dry, wedge and go.
Darrol in Elephant Butte, NM
DarrolS@Zianet.com
on the web at http://www.zianet.com/DarrolS
NgtvSpace on tue 26 may 98
This year I tried the paper clay frenxy that the undergrads were into (I have
a macho notion of clay and paper clay aint one of them) , I added to the water
toilet paper, the mixture should look like oatmeal ( because I didnt have
money to by the paper mache package) and then added this to my regular clay
mixture, I've been using a stoneware sculpture body as well as a plain Raku
clay body recipe. The idea behind the paper was to make my pieces stronger to
handle in a greenware state. However one of my zealot paper clay student and I
repaired hellacious cracks in a pieces that didnt have any paper clay added
to it when it was bone dry. The astonishing experiment was when a piece that
had paper added to the body from the beginning, came out puffed up like the
Sydney towers and in four pieces, from a Bisque firing, my student said "paper
clay to the rescue", well we used the paper clay patch mixture with vinegar
and coils of the wet clay body, glazed and put it back in the kiln (it was
still warm from the Bisque firing)...and whatta ya know that think held
toghether better than chicklet, so I dont say anything else about paper clay
winnies, it is further a miracle as its sat outside the hall all semester and
the janitors havent thrown it out.
Lorca
Donna L. Fenner on tue 26 may 98
Diane -
My understanding from another potter is that paperclay is very
useful in repairing cracks in bisque pieces because of the fiber content.
Make a small batch and five it a try.
Donna
At 09:13 AM 5/25/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Does anyone know if you can patch regular clay with paperclay made from the
>same base clay? Have just finished reading the Pclay book by Rosette Gault,
>but she doesnn't address the issue. Am not a sculptor, so don't real have any
>need for pclay usually. Hate to mix up a batch, if it doesn't work.
>
>Diane in Florida where summer has come and it is hot, humid, and smoggy.
>
Donna
Creative Ceramics
Greensboro, NC
Email: dlfenner@mindspring.com
Russel Fouts on tue 20 oct 98
Harold,
>>My eldest daughter is studying at La Cambre and she is interested in
Paperclay. As I found your message while researching the subject for her, I
wandered if you could help her to find a supplier of paperclay in Brussels ?
<<
She's lucky, it's a good school.
As far as I know there is no paperclay supplier in Brussels (or in Belgium,
but I could be wrong). It's easy enough to make. This is what I do:
- Take a bucket and fill it loosely with unrolled toilet paper. About 6
rolls or so.
- Almost fill the bucket with hot water.
- Add a bit of Thymol disolved in water to kill the mold that WILL grow in
it.
- Mix with a paint/plaster mixer attached to an electric drill until the
paper is a pulp. This is very quick with toilet paper.
- Sieve through a screen or a fine kitchen strainer (une ecumoire?) to get
as much of the water out as you can.
- Add this to a thick clay slip, about 30 - 40% by volume. The percentages
don't have to be exact, just guess.
- You can either use this thick slip as it is or you can dry it out more by
pouring it on plaster slabs.
When you fire it make sure that the kiln is very well vented, remember,
you're burning a lot of paper.
The master (mistress?) of paperclay is Rosette Gault, her site is at
http://www.paperclayart.com
Buy her book from Colpaert in Gent or cheaper online from Amazon. Read it,
study it then pulp it!
Enjoy
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
32 2 223 02 75
Http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts
Http://www.japan-net.or.jp/~iwcat
Please send all replies publicly
Christine Laginess on wed 20 jan 99
Hi,
Unfortunetly, being new at this e mail, I goofed. My machine shut down just
as I opened my one piece of mail replying to my request for info about
paperclay. My mail was lost in cyberspace. If you sent me a reply to this
I just missed reading it and hope that you will send it back. I am mostly
interested in sculpture. With a secondary interest in handbuilding. I have
done stoneware scuplture before, but the work is so heavy and I am building
larger now. Also I wish to sculpt pieces that my be a little more fragile and
easily broken. I just received the book "Paperclay". and will begin devouring
it tonight, but I would like some conversation about your results, any
problems, tricks to the trade, bad fumes from kiln, etc. Hope to hear from
you again, and anyone else out there with info.
Thanks, Christine
clay&maxwell on tue 16 feb 99
Hi curious paperclay types!
Here is my most recent experience using paperclay. I was loading the kiln
with student work when a mask broke into 3 pieces! It was made too thin
and was completely bone dry. Figuring there was nothing more to lose at
this point I took some t.p. (toliet paper) pulp out of the freezer,
defrosted in the microwave, squeezed out the extra water and mixed it up
with some of the same clay body as the mask. It made a sticky-wet clay
which I then layered onto the mask in the following way: I sponged the mask
with water to dampen it in the areas I needed to repair and carefully put
some fibrous looking paperclay along the seams I wanted to glue. I
carefully pieced the mask together and then starting layer thin wet strips
of paperclay over the seam, blending into the mask until I got a nice
strong thick layer. (Along the way I managed to make a few new broken
edges because the piece was so thin but I managed to patch everything up)
I patched both front and back and let the drying process happen "out in the
open" so I could check for strength, new cracks etc. Then I bisque fired
it and it came out "whole". :) I was happy to be able to give a whole
mask back to the student and happy that I had proved to myself that
paperclay is truly amazing for repair work! (the "student" was a child in
elementary school who would not be able to repair the piece herself.)
I am currently working on a series of sculptures and find the strength of
the paperclay truly amazing. Good luck to Christine and take some chances
and experiment with the stuff as you go along - you'll be amazed.
Deb Clay
in warm and sunny Calgary
Ronan ORourke on sat 17 jul 99
Randall,
The proportion of paper to clay that you use will depend on what you =3D
intend
to do with it and on personal preference. A simple line blend will give you
something to experiment with.
As regards the type of paper, theory has it that the longer the fiber =
=3D
length
the better, in practice I have used anything from newsprint to loo roll with
good results.
One important thing to remember with paper clay is not to leave it lying
around wet for too long or it will go mouldy. Only mix as much as you will =
=3D
be
using or dry it out.
Hope that has been of some use.
Ronan O'Rourke
Vicki Cederquist on thu 29 jul 99
Could someone please share a good paperclay recipe? I want to give
it a try.
Thank you.
Vicki Cederquist
www.paradisemall.com
Marcia Selsor on fri 30 jul 99
Take your preferred clay body, mix into a slurry. Take some shredded
paper (newspaper works great), put in hot water, beat it for 15 minutes
strain it, squezze it into grapfruit size balls and add to your clay
slurry. Beat it up and get it as thick as you can, pour it onto plaster
slabs or into a plaster basin or onto some porrous surface and wait til
its workable.
Or if you have a soldner mixer I put the pulp in first and then add the
dry mix. -mixing to a workable consistency.
Have at it.
Marcia in Montana
Vicki Cederquist wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Could someone please share a good paperclay recipe? I want to give
> it a try.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Vicki Cederquist
> www.paradisemall.com
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
Rosemary Attwell on sun 1 aug 99
Hi Vicki
I posted a paper clay recipe just recently but gladly send it again :)
pulp your paper in a bucket ( we used toilet tissue - cheap & it broke down
without excesive mixing)
strain your pupl & press out excess water
add to your slip (nice creamy consistency) at a ratio of 1/3 paper to 2/3 slip
use a stick with 3 equal markings
wanna know more? feel free to email me
Ro
from sunny Queensland (holidaying in Madison WI- where it is HOT) :)
At 04:46 PM 7/29/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Could someone please share a good paperclay recipe? I want to give
>it a try.
>
>Thank you.
>
>Vicki Cederquist
>www.paradisemall.com
>
Flowinby@aol.com on tue 7 sep 99
I am looking for some info on paperclay. Any workshops? Some feedback from
anyone with experience in it's use.
Is it available premixed?
Jean Lutz on wed 8 sep 99
I've been trying to work with paperclay. The clay was acquired from 2
different sources listed in Rossette Gaults book so I'm assuming the
problem isn't the clay. But I can't get it to stick to itself. Every seam
pops no matter how many times I repair it. I've even tried Lana Wilson's
Magic Water on it and it still splits. I'm just trying to join slabs.
What's the secret??
Jean Lutz
jlutz@azlink.com
"Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"
Morgan Britt on fri 10 sep 99
----- Original Message -----
From: Morgan Britt
To: Jean Lutz
Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: Paperclay
> Jean,
>
> The key to adhering is to take your dry pieces and soak the edges in water
> before joining. The wetter the better. You will hear the paper fibers
> sucking up the water. Then use thin coils to fill the joint, and I
usually
> dip the coils in slip and slap them on, blending well with my fingertips.
> If you blend onto any dry areas, they WILL crack. Use a spray bottle and
> thoroughly dampen any blend areas as well.
>
> Good luck,
> Morgan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jean Lutz
> Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 5:33 PM
> Subject: Paperclay
>
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I've been trying to work with paperclay. The clay was acquired from 2
> > different sources listed in Rossette Gaults book so I'm assuming the
> > problem isn't the clay. But I can't get it to stick to itself. Every
seam
> > pops no matter how many times I repair it. I've even tried Lana Wilson's
> > Magic Water on it and it still splits. I'm just trying to join slabs.
> > What's the secret??
> > Jean Lutz
> > jlutz@azlink.com
> >
> >
> > "Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"
> >
>
Morgan Britt on fri 10 sep 99
I use the commercial from IMCO. I'm using it for figurative sculpture,
mainly because I CAN join wet to dry and change positions of the figure just
by dunking the whole piece in a bucket of water for about 5 minutes and then
go. It's actually easier for me to join wet to dry than wet to wet, though
wet to wet will work if you score and slip heavily, and try to have an angle
rather than a straight edge. That way you can get good pressure from both
sides. The key to joining is to make it as wet and sloppy as possible and
press as hard as you can. I've even repaired wet to bisque, though it's
dicey. If you have any other questions, try emailing Rosette Gault. Her
website is www.paperclayart.com and her email address is there. She's very
helpful when you can catch her, or feel free to ask me and I'll help where I
can. What are you using the pclay for?
----- Original Message -----
From: Jean Lutz
To: Morgan Britt
Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Paperclay
> Morgan,
> Thanks for your reply. I do what you suggest when trying to add to dry
> pieces. But I'm have more problems when trying to joing pieces of like
> dampness. I score, slip and use coils. Still even before it starts to dry
> it splits.
> Have you used the commercially prepared clay or do you make your own?
>
>
> At 07:41 AM 9/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >Jean,
> >
> >The key to adhering is to take your dry pieces and soak the edges in
water
> >before joining. The wetter the better. You will hear the paper fibers
> >sucking up the water. Then use thin coils to fill the joint, and I
usually
> >dip the coils in slip and slap them on, blending well with my fingertips.
> >If you blend onto any dry areas, they WILL crack. Use a spray bottle and
> >thoroughly dampen any blend areas as well.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Morgan
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Jean Lutz
> >Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 5:33 PM
> >Subject: Paperclay
> >
> >
> >> ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> >> I've been trying to work with paperclay. The clay was acquired from 2
> >> different sources listed in Rossette Gaults book so I'm assuming the
> >> problem isn't the clay. But I can't get it to stick to itself. Every
seam
> >> pops no matter how many times I repair it. I've even tried Lana
Wilson's
> >> Magic Water on it and it still splits. I'm just trying to join slabs.
> >> What's the secret??
> >> Jean Lutz
> >> jlutz@azlink.com
> >>
> >>
> >> "Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"
> >>
> >
> >
> Jean Lutz
> jlutz@azlink.com
>
>
> "Despite the cost of living, it remains popular"
>
Cynthia Aldrich on tue 23 jan 01
I have looked at the archives regarding paperclay but do not see an
answer to my question. I would like to use a red and a white
earthenware paperclay for large sculpture and scultural wall tiles. I
have noticed that commercially available paperclay (Axner) has 10% paper
in it. Is this enough to get the advantages of a lighter fired body -
or would 30-40% be better? What about workability at these higher
percentages? - these will be hand built pieces. If I want to make my
own paperclay can anyone suggest good recipes for a red and a white
earthenware body for paperclay that they have used. Thanks for the
help.
Cynthia Aldrich
aldric3@attglobal.net
Marcia Selsor on wed 24 jan 01
Cynthia,
I use paperclay earthenware and raku. I mix it in a soldner mixer after
making the pulp in a homemade pulp blender similar to those you see in
art catalogs. Just use your regular recipe and add the pulp by volume to
the batch. I screen it, then put it into the mixer into water then add
the dry mix. I vary my clay bodies regularly But 25%of pulp is all the
further I go. It does make it lighter, much lighter.
Marcia
Cynthia Aldrich wrote:
>
> I have looked at the archives regarding paperclay but do not see an
> answer to my question. I would like to use a red and a white
> earthenware paperclay for large sculpture and scultural wall tiles. I
> have noticed that commercially available paperclay (Axner) has 10% paper
> in it. Is this enough to get the advantages of a lighter fired body -
> or would 30-40% be better? What about workability at these higher
> percentages? - these will be hand built pieces. If I want to make my
> own paperclay can anyone suggest good recipes for a red and a white
> earthenware body for paperclay that they have used. Thanks for the
> help.
> Cynthia Aldrich
> aldric3@attglobal.net
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
Dannon Rhudy on wed 24 jan 01
At 09:05 PM 1/23/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I have looked at the archives regarding paperclay but do not see an
>answer to my question. I would like to use a red and a white
earthenware paperclay........
You can make your own, if you like. You can use any clay
body, and just add the paper to it. It will be somewhat
lighter than non-paper clay after firing. If 10% paper
went in and burns out, then it'll be 10% lighter, eh? The
big advantage is that you can make things THINNER using
paperclay, and save a lot of weight in that way.
There should be a ton of this information in the archives,
since it has come up numerous times here. Briefly: if you
have a Soldner clay mixer, you can make your usual clay body,
add shredded paper (newspaper, shredded stuff the banks throw
out, etc) while it is mixing, and it is a very simple procedure.
There are more complex ones, but they aren't really necessary.
If you don't have a mixer, you can make paperclay in slip
form and dry it out. In that instance, you will need to
make a slurry of the paper pulp and add it to your clay.
I would suggest that you get some paperclay from a commercial
source and TRY it, see if you like it. The drawback is in
carving - the fibers collect on the edge of your tools. Need
constant cleaning. If you are press-molding your tiles, then
it should not be a problem.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Snail Scott on wed 24 jan 01
At 09:05 PM 1/23/01 -0500, you wrote:
I
>have noticed that commercially available paperclay (Axner) has 10% paper
>in it. Is this enough to get the advantages of a lighter fired body -
>or would 30-40% be better? What about workability at these higher
>percentages? - these will be hand built pieces.
>Cynthia Aldrich
I tried mixes of around 40% paper. (At least
I think it was; I added the paper while still
wet, so I coudn't measure the actual fiber
content. It may have been more!
It was rather strange. Slabs were amazingly
durable, but joining required vigorous
scoring, and wouldn't stick together with
normal luting methods - the fibers had to
acually mesh. (Not enough clay, I figure.)
Slab was the only really viable working method.
Coil, pinch, and throwing were right out!
Press-molding worked divinely.
It was difficult to cut, and almost impossible
to scrape or incise.
It dried very slowly.
Due to the strength of the slabs, I tended to
make them too thin, which was fine while green,
but made for fragile fired work. It weighed next
to nothing, though!
My source of fiber was old newspapers, and I
wonder if the wood ash may have fluxed my
clay body. I added it to my groggy ^5 body,
but got severe warping of the larger work
at only ^2. The excessive thinness may have
contributed, so I can't be certain. (I have
never heard that cotton linter makes a fluxing
ash, but I've never tested it!) The fluxing
(if any) may not be relevant if you're doing
earthenware. I don't know.
-Snail
Linda Blossom on wed 24 jan 01
I found some of the information about paper clay interesting, especially
since some is in contradiction to my own experience. I use it in plastic
clay, not slip.
Regarding percentages, I use 25% by volume. It is important that this be
noted that it is not by weight.
Like Dannon, I add the paper directly to the clay ingredients; I don't
bother to mix or pulp it and it mixes in just fine.
I use it for everything I make, but I do not throw. I have extruded it;
used it in slabs, and coiled and pinched it. I have no trouble joining it,
cutting, or doing any kind of incising or detail work. I also use a cross
cut shredder which gives much shorter fibers so I rarely have it
accumulating much on my tools like happened before I used the cross cut
paper.
I have made pedestals over a form and have found that the wet strength makes
it possible to make a tall form that doesn't sag like grogged clay does. I
make sinks using it and tiles and have dropped very small, thin tiles and
had them receive a dent to a corner. You have to try to break a piece of
greenware.
I disagree about it being especially porous because after dropping the grog
from my clay as an experiment, I did the tests to determine porosity and
absorption and found the body to be too tight for freeze thaw work which
requires a certain amount of porosity. The fibers are like tiny hairs, so I
suppose that after they burn out early in the firing, the clay shrinks
around where they were leaving a very tight clay body. Unscientific
hypothesis perhaps.
I also have never had the odor problem that I have heard about. Maybe
because I use office paper. I have stored it for months at a time and never
smelled a thing.
Linda Blossom
Ithaca, NY
Russel Fouts on thu 25 jan 01
Cynthia,
>> I have looked at the archives regarding paperclay but do not see an
answer to my question. I would like to use a red and a white earthenware
paperclay for large sculpture and scultural wall tiles. I have noticed that
commercially available paperclay (Axner) has 10% paper in it. Is this
enough to get the advantages of a lighter fired body - or would 30-40% be
better? What about workability at these higher percentages? - these will be
hand built pieces. If I want to make my own paperclay can anyone suggest
good recipes for a red and a white earthenware body for paperclay that they
have used.
30 - 40% will be fine for hand building. The paper will make the clay
stiffer and it will actually support itself earlier. The more paper fiber,
the stronger and stiffer the paperclay will be and the lighter the fired
product will be.
My receipe for paper clay is:
- Add 3-4 rolls of cheap toilet paper to 10 litres of warm water
- Mix until it looks like thin oatmeal
- Take whatever body you're using, plastic, slip or bone dry and
Either: If it's dry or plastic add it to the paper clay water and mix until
it's as thick as you want it.
Or: strain the pulp a little and mix it, bit by bit, into the slip.
You can use the paperclay slip as is, or dewater it to a plastic or even dry
state.
If disolve a couple crystals of Thymol in a little bit of hot water (don't
breath the fumes) and mix this into the paper clay water before you add the
paper, it will go a long way to retarding the growth of molds and stinky
paper clay.
Your clay as paperclay will be lighter than your normal body but will also
be weaker. You have to fire it a bit higher than you normally would. If you
fire a bit of the clay at your normal temperature, you'll see the color
difference and understand what I mean.
Rosette Gault's book is an excellent resource.
Good luck
Russel (giving a paperclay workshop for Christian Zeghers in Leuven next
weekend)
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
http://www.Japan-Net.ne.jp/~iwcat
Vicki Conley on thu 25 jan 01
Dear Cynthia, I can't help you with percentages for sculpture but I've
found the best paper as far as breaking down and pulping up fast is blotter
paper. Tear it up in hot water, mix with drill mixer and let sit overnight.
To get it even finer put it through the blender before seiving.
Vicki Conley
vicki@pinonpottery.com
www.pinonpottery.com
Marcia Selsor on thu 25 jan 01
Dear Linda,
My husband just got a cross cut shredder for all the office papers.
That is great news. I was hoping to use it. I have been mixing pulp,
straining it to "eyeball" volume. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Marcia
Linda Blossom wrote:
>
> I found some of the information about paper clay interesting, especially
> since some is in contradiction to my own experience. I use it in plastic
> clay, not slip.
>
> Regarding percentages, I use 25% by volume. It is important that this be
> noted that it is not by weight.
>
> Like Dannon, I add the paper directly to the clay ingredients; I don't
> bother to mix or pulp it and it mixes in just fine.
>
> I use it for everything I make, but I do not throw. I have extruded it;
> used it in slabs, and coiled and pinched it. I have no trouble joining it,
> cutting, or doing any kind of incising or detail work. I also use a cross
> cut shredder which gives much shorter fibers so I rarely have it
> accumulating much on my tools like happened before I used the cross cut
> paper.
>
> I have made pedestals over a form and have found that the wet strength makes
> it possible to make a tall form that doesn't sag like grogged clay does. I
> make sinks using it and tiles and have dropped very small, thin tiles and
> had them receive a dent to a corner. You have to try to break a piece of
> greenware.
>
> I disagree about it being especially porous because after dropping the grog
> from my clay as an experiment, I did the tests to determine porosity and
> absorption and found the body to be too tight for freeze thaw work which
> requires a certain amount of porosity. The fibers are like tiny hairs, so I
> suppose that after they burn out early in the firing, the clay shrinks
> around where they were leaving a very tight clay body. Unscientific
> hypothesis perhaps.
>
> I also have never had the odor problem that I have heard about. Maybe
> because I use office paper. I have stored it for months at a time and never
> smelled a thing.
>
> Linda Blossom
> Ithaca, NY
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
Russel Fouts on fri 26 jan 01
Will,
>> How much clay do you use in your recipe? <<
Depends ;-)
I like my paperclay at around 20% paper, so 80% (by volumn) is clay. It
really isn't a matter of science but a matter of feel (and DON'T get hung up
on exact percentages!). Some like less paper some like a lot more. You can
feel and see the difference when mixing and using the clay. Start with about
20% and see what works best for you. The more paper you add, the less clay
like and more paper like the mixture becomes.
Less paper = less light, more workable, sticks together better, more clay
like texture, more shrinkage (but already less than normal clay), less green
strength (but already more than with normal clay), could maybe even through
it.
More paper = stiffer, sticks together less well, more paper like texture,
more green strength, less shrinkage.
It handles different as well. I'd never pinched it until last night and it
really brought this home. It's great to pinch but you have to pinch in a
whole different way. Sliding strokes work better and are a whole lot less
work than straight pinching. Paperclay seems to have a greater resistance to
compression than normal clay.
The experts say that 40 - 50% is about the limit but, inevitably, experts
and limits will be ignored and creativity and discovery will happen. ;-)
Russel (Brussels Chapter of the Flat Earth Society)
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
http://www.Japan-Net.ne.jp/~iwcat
Matthew Cope on sun 28 jan 01
Dear Russel Fouts,
I agree most of your comment. However, I have to disagree about two points:
1. You wrote: Less paper=more shrinkage, More paper=less shrinkage
I think it is the other way round:More paper=bigger shrinkage.
2. You wrote:Less paper, sticks together better
I think it depends on the stage of dryness of clay. If a piece is bone
dry and you want to attach a wet piece, more paper sticks better.
Mitsuru Cope
mitsuru@mitsurucope.com
PS.I can receive e-mail at my address above, but I often cannot send out
messages, so I have to use other e-mail address.
TONICLAYS@AOL.COM on fri 25 jan 02
Dear Dale, the Gault book is very helpful. I mostly throw on the wheel, but
I did experiment mixing toilet paper with white stoneware #182. Used this
for handbuilding or additions to wheel thrown pieces. Works very well. Its a
fun process. I made a couple of wall plaques and they definitely were lighter
in weight with the paper clay. Its also very strong with the paper fiber in
it compared to the workablility of the stoneware. For example, I rolled out
some long coils to see how strong it would be.....made a very thin coil
probably three feet long....could lift it up and work with it and it didn't
break. Holds textures well too. I guess different types of fiber can give
you different results with textures too. Have fun with it. I plan to try it
again. Toni Smith , in SUNNY Ohio.:)
Leland G. Hall on thu 4 jul 02
Thanks Jim, and others with comments regarding paper clay. Lots of info in
Archives too. I dissolved 4 rolls of TP in boiling water yesterday, then
tried the blender too. Ozone has a peculiar odor eh? Problem for me was
that the pulp did not really look any less chunky after blending. Tried
turbo mixer on drill too. Still seems too chunky. I can't dink around
forever trying to get a tryptich done for this customer, (though I did tell
the gallery it MIGHT be ready by fall) so ordered 100 lbs. of IMMCO paper
clay from Portland supplier. Will experiment with pulp later. So how DOES
one get the pulp chopped up fine enough? Does newsprint create this
problem? Would love to get my hands on some of the books by Roseanne
Gault, but I'm overextended with the order for the new wheel from Axner.
(which is another story in itself) Happy Independence Day Americans!! Be
carefull out there! Leland Hall, in La Pine Oregon, Where one stray
bottle rocket would burn the basin to the ground.
Richard Jeffery on thu 4 jul 02
i usually put the rolls through the bandsaw to cut them up, then leave them
to soak in a bucket of water for 4-5 days - this lets the fibres start to
break apart on their own , before i start churning it up with a paint mixer.
i don't suppose i get a perfectly consistent result, but it seems to work
OK. even toilet paper is tough, and needs time to really start to fall
apart.
Richard Jeffery
Web Design and Photography
www.theeleventhweb.co.uk
Bournemouth UK
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Leland G. Hall
Sent: 04 July 2002 15:10
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: paperclay
Thanks Jim, and others with comments regarding paper clay. Lots of info in
Archives too. I dissolved 4 rolls of TP in boiling water yesterday, then
tried the blender too. Ozone has a peculiar odor eh? Problem for me was
that the pulp did not really look any less chunky after blending. Tried
turbo mixer on drill too. Still seems too chunky. I can't dink around
forever trying to get a tryptich done for this customer, (though I did tell
the gallery it MIGHT be ready by fall) so ordered 100 lbs. of IMMCO paper
clay from Portland supplier. Will experiment with pulp later. So how DOES
one get the pulp chopped up fine enough? Does newsprint create this
problem? Would love to get my hands on some of the books by Roseanne
Gault, but I'm overextended with the order for the new wheel from Axner.
(which is another story in itself) Happy Independence Day Americans!! Be
carefull out there! Leland Hall, in La Pine Oregon, Where one stray
bottle rocket would burn the basin to the ground.
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman on thu 4 jul 02
You can buy paper linters separately. I believe Mile Hi in Denver sells
them, and I would expect that other places do, too. All you need to do with
them is soak them-- they're shredded-- and add them to your clay. I do it in
my Peter Pugger. I like the idea of being able to use my normal clay,
because it means that my glazes will fit the same way they do when I use
clay without paper.
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland G. Hall"
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: paperclay
> Thanks Jim, and others with comments regarding paper clay. Lots of info
in
> Archives too. I dissolved 4 rolls of TP in boiling water yesterday, then
> tried the blender too. Ozone has a peculiar odor eh? Problem for me was
> that the pulp did not really look any less chunky after blending. Tried
> turbo mixer on drill too. Still seems too chunky. I can't dink around
> forever trying to get a tryptich done for this customer, (though I did
tell
> the gallery it MIGHT be ready by fall) so ordered 100 lbs. of IMMCO paper
> clay from Portland supplier. Will experiment with pulp later. So how
DOES
> one get the pulp chopped up fine enough? Does newsprint create this
> problem? Would love to get my hands on some of the books by Roseanne
> Gault, but I'm overextended with the order for the new wheel from Axner.
> (which is another story in itself) Happy Independence Day Americans!!
Be
> carefull out there! Leland Hall, in La Pine Oregon, Where one stray
> bottle rocket would burn the basin to the ground.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Ababi on fri 5 jul 02
Looks like a good idea
of course in my climate I should add a few drops of Chlorine liquid to the water. Once
I added soap to the water before the chopping. It kind of oiling the paper and helps to
the longer life of the life of the drill
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>i usually put the rolls through the bandsaw to cut them up, then leave them
>to soak in a bucket of water for 4-5 days - this lets the fibres start to
>break apart on their own , before i start churning it up with a paint mixer.
>i don't suppose i get a perfectly consistent result, but it seems to work
>OK. even toilet paper is tough, and needs time to really start to fall
>apart.
>Richard Jeffery
>Web Design and Photography
>www.theeleventhweb.co.uk
>Bournemouth UK
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
>Behalf Of Leland G. Hall
>Sent: 04 July 2002 15:10
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: paperclay
>Thanks Jim, and others with comments regarding paper clay. Lots of info in
>Archives too. I dissolved 4 rolls of TP in boiling water yesterday, then
>tried the blender too. Ozone has a peculiar odor eh? Problem for me was
>that the pulp did not really look any less chunky after blending. Tried
>turbo mixer on drill too. Still seems too chunky. I can't dink around
>forever trying to get a tryptich done for this customer, (though I did tell
>the gallery it MIGHT be ready by fall) so ordered 100 lbs. of IMMCO paper
>clay from Portland supplier. Will experiment with pulp later. So how DOES
>one get the pulp chopped up fine enough? Does newsprint create this
>problem? Would love to get my hands on some of the books by Roseanne
>Gault, but I'm overextended with the order for the new wheel from Axner.
>(which is another story in itself) Happy Independence Day Americans!! Be
>carefull out there! Leland Hall, in La Pine Oregon, Where one stray
>bottle rocket would burn the basin to the ground.
>____________________________________________________________________________
>__
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Nita on fri 5 jul 02
I use old newspaper, blended, then add dried clay scraps and let it all soak
overnight, then I use my drill mixer (paint mixing bit from Home Depot).
Then I lay it all out to dry on the wedging board or on canvas. Eventually
I wedge it a bit and start building. The clay scraps seem to mix better if I
let it dry completely. TP does NOT work for me - it seems to clump
together. Nita
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland G. Hall"
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: paperclay
> Thanks Jim, and others with comments regarding paper clay. Lots of info
in
> Archives too. I dissolved 4 rolls of TP in boiling water yesterday, then
> tried the blender too. Ozone has a peculiar odor eh? Problem for me was
> that the pulp did not really look any less chunky after blending. Tried
> turbo mixer on drill too. Still seems too chunky. I can't dink around
> forever trying to get a tryptich done for this customer, (though I did
tell
> the gallery it MIGHT be ready by fall) so ordered 100 lbs. of IMMCO paper
> clay from Portland supplier. Will experiment with pulp later. So how
DOES
> one get the pulp chopped up fine enough? Does newsprint create this
> problem? Would love to get my hands on some of the books by Roseanne
> Gault, but I'm overextended with the order for the new wheel from Axner.
> (which is another story in itself) Happy Independence Day Americans!!
Be
> carefull out there! Leland Hall, in La Pine Oregon, Where one stray
> bottle rocket would burn the basin to the ground.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Millie Carpenter on fri 5 jul 02
the one most important thing when chopping paper in a blender is to
have a quarter cup of fiber in a full quart of water in the blender. if
you don't two things happen, the first is that the paper doesn't get
enough movement in the water to get it to the blades and it becomes sort
of like a pudding consistancy which causes the second thing, the motor
will get overheated because the paper is too heavy to move and the
blender will die a noisy death. When I worked with kids with papermaking
I would usually loose one blender a semester, I buy them at yard sales.
When I did this with the drill and glaze mixer, the best ratio for me
was 1 single roll of cheap TP in a 5 gallon bucket with 4 and a half
gallons of water. take some old window screen and staple it in a frame,
balance this on another 5 gallon bucket, pour the slurry through it and
it is good to go.
Millie in Md. the humidity and heat are back to normal. and I will go
back to the Silkroad in DC tomorrow, this will be my third trip and I
have still got a lot I want to see.
Leland G. Hall wrote:
>Thanks Jim, and others with comments regarding paper clay. Lots of info in
>Archives too. I dissolved 4 rolls of TP in boiling water yesterday, then
>tried the blender too. Ozone has a peculiar odor eh? Problem for me was
>that the pulp did not really look any less chunky after blending. Tried
>turbo mixer on drill too. Still seems too chunky. I
>
>
Donna Hoff-Grambau on wed 7 apr 04
New clay related group: PAPERCLAY
Group name: paperclay
Group home page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/paperclay
Group email address: paperclay@yahoogroups.com
"Things are only impossible until they're not."
--Jean-Luc Picard
Star Trek: The Next Generation
Donna Hoff-Grambau
Two Rivers Pottery
| |
|
