Alyss Dorese on thu 28 mar 96
You wrote:
>
>----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
>This paper clay sounds facinating. Do you have a recipe for making
it?
>I would appreciate such information. Is it lighter when fired (it is
>fired, I assume)?
>Ellen in the desert - perfect weather now 75 daytime 45 nighttime.
>
>On Mon, 25 Mar 1996, Alyss Dorese wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
>> You wrote:
>> >
>> >----------------------------Original
>> message----------------------------
>> >My friend works in paperclay and is getting ready for a wokshop she
>> will be
>> >teaching soon. Anyone out there working in paperclay in new and
>> strange
>> >ways? Would you like to share your expertise and knowledge?
>> >Thanks.
>> >
>> >Eveline
>>
>> I have been using paperclay in my ceramic sculptures for more than
two
>> years. Either exclusively or in repair or as a bonding of greenware
or
>> bisqueware. I throw pots, reshape and connect them to make 3 to 4
foot
>> whimsical animals. I live in the desert and unfortunately, often my
>> clay pots are too dry to bond together. Using slip made of
paperclay,
>> solves the problem of the clay separating. I also have used
paperclay
>> slip to sculpt, then shape and sand. On occasion, I have had
partial
>> blow-up of pieces and I have been able to repair them utilizing
>> paperclay on bisque pieces. Both by using as a bonding or
resculpting
>> the area. Throwing with paperclay is difficult. But slab rolling
>> works well. The advantage of having a greenware sculpture that you
can
>> alter is the biggest advantage. This works for me because of the
>> dryness of the desert and the fact that there are times when I don't
>> get to work on my pieces for many weeks in between. I now find that
I
>> needn't be as concerned about damproom practices. When I sculpt
solely
>> with paperclay, I am able to leave my work uncovered and merely wet
>> down the areas that I am working on without any negative results.
>>
>> Good luck
>>
>> Alyss
>>
>>
>> >For all those who are interested in the Paperclay formula I am
using.
For the last three years, we have been experimenting with paperclay at
the College of the Desert, under the tutelage of Professor Ron Evans.
Professor Evans deserves a dialogue onto himself as he personifies what
the ideal teacher is--but I'll leave that for another time.
We originally used Lintel paper --tearing it up and making it into
paper pulp, much the same way as making paper. Mixing 1 sheet of hand
torn paper lintel with water and mixing it in a large vat or 5 gallon
bucket with a drywall drill or household blender, until we had paper
fiber. In another 5 gallon bucket we cut up = bag of a 25lb of mixed
clay. We use Laguna Clays. Stoneware and Porcelains. We made slip
out of the 12 = lbs of clay. We mixed the paper fiber and clay slip
together and let stand for 24 hours. After which we lay the slip on
newspaper or other absorbent material. I use cut up linen sheets on
top of newspaper. We let dry until workable and wedge.
In experimenting, we decided to substitute toilet tissue for the Lintel
paper. Cheaper and more accessible. I use three rolls of toilet
tissue, which I unwind and tear up. (Not a bad task, while watching TV
late at nite.) I add water and mix with a glaze mixer attached to my
drill (or you could use a household blender, mixing in small batches).
When the mixture is fiberous, I add it to a 25lb bag of wet clay that
has been made into slip the previous night. Again, I make the clay
slip by cutting up small pieces of clay with my wire and dropping them
into a 5 gallon and adding water. Within 24 hours, I have slip. I mix
the drained fiberous paper and slip together. Let stand 24 hours.
Then I either dry on concrete or onto of linen on top of newpaper. Or
I use the clay in its slip form-- and keep it in the 5 gallon
bucket.The slip dries very quickly. If I am in a hurry, I dry as I
work with a hair dryer. If I use the clay as a slip I add = cup chlorox
to prevent it from mold. If it starts to turn black or smell, I add
another half cup of chlorox or household bleach. If the mixture dries
out, I just add water. If the piece I am working on dries out, I rewet
the areas I am working on with a sponge or paint brush using water
only. I bond using water to wet the area, then score, and use the
paper clay slip. I find no difference in the amount of water I use. I
fire paperclay the same way I fire other greenware pieces. The pieces
are lighter. Wonderful for bas reliefs and cuts shipping costs. I
glaze the same way I glaze my other pieces. I have gone up to ^10
reduction firings.I use Laguna Death Valley Clay for my sculptures. I
have used Laguna Porcelain, B-Mix, Rod Bod, Soldate = all ^10 clays.
Beside the difficulties with throwing--not being able to get a smooth
lip--I find working with molds or slip casting there is shrinkage. But
with experience working with paperclay, these drawback can be
compensated for. Imagine a bas relief 1/4" thick having the same
strength as a thicker clay sculpture and being half the weight.
Good luck and I would enjoy hearing feedback.
Alyss Dorese
>>
>
Myrna Figueiredo on fri 17 aug 07
refering to paper clay and its peculiar smell, did anybody tried anything
else other than Chlorox to eliminate it.
i find chlorine to be a bit too harsh, specially if i have to handle the
mixture afterwords.
did anybody ever tried to sprinkle baking soda... it does get rid of the
smell, but my question is, when fired does the salt in the 'recipe' ruins
the bisque or what? suggestions?
thanks!
myrna figueiredo
orange - new jersey
"...If I use the clay as a slip I add = cup chlorox
to prevent it from mold. If it starts to turn black or smell, I add
another half cup of chlorox or household bleach. If the mixture dries
out, I just add water. If the piece I am working on dries out, I rewet
the areas I am working on with a sponge or paint brush using water
only. I bond using water to wet the area, then score, and use the
paper clay slip. I find no difference in the amount of water I use. I
fire paperclay the same way I fire other greenware pieces. The pieces
are lighter. Wonderful for bas reliefs and cuts shipping costs. I
glaze the same way I glaze my other pieces. I have gone up to ^10
reduction firings.I use Laguna Death Valley Clay for my sculptures. I
have used Laguna Porcelain, B-Mix, Rod Bod, Soldate = all ^10 clays.
Beside the difficulties with throwing--not being able to get a smooth
lip--I find working with molds or slip casting there is shrinkage. But
with experience working with paperclay, these drawback can be
compensated for. Imagine a bas relief 1/4" thick having the same
strength as a thicker clay sculpture and being half the weight.
Good luck and I would enjoy hearing feedback.
Alyss Dorese
>>
John Rodgers on fri 17 aug 07
I use paper clay made from a variety of clay bodies. I have tried
chlorox, peroxide, Shaklee wetting and cleaning agents, but the only
thing I have have found that really and truly works long term is to put
the clay in a sealable container, and store it in the refrigerator until
needed.
I make no attempt to make a slip out of my paper clay, but instead make
a very stiff or a very soft paste, depending on my need. In my case I
only use paper clay as a "glue" for attachments or to patch holes and
cracks in greenware.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Myrna Figueiredo wrote:
> refering to paper clay and its peculiar smell, did anybody tried anything
> else other than Chlorox to eliminate it.
> i find chlorine to be a bit too harsh, specially if i have to handle the
> mixture afterwords.
> did anybody ever tried to sprinkle baking soda... it does get rid of the
> smell, but my question is, when fired does the salt in the 'recipe' ruins
> the bisque or what? suggestions?
>
> thanks!
> myrna figueiredo
> orange - new jersey
>
> "...If I use the clay as a slip I add = cup chlorox
> to prevent it from mold. If it starts to turn black or smell, I add
> another half cup of chlorox or household bleach. If the mixture dries
> out, I just add water. If the piece I am working on dries out, I rewet
> the areas I am working on with a sponge or paint brush using water
> only. I bond using water to wet the area, then score, and use the
> paper clay slip. I find no difference in the amount of water I use. I
> fire paperclay the same way I fire other greenware pieces. The pieces
> are lighter. Wonderful for bas reliefs and cuts shipping costs. I
> glaze the same way I glaze my other pieces. I have gone up to ^10
> reduction firings.I use Laguna Death Valley Clay for my sculptures. I
> have used Laguna Porcelain, B-Mix, Rod Bod, Soldate = all ^10 clays.
>
> Beside the difficulties with throwing--not being able to get a smooth
> lip--I find working with molds or slip casting there is shrinkage. But
> with experience working with paperclay, these drawback can be
> compensated for. Imagine a bas relief 1/4" thick having the same
> strength as a thicker clay sculpture and being half the weight.
>
> Good luck and I would enjoy hearing feedback.
> Alyss Dorese
>
>
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>
Chris Campbell on sat 18 aug 07
> ... If it starts to turn black or smell,
> I add another half cup of chlorox
> or household bleach.
You do not need to use those huge
quantities of bleach. I add one Tbsp.
to a batch and it keeps it clean ...
after a time I might need to add a touch
more, but never that much!
If all you want paper clay for is repairs or
small projects a good trick is to roll it
into sheets and let it air dry.
Just add water when you need some.
That way there is no problem at all
with smell or rotting fibres.
A great source for paperclay info is Graham Hay
who presented at NCECA this year ...
http://www.grahamhay.com.au/
Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
Chris Campbell Pottery LLC
9417 Koupela Drive
Raleigh NC 27615-2233
Designs in Colored Porcelain
1-800-652-1008
Fax : 919-676-2062
website: www.ccpottery.com
wholesale : www.wholesalecrafts.com
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