James Dapogny on wed 11 sep 96
Speaking of pincholes and pits and craters...
Our potters' guild (which meets next weekend --1 of 5 meetings a year) will
be asking me to explain why I favor raising our bisque firing temp to 07
(from 08). At one time a few years ago, we were firing to 09, and a couple
of us were persuasive in raising it to 08. We had been having pits all
over the place in the glaze firings, and had read (are still reading) that
the first thing to do is to raise the bisque temp. It helped. But we still
have too many pits, even if they have diminished somewhat. They occur in a
variety of glazes, some shiny, some matte, some have rutile, but a number
do not. There does not seem to be a discernible common denominator.
Everything I read and anyone I've spoken to (Robin Hopper, and others)
suggest that typical and ideal bisque temp is 06 or 07, 08 at the very
lowest, so we seem to be at the light end.
To explain further: We soak in the bisque firing (yes, in the bisque) at
about 1450 -1480 f.to help the carbons burn off, (this helped too), then
regular turnups after 1500, and we turn it off when 08 is over.
For our glaze firing, in our large,communal gas kiln ( JT Abernathy-built,
down-draft), we start body reduction at a little after 014, keeping the
flame VERY light and letting it increase just a bit through to the end. It
never (well, almost never) gets very heavy. We soak when cone 9 is half
over for an hour to an hour and a half, turning the kiln off when cone 10
is half over.
There is resistance within the group to our increasing the bisque temp
because of the increase of the brittleness of the ware; I really favor
increasing, both because the last increase in temp helped, and because I
keep reading and hearing that it would help. It's always hard to bring
about change in a group, even small changes! People and books suggest going
to 06 but I am suggesting 07 as a compromise Because we are a teaching
organization, we have students (who don't know enough to protest) and I
notice that they too are getting a lot of pits. I think our bisque is
"processed" pretty quickly, and all or almost all of us clean it off before
glazing.
One last thing: we have 3 clay bodies: white stoneware (with about 8% fine
grog) and darker stoneware (10 % fine grog) and a porcelain. The problem
occurs more in the stonewares, especially but by no means exclusively in
the darker body.
I'd love to have your collective and individual opinions.It's been driving
me nuts! Thanks for anything.
Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, Michigan (ah, autumn at last!)
James Dapogny on wed 11 sep 96
SPEAKING OF PINHOLES AND PITS....
Our potters' guild (which meets next weekend --1 of 5 meetings a year) will
be asking me to explain why I favor raising our bisque firing temp to 07
(from 08). At one time a few years ago, we were firing to 09, and a couple
of us were persuasive in raising it to 08. We had been having pits all
over the place in the glaze firings, and had read (are still reading) that
the first thing to do is to raise the bisque temp. It helped. But we still
have too many pits, even if they have diminished somewhat. They occur in a
variety of glazes, some shiny, some matte, some have rutile, but a number
do not. There does not seem to be a discernible common denominator.
Everything I read and anyone I've spoken to (Robin Hopper, and others)
suggest that typical and ideal bisque temp is 06 or 07, 08 at the very
lowest, so we seem to be at the light end.
To explain further: We soak in the bisque firing (yes, in the bisque) at
about 1450 -1480 f.to help the carbons burn off, (this helped too), then
regular turnups after 1500, and we turn it off when 08 is over.
For our glaze firing, in our large,communal gas kiln ( JT Abernathy-built,
down-draft), we start body reduction at a little after 014, keeping the
flame VERY light and letting it increase just a bit through to the end. It
never (well, almost never) gets very heavy. We soak when cone 9 is half
over for an hour to an hour and a half, turning the kiln off when cone 10
is half over.
There is resistance within the group to our increasing the bisque temp
because of the increase of the brittleness of the ware; I really favor
increasing, both because the last increase in temp helped, and because I
keep reading and hearing that it would help. It's always hard to bring
about change in a group, even small changes! People and books suggest going
to 06 but I am suggesting 07 as a compromise Because we are a teaching
organization, we have students (who don't know enough to protest) and I
notice that they too are getting a lot of pits. I think our bisque is
"processed" pretty quickly, and all or almost all of us clean it off before
glazing.
One last thing: we have 3 clay bodies: white stoneware (with about 8% fine
grog) and darker stoneware (10 % fine grog) and a porcelain. The problem
occurs more in the stonewares, especially but by no means exclusively in
the darker body.
I'd love to have your collective and individual opinions.It's been driving
me nuts! Thanks for anything.
Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, Michigan (ah, autumn at last!)
Cathy Nelson Hartman on wed 11 sep 96
Concerning the pits/craters in the glaze problem and suggestions about the
bisque temperature. Craters in the finished glaze are caused by gassing at
the glaze temperature, i.e., by materials that are still present at the
maturation temp. So the bisque temperature is irrelevant to this problem.
Look for contaminants in your clay that would be vaporizing at your
glaze temperature. My favorite is the common iron/sulphur compound iron
pyrite.
Pin holes could be a bisque related problem I suppose IF the surface has
only pin holes(healing craters) and no new craters. Something gassed early
and was healing but not quite finished. This theory would hold only for
very non fluid glazes probably, considering the big temperature difference
between bisque and glaze would have allowed all but the most non fluid
glazes to heal.
Walter Hartman full time studio potter since 1973
cone 10 porcelain
90% functional work
Hartman Pottery oxidation in gas kiln
1600 Willowwood sell all work at art fairs
Denton, TX 76205 work by myself
(817) 382-1083 BS in math('67);taught math 3 years
native Texan who doesn't own a gun
e-mail: cnh0002@jove.acs.unt.edu
Paula Coleman on wed 11 sep 96
>Our potters' guild (which meets next weekend --1 of 5 meetings a year) will
>be asking me to explain why I favor raising our bisque firing temp to 07
I raised my bisque temperature from 08 to 06 because of pitting problems.
No more pits! I also dampen my ware pretty heavily before glazing. This
seems to help as well. Good luck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Paula L. Coleman Email: potter@comcat.com
Ceramic Artist Web: http://www.comcat.com/~potter/
Bucks County, PA, USA
Beth Wheeler on wed 11 sep 96
Hello from the Potters Guild in Roswell, GA. We are bisquing to 04 and have
had very little pinholing problems in any of our subsequent firings whether
they be lowfire majolica or cone 10 stoneware or porcelain reduction
firings. The only time we bisque low 018 or 022 is when we are preparing
for a salt or terra sigillata sagar firing.
At 08:39 AM 9/11/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Speaking of pincholes and pits and craters...
>Our potters' guild (which meets next weekend --1 of 5 meetings a year) will
>be asking me to explain why I favor raising our bisque firing temp to 07
>(from 08). At one time a few years ago, we were firing to 09, and a couple
>of us were persuasive in raising it to 08. We had been having pits all
>over the place in the glaze firings, and had read (are still reading) that
>the first thing to do is to raise the bisque temp. It helped. But we still
>have too many pits, even if they have diminished somewhat. They occur in a
>variety of glazes, some shiny, some matte, some have rutile, but a number
>do not. There does not seem to be a discernible common denominator.
>Everything I read and anyone I've spoken to (Robin Hopper, and others)
>suggest that typical and ideal bisque temp is 06 or 07, 08 at the very
>lowest, so we seem to be at the light end.
>To explain further: We soak in the bisque firing (yes, in the bisque) at
>about 1450 -1480 f.to help the carbons burn off, (this helped too), then
>regular turnups after 1500, and we turn it off when 08 is over.
>For our glaze firing, in our large,communal gas kiln ( JT Abernathy-built,
>down-draft), we start body reduction at a little after 014, keeping the
>flame VERY light and letting it increase just a bit through to the end. It
>never (well, almost never) gets very heavy. We soak when cone 9 is half
>over for an hour to an hour and a half, turning the kiln off when cone 10
>is half over.
>
>There is resistance within the group to our increasing the bisque temp
>because of the increase of the brittleness of the ware; I really favor
>increasing, both because the last increase in temp helped, and because I
>keep reading and hearing that it would help. It's always hard to bring
>about change in a group, even small changes! People and books suggest going
>to 06 but I am suggesting 07 as a compromise Because we are a teaching
>organization, we have students (who don't know enough to protest) and I
>notice that they too are getting a lot of pits. I think our bisque is
>"processed" pretty quickly, and all or almost all of us clean it off before
>glazing.
>One last thing: we have 3 clay bodies: white stoneware (with about 8% fine
>grog) and darker stoneware (10 % fine grog) and a porcelain. The problem
>occurs more in the stonewares, especially but by no means exclusively in
>the darker body.
>
>I'd love to have your collective and individual opinions.It's been driving
>me nuts! Thanks for anything.
>Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, Michigan (ah, autumn at last!)
>
Arturo Devitalis on wed 11 sep 96
FYI there was recently a major problem with my clay supplier that related to
the grog he was getting from his suipplier. That has now cleared up and the
pinholes/blisters/etc have all but dissappeared. As you know, rutile glazes
are very "fussy" and are sensative to specific gravity (thickness), rate of
temp climb during glaze firing, etc.etc. Consider testing clay from another
supplier who uses a different grog source. You never know!
--
Arturo DeVitalis
arto@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
marilyn fenton on wed 11 sep 96
Try delaying body reduction until you reach your bisque
temp.
Talbott on wed 11 sep 96
James--I had the same problems --bisque to cone 06-05 and stay in OXIDATION
through the entire cycle so that you can get rid of carbonaceous (spelling)
materials--During the glaze fire --go slowly to about 650 celcius and soak
at peak (firing to cone 10 in about 16 hours or more) or rougly peak
temperature for about an hour and then go into heavy oxidation for 35
minutes or so before shuting down the kiln --on shut down close up
everything possible --damper port --burner ports --peeps--etc..for a SLOW
cool down..if this doesn't work then you have problems with clay bodies or
glaze composition---and FORGET about PUBLIC OPINION!!!!!
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Speaking of pincholes and pits and craters...
>Our potters' guild (which meets next weekend --1 of 5 meetings a year) will
>be asking me to explain why I favor raising our bisque firing temp to 07
>(from 08). At one time a few years ago, we were firing to 09, and a couple
>of us were persuasive in raising it to 08. We had been having pits all
>over the place in the glaze firings, and had read (are still reading) that
>the first thing to do is to raise the bisque temp. It helped. But we still
>have too many pits, even if they have diminished somewhat. They occur in a
>variety of glazes, some shiny, some matte, some have rutile, but a number
>do not. There does not seem to be a discernible common denominator.
>Everything I read and anyone I've spoken to (Robin Hopper, and others)
>suggest that typical and ideal bisque temp is 06 or 07, 08 at the very
>lowest, so we seem to be at the light end.
>To explain further: We soak in the bisque firing (yes, in the bisque) at
>about 1450 -1480 f.to help the carbons burn off, (this helped too), then
>regular turnups after 1500, and we turn it off when 08 is over.
>For our glaze firing, in our large,communal gas kiln ( JT Abernathy-built,
>down-draft), we start body reduction at a little after 014, keeping the
>flame VERY light and letting it increase just a bit through to the end. It
>never (well, almost never) gets very heavy. We soak when cone 9 is half
>over for an hour to an hour and a half, turning the kiln off when cone 10
>is half over.
>
>There is resistance within the group to our increasing the bisque temp
>because of the increase of the brittleness of the ware; I really favor
>increasing, both because the last increase in temp helped, and because I
>keep reading and hearing that it would help. It's always hard to bring
>about change in a group, even small changes! People and books suggest going
>to 06 but I am suggesting 07 as a compromise Because we are a teaching
>organization, we have students (who don't know enough to protest) and I
>notice that they too are getting a lot of pits. I think our bisque is
>"processed" pretty quickly, and all or almost all of us clean it off before
>glazing.
>One last thing: we have 3 clay bodies: white stoneware (with about 8% fine
>grog) and darker stoneware (10 % fine grog) and a porcelain. The problem
>occurs more in the stonewares, especially but by no means exclusively in
>the darker body.
>
>I'd love to have your collective and individual opinions.It's been driving
>me nuts! Thanks for anything.
>Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, Michigan (ah, autumn at last!)
ZALT@aol.com on wed 11 sep 96
Why don't you take the advice of the books that you have read. Don't you
believe the experience of Robbin Hopper?. You must try at least one time to
cone 06. I go to this temp and I have no problem with my work breaking.
Also I find that the work is more durable when handling and glazing. You
will probably have to adjust your SG when you change bisque temp.
Good Luck,
Terrance F. Lazaroff`
Montreal. Qc, Canada
Natalie Blake on thu 12 sep 96
Speaking of pinholes...I used to get pinholing before I started to
"burnish" the clay after I trim. Where do the majority of the pinholes
occur? If it is in the trimmed part of the pot, perhaps my solution could
be yours. If this is the case, simple wet the foot, etc. of the pot with a
sponge, and then rubber, or metal rib the area. A finger can work fine
also.
Since stonewares usually contain some grog, this may add to the fact that
you get worse pinholing in your stoneware bodies, instead of good ol' pure
vitreous porcelain...i.e. the grog creates tiny pits- especially after
trimming- that act as nice little craters that capture dust as well as
repel the glaze from the surface of the clay so as to create pockets of
air, probably, and therefore later in the firing, miniature gas
chambers....surface rupture, Spock...pinholing ahead.
One more note... since adopting the "burnishing" finish, I never experience
pinholing. I also happen to use a low-grog white stoneware which probably
helps. I bisque to 1300-1500 degrees depending on my mood!Why waste gas
going to 06?
NATALIA
Dave Murphy on thu 12 sep 96
------ =_NextPart_000_01BBA090.BB972440
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
----------
From: Beth Wheeler[SMTP:bwheeler@atl.mindspring.com]
Sent: September 11, 1996 1:53 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: pits and pinholes
Dear Gail:
I too am a member of a large guild so understand the
resistance to change thing. However, I have had
successful proposals accepted by doing change as
an experiement. Take your technical information to
the executive with a proposal to fix the problem, give a
time line ( 1 session of classes for eg.) that way everyone
saves face and the results speak for themselves. Good Luck!
Barb Murphy, Ontario Canada
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hello from the Potters Guild in Roswell, GA. We are bisquing to 04 and have
had very little pinholing problems in any of our subsequent firings whether
they be lowfire majolica or cone 10 stoneware or porcelain reduction
firings. The only time we bisque low 018 or 022 is when we are preparing
for a salt or terra sigillata sagar firing.
At 08:39 AM 9/11/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Speaking of pincholes and pits and craters...
>Our potters' guild (which meets next weekend --1 of 5 meetings a year) will
>be asking me to explain why I favor raising our bisque firing temp to 07
>(from 08). At one time a few years ago, we were firing to 09, and a couple
>of us were persuasive in raising it to 08. We had been having pits all
>over the place in the glaze firings, and had read (are still reading) that
>the first thing to do is to raise the bisque temp. It helped. But we still
>have too many pits, even if they have diminished somewhat. They occur in a
>variety of glazes, some shiny, some matte, some have rutile, but a number
>do not. There does not seem to be a discernible common denominator.
>Everything I read and anyone I've spoken to (Robin Hopper, and others)
>suggest that typical and ideal bisque temp is 06 or 07, 08 at the very
>lowest, so we seem to be at the light end.
>To explain further: We soak in the bisque firing (yes, in the bisque) at
>about 1450 -1480 f.to help the carbons burn off, (this helped too), then
>regular turnups after 1500, and we turn it off when 08 is over.
>For our glaze firing, in our large,communal gas kiln ( JT Abernathy-built,
>down-draft), we start body reduction at a little after 014, keeping the
>flame VERY light and letting it increase just a bit through to the end. It
>never (well, almost never) gets very heavy. We soak when cone 9 is half
>over for an hour to an hour and a half, turning the kiln off when cone 10
>is half over.
>
>There is resistance within the group to our increasing the bisque temp
>because of the increase of the brittleness of the ware; I really favor
>increasing, both because the last increase in temp helped, and because I
>keep reading and hearing that it would help. It's always hard to bring
>about change in a group, even small changes! People and books suggest going
>to 06 but I am suggesting 07 as a compromise Because we are a teaching
>organization, we have students (who don't know enough to protest) and I
>notice that they too are getting a lot of pits. I think our bisque is
>"processed" pretty quickly, and all or almost all of us clean it off before
>glazing.
>One last thing: we have 3 clay bodies: white stoneware (with about 8% fine
>grog) and darker stoneware (10 % fine grog) and a porcelain. The problem
>occurs more in the stonewares, especially but by no means exclusively in
>the darker body.
>
>I'd love to have your collective and individual opinions.It's been driving
>me nuts! Thanks for anything.
>Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, Michigan (ah, autumn at last!)
>
------ =_NextPart_000_01BBA090.BB972440
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