Jacquelyn Lumsden on mon 3 mar 97
I am writing on behalf of a fellow guild member who would like to
find/buy/borrow/beg plans for a treadle wheel . She learned to throw on one
and enjoyed the quiet of it. Lucky lady -- her dad will build it for her.
Thanks in advance for suggestions.
Jackie Lumsden
Waterloo, Ont. where the snow has almost all melted away!
June Perry on mon 3 mar 97
There are drawings for one in the Harry Davis book. I think the Leach or
Cardew book may have a sketch of one as well.
Regards,
June
tmaddux on tue 4 mar 97
"The Self Reliant Potter" by Andrew Holden has an excellent set of working
drawings for a treadle wheel. I believe that the book is out of print, but
it may be available at your local library. George
At 04:24 PM 3/3/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>There are drawings for one in the Harry Davis book. I think the Leach or
>Cardew book may have a sketch of one as well.
>
>Regards,
>June
>
>
McCoy, Jack Eugene on wed 27 aug 97
I'm the one who posted a request on Clayart last week on building a
treadle wheel.
I'll be glad to share what I'm learning along the way. I've never built
a "traditional" potter's wheel before and up to this point have used
only kick and electric wheels. So, I'm building something I've never
used before. But everything that I've read made the treadle wheel sound
good enough to give it a try. I'm hoping to have the control of a kick
wheel, yet something that's a bit easier to keep moving.
Anyway, I found my plans in a book titled, "The Self-Reliant Potter."
I've already made a few changes from the plans.
First, the plans call for a wood-framed, lead-shot filled fly wheel. I
believe this would work fine. But I looked at a number of photos of
treadle wheels used by folk potters years ago. They primarily used
large metal wheels as found on old farm equipment. I searched some
local junk yards and came up with a 100-pound pulley off an old combine
tractor. (It's 24 inches in diameter). Somehow, a metal fly wheel
seems more durable.
Second, the plans include a built-in seat. I'm designing mine so you
can stand--something I understand is easier on the back. Also, this is
how the old-timer production potters turned their ware with treadle
wheels.
Third, the plans call for a 36-inch shaft. The thing to keep in mind
here is how high you want your wheel head to sit. If you're throwing
large/tall pots you will want the wheel head low so you can reach down
into them. If you're doing mostly small stuff you'll want the head high
enough so that you don't have to lean over so much. I'm shortening mine
by a few inches.
If anyone's interested, I can provide additional details about the rest
of the wheel, i.e., shaft dimensions (again, I deviated from the
plans--due to the size of my fly wheel) and such.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=
Jack McCoy
Systems Programmer
East Carolina University
Voice: (919) 328-6855
Fax: (919) 328-4258
email: mccoyj@mail.ecu.edu
stevemills on fri 29 aug 97
Jack,
As someone who spent the first 10 years of his production life on a
kick/treadle very similar to Andy Holden's the author of "the Self -
Reliant Potter", I'd council you to retain the seat. When you are
sitting on a properly set up kick wheel the upper part of your kicking
leg should hardly move. Having got the whole thing started, the function
of the kicking leg is to maintain/vary the wheel speed WITHOUT
transmitting any reaction from the leg movement to the rest of the body.
If this movement is conveyed to the rest of you it will make the
throwing process very difficult, but properly adjusted it is a treat to
work on. I find that the wheel becomes an extension of me, and after a
while the whole process becomes very calming, no motors, just the tick
of the wheel and the sound of clay and water.
Have fun.
Steve
Still crazy!!!
In message , "McCoy, Jack Eugene" writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm the one who posted a request on Clayart last week on building a
>treadle wheel.
>
>I'll be glad to share what I'm learning along the way. I've never built
>a "traditional" potter's wheel before and up to this point have used
>only kick and electric wheels. So, I'm building something I've never
>used before. But everything that I've read made the treadle wheel sound
>good enough to give it a try. I'm hoping to have the control of a kick
>wheel, yet something that's a bit easier to keep moving.
>
>Anyway, I found my plans in a book titled, "The Self-Reliant Potter."
>I've already made a few changes from the plans.
>
>First, the plans call for a wood-framed, lead-shot filled fly wheel. I
>believe this would work fine. But I looked at a number of photos of
>treadle wheels used by folk potters years ago. They primarily used
>large metal wheels as found on old farm equipment. I searched some
>local junk yards and came up with a 100-pound pulley off an old combine
>tractor. (It's 24 inches in diameter). Somehow, a metal fly wheel
>seems more durable.
>
>Second, the plans include a built-in seat. I'm designing mine so you
>can stand--something I understand is easier on the back. Also, this is
>how the old-timer production potters turned their ware with treadle
>wheels.
>
>Third, the plans call for a 36-inch shaft. The thing to keep in mind
>here is how high you want your wheel head to sit. If you're throwing
>large/tall pots you will want the wheel head low so you can reach down
>into them. If you're doing mostly small stuff you'll want the head high
>enough so that you don't have to lean over so much. I'm shortening mine
>by a few inches.
>
>If anyone's interested, I can provide additional details about the rest
>of the wheel, i.e., shaft dimensions (again, I deviated from the
>plans--due to the size of my fly wheel) and such.
>
>
>
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>=-=-=-=-=
>Jack McCoy
>Systems Programmer
>East Carolina University
>Voice: (919) 328-6855
>Fax: (919) 328-4258
>email: mccoyj@mail.ecu.edu
>
--
Steve Mills
@Bath Potters Supplies
Dorset Close
Bath
BA2 3RF
UK
Tel:(44) (0)1225 337046
Fax:(44) (0)1225 462712
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