Colleen Rayner on wed 1 oct 97
Hi all,
I have made some great bats using a plastic flower pot base as a mold.
The bases come in all sizes although I have just made the smaller ones
as thats what I was in need of. They have the rings on the bottom which
may help in adhering to the wheel head.(?)
I think this was a suggestion that was posted to the list earlier this
year. And a good one too!
Colleen
Susan Fox on fri 5 nov 99
Hi, People -
A potter friend would like to know where she can buy plaster bats - big
ones. Any iseas? (We're in Connecticut) - TIA -
Susan
___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
Rod, Marian, and Holly Morris on mon 15 nov 99
Can't imagine why you'd buy one when they are so easily made. The first I
ever did was done on an old window which was out of its frame. We built a
wooden frame about 2' X 3' by 2.5" deep, set it down on the window which was
laying down on the ground, level. We ran a finger-sized bead of clay on the
inside, the a fat bead of clay all around the outside of the wooden frame to
attach it to the glass and keep the plaster from running out. Then we mixed
up a nice big batch of plaster, poured it in, and several hours later, we
removed the glass window, and voila! a glass-smooth, wooden framed bat! I've
probably made ten since then, large and small, sometimes on glass, or any
smooth surface (even contact paper). I even made one in those large plastic
covers to coldcut trays you get for parties.
You'll get ten of these for the postage you'd pay on a ready made one.
----- Original Message -----
From: Susan Fox
To:
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 4:45 PM
Subject: Plaster bats
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi, People -
>
> A potter friend would like to know where she can buy plaster bats - big
> ones. Any iseas? (We're in Connecticut) - TIA -
> Susan
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
Liv Antonecchia on thu 29 aug 02
hey,=20
Has anyone used that plaster bat Slump Hump system? I really =
want to throw on some plaster bats but other than that Slump Hump kit =
advertised (kinda costly) I have found nothing. Any suggestions?=20
Thanks,=20
LA
Jon Faber on thu 29 aug 02
i have found that you can make plaster bats by pouring
plaster into something with the desired shape and
deepness (i have found aluminum pie trays to work
well)and then attached it to the wheel head with what
i call a button.
A button is a bit of clay, a little less than a
handfull, that you center and flatten as if you were
going to make a plate. Keep it about 1/4 inch thick,
then use the point of a wooden rib (or anything that
suits you) to cut some circles into the clay. put the
plaster bat on the clay, turn the wheel slowly, and
pound the bat straight down with both hands clasped in
a fist.
I had a great demo on how to use a button but could
not get it to work for the longest time.
I just had to keep at it but here are some variables
that i find need attention:
how wet is the clay?
I use masonite bats and find the dryer the clay the
better the bat sticks.
how wet is the bat?
--- Liv Antonecchia wrote:
> hey,
> Has anyone used that plaster bat Slump Hump
> system? I really want to throw on some plaster bats
> but other than that Slump Hump kit advertised (kinda
> costly) I have found nothing. Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
> LA
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com
Rikki Gill on thu 29 aug 02
Go to your local flea market and buy old metal pie plates. My earliest
bats were made that way. Use some form of mold release, like a spray [even
Pam will do it] Be sure to level well, and use a good plaster, such as
hydrocal. Good luck. I still use some bats I made 20 years ago. Rikki
Gill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Liv Antonecchia"
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 4:46 AM
Subject: plaster bats
hey,
Has anyone used that plaster bat Slump Hump system? I really want
to throw on some plaster bats but other than that Slump Hump kit advertised
(kinda costly) I have found nothing. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
LA
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Dan Bowen on fri 30 aug 02
Yes I have recently purchased the system. I like the wieght of the bats and
it has aided speed in working. I am geting much more hieght in porcelian
quicker. This is a great feature, to be able to remove and return after the
porcelian has firmed a little. I mounted the plastic wheel mount part on a
wood bat so I could remove it and use a giffen grip. The wheel head part
mounts to the holes used for bat pins with bolts. More important that the
price in the time investment. You can only do one at a time, mix plaster,
pour, wait till plaster cures enough then, start over in about 35-40
minutes. if you are geting more than one size purchace an extra bottom form
(not the part that mounts to the wheel, the part that formes the groves in
the bottom fo the plaster bat). Then you can work on pouring two bats at the
same time.
Dan Bowen
Eastville Pottery
between the Chesapeake and the Atlantic
Bruce Girrell on thu 3 jan 08
Add us to the plaster bat user list.
No wiring off problems. Faster, more uniform drying resulting in less
warping and cracking.
Never have we had a single lime pop.
Bruce Girrell
John Rodgers on tue 15 sep 09
I use plaster bats. I have used all kinds - plastic bats, wood bats,
masonite bats, and others - but I always come back to plaster bats. Once
made. They last a long time if taken care of and not abused. I have some
that are over 10 years old and they work fine. \
Why do I like plaster bats? I like the self release feature of a plaster
bat. Throw a pot, set it aside still on the bat, get another bat and
throw another pot. Repeat. When done throwing, the first one is most
likely ready to be simply lifted from the bat. No cutting the post free
with a cutting wire, no trying to keep the wire flat as it cuts through
to release the pot, no having to cut-turn-cut with the wire. When the
post is ready, it simply releases from the bat. The plaster will pull
enough water from the clay to set the pot free.
I use the c0ommercially available Pure and Simple bat making system, and
there are a variety of bat types to chose from. BUT - I have also
learned how to make some very special bats that are uniquely mine that
permit me to throw some interesting stuff using the bat as a throwing
mold - not just an ordinary bat. I use the drive key of the P&S system
to drive my special bats when on the potters wheel.
The disadvantage of the plaster bat is the weight, and the storage. They
are heavier than most any other type, and they are thicker - therefore
there is a bit of awkwardness to them. But once use to them - they are
great and offer the advantages mentioned above.
BTW - all that angst and fear of plaster in the clay from the bats -
doesn't happen it you treat and handle your bats with respect.
My $0.02 on plaster bats.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Lis Allison on wed 16 sep 09
On Wednesday 16 September 2009, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> The disadvantage of the plaster bat is the weight, and the storage.
> They are heavier than most any other type, and they are thicker -
> therefore there is a bit of awkwardness to them. But once use to them -
> they are great and offer the advantages mentioned above.
>
> BTW - all that angst and fear of plaster in the clay from the bats -
> doesn't happen it you treat and handle your bats with respect.
I did find in a teaching situation that the bats got chipped and bits of
plaster did get into the clay. Students tend to be less careful than we
might be, especially with something which they expect to be unbreakable.
I have long used Plasti-bats, which I think are made by Giffen. They don't
warp, are easily cleaned (again, students tend to scrape plaster bats....)
and a piece that sits on them all week covered with plastic won't dry out.
Unfortunately, they aren't cheap.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
Susan Fox Hirschmann on wed 16 sep 09
AMEN! to that.
I use plasti bats with all my students...and teach them early on=3D20
#1. not to fear moving their pieces off the plasti bat to a piece of wood
#2. to just DO IT!
Eventually they "loosen" up and do it without being afraid of touching thei=
=3D
r work.
Plasti-bats....I have had mine for 15 years I think, and they look as great=
=3D
as when I bought them.=3DA0=3D20
Regards,
Susan
--- On Wed, 9/16/09, John Rodgers wrote:
From: John Rodgers
Subject: Plaster Bats
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 2009, 12:56 AM
I use plaster bats. I have used all kinds - plastic bats, wood bats,
masonite bats, and others - but I always come back to plaster bats. Once
made. They last a long time if taken care of and not abused. I have some
that are over 10 years old and they work fine. \
Why do I like plaster bats? I like the self release feature of a plaster
bat. Throw a pot, set it aside still on the bat, get another bat and
throw another pot. Repeat. When done throwing, the first one is most
likely ready to be simply lifted from the bat. No cutting the post free
with a cutting wire, no trying to keep the wire flat as it cuts through
to release the pot, no having to cut-turn-cut with the wire. When the
post is ready, it simply releases from the bat. The plaster will pull
enough water from the clay to set the pot free.
I use the c0ommercially available Pure and Simple bat making system, and
there are a variety of bat types to chose from. BUT - I have also
learned how to make some very special bats that are uniquely mine that
permit me to throw some interesting stuff using the bat as a throwing
mold - not just an ordinary bat.=3DA0 I use the drive key of the P&S system
to drive my special bats when on the potters wheel.
The disadvantage of the plaster bat is the weight, and the storage. They
are heavier than most any other type, and they are thicker - therefore
there is a bit of awkwardness to them. But once use to them - they are
great and offer the advantages mentioned above.
BTW - all that angst and fear of plaster in the clay from the bats -
doesn't happen it you treat and handle your bats with respect.
My $0.02 on plaster bats.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Lis Allison on wed 16 sep 09
Oops, little goof. Plasti-bat is made by Amaco, the Giffen bats don't seem
to have a name. The Giffen ones are slightly better as I find the holes in
the Plasti-bats do hit my fingers when I cut the piece of the bat on the
wheel, but it's not a big problem.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
Janet Price on wed 16 sep 09
I too use plaster bats. My wheel head has holes drilled in it and my
bats have pins that fit the holes. This does make the bats take up more
space, but when you stack them, there's air between and they dry out a
bit faster. But I prefer the bats to have the pins rather than the
wheelhead. Just me and perhaps if I were a production potter, I'd feel
differently. Have never had a problem with plaster in my clay and I
made the bats myself.
Janet
--
Janet Price
jmkprice26@comcast.net
http://idabbles.blogspot.com/
Tracey Duivestein on thu 17 sep 09
How thin can a "drop-in" plaster bat be (about 17cm square)?
I have "unrounded" several mugs in the past couple of weeks as I cut
them off the wheel-head or a bat, so have decided to try plaster. This
weekend I made a wooden bat with cleats to hold it onto the wheel head
(no bat pins) & a cut-out for the plaster bats. The cut-out is the same
size as our 5lt icecream containers - must just find a way to fill
the dent in the bottom.
Following the recent discussions on tar paper & canvas, I will try & get
those (live in a very small town...) to test too.
Many thanks
Tracey
near Stanford, South Africa where spring is supposed to have sprung, but
it's chilly & wet. Suppose we need the rain, but it is not conducive to
drying pottery.
John Rodgers wrote:
> I use plaster bats. I have used all kinds - plastic bats, wood bats,
> masonite bats, and others - but I always come back to plaster bats. Once
> made. They last a long time if taken care of and not abused. I have some
> that are over 10 years old and they work fine. \
>
> Why do I like plaster bats? I like the self release feature of a plaster
> bat. Throw a pot, set it aside still on the bat, get another bat and
> throw another pot. Repeat. When done throwing, the first one is most
> likely ready to be simply lifted from the bat. No cutting the post free
> with a cutting wire, no trying to keep the wire flat as it cuts through
> to release the pot, no having to cut-turn-cut with the wire. When the
> post is ready, it simply releases from the bat. The plaster will pull
> enough water from the clay to set the pot free.
>
> I use the c0ommercially available Pure and Simple bat making system, and
> there are a variety of bat types to chose from. BUT - I have also
> learned how to make some very special bats that are uniquely mine that
> permit me to throw some interesting stuff using the bat as a throwing
> mold - not just an ordinary bat. I use the drive key of the P&S system
> to drive my special bats when on the potters wheel.
>
> The disadvantage of the plaster bat is the weight, and the storage. They
> are heavier than most any other type, and they are thicker - therefore
> there is a bit of awkwardness to them. But once use to them - they are
> great and offer the advantages mentioned above.
>
> BTW - all that angst and fear of plaster in the clay from the bats -
> doesn't happen it you treat and handle your bats with respect.
>
> My $0.02 on plaster bats.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
Lis Allison on thu 17 sep 09
On Thursday 17 September 2009, Tracey Duivestein wrote:
> I have "unrounded" several mugs in the past couple of weeks as I cut
> them off the wheel-head or a bat, so have decided to try plaster. ...
Hey, Tracey. Try wiring the piece off the wheelhead or bat with a thin
wire (one of the purchased ones or 20-lb test fishing line) while the
wheel turns at it's usual speed. Voila, no more 'unrounding'.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
Larry Kruzan on thu 22 oct 09
Hey All Claybuds,
I am looking for a plaster bat mold system that I saw at Nceca a couple
years ago, however, none of the places I normally look have it. It was a
very simple system that had rubber like rings that could be placed in the
bat for the pins to lock on.
I have the pure and simple mold but don't care for the big, thick bats I ge=
t
from it (the large keyway is the problem here). I have over three hundred
bats that I have made over the past 9 years and it's time to replace about
half of them.
I like to rotate my bats to give them time to dry before the next cycle.
Most of the time each bat gets used once or twice a week - except in my pea=
k
production months. In those couple months they are up every other day, so I
hope that switching to plaster will help me get the pots off the bats
quicker.
I'd appreciate any constructive input about this. And I do know there is
risk of contamination from plaster - any personal experience good or bad?
Thanks,
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
Monica Wright on fri 23 oct 09
I think the bats with rubber inserts for bat pins are called "hydrobats".=
=3D
=3DA0 I've got some.=3DA0 Really like them.=3DA0 Do a google search.=3DA0 G=
ood luck=3D
.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0AFrom: Larry =
Kruzan y_kruzan@COMCAST.NET>=3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0ASent: Thursday, =
Octo=3D
ber 22, 2009 10:25:08 PM=3D0ASubject: Plaster bats=3D0A=3D0AHey All Claybud=
s,=3D0A=3D
=3D0AI am looking for a plaster bat mold system that I saw at Nceca a coupl=
e=3D
=3D0Ayears ago, however, none of the places I normally look have it. It was=
a=3D
=3D0Avery simple system that had rubber like rings that could be placed in =
th=3D
e=3D0Abat for the pins to lock on.=3D0A=3D0AI have the pure and simple mold=
but d=3D
on't care for the big, thick bats I get=3D0Afrom it (the large keyway is th=
e =3D
problem here). I have over three hundred=3D0Abats that I have made over the=
p=3D
ast 9 years and it's time to replace about=3D0Ahalf of them.=3D0A=3D0AI lik=
e to r=3D
otate my bats to give them time to dry before the next cycle.=3D0AMost of t=
he=3D
time each bat gets used once or twice a week - except in my peak=3D0Aprodu=
ct=3D
ion months. In those couple months they are up every other day, so I=3D0Aho=
pe=3D
that switching to plaster will help me get the pots off the bats=3D0Aquick=
er=3D
.=3D0A=3D0AI'd appreciate any constructive input about this. And I do know =
ther=3D
e is=3D0Arisk of contamination from plaster - any personal experience good =
or=3D
bad?=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0AThanks,=3D0A=3D0ALarry Kruzan=3D0A=3D0ALost Creek =
Pottery=3D0A=3D0Awww=3D
.lostcreekpottery.com=3D0A
Jess McKenzie on fri 23 oct 09
If you like the idea of replaceable inserts and want to make
your own bats that use inserts, see Jim Wylder's invention:
http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramic-studio-equipment/pottery-
wheels/replaceable-bat-pin-inserts/
We made our own this way, using inserts of 1/2 phenolic board,
sliced into squares, drilled with 1/2" holes. Jim used an old
plastic cutting board. His 'replaceable' insert is plastic
tubing--1/2" OD by 3/8" ID. We used polyethylene, but Tygon
might work better; it's more pliable.
We used a cottle made of aluminum flashing and cast our bats
on the wheel, just as Jim did. We like the result.
~joan and jess
Monica Wright wrote:
I think the bats with rubber inserts for bat pins are called
"hydrobats".=3DA0 I've got some.=3DA0 Really like them.=3DA0 Do a google
search.=3DA0
Good luck.
Steve Slatin on fri 23 oct 09
You might be remembering the Lester plaster bat
system. It used to be advertised in CM, and
was demo'ed at a few recent NCECA's. It used
inserts (plastic, I think) to actually hold
the bat pins.
Steve Slatin --
--- On Thu, 10/22/09, Larry Kruzan wrote:
> From: Larry Kruzan
> Subject: Plaster bats
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Thursday, October 22, 2009, 8:25 PM
> Hey All Claybuds,
>
> I am looking for a plaster bat mold system that I saw at
> Nceca a couple
> years ago, however, none of the places I normally look have
> it. It was a
> very simple system that had rubber like rings that could be
> placed in the
> bat for the pins to lock on.
>
> I have the pure and simple mold but don't care for the big,
> thick bats I get
> from it (the large keyway is the problem here). I have over
> three hundred
> bats that I have made over the past 9 years and it's time
> to replace about
> half of them.
>
> I like to rotate my bats to give them time to dry before
> the next cycle.
> Most of the time each bat gets used once or twice a week -
> except in my peak
> production months. In those couple months they are up every
> other day, so I
> hope that switching to plaster will help me get the pots
> off the bats
> quicker.
>
> I'd appreciate any constructive input about this. And I do
> know there is
> risk of contamination from plaster - any personal
> experience good or bad?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Kruzan
>
> Lost Creek Pottery
>
> www.lostcreekpottery.com
>
claybuds@ATT.NET on sat 24 oct 09
Hi Larry,
=3DC2=3DA0I'm not familiar with you're bat system, but I have used a plaste=
r ba=3D
t system from AMACO for thirty years and it's always worked extremely well =
=3D
for me. The system is still carried in the newest AMACO catalog, the Specia=
=3D
l Throwing Head Set, 30987Y. The throwing head comes with a throat on it to=
=3D
fit on the shaft of your wheel, which I cut off. I attach the=3DC2=3DA0thr=
owin=3D
g head onto the top of any bat that fits standard width bat pins. The set =
=3D
comes with a mold ring, and it's easy to make your own plaster bats, which =
=3D
fit the throwing head by compression fit. Like you, I always allow drying t=
=3D
ime between uses, but after a few thousand cycles, the bats must be replace=
=3D
d. I use potter's No. 1 plaster. Website for AMACO is www.amaco.com, 800-37=
=3D
4-1600.
David Beumee
Lafayette, CO
=3DC2=3DA0 -------------- Original message from Larry Kruzan @COM=3D
CAST.NET>: --------------=3D20
> Hey All Claybuds,=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> I am looking for a plaster bat mold system that I saw at Nceca a couple=
=3D
=3D20
> years ago, however, none of the places I normally look have it. It was a=
=3D
=3D20
> very simple system that had rubber like rings that could be placed in the=
=3D
=3D20
> bat for the pins to lock on.=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> I have the pure and simple mold but don't care for the big, thick bats I =
=3D
get=3D20
> from it (the large keyway is the problem here). I have over three hundred=
=3D
=3D20
> bats that I have made over the past 9 years and it's time to replace abou=
=3D
t=3D20
> half of them.=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> I like to rotate my bats to give them time to dry before the next cycle.=
=3D
=3D20
> Most of the time each bat gets used once or twice a week - except in my p=
=3D
eak=3D20
> production months. In those couple months they are up every other day, so=
=3D
I=3D20
> hope that switching to plaster will help me get the pots off the bats=3D2=
0
> quicker.=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> I'd appreciate any constructive input about this. And I do know there is=
=3D
=3D20
> risk of contamination from plaster - any personal experience good or bad?=
=3D
=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> Thanks,=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> Larry Kruzan=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> Lost Creek Pottery=3D20
>=3D20=3D20
> www.lostcreekpottery.com=3D20=3D20
| |
|
