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pugmill

updated tue 9 nov 10

 

John Jensen on thu 15 aug 96

I don't have a pugmill. I mix my clay up 70 lbs at a time in a Pastry mixer.
This works pretty well for me, but the freshly made clay is always a bit foamy.
That is to say that is has a lot of tiny air spaces throughout the body. A
fairly large amount of wedging is required to make it really good and ready for
throwing. Is this the sort of air that De-Airing pugmills eliminate? Or do
they only remove larger air pockets and bubbles. Another question, would the
non-deairing pugmill improve the consistency of the clay by eliminating some of
the foamy type air bubbles....John Jensen in Annapolis.
76053.1462@compuserve.com

cape1764@biddeford.com on wed 21 aug 96

I bought a bluebird 440 in February and have put alot of clay through it. It
mixes different consistancies ie reclaimed, stiff and reg. of clay to a
perfectly mixed pug. Tracy
###############################################
/ / \ Tracy Wilson
/ \ Saltbox Pottery
/ \ RR3 Box 749
/ O | Route 1
/ \ / | Woolwich, Maine 04579
| __V__ | Phone: 207 443-5586
| | | | Fax: 207 443-6544-0
|_________| Email: cape1764@biddeford.com

###############################################

John Jensen on thu 12 sep 96

I asked about pugmills a few weeks back and got a number of interesting replies.
The two brands mentioned were Bluebird and Venco. Both seem to give good
service. One person complained that the Bluebird suffered from corrosion and
pitting of some the working parts. From the information I got, I am likely to
go for the Venco 3 1/2 inch deairing pugmill.... John Jensen in Annapolis
76053.1462@compuserve.com

Hertz Pottery on thu 12 sep 96

the Venco is a good choice John...
Ive had one for 4 years and couldnt be happier. if you have and questions
about it before or after you get it feel free to contact me.
Erik in Ocean City>----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
>I asked about pugmills a few weeks back and got a number of interesting
replies.
>The two brands mentioned were Bluebird and Venco. Both seem to give good
>service. One person complained that the Bluebird suffered from corrosion and
>pitting of some the working parts. From the information I got, I am likely to
>go for the Venco 3 1/2 inch deairing pugmill.... John Jensen in Annapolis
>76053.1462@compuserve.com
>
>
erik hertz

Cathy Durham on sun 29 sep 96

Roger, I think Elca Branman has a lot more potting
experience than I do, but I have a 3" Venco Pugmill and I would never pour
water into the hopper to keep the clay from drying. I use a white
earthenware clay that dries a lot faster than stoneware clay. What I do is-
I have a sponge cut to the size of the hopper and it is 3" or 4" thick. I
DAMPEN the sponge, put it in the hopper and lay an old bread bag across it.
I found a piece of wood about the size of the hopper and just lay this on
top to keep the plastic in place. I put 2 bread bags on the end of the
barrel to keep that end from drying out and tie it on with a bit of
pantihose. If I haven't pugged for weeks, the clay has not dried out at all.
If you pour water into the pugmill, when you pug next that will mix and you
would get a sloppy segment of clay coming out... Other suggestions, most
potters here (NZ)use Venco and remove the grate in the hopper just to speed
things up a bit. But it is there for safety reasons, so if you have someone
around who might stick there fingers in, don't remove it. Don't put clay
through that is too gooey, or is too hard, but you can alternate soft and
firm to get a nice workable pug. THE MOTOR WILL VIBRATE AND TRAVEL! so you
may want to block it. A friend built a very nice sliding tray to catch and
slide with the pug as it comes out and on the level so the clay doesn't
droop down. Along the edge that holds the slide are most commonly used
increments (specif to you) so you can just cut the pug to desired amounts(ie
4" is 500 grams and I use that weight for ....)and you can eliminate
weighing. I have never heard of any problems with the Venco. For me it has
been a great investment and time and energy saver. Those on the list who
are WAITING and looking for a used or cheap deal on a pugmill- my strong
advise is just get one- it will pay for itself!!!

woodway@ican.net on fri 7 feb 97

I too love my bluebird 440. When I got it in the early 80's there was a
mystery air leak that my dealer Frank Tucker found and fixed. Since then
just the usual maintenance. For a long tine I had trouble with tiny hard
bits in my pugged clay which were a pain because they show through my
clear glaze. Now I make sure to wrap not only the hopper but the whole
barrel as well and most recently (its only taken me fourteen years to
figure this out!) began leaving the hopper pretty full of clay. My
thinking is the more clay left in the machine the more it will hold
moisture. I turn it off just as pressure begins to drop. Which brings me
to my question. I'm curious what kind of pressure people are getting
from their vacuums. With my small hopper I reach 20lbs. for a minute or
two and them presure drops as I reload. This gives me a nice open body
which practically throws itself. I would be curious to hear what
pressures other potters are getting.


Nancy Solway

Toronto

Bill Aycock on sun 9 feb 97

At 07:00 AM 2/7/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------

> I'm curious what kind of pressure people are getting
>from their vacuums. With my small hopper I reach 20lbs.
>
>
>Nancy Solway
>
Nancy- I would like to know just what kind of guage your are using, and how
it was calibrated-- As a matter of physical fact, if you live on the surface
of the planet earth, the most vacuum you can rach is 14.7 psi (Slightly more
in Death Valley, as a high pressure front passes.) [psi means 'pounds per
square inch', usually abreviated to 'pounds, in common jargon]

Bill, in an atmosphere measuring about 14.4 psi (positive), on Persimmon Hill.

Bill Aycock --- Persimmon Hill --- Woodville, Alabama, USA
--- (in the N.E. corner of the State)
also-- W4BSG -- Grid EM64vr

Robert Kittel on mon 10 feb 97

In absolute best conditions you would hope to pull 30 inches of vacuum.
Twenty nine inches is what most pug mills pull and will give great results.
If you do in fact have the correct guage and it's reading 20 inches of
vacuum then you may have a bad pump or a air leak in your deairing chamber.
I think that if you have PSI then your putting air into the deairing chamber
(pressure).
I would check with Craig Martell on pug mill qestions.
>
>> I'm curious what kind of pressure people are getting
>>from their vacuums. With my small hopper I reach 20lbs.
>>
>>
>>Nancy Solway
>>
>Nancy- I would like to know just what kind of guage your are using, and how
>it was calibrated-- As a matter of physical fact, if you live on the surface
>of the planet earth, the most vacuum you can rach is 14.7 psi (Slightly more
>in Death Valley, as a high pressure front passes.) [psi means 'pounds per
>square inch', usually abreviated to 'pounds, in common jargon]
>
>Bill, in an atmosphere measuring about 14.4 psi (positive), on Persimmon Hill.
>
>Bill Aycock --- Persimmon Hill --- Woodville, Alabama, USA
> --- (in the N.E. corner of the State)
>also-- W4BSG -- Grid EM64vr
>

millie carpenter on sun 9 aug 98

hi group

my hands have about convinced me that I need to get a pugmill. so I
will ask if anyone has a Bluebird 440 that they no longer want? I
realize that this is very long shot. but it never hurts to ask.

Also one of my daughters room mates wants an electric wheel, and has
the usual college students budget.

Millie in Md.

on mon 10 aug 98

Hi Millie, You're right about a pugmill saving your hands, as well as
shoulders and elbows. I couln't have lived without mine. I am selling it
now but it is a Bluebird 800 De-Airing. Is this more than what you want?
lark

L.P. Skeen on tue 30 mar 99

Ok, I'm looking to get a pugmill. I live near Greensboro, NC, and
willing to travel into VA, SC, TN or GA to get one used if available.

Otherwise, I know we've already had this discussion before, so somebody
Please tell me how to get to the archives so I can see others' opinions
on brand vs. brand?
TIA!!!
--
Lisa Skeen ICQ# 15554910
Living Tree Pottery & Soaps http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION!!! It comes bundled with the software.
The Bill of Rights - (void where prohibited by law)

Wendy Neilson on wed 31 mar 99

I'm looking for a pug mill too!! From my research the best, easiest to use
and most reliable for home/studio use seems to be the Venco de-aring.. their
smallest model.. any leads much appreciated.. thanks
voice/fax (250) 380-2231
Pots & Paints Studio
1036 Munro Street
Victoria, BC
Can. V9A 5N9
potsnpaints@home.com

David Woodin on thu 1 apr 99

You should also get information about the Peter Pugger de-airing pugmill, a
rugged machine with a large hopper opening to put clay in. The clay or scraps
then can be mixed and then pugged and de-aired.
David

L.P. Skeen on fri 2 apr 99

David Woodin wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> You should also get information about the Peter Pugger de-airing pugmill, a
> rugged machine with a large hopper opening to put clay in. The clay or scraps
> then can be mixed and then pugged and de-aired.
> David

This is actually MY dream machine, because I'm used to making my own claybody at
school, and I"m an impatient soul. With this machine, I could put wet stuff
and dry stuff and mix together before pugging out. Yahoo! Anyone got a price o
it?
--
Lisa Skeen ICQ# 15554910
Living Tree Pottery & Soaps http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION!!! It comes bundled with the software.
The Bill of Rights - (void where prohibited by law)

Vince Pitelka on sun 4 apr 99

>> You should also get information about the Peter Pugger de-airing pugmill, a
>> rugged machine with a large hopper opening to put clay in. The clay or
scraps
>> then can be mixed and then pugged and de-aired.

>This is actually MY dream machine, because I'm used to making my own
claybody at
>school, and I"m an impatient soul. With this machine, I could put wet stuff
>and dry stuff and mix together before pugging out. Yahoo! Anyone got a
price o
>it?

The Peter Pugger represents a wonderful idea - put in your raw materials or
scraps and run the thing in one direction, and it mixes the materials
thoroughly. Reverse the direction, and it extrudes the clay through the
built-in pug-mill barrel. BUT, the de-airing model only handles 25 pound
batches, which is EXTREMELY slow. I talked to the Peter Pugger folks at
NCECA, and they are working on a larger vacuum de-airing model. They are
expensive - at least as much as any good de-airing mill. I do not know the
exact amount, but check the phone number in CM and call them.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166

Maxine Cohn. on thu 8 apr 99

Hi Lisa,

Have you heard about Shimpo's new Add-A-Vac pugmill - compact enough for a
countertop yet powerfull enough to pug 800 lbs. of clay per hour? The bolts
just slide out for easy cleaning. Available deairing. You have a dealer
near you:

Williams Supply
132 Allen Road
Star, NC 27356
910-428-9205 phone

If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Laura Barov
Shimpo Ceramics
630-671-2137/8 phone
630-924-0340 fax

John Tilton on sat 6 may 00

Leslie,

There are problems with some Bluebird pugmills if you are using
porcelain. The porcelain ends up reacting with the inside of the
pugmill, forming a crystal which spalls off the mill and explodes in the
firing if you are not lucky enough to remove it in the throwing process.
I tried many solutions to this problem and eventually just bought a
different pugmill.

The paint will eventually wear and if you are using stoneware you should
have no problems. On second thought, I'd sandblast it off before pugging
any clay.

But I would not buy a Magnesium alloy pugmill for porcelain.

John



--
John Tilton
16211 NW 88th Terrace
Alachua, Fl. 32615
904-462-3762
Web site: http://www.tiltonpottery.com
mailto:tilton@atlantic.net

BobWicks@AOL.COM on fri 13 oct 00


Jen:
I have a Walker Pug Mill and I wonder if you are the sole owner of your
equipment. Do you know if anyone has altered the machine such as a different
gear box or a different speed motor? If I am correct that motor runs the
auger at 52 RPM. If it is going faster that might account for your condition
you describe. Also, you might take a VOM reading and see what voltage you
are putting to the motor.

Another suggestion would be to clean out the machine as best you can. Do not
touch it while it is running. It is possible that some clay has hardened in
the tube and may be causing some turbulence. Other than that I can't think
of anything else to tell you. I have had a Walker since 1970 and it works
perfectly well and it has had hard use.

Bob

J102551@AOL.COM on fri 13 oct 00


I have a Walker pugmill; I had used one in the studio all through school
without any incidents. II am having some problems and I don't even know
where to start. I asked for help a while ago with my porcelain body. Now I
find that it is my pugmill. Everything comes out looking like whipped cream.
Even commercial clay right out of the box. Help. Jeri

ferenc jakab on sat 14 oct 00


> I have a Walker pugmill; I had used one in the studio all through school
> without any incidents. II am having some problems and I don't even know
> where to start. I asked for help a while ago with my porcelain body. Now
I
> find that it is my pugmill. Everything comes out looking like whipped
cream.
> Even commercial clay right out of the box. Help. Jeri

Jeri,
I'm not familiar with the Walker pugmill. Is it possible that oil is being
mixed into the clay and becoming emulsified? I've seen the sort of thing you
described on heavy mining equipment where oil leaks into wet clay caked onto
a drive shaft.
Feri.

Gerry Chichester on fri 24 nov 00


Christin - Where are you located? I am in the market for a good =
de-airing pugmill, and assuredly, being that it is in good condition, I =
would expect to pay more than $350 for it! Thanks...Carly

Debbie Smith on thu 14 dec 00


I'm planning on buying a small de-airing pugmill. I've narrowed it down to
either the Venco Mark II or the Bluebird #440. Is anyone familiar with both
machines? Would you recommend one over the other? Thanks Debbie

KLeSueur@AOL.COM on thu 14 dec 00


In a message dated 12/14/00 6:27:04 PM, Claythrow@AOL.COM writes:

<< I'm planning on buying a small de-airing pugmill. I've narrowed it down to
either the Venco Mark II or the Bluebird #440. Is anyone familiar with both
machines? Would you recommend one over the other? Thanks Debbie
>>

Both are good machines. There are several advantages to the Bluebird. First,
is that it is American made with stock parts. If you ever need to replace a
part you can get it at W. W. Grainger. Second, because it is American made
you can call Bluebird if you have a problem and they will tell you what to
do. And third, is that you can extrude with the Bluebird. Extrusions from a
pugmill are far superior to those out of a hand extruder.

I had the predessor of the 440, a studio model built in 1976. I sold it to a
friend 8 years ago and it's still working. I now have a Bluebird Powerstar
that I love. It's 8 years old and one of the best machines I've ever owned.

Kathi LeSueur

tgschs10 on fri 15 dec 00


Debbie,
Look at the Peter Pugger; it is both a mixer and de-airing pugmill. I love
mine best buy I ever made.
Tom Sawyer
tgschs10@msn.com

MaryBeth Bishop on fri 15 dec 00


Debbie,
I have a Bluebird 440. Not new. It was used when it came into my life. I
love it and now consider that if I could only have one piece of equipment it
would be that. Before a wheel. Before anything. Maybe a little extreme,
but that's how I feel. Anyway, I always looked at the Venco with covetous
eyes but as I remember there is a significant cost difference. I may be
cheap but even if I could afford both, the job gets done with my Bluebird.
There is something to be said for having a little left over cash in the bank.
Nothing is perfect anyway. Whatever you get, it will be a happy day I'm
sure.

I tried to get fleece lined jeans for my husband and they were sold out
everywhere. Next year I'll order in June.

Jingle bells and good Christmas sales to all,
Mary Beth Bishop

Stanley Irvin on mon 18 dec 00


Debbie,
Check out the archives. There are some good recommendations from
potters who have used these two machines. Sounds like you are trying
to decide between the same two machines I did a week or so ago. I
went with the Venco (form Axner) because I have a Bluebird 440 at the
school where I teach and it has always seemed very slow and has what
seems like a very low and ineffective vacuum (1/12th horsepower).
You might want to consider however that the Venco has a 220 volt
drive motor and a 220 volt vacuum pump. Together they pull less than
20 amps so you could most likely put both 220 outlets on one 220 volt
circuit. If you have an electric kiln, you could use that circuit
and operate the pug mill only when you are not firing the kiln. If
you don't have 220 volt capability, then go with the Bluebird. Also
check out Axner's web sight for better comparison of the specs for
each.

Stan Irvin
Austin, Texas

Doug Jones on sun 31 dec 00


I have been making pots for 30 years (took a long hiatus, but I've been =
back for a few). I finally let mother nature catch up and have a bad =
rotator in my left shoulder. I have always wedged my own clay, but with =
the shoulder I need to finally invest in a pugmill.=20

I am looking (as is everyone else) for a good used pugmill, I would =
prefer a Venco w/ 3 1/2", but am open to any reasonable 'good deal'. My =
wife recently passed and I sold our house w/ studio. I am constructing a =
new studio and space is not an issue (for the first time).

My son has worked for different potters for several years and is coming =
in w/ me. We just bought an 18cf downdraft 'Laser' kiln. I have always =
fired ^6 oxidation (except in school 30 years ago) and it will be =
interesting to see the change in our work and how sales differ. We are =
keeping our skutts to do our bisque loads. Anyone escaping the cold, =
visit us in Florida (it's a sunny 24 degrees as I write this). Wish us =
luck in our changeover.

best regards,
Doug Jones, Island Pottery
potters2@bellsouth.net =20

John Jensen on mon 1 jan 01


I have the small venco..I guess it's a 3 1/2 ...deairing pugmill. I've been
using it in my shop for three years or so. I pug up about 50 lbs. of scrap
and slop a day and have found the machine perfectly adequate to my needs. I
the screens about once every two or three months. When the screens are
clean it really does work fast and effeciently. When the screens are
clogged up it still works but slowly with a lot of effort. I think I paid
around $2200 or so for it. I may be at the breakeven point on it about now.
But what it has saved on my joints is beyond measure. I got the school
where I teach to buy one around the same time, that one being a 4 inch job.
Great for the school..too big for my needs. I was so desperate from wrist
pain that I thought I might give up pottery. No doubt in my mind that the
machines have kept me in the business...I love them. And the quality,
texture, throwability of the clay is greatly enhanced by the pugmill...much
much better than right out of the box.

John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery ,Annapolis, Toadhouse.com

Jeremy/Bonnie Hellman on mon 1 jan 01


Hi,

I bought a de-airing Peter Pugger. the VPM-30, at the Denver NCECA that I
started using last summer in my CO studio. Not only does it work well, it is
the right size for my needs. I'm just delighted not to have to wedge
recycled clay.

However, the best benefit of this nice machine is that I felt a lot more
freedom to experiment with new ideas in clay and to work with more freedom
to fail, because I no longer had to deal with recycling all that clay! I
found I was willing to try larger pieces and if they weren't working, I
didn't mind recycling them and starting over. I knew that recycling the clay
wasn't going to require a lot of effort. Just dump in the hopper and let the
machine do the work.

I've always hated to wedge, I know my wrists are not particularly strong,
and both my father and sister have had carpal tunnel problems (if they're
hereditary at all!). That was one of the original motivations to buy the
Peter Pugger.

The other motivation was the ability to mix my own paper clay. I wanted to
use paper clay, but didn't want to buy commercially available paper clay,
although I do buy clay ready made. I'm happy with the glazes I've found that
fit my clay, and didn't want to start experimenting with other clays. Again,
with the Peter Pugger I was easily able to mix, deair and pug, and then
recycle. This gave me a lot of (mental) freedom to experiment.

In the past, clayart has had heated discussions about the merits of the
Peter Pugger, and I'm a great proponent, but my point here is that having a
deairing pugmill was a ceramically liberating experience for me.

A Happy, Healthy 2001 to all.

Bonnie

Bonnie Hellman in Pittsburgh, PA

> From: John Jensen
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 11:58:36 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Pugmill
>
> I have the small venco..I guess it's a 3 1/2 ...deairing pugmill. I've been
> using it in my shop for three years or so. I pug up about 50 lbs. of scrap
> and slop a day and have found the machine perfectly adequate to my needs. I
> the screens about once every two or three months. When the screens are
> clean it really does work fast and effeciently. When the screens are
> clogged up it still works but slowly with a lot of effort. I think I paid
> around $2200 or so for it. I may be at the breakeven point on it about now.
> But what it has saved on my joints is beyond measure. I got the school
> where I teach to buy one around the same time, that one being a 4 inch job.
> Great for the school..too big for my needs. I was so desperate from wrist
> pain that I thought I might give up pottery. No doubt in my mind that the
> machines have kept me in the business...I love them. And the quality,
> texture, throwability of the clay is greatly enhanced by the pugmill...much
> much better than right out of the box.
>
> John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery ,Annapolis, Toadhouse.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

Brian Crocker [S.Australia] on tue 2 jan 01


G'Day Doug,
I have built several Pugmils overhauled many and used also many Venco's in
both studio and production situations and have found that they stand up to
heavy use.
The best of luck in your change-over.
Its 40 degrees C., here in South Australia and no change in sight.

Kind regards,

Brian and Rena. . .

=================================(:~))

At 12:28 31/12/00 -0500, you wrote:
>I have been making pots for 30 years (took a long hiatus, but I've been
back for a few). I finally let mother nature catch up and have a bad rotator
in my left shoulder. I have always wedged my own clay, but with the shoulder
I need to finally invest in a pugmill.
>
>I am looking (as is everyone else) for a good used pugmill, I would prefer
a Venco w/ 3 1/2", but am open to any reasonable 'good deal'. My wife
recently passed and I sold our house w/ studio. I am constructing a new
studio and space is not an issue (for the first time).
>
>My son has worked for different potters for several years and is coming in
w/ me. We just bought an 18cf downdraft 'Laser' kiln. I have always fired ^6
oxidation (except in school 30 years ago) and it will be interesting to see
the change in our work and how sales differ. We are keeping our skutts to do
our bisque loads. Anyone escaping the cold, visit us in Florida (it's a
sunny 24 degrees as I write this). Wish us luck in our changeover.
>
> best regards,
> Doug Jones, Island Pottery
> potters2@bellsouth.net
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
end
[(:-) --------------------------------------------------------------(;-))]
end

Brian and Rena Crocker.
4 Erica Street,
Tea Tree Gully, 5091
South Australia,
Australia.

Phone - Fax: 08 8264 4136

E.mail, crocker@esc.net.au

bill & Pam on tue 10 jul 01


We are looking for a used pug mill with vacuum de-airing. Do you know =
of any which might be for sale?

Bill & Pam Clark
duomo42@mindspring.com

Joyce Lee on sun 22 jul 01


My aplogies for sending not only a quote from
Holly but adding her whole original post .....
bad cess to me.

Lisa, I do have the Bluebird pugmill... and their mixer....
use the mixer constantly .... the small one is just
the right size for my studio. However, if I were
purchasing a pugmill today, I'd go for the Peter
Pugger based on reports from satisfied potters.

Joyce
In the Mojave

Althea Vail on fri 1 feb 02


I work in a small, one person studio and am in need of a small, de-airing
pugmill. Which machine would best meet my needs? Also, is anyone offering a
used pugmill for sale?

Althea Vail
Pine Tree Pottery
New Jersey


_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com

Cindy Strnad on fri 1 feb 02


Hi, Althea.

I own and highly recommend the Peter Pugger
mixing/de-airing pugmill, and I understand they
have an even smaller model available now than the
one I bought.

Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com

Charles Moore on fri 1 feb 02


Althea and Cindy,

I have ordered a new BlueBird--like Peter Pugger--a smaller new size. This
one runs of 110 volts rather than 220A. Bailey's has it for something less
that $2400.

Charles Moore
Sacramento
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cindy Strnad"
To:
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pugmill


> Hi, Althea.
>
> I own and highly recommend the Peter Pugger
> mixing/de-airing pugmill, and I understand they
> have an even smaller model available now than the
> one I bought.
>
> Cindy Strnad
> Earthen Vessels Pottery
> RR 1, Box 51
> Custer, SD 57730
> USA
> cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
> http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

vince pitelka on sat 2 feb 02


> I work in a small, one person studio and am in need of a small, de-airing
> pugmill. Which machine would best meet my needs? Also, is anyone offering
a
> used pugmill for sale?

Althea -
The small Bluebird de-airing is a beauty - small and affordable, but a real
workhorse that will last you your lifetime. If you want one that will mix
clay as well, the small deairing Peter Pugger is a fantastic machine.

Used pugmills come along now and then, but rarely when you want them, or
else they are far too large for your needs.
Good luck -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/

vince pitelka on sat 2 feb 02


> I have ordered a new BlueBird--like Peter Pugger--a smaller new size. This
> one runs of 110 volts rather than 220A. Bailey's has it for something
less
> that $2400.

Charles -
Odd to compare the Bluebird to the Peter Pugger, because of course they are
entirely different animals. The only similarity is that ultimately they
will both deair and pug the clay. But of course the Peter Pugger will mix
clay from scratch, and the Bluebird will not. The small Bluebird will
process a lot more plastic clay much faster than the small Peter Pugger, but
it will not mix clay from scratch.
I thought that should be clarified.
Best wishes -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/

Martin Howard on sat 2 feb 02


Althea, I would unhesitatingly encourage you to buy a Venco 3 inch de-airer.
It is expensive, but you only get what you pay for.

In addition, you need never knead clay again. Your thumb joints will last
much longer!

100 mm length, 4 inches, of the pug is equal to 400 grams of clay (depending
on water content of course).

The top of my clay box is webbed in 100 mm squares. So I just roll the top
of the box over the pug of clay and cut off 1 for a coffee mug or small
bowl, up to 5 for a large plate.

It makes calculation of clay simple, adapted to you own methods of course.

Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Updated 27th January 2002

Ron Collins on wed 18 sep 02


His Question:

> Can a claybody be mixed like a glaze or must a pugmill be used...
> Thanks in advance.
>
> While I would give my left something for a pugmill, it is not at all
necessary, and you can mix up small buckets, also, to try things...just dry
out on fabric piece and wedge....you learn by doing. Mix up like glaze,
and add dry to water, not other way around, but use a lot less water.!!! or
you will have some sort of slip/glaze anyway !!! and will take more drying
out....
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

flatearth on wed 23 oct 02


Hi,

We are looking for augger parts for a Weiland, 220V, 3 phase pugmill.

If you have any parts or know where we might get any parts please let us =
know.

Thanks,


Michelle
Flat Eart Clay Works, Inc.
Wichita, KS

Roger Graham on tue 22 apr 03


For Annapoorna, who was asking about plans for constructing a pugmill. The
description in the Harry Davis textbook is 38 pages long, and gives a lot of
detail. Australian potter Des Howard converted these pages to PDF files
which you can download from his website (http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au)
Click on the CLAYART link there. Definitely worth a look.

If it helps, here are some more things to consider. The Harry Davis book
describes a heroic de-airing machine having a vacuum pump, a middle chamber
with shredder plates, and two different sets of blades on the auger. Not a
job for the faint hearted. But you can get excellent service from a much
simpler non-de-airing machine. I'm still using the first one I made, sixteen
years later.

The Harry Davis plans suggest using mild steel plate, cheap and available
everywhere. But unless the pugmill is in constant use, expect trouble with
the steel rusting in contact with damp clay. This can be a real nuisance. If
stainless steel offcuts are available, that's the way to go. No problem to
weld, and of course doesn't give trouble with rust.

Some commercial machines use cast aluminium alloy for the barrel. Looks very
neat, and seemed a good way to go when I made a second machine. I made
elaborate wooden patterns and produced some fine alloy castings. Machined
them to shape, and assembled a very handsome machine. BUT... about a year
later, began finding mysterious hard white bodies in the clay. Little white
refractory lumps about half the size of a wheat grain. They turned out to be
lumps of alumina hydrate (I think) from corrosion pits developing in the
alloy barrel. No apparent cure. We stripped the machine down and rebuilt in
stainless steel. Good ever since.

I can offer photographs and plans for this modest non-de-airing machine.
It's a tried and tested design . I've made three, and friends have made
copies just as good. Contact me off list if you think it might help.

Roger Graham, near Gerringong, Australia

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~rogergraham

John Rodgers on tue 22 apr 03


Hi Roger

Just checked your web page. Nice work!!
And Toolijooa!!!?? My kind of place!!

Regards pugmills, I simply cannot get the Harry Davis Pug Mill PDF
files on Des Howards website to download. As a matter of fact, they
don't even show on my computer screen in my Browser. I wondered if you
happend to have copies of those PDF files and could you send them to me.

Also, I am very interested in your pugmill information for your
non-de-airing pugmill. Would you please send that information as well. I
really want to try and build one of these, anyway.

Thanks,

John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL USA


Roger Graham wrote:

>For Annapoorna, who was asking about plans for constructing a pugmill. The
>description in the Harry Davis textbook is 38 pages long, and gives a lot of
>detail. Australian potter Des Howard converted these pages to PDF files
>which you can download from his website (http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au)
>Click on the CLAYART link there. Definitely worth a look.
>
>If it helps, here are some more things to consider. The Harry Davis book
>describes a heroic de-airing machine having a vacuum pump, a middle chamber
>with shredder plates, and two different sets of blades on the auger. Not a
>job for the faint hearted. But you can get excellent service from a much
>simpler non-de-airing machine. I'm still using the first one I made, sixteen
>years later.
>
>The Harry Davis plans suggest using mild steel plate, cheap and available
>everywhere. But unless the pugmill is in constant use, expect trouble with
>the steel rusting in contact with damp clay. This can be a real nuisance. If
>stainless steel offcuts are available, that's the way to go. No problem to
>weld, and of course doesn't give trouble with rust.
>
>Some commercial machines use cast aluminium alloy for the barrel. Looks very
>neat, and seemed a good way to go when I made a second machine. I made
>elaborate wooden patterns and produced some fine alloy castings. Machined
>them to shape, and assembled a very handsome machine. BUT... about a year
>later, began finding mysterious hard white bodies in the clay. Little white
>refractory lumps about half the size of a wheat grain. They turned out to be
>lumps of alumina hydrate (I think) from corrosion pits developing in the
>alloy barrel. No apparent cure. We stripped the machine down and rebuilt in
>stainless steel. Good ever since.
>
>I can offer photographs and plans for this modest non-de-airing machine.
>It's a tried and tested design . I've made three, and friends have made
>copies just as good. Contact me off list if you think it might help.
>
>Roger Graham, near Gerringong, Australia
>
>http://members.optusnet.com.au/~rogergraham
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>

Roger Graham on sun 27 apr 03


Revisiting the idea of home-made pugmills: I've had a number other requests
off list for pictures and/or plans. Flattered by all this attention, I've
taken some extra photos and put the ideas together with enough description
to make sense. Finally converted the whole document to a pdf file so it can
be emailed, pictures and all, whether or not the recipient has the same
word processor I've been using. Comes to about 400 kB, but not too long to
email.

Anybody else out there with a secret yearning to build a pugmill? Plain
vanilla, non de-airing, but the design works well. Needs moderate welding
skills and access to a lathe, but nothing too difficult. Just ask.

Roger Graham, near Gerringong, Australia

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~rogergraham

Kris Bliss on tue 15 jul 03


i think the peter pugger sounds like what you need. this thing is a =
dream, de-airing power wedger, recyle answer.

the customer support has been excellent.

good luck on your quest.=20
kris bliss in sunny anchorage.

Darryl on wed 2 mar 05


Any feedback on new 'Tsunami' pug from Axner?
Thanks!

Andie Plamondon on sun 3 jul 05


I am going to be teaching in a facility where there is a nice clay studio,
but no one there has touched it in some time.

They have a nice looking pugmill, and quite a lot of reclaim clay in watered
down buckets.

I have never used a pugmill -

This looks like the version I see in the Bailey catalog often -

I would appreciate it if comeone would email me off list at andiekc@dmv.com
& give me a basic play-by-play for using it.

Thanks!

:) Andie Plamondon
Handful of Earth Pottery
www.handfulofearth.com

john eden on sun 19 mar 06


Just to everyone know that the pugmill that was for sale in Arizona has
been sold.
Cheers, John

John Eden
University of Maine
Department of Art
5712 Carnegie Hall
Orono
ME 04469-5712
USA

LindaC on wed 22 mar 06


Has anyone tried the Axner clay company pugmill which
I believe is call the New Wave? What is the cheapest
de-airing pugmill for a single person studio that is
also efficient, easy to maintain/clean and does a good
job? Appreciate your input. Carpal tunnel veteran.

In a pottery I worked at long ago there was a huge, used
pugmill that was from the Red Wing Pottery in Minnesota.
It sat in a dank, dark basement that opened to the back
alley. The building had been a stable back in the day.
It was a wood building and burnt down after I'd left.
Was located down the street from Artists Quarter, Little
Tiajuana, Black Forest, just across from the Minneapolis
Institute of Art, down from the Swedish Institute of Art.
I worked hard and on Fridays would go stuff myself at the
all-you-can-eat salad bar at Red Barn. Warren McKenzie was
teaching at the U. of Minn. and I didn't know it! Ahhhh-
those were the days! linda/oh

Sally Guger on sat 6 may 06


I have a one month old "New Wave" pugmill by Axner for sale. It has had clay in it only once. The guy who ordered it is retiring and thought he'd leave a nice new pugmill for the next person, but I'm the one replacing him and I have a Peter Pugger already. The New Wave is explained on Axner's website- it's still under warranty, the asking price is $1800 OBO. Contact Sally at 608-963-6166, I'm in Wisconsin but shipping can be arranged.

I found I could say things with color and shapes that I couldn't say any other way --
things I had no words for. Georgia O'Keeffe



---------------------------------
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P Can on mon 16 aug 10


Thank you to all who commented on recommendations for (and against) certain
pugmills. One of the major brands (Bailey A-400 deairing) is on sale right
now. Regular price $4010--sale price $2995 until August 31. Not a
plug--just a "pug" fact. Made my decision for me...

Phyllis Canupp
Virginia Beach, VA

ken hankins on mon 8 nov 10


I have a walker pugmill for sale. It is in good shape except for a couple
bend blades. It has been sitting in my school studio for over ten years and
not being used. I feel it is too dangerous for students to use. One person
can control the use better.
I am in Westminster Maryland and it would be best if you came to pick it up=
,
look and carry it away. It would be a pain to ship. I am sure we can work
something out.
Previous talk on this list have said 1000.00 would be a good price for a
mill in working order.
Ken Hankins