Don Goodrich on sat 11 may 96
A few of you have inquired via private e-mail on this topic, so I'm
posting a description of my crude but effective class crusher in case anyone
else is interested.
I've used steel pipe fittings to fashion a rather deep mortar and pestle.
A 2" pipe cap is screwed onto one end of a foot-long 2" diameter pipe
nipple. This serves as a mortar. The pestle is a piece of 1" pipe with caps
at both ends, long enough to stick out of the other pipe when fully inserted
in it. Hardware stores often sell pipe nipples of this size. They're a foot
long to minimize the amount of glass that comes out when it's being pounded.
By crushing a few pieces of broken glass at a time, I can reduce a sizable
amount of it to rather small particle size in a short, but somewhat
labor-intensive time. It's important to USE A RESPIRATOR when doing this, as
it generates dust. To limit this, a cloth can be wrapped around the top of
the mortar, surrounding the pestle handle. Have the vacuum cleaner handy.
Gloves are also recommended. The shock of the pounding can be harder on the
hands than the glass is.
To separate out the really fine powder for use in inlays, I sieve it and
keep it in a separate container. Larger bits can be used for covering layers
(as described in an earlier posting) since they're going to melt and level
off anyway.
Thanks to everyone who inquired. I know there are better glass
pulverizers, but it's hard to imagine a cheaper one.
--Don in Zion, IL, where the 5th thunderstorm of the week is finally over.
Donald Goldsobel on sat 11 may 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> A few of you have inquired via private e-mail on this topic, so I'm
>posting a description of my crude but effective class crusher in case anyone
>else is interested.
> I've used steel pipe fittings to fashion a rather deep mortar and pestle.
> A 2" pipe cap is screwed onto one end of a foot-long 2" diameter pipe
>nipple. This serves as a mortar. The pestle is a piece of 1" pipe with caps
>at both ends, long enough to stick out of the other pipe when fully inserted
>in it. Hardware stores often sell pipe nipples of this size. They're a foot
>long to minimize the amount of glass that comes out when it's being pounded.
> By crushing a few pieces of broken glass at a time, I can reduce a sizable
>amount of it to rather small particle size in a short, but somewhat
>labor-intensive time. It's important to USE A RESPIRATOR when doing this, as
>it generates dust. To limit this, a cloth can be wrapped around the top of
>the mortar, surrounding the pestle handle. Have the vacuum cleaner handy.
> Gloves are also recommended. The shock of the pounding can be harder on the
>hands than the glass is.
> To separate out the really fine powder for use in inlays, I sieve it and
>keep it in a separate container. Larger bits can be used for covering layers
>(as described in an earlier posting) since they're going to melt and level
>off anyway.
> Thanks to everyone who inquired. I know there are better glass
>pulverizers, but it's hard to imagine a cheaper one.
> --Don in Zion, IL, where the 5th thunderstorm of the week is finally over.
>
>Don: the easiest way I've found
to keep the glass from flying and the dust down is to put a pair of
discarded panty hose over the mortar. I have used a plastic bucket and a
baseball bat, being they were readily available. The results were very
acceptale.
Donald Goldsobel
BobWicks@aol.com on mon 20 may 96
Don:
I do my grinding in water. It eliminates dust and also protects your eyes
from flying pieces. You might like to try it.
Bob
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