RB & LA Klopper on sat 23 mar 96
>From: RB & LA Klopper
>Subject: Purple Glaze
>
>Hello John,
>
>I have a purple glaze that I use quite a lot and it is very popular.
>
>Cone 8-10
>
>Soda Feldspar 15
>Potash Feldspar 15
>Calcite 15
>Ball Clay 15
>Silica 30
>Dolomite 10
>Bentonite 2 (I always use bentonite in my glazes)
>Copper Carb. .50
>Cobalt Carb. .25
>
>The original glaze was with out the copper & cobalt and was supposed to be
a chun over ironbearing clays, but my result of that was white. So I added
the copper and cobalt to see what happened and I got a wonderful mauve that
breaks to a red in strong reduction. The application need to be quite thick.
I hope you can use this glaze.
Lorraine.
Go Ahead Make My Clay!
>
>
Russell and Lorraine Klopper Phone 619-3396067
38 Allen Street Fax 619-3361133
East Fremantle
Western Australia E-Mail klopper@iinet.net.au
Carol Ratliff.clayart.CLAYART.MAILING LIST on tue 28 jan 97
Does anyone have a good cone 6 purple glaze that they wouldn't mind sharing?
I prefer a glossy surface and am firing primiarily in electric. Thanks
Carol in sunny San Diego
jpyle@hs.gettysburg.edu on wed 29 jan 97
This was on Clayart a while ago:
EGGPLANT
soda spar 45.7
flint 15.2
talc 12.7
gerstley borate 12.9
dolomite 9.0
EPK
add
bentonite 1.0
cobalt carb. 2.0
manganese carb. 5.0
BECCA on wed 29 jan 97
Here is a nice purple glaze that was posted on clayart not too long ago.
Egg Plant Semigloss
Soda Feldspar 46
Flint 15
Talc 13
Gerstly Borate 13
Dolomite 9
Epk 4.5
Bentonite 1
Colbalt Carb. 2
Manganese Carb. 5
It is an extreemly nice glaze. Give it a few tests first though. It is a lighter
Good Luck!
Rebecca Huston
Squeaky745 on thu 30 jan 97
Do you know what cone this glaze is?
jpyle@hs.gettysburg.edu on sat 1 feb 97
Sorry. Cone 6 Oxidation. Sorry.
Judy
David B. Buck on sat 8 feb 97
Carol Ratliff.clayart.CLAYART.MAILING LIST wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Does anyone have a good cone 6 purple glaze that they wouldn't mind sharing?
> I prefer a glossy surface and am firing primiarily in electric. Thanks
>
> Carol in sunny San Diego
I have a deep purple glase, cone 6, from the Nepean Sports Plex A/V
centre near Ottawa, Ontario. I fire it to cone 6 in an Alouette Kiln.
Last year Lois Romanow fired a giant pot I had made the year before at a
Robert Compton workshop in Vermont. I think the pot was fired to cone 7
or 8 and the atmosphere may have been reducing. The glaze came out
great. Its formula follows:
Deep Purple
-----------
Gerstley Borate 8.32
Whiting 11.87
Nepheline Syenite 14.17
Flint(Silica) 32.28
Kingman Cluster 26.66
Lithium 3.6
Magnesium 1.69
Cobalt Carbonate .6
Tin Oxide 4.8
Chrome .17
Bentonite 2.0
Carol I hope this helps.
David B. Buck
Nepean, Ontario
jennifer reilly on thu 10 apr 97
Does anyone have any purple galze recipes that they are willing to
share????? Sorry if someone hase already asked a similar question, I am new
and I can't figure out how to find past articles.
jenn
Dannon Rhudy on fri 11 apr 97
Jenn-
I have two, cone 9-10 reduction. One gloss, one semi-matt. Both
VERY purple. There have been many many posts re:purple glazes.
If you can't get into archives to search, I'll send these to you.
PLEASE add your email address to signature; otherwise even things
that have been there ad nauseum have to be posted to the whole
list.
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
Does anyone have any purple galze recipes that they are willing to
share????? Sorry if someone hase already asked a similar
question, I am new
and I can't figure out how to find past articles.
jenn
jennifer reilly on sat 12 apr 97
I have found all the purple galzes on the internet and have tested all of
them! If these 2 glazes are of the internet just give me the name and I can
tell you if I tryed them.
Thank you
jreilly@wiznet.ca
At 11:10 AM 11/04/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>Jenn-
>
>I have two, cone 9-10 reduction. One gloss, one semi-matt. Both
>VERY purple. There have been many many posts re:purple glazes.
>If you can't get into archives to search, I'll send these to you.
>
>PLEASE add your email address to signature; otherwise even things
>that have been there ad nauseum have to be posted to the whole
>list.
>
>Dannon Rhudy
>potter@koyote.com
>
Tony Hansen on sun 13 apr 97
> The glaze was 45% Barium and 10% frit. The glaze looked
> awesome but I can't find the frit because Ferro doesn't make it anymore.
> Does anyone know were I can find it or a substitute???????Frit 3289(ferro).
That frit has barium also!
FRIT 3289 - LEADLESS BARIUM
BaO....... 27.40% [ 0.67]
Na2O...... 5.50% [ 0.33]
B2O3...... 12.40% 0.67
Al2O3..... 5.40% 0.20
SiO2...... 49.30% 3.07
======
For partially fritted tile glazes with bright or satin finish.
Sub: Fusion F-65, Pemco P-626
See also Ferro Frit CC-257 Barium Frit.
--
=================================================================
Tony Hansen, IMC thansen@mlc.awinc.com
INSIGHT5/Magic of Fire II demos at www.ceramicsoftware.com
gemini53 on mon 29 mar 99
This is a glaze I have had great success with firing to cone 9, in an =
electric
kiln. The fired ware has a soft and buttery feel to it. The purple is, =
well,
purple. I have used this glaze on a stoneware clay I purchase from =
Highwater
Clays in Asheville, NC, called Phoenix. Phoenix fires to an almost white in
oxidation. I also use Highwater's Aurora, which fires to a buff in =
oxidation.
I fire both to cone 9. This glaze comes out the same on each, purple. =
This
glaze will fire to cone 10 but comes out blue with the glaze breaking to a =
very
dark intense purple, and becomes shiney. Not the shiney of overfiring =
though.
So if you want a real purple, fire to cone 9.
The base glaze goes as follows:
Waxy Matte White
pot spar 41.0
flint 20.0
talc 15.0
gerst. borate 12.0
dolomite 7.0
epk 5.0
for Purple add to the above
mang. dioxide 3.0
cobalt oxide 1.0
Also, very important, to a achieve a really nice purple, this glaze must be
applied thickly. If you don't, you get blue. I dip my ware twice in this =
glaze
to get it thick enough.
Regards from,
Sheron Roberts (nervously venturing forth into the world of ClayArt, from NC
where spring has sprung)
Red Hawk Studios
Whiteville, NC
gemini53=40weblnk.net
David Hendley on thu 22 apr 99
Forget about that $15 a pound stain for a general studio
glaze. Just get a high magnesium glaze that works
well, with the surface and texture you want, and add
cobalt carbonate. About 1/2 to 1% would be good,
and a little rutile might make it more interesting.
This is actually better than using a stain, because you
get varied and often unexpected results when the
cobalt purple glaze is overlapped with other glazes.
Unfortunately, I don't write ad copy for Land's End or
Pottery Barn, so I can't tell you if your glaze will be "plum",
"lavender", "grape", "violet", or "eggplant", but it will
dang sure be purple.
Run a couple of line blends and you'll come up with a good
color.....
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com
At 11:33 PM 4/20/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>We have a glaze in the Art Center where I work part time. The five
>gallon bucket has lasted three years. Now that is all but gone,
>everyone has decided that they particularly like this glaze in
>combination with a couple of other glazes. Unfortunately, the previous
>lab technician did not leave a formula. It has the nice generic name of
>"Purple". Being male, I know red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple,
>brown and black. I'm told that this is a "lavender" kind of purple.
>Whatever. I do not have a clue how to make this color. We fire to cone
>5-6 oxidation. Well, actually I might have a little clue, I found some
>"Pansy Purple" Mason stain in one of the cupboards. I hate the thought
>of mixing up a five gallon bucket of glaze using mason stain as a
>colorant. This one is around $15.00 per lb. The book says it's only
>good to 2300 F. I'm a little reluctant to spend that kind of money.
>Is there another way to get this color? Any ideas?
>Thanks,
>Earl Brunner
>
Evan Dresel on sat 24 apr 99
Guys: Don't sell yourselves short. Yes, you may think you only know
red, yellow, green, blue, orange, purple, brown, black, and white; but
you can always add the universal color-modifier if those don't seem
quite right. If it ain't "purple", it's "kinda purple" :->
Evan in W. Richland WA where the asparagus is just coming in. Going to
pickle a batch this year.
David Hendley wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Forget about that $15 a pound stain for a general studio
> glaze. Just get a high magnesium glaze that works
> well, with the surface and texture you want, and add
> cobalt carbonate. About 1/2 to 1% would be good,
> and a little rutile might make it more interesting.
> This is actually better than using a stain, because you
> get varied and often unexpected results when the
> cobalt purple glaze is overlapped with other glazes.
>
> Unfortunately, I don't write ad copy for Land's End or
> Pottery Barn, so I can't tell you if your glaze will be "plum",
> "lavender", "grape", "violet", or "eggplant", but it will
> dang sure be purple.
> Run a couple of line blends and you'll come up with a good
> color.....
>
> David Hendley
> Maydelle, Texas
> hendley@tyler.net
> http://www.farmpots.com
>
> At 11:33 PM 4/20/99 EDT, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >We have a glaze in the Art Center where I work part time. The five
> >gallon bucket has lasted three years. Now that is all but gone,
> >everyone has decided that they particularly like this glaze in
> >combination with a couple of other glazes. Unfortunately, the previous
> >lab technician did not leave a formula. It has the nice generic name of
> >"Purple". Being male, I know red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple,
> >brown and black. I'm told that this is a "lavender" kind of purple.
> >Whatever. I do not have a clue how to make this color. We fire to cone
> >5-6 oxidation. Well, actually I might have a little clue, I found some
> >"Pansy Purple" Mason stain in one of the cupboards. I hate the thought
> >of mixing up a five gallon bucket of glaze using mason stain as a
> >colorant. This one is around $15.00 per lb. The book says it's only
> >good to 2300 F. I'm a little reluctant to spend that kind of money.
> >Is there another way to get this color? Any ideas?
> >Thanks,
> >Earl Brunner
> >
Michael Banks on sun 25 apr 99
Not absolutely so, Ruth.
Some high-alumina matt glazes can produce good purple, lavender and lilac.
I've had good results with cobalt in Daniel Rhodes' Eggshell Matt, albeit a
cone 9-10 glaze (mentioned on Clayart from time to time). It has 0.49 mol
alumina in its flux-unity formula and only 0.28 magnesia.
Michael Banks,
Nelson,
New Zealand
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Ruth Ballou wrote:
The purple/magnesium relationship is also dependent on a low alumina
content, somewhere around .2 to .3 moles. Cobalt will turn blue as the
alumina increases. Silica content does not have an impact on the color....
(Snip)
Crawling is a problem with high magnesia glazes, when the source is light
magnesium carbonate. Try to use dolomite or talc as the source for at least
part of the MgO. Some magnesium carbonate will help keep the glaze in
suspension.
Ruth Ballou on mon 26 apr 99
Gee, Michael,
Both guidelines shot down in a single glaze! Just goes to prove my personal
rule that there are no rules .
I base my understanding of the interaction of MgO and Cobalt on the
experiments I have done from Ian Currie's book. The .5 Magnesium set
clearly shows cobalt/purple in the low alumina quadrant, gradually giving
over to blue as the alumina increases.
I am not familar with Rhodes' Eggshell Matt and can't find it in any of my
books. Could you post the recipe? For my own education, I'm curious if
there is any other explanation for what's going on. Do you think the firing
is important with this type of glaze?
In the meantime, I've found some other purple glazes that have been posted
to Clayart in the past. (They should be in the archives if anybody is
interested.) They're all remarkably similar, on the molecular level, with
additions of zinc or frit in some to accomodate a lower firing temperature.
Emily Purple ^9-10 and Eggplant Semigloss ^6 are two examples.
Curiouser and curiouser,
Ruth
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Not absolutely so, Ruth.
>
>Some high-alumina matt glazes can produce good purple, lavender and lilac.
>
>I've had good results with cobalt in Daniel Rhodes' Eggshell Matt, albeit a
>cone 9-10 glaze (mentioned on Clayart from time to time). It has 0.49 mol
>alumina in its flux-unity formula and only 0.28 magnesia.
>
>Michael Banks,
>Nelson,
>New Zealand
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Ruth Ballou wrote:
>
>The purple/magnesium relationship is also dependent on a low alumina
>content, somewhere around .2 to .3 moles. Cobalt will turn blue as the
>alumina increases. Silica content does not have an impact on the color....
>(Snip)
>
>Crawling is a problem with high magnesia glazes, when the source is light
>magnesium carbonate. Try to use dolomite or talc as the source for at least
>part of the MgO. Some magnesium carbonate will help keep the glaze in
>suspension.
Michael Banks on tue 27 apr 99
Ruth,
The one that I've used and which I quoted the flux unity alumina and
magnesia molar proportions for, gives lovely violets with additions of
cobalt. It has been slightly adjusted for local materials:
C9-10 Alumina Matt
Australian Potash Feldspar 49
Whiting (NZ) 3.5
Dolomite (NZ) 22.5
Premium China Clay (NZ) 25
It is derived from Daniel Rhodes' book "Clay and Glazes for the Potter",
Pitman, 1957, p213:
Oxford Spar 48.9
Kaolin 25.1
Dolomite 22.4
Whiting 3.5
Seems there are at least 3 other "Eggshell Matt" type glazes floating about,
but they're very similar to Rhodes recipe. The original is credited to
Calton Ball.
The following recipe for this was posted by Harriet Colman on Clayart on 21
February 1999:
Viz: The recipe in Calton Ball's Book is as follows:
PM 5 Eggshell Mat cone 10
Feldspar 1512
Dolomite 504
Whiting 84
Kaolin 700
for colors add:
Tan RIO 70
Pale violet blue Cobalt oxide 7
Gray Manganese Dioxide 140
Another similar one was posted by Dipali Shah on 13 March, 1999, viz:
Potash Feldspar 49
China Clay 25
Dolomite 22
Whiting 4
I guess this high Al/Si glaze and its variations are the exception which
proves the rule, that high Mg and low Al are "normally" likely to give good
violets with cobalt.
Michael
Michael Banks,
Nelson,
New Zealand
Ruth Ballou wrote:
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Gee, Michael,
Both guidelines shot down in a single glaze! Just goes to prove my personal
rule that there are no rules .
I base my understanding of the interaction of MgO and Cobalt on the
experiments I have done from Ian Currie's book. The .5 Magnesium set
clearly shows cobalt/purple in the low alumina quadrant, gradually giving
over to blue as the alumina increases.
I am not familar with Rhodes' Eggshell Matt and can't find it in any of my
books. Could you post the recipe? For my own education, I'm curious if
there is any other explanation for what's going on. Do you think the firing
is important with this type of glaze?
In the meantime, I've found some other purple glazes that have been posted
to Clayart in the past. (They should be in the archives if anybody is
interested.) They're all remarkably similar, on the molecular level, with
additions of zinc or frit in some to accomodate a lower firing temperature.
Emily Purple ^9-10 and Eggplant Semigloss ^6 are two examples.
Curiouser and curiouser,
Ruth
Sheldon Bieber on tue 27 jun 00
Hi,
Does anyone have a good cone 10 reduction puple glaze? I have been
trying without luck to get a bright purple either semi-matte or glassy.
Thanks, Shel
Dave Finkelnburg on wed 28 jun 00
Shel,
David has listed the basics very well. I would add that in my
experience the purple obtained from magnesium/cobalt is somewhat different
than the copper/cobalt route. In general the copper/cobalt yields a maroon
purple. It tends to the red side of purple. The magnesium/cobalt can be
everything from a really wild neon grape to a pale lavender, depending on
the recipe and the amount of cobalt. So which route you explore should
depend on what kind of purple you seek. Good glazing!
Dave Finkelnburg, trying to ignore the roar across the road from the
borate bombers fighting the range fire which is, fortunately, burning away
from us!
-----Original Message-----
From: David Hendley
>Hello Shel, you probably would like a recipe for
>a purple glaze. You won't get that from me, but here are
>3 ways to make a purple cone 10 reduction glaze:
>
>1-easiest. Buy some purple stain and put it in a base
>glaze that you already use and like. Try about 2% for
>a light tint, to 10% for a saturated color. You can be
>pretty sure the color of the glaze will be the same as
>the color of the stain.
>
>2-a little more work. Put cobalt carbonate in a glaze base
>that is high in magnesium. Magnesium turns cobalt purple.
>This is especially good with a high-magnesia matt base,
>such as Rhodes #32 (from 'Clay & Glazes for the Potter').
>If you can do glaze calculation,look for a glaze with .30 or
>more molecular equivalents of magnesium.
>If you just look at recipes, look for a glaze with a lot of
>talc and/or dolomite and/or magnesium carbonate.
>Try 1/2 to 1 1/2% cobalt carbonate.
>
>3- hard, but makes beautiful glazes. Add a tiny bit of cobalt
>to a copper red glaze. This is good for a glossy purple glaze,
>but, of course, if your copper red doesn't come out red, this
>glaze will not come out purple.Try 1/2% or less cobalt carbonate.
>
>happy glaze testing,
>--
>David Hendley
>Maydelle, Texas
>hendley@tyler.net
>http://www.farmpots.com/
Michelle Lowe on wed 28 jun 00
At 05:51 PM 6/27/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Does anyone have a good cone 10 reduction puple glaze? I have been
>trying without luck to get a bright purple either semi-matte or glassy.
We've been using a couple different purple glazes at cone 9/10 lately, but
depending on the temp you fire to, and your clay, they may come out more
blue at times for you. Emily Purple is deeper blue at cone 10 with a
slight purple frost, more purple at cone 9, sometimes almost a flat purple
semi matt. Waxy Lavendar is lighter in tone and almost always lavendar, but
I have seen it go slightly blue (beautiful) at cone 10 on certain clays.
Anyway, here are the recipes. good luck!
Glaze Name: Emily G. Purple (has anyone revised this w/o gerstley yet?)
cone: 9
color:
surface:matt
firing:Untested
date: 6/3/96
recipe:
41.00 Potash Feldspar
12.00 Colemanite
7.00 Dolomite
15.00 Talc
5.00 Tennessee #5 Ball Clay
20.00 Silica
100.00 % Totals:
Also add:
2.00 Cobalt Oxide
2.00 Bentonite
2.00 Tin Oxide
************
Glaze name: Waxy Lavendar
Cone: 10
Color: Opaque Purple to lavender
Testing: Untested
Surface texture: Semi-Matte or Satin
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Mg
Recipe: Percent
Frit 3124 35.59
G-200 feldspar 26.51
SGP Ball Clay 2.99
Talc 24.63
Lithium Carbonate 1.98
Flint 8.29
Totals: 100.00 %
Also add:
Zircopax 5.00
cobalt carbonate 1.00
bentonite 2.00
epsom salts 0.25 - 0.50
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@amug.org -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
____ |
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
David Hendley on wed 28 jun 00
Hello Shel, you probably would like a recipe for
a purple glaze. You won't get that from me, but here are
3 ways to make a purple cone 10 reduction glaze:
1-easiest. Buy some purple stain and put it in a base
glaze that you already use and like. Try about 2% for
a light tint, to 10% for a saturated color. You can be
pretty sure the color of the glaze will be the same as
the color of the stain.
2-a little more work. Put cobalt carbonate in a glaze base
that is high in magnesium. Magnesium turns cobalt purple.
This is especially good with a high-magnesia matt base,
such as Rhodes #32 (from 'Clay & Glazes for the Potter').
If you can do glaze calculation,look for a glaze with .30 or
more molecular equivalents of magnesium.
If you just look at recipes, look for a glaze with a lot of
talc and/or dolomite and/or magnesium carbonate.
Try 1/2 to 1 1/2% cobalt carbonate.
3- hard, but makes beautiful glazes. Add a tiny bit of cobalt
to a copper red glaze. This is good for a glossy purple glaze,
but, of course, if your copper red doesn't come out red, this
glaze will not come out purple.Try 1/2% or less cobalt carbonate.
happy glaze testing,
--
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Sheldon Bieber
To:
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 4:51 PM
Subject: purple glaze
| Hi,
| Does anyone have a good cone 10 reduction puple glaze? I have been
| trying without luck to get a bright purple either semi-matte or glassy.
| Thanks, Shel
|
|
ejudd@MOOSE-MAIL.COM on tue 6 nov 01
Hi All!
I am looking for a nice, deep purple glaze, Cone 10, Reduction firing.
I've searched the archives already.
Also, is there such a thing as a glaze with purple/orange tones? Or
am I nuts?
I am a glaze newbie, please be patient with me! :)
Peace!
Elizabeth
Dannon Rhudy on wed 7 nov 01
At 09:47 PM 11/06/2001 -0000, you wrote:
>I am looking for a nice, deep purple glaze, Cone 10, Reduction firing.
>I've searched the archives already.
>Also, is there such a thing as a glaze with purple/orange tones? Or
>am I nuts?........
If you've searched the archives already, you must have
found the dozens of purple Cone 10 glazes that have been
posted over time. Many of them are quite good. Try them
on your clay. My experience is that purples look best over
white or light colored clays, except the for the matt purples,
which are about the same on either, give or take a few
iron freckles.
At cone 10 reduction I do not believe there are any purple
glazes with orange tones. Lots of orange glazes, though.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Fabienne Micheline Cassman on wed 7 nov 01
At 09:47 PM 11/06/2001 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi All!
>I am looking for a nice, deep purple glaze, Cone 10, Reduction firing.
Elizabeth,
I didn't have to worry about whether or not it was food safe or not since I
never used it for functional ware. Maybe someone on the list who watches
that kind of stuff could give us an idea. Otherwise, enjoy it. :)
Cone 9/10R Emily Purple
41 Potash Feldspar
12 Colemanite
7 Dolomite
15 Talc
5 Ball Clay (OM#4)
20 Flint
Add:
2 Bentonite
2 Cobalt Carbonate
2 Tin oxide
Fabienne http://www.milkywayceramics.com/
WARNING: I cannot be held responsible for the above
because my cats have apparently learned to type.
John & Susan Balentine on wed 7 nov 01
Hi Elizabeth,
Got a nice glaze for you. And yes it does break a rusty orange on
the rims and texture. Especially if you use it over a shino. Sorry
about that Dannon-there is a glaze having both colors. Just be sure and
use this glaze on the thick side. It is very stable. I have never seen
it run. Good reduction will produce a bluish tint where it is thick.
The color is that of an eggplant. Here it is:
Serene Blue
Custer feldspar----1000
Gerstly Borate-----160
Whiting------------200
Flint---------------420
Strontium-----------15
Kaolin(EPK)-------160
Red Iron ox.--------80
Rutile---------------40
Zinc ox.-------------20
This is a 2000 gram batch-a good testing amount. I am currrently using
this glaze with some red glazes. Pretty effects so far. I am reading
all the copper red posts carefully. Thanks for all the sharing that
always goes on here. Susan in the mountains of NC --can't believe this
warm weather we are having still
chris clarke on thu 8 nov 01
My way of getting a purple glaze is not by using a purple glaze. I use a
sort'a opaque copper red and a clear blue. Just spray the blue glaze over
top of the red and walla, purple with depth and varying color. But it's got
to be a clear blue and the glazes have to like each other. = )
chris
temecula, california
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
Ron Roy on thu 8 nov 01
Hi Fabienne,
This looks like it will be durable - don't have a lot of data for cone 10
glazes yet - but I would not worry about it on the inside of pots.
The expansion is on the low side - will not craze on most porcelains - I
would be concerned if it were on the type of stoneware body that develops a
lot of cristobalite - like med to high iron with not enough spar and free
silica added.
I can elaborate on this if anyone is wondering.
RR
>I didn't have to worry about whether or not it was food safe or not since I
>never used it for functional ware. Maybe someone on the list who watches
>that kind of stuff could give us an idea. Otherwise, enjoy it. :)
>
>Cone 9/10R Emily Purple
>
>41 Potash Feldspar
>12 Colemanite
> 7 Dolomite
>15 Talc
> 5 Ball Clay (OM#4)
>20 Flint
>
>Add:
>
>2 Bentonite
>2 Cobalt Carbonate
>2 Tin oxide
Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513
Ron Roy on thu 8 nov 01
I'm not sure how durable this glaze will be - hi alumina and the silica is
almost too low if the zinc is still there after the reduction. If the ZnO
is gone then the picture changes - alumina is higher and so is the silica.
I can't be sure because alumina is hard to melt and melt is an important
factor in durability.
Do the vinegar test first.
This glaze should be tested without the ZnO - it may not be needed.
RR
>Serene Blue
>
>Custer feldspar----1000
>Gerstly Borate-----160
>Whiting------------200
>Flint---------------420
>Strontium-----------15
>Kaolin(EPK)-------160
>Red Iron ox.--------80
>Rutile---------------40
>Zinc ox.-------------20
Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513
Lyn Peelle on fri 1 nov 02
I'm looking for a gloss purple cone 5-6 oxidation glaze-----if there is such
an animal. Anyone have a recipe or an idea where to find one?
Thanks----Lyn
June Perry on fri 1 nov 02
Lyn, take any high magnesia, gloss or semi gloss glaze base and add 1-3%
cobalt oxide and you'll get lavendar on the lower end and purple with the
higher percentage of cobalt. You can probably use a nice gloss clear and use
a purple Mason stain as another method of getting purple. The cobalt in a
high magnesia glaze would be more cost effective.
You can also take Lana Wilsons chrome red and try adding a bit of cobalt to
it. It may or may not work to give you a purple; but it's worth a try.
For the heck of it I used my Insight 5 software and came up with this base,
which gives the highest amount of magnesia as recommended for a C6-7 glaze:
#8308 June's Perry's C6-7 glossy base
NEPHELINE SYENITE 35.2
TALC 8.0
WHITING 15.6
SPODUMENE 5.0
OM #4 BALL CLAY 3.0
SILICA 33.2
You could also use this to test some Mason stains. I avoided using zinc oxide
since many Mason stains stipulate a base without zinc and with 15% whiting,
which I have also included in this recipe.
This is just a theoretical glaze (haven't tested it). If you decide to try
it, let me know if it works or doesn't.
It's within all the C6-7 limits and it will be glossy. (The silica:alumina
ration is 10.51 and the Expansion is 6.88 )
Also, there should be purple glaze recipes in the archives. I know there was
a purple matt in there and you could probably make that a gloss by lowering
the clay content and upping the silica.
If I can find it, and find the time, I'll try to do that.
Regards,
June Perry
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/index.html
Sandy Cryer on sat 2 nov 02
I got a very nice dark purple glaze (kinda eggplant color), by adding 1%
cobalt carbinate and 0.25% RIO to ron/john's "raspberry" glaze in Mastering
Cone 6 Glazes.
This was tested on Laguna's redstone clay and WS-4.
Sandy Cryer who has been looking for a dark purple glaze for 10 years.
Ababi on sat 2 nov 02
Hi!
Two glazes ^6
violet^6
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
NEPHELINE SYENI 41.40 40.59%
DOLOMITE............ 11.70 11.47%
MAGNESIUM CAR. 5.40 5.29%
WHITING............. 4.50 4.41%
QUARTZ.............. 27.00 26.47%
GERSTLEY B.... 10.00 9.80%
*COBALT CARBON 2.00 1.96%
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
102.00
CaO 0.39*
MgO 0.34*
K2O 0.06*
Na2O 0.21*
SrO 0.00*
Al2O3 0.25
B2O3 0.11
SiO2 2.32
Fe2O3 0.00
Si:Al 9.10
SiB:Al 9.53
Expan 7.56
Notes:
FROM ^10
from a recipe of Ruth Ballou rballou@bellatlantic.net
Here I copy from the ceramic web. The next glaze I make with different in=
gredients
but the same formula. I don't sieve it, I mix it with a jiffy mixer& drill=
Here is the original recipe
Glaze Name: Emily's Blue
cone: 6
36.56 Custer Feldspar
19.35 Gerstley Borate
11.83 OM-4 Ball Clay
15.05 Talc
10.75 Silica
6.45 Dolomite
100.00 % Totals:
Also add:
4.30 Zircopax
3.23 Cobalt Carbonate
estimated thermal expansion: 70.11x10-7/=B0C
Unity Formula for Emily's Blue:
0.109 K2O 0.260 Al2O3 2.415 SiO2
0.096 Na2O 0.221 B2O3 0.005 TiO2
0.361 CaO 0.003 Fe2O3 9.3:1 Si:Al Ratio
0.434 MgO
Percentage Analysis for Emily's Blue:
59.98 % SiO2
10.96 % Al2O3
6.33 % B2O3
4.26 % K2O
2.48 % Na2O
8.36 % CaO
7.24 % MgO
0.21 % Fe2O3
0.17 % TiO2
submitted by: Rick Malmgren e-mail: r-malmgren@sjca.edu
Another option, use it as white and paint or use tooth brush with cobalt o=
xide make
purple dots or lines. Rick Malmgren called it blue, point of view. beautif=
ul matte
purple,violet.
You can see it
:http://members4.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/getImage.pl?imgID=3D2325961-c432&t=
rans=3D
Where thick lighter color when thin darker. In general lighter than on thi=
s slide, unless
you will use 4% cobalt oxide.
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
--------------------------------------------------------------------------=
------
though the alumina silica are like a glossy glaze, it is a matte glaze be=
cause of the
high magnesia.
---------- Original Message ----------
>I'm looking for a gloss purple cone 5-6 oxidation glaze-----if there is s=
uch
>an animal. Anyone have a recipe or an idea where to find one?
>Thanks----Lyn
>_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.
Chris Schafale on sat 2 nov 02
The only problem with June's approach is that a high magnesia
glaze at cone 6 is NOT going to be glossy!
Chris
> Lyn, take any high magnesia, gloss or semi gloss glaze base and add 1-3%
> cobalt oxide and you'll get lavendar on the lower end and purple with the
> higher percentage of cobalt. Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, USA
(south of Raleigh)
candle@intrex.net
http://www.lightonecandle.com
Ababi on sat 2 nov 02
This is the"cost" of this color!
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>The only problem with June's approach is that a high magnesia
>glaze at cone 6 is NOT going to be glossy!
>Chris
>> Lyn, take any high magnesia, gloss or semi gloss glaze base and add 1-3%
>> cobalt oxide and you'll get lavendar on the lower end and purple with the
>> higher percentage of cobalt. Light One Candle Pottery
>Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, USA
>(south of Raleigh)
>candle@intrex.net
>http://www.lightonecandle.com
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Paul Lewing on mon 4 nov 02
on 11/1/02 6:51 AM, Lyn Peelle at lppottery@QWEST.NET wrote:
> I'm looking for a gloss purple cone 5-6 oxidation glaze-----if there is such
> an animal. Anyone have a recipe or an idea where to find one?
The person who pointed out that you won't be able to make a glossy glaze at
cone 5-6 with enough magnesium in it to make purple was probably right. And
so was the person who suggested you use a commercial stain. To get that
color with a stain, you need a base glaze with no zinc and lots of calcium.
But I'd suggest you modify a chrome-tin pink glaze. By the way, the purple
stains are also chrome-tin. They usually produce a more magenta color than
you're probably looking for, but just add a little cobalt carbonate, maybe
1/4% to 1% for purple. I also like to add just a bit of iron oxide to
deepen the color. I use a recipe called Kemp Pink, which I found on
Clayart, but I'm sure there are others in the archives. Raspberry Glaze in
"Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" by John Hesselberth and Ron Roy would also work.
Happy testing.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Kenneth Chin-Purcell on fri 20 apr 07
I used to add 4% Mason Crimson stain (6006?) and 0.5% cobalt
carbonate to my cone 8 clear glaze for a purple.
-- Ken Chin-Purcell
www.bungalowpottery.com
On Apr 20, 2007, at 1:48 PM, John Connolly wrote:
> Hello, I need some help with coloring a glaze. A customer who
> purchased one of my heads has asked me to make another, but has
> requested it be in purple because that is the favorite color of the
> person she is gifting it to.
>
> I'm using a base glaze (^5) as follows:
>
> Kona Feldspar 40
> Gerstly Borate 35
> Ball Clay 15
> Silica 10
>
> I want to preserve the transparency in order to protect surface
> decoration. I hope one of you kind souls can help. The piece will
> be built with B-mix.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> John Connolly in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
> Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
John Connolly on fri 20 apr 07
Hello, I need some help with coloring a glaze. A customer who purchased one of my heads has asked me to make another, but has requested it be in purple because that is the favorite color of the person she is gifting it to.
I'm using a base glaze (^5) as follows:
Kona Feldspar 40
Gerstly Borate 35
Ball Clay 15
Silica 10
I want to preserve the transparency in order to protect surface decoration. I hope one of you kind souls can help. The piece will be built with B-mix.
John Connolly in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on sat 21 apr 07
On Apr 20, 2007, at 2:48 PM, John Connolly wrote:
> Hello, I need some help with coloring a glaze. A customer who
> purchased one of my heads has asked me to make another, but has
> requested it be in purple because that is the favorite color of the
> person she is gifting it to.
>
> I'm using a base glaze (^5) as follows:
>
> Kona Feldspar 40
> Gerstly Borate 35
> Ball Clay 15
> Silica 10
>
> I want to preserve the transparency in order to protect surface
> decoration. I hope one of you kind souls can help. The piece will
> be built with B-mix.
You can try any of the many purple stains on the market, in varying
amounts. Most of them will come up translucent instead of
transparent, but you will be able to see any detail or carving
underneath. Alternately, you can use a smaller amount of a crimson
stain and add a little bit of cobalt. You will have to test the
percentages to get the saturation you want. I use purple stains in a
clear base over carving, and it enhances the carving---it pools
darker in the recesses.
Lynn
Lynn Goodman
Fine Porcelain Pottery
Cell 347-526-9805
www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
John Connolly on sun 22 apr 07
"Wouldn't the amount of Gerstley Borate in this glaze make the glaze more
translucent or opaque than transparent? I say this because Lynn and I were
using the same base glaze, although mine had GB in it, and she adapted hers
to use a frit instead. My purple, while beautiful, was definitely NOT
transparent, while hers was."
I really appreciate the help you folks have given on the subject. I have to say that the base glaze is the best we have ever found for transparency at cone 5.
Now I have several routes to test for the best purple.
John Connolly in Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Lois Ruben Aronow on sun 22 apr 07
I agree with EVERYTHING that Lynn says, all the time, especially on issues
of stains and colorants, BUT:
Wouldn't the amount of Gerstley Borate in this glaze make the glaze more
translucent or opaque than transparent? I say this because Lynn and I were
using the same base glaze, although mine had GB in it, and she adapted hers
to use a frit instead. My purple, while beautiful, was definitely NOT
transparent, while hers was.
Just curious if this in indeed the case.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
> Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:53 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Purple glaze
>
> On Apr 20, 2007, at 2:48 PM, John Connolly wrote:
>
> > Hello, I need some help with coloring a glaze. A customer who
> > purchased one of my heads has asked me to make another, but has
> > requested it be in purple because that is the favorite color of the
> > person she is gifting it to.
> >
> > I'm using a base glaze (^5) as follows:
> >
> > Kona Feldspar 40
> > Gerstly Borate 35
> > Ball Clay 15
> > Silica 10
> >
> > I want to preserve the transparency in order to protect surface
> > decoration. I hope one of you kind souls can help. The
> piece will be
> > built with B-mix.
>
>
> You can try any of the many purple stains on the market, in
> varying amounts. Most of them will come up translucent
> instead of transparent, but you will be able to see any
> detail or carving underneath. Alternately, you can use a
> smaller amount of a crimson stain and add a little bit of
> cobalt. You will have to test the percentages to get the
> saturation you want. I use purple stains in a clear base over
> carving, and it enhances the carving---it pools darker in the
> recesses.
>
> Lynn
>
>
> Lynn Goodman
> Fine Porcelain Pottery
> Cell 347-526-9805
> www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on sun 22 apr 07
I actually started with Gerstley Borate instead of frit--I adapted
the glaze to use frit when Gerstley Borate was supposed to disappear
from the market a few years ago. I didn't notice any change in the
transparency. I do fire a bit cooler than Lois does (hi Lois!), and
apply it a bit thinner, and soak less; maybe this has some influence
over the transparency. Try a few stains, and try more than one brand
of stain-- there is a difference between stains in how they affect
the relative opacity of the glaze. You can also mix up the fluxes a
bit and try adding a bit of different frits or increase the alkaline
portion to increase transparency.
Lynn
On Apr 22, 2007, at 9:40 AM, Lois Ruben Aronow wrote:
> I agree with EVERYTHING that Lynn says, all the time, especially on
> issues
> of stains and colorants, BUT:
>
> Wouldn't the amount of Gerstley Borate in this glaze make the glaze
> more
> translucent or opaque than transparent? I say this because Lynn
> and I were
> using the same base glaze, although mine had GB in it, and she
> adapted hers
> to use a frit instead. My purple, while beautiful, was definitely NOT
> transparent, while hers was.
>
> Just curious if this in indeed the case.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
>> Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery
>> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:53 AM
>> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>> Subject: Re: Purple glaze
>>
>> On Apr 20, 2007, at 2:48 PM, John Connolly wrote:
>>
>>> Hello, I need some help with coloring a glaze. A customer who
>>> purchased one of my heads has asked me to make another, but has
>>> requested it be in purple because that is the favorite color of the
>>> person she is gifting it to.
>>>
>>> I'm using a base glaze (^5) as follows:
>>>
>>> Kona Feldspar 40
>>> Gerstly Borate 35
>>> Ball Clay 15
>>> Silica 10
>>>
>>> I want to preserve the transparency in order to protect surface
>>> decoration. I hope one of you kind souls can help. The
>> piece will be
>>> built with B-mix.
>>
>>
>> You can try any of the many purple stains on the market, in
>> varying amounts. Most of them will come up translucent
>> instead of transparent, but you will be able to see any
>> detail or carving underneath. Alternately, you can use a
>> smaller amount of a crimson stain and add a little bit of
>> cobalt. You will have to test the percentages to get the
>> saturation you want. I use purple stains in a clear base over
>> carving, and it enhances the carving---it pools darker in the
>> recesses.
>>
>> Lynn
>>
>>
>> Lynn Goodman
>> Fine Porcelain Pottery
>> Cell 347-526-9805
>> www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
Dave Finkelnburg on sun 22 apr 07
Lois,
I don't know why your glaze is not transparent and
I need some information to try to figure this out.
1. Can you tell us, were the frit and Gerstley borate
(GB) used in equal amounts by weight, or substituted
on a chemical basis?
2. Were the ramp rates similar in the two kilns,
including the cooling ramp?
3. Was the final firing temperature the same, and was
the cone fired to the same?
4. Were the glaze thickness, the clay body thickness
and the clay body itself similar in both cases?
5. Finally, were the same ball clays used?
I hope this doesn't sound like an inquisition,
because it sure isn't, but these are some of the
variables I consider important. I think you could
tell us most by making two sample glazes, one with GB,
the other with the frit, and firing them on your test
tiles in your kiln, keeping the causes of opacity in
mind.
Bubbles in a glaze can be the sole cause of
opacity. You can usually see them with a 10X hand
lens if they are the cause. The glass will be clear so
the bubbles are visible.
IF the glass is opaque, then you have something
else going on. With that much boron it can be phase
separation, and with slow enough cooling the second
phase particles can be large enough to scatter light
and cause opacity, but the particles will still be so
small you can't see them, even with a microscope!
My gut feel is there is more boron in your
version, and it may be applied thicker, or cooled
slower, or all three may be involved. Good potting!
Dave Finkelnburg
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2007 09:40:41 -0400
From: Lois Ruben Aronow
I agree with EVERYTHING that Lynn says, all the time,
especially on issues
of stains and colorants, BUT:
Wouldn't the amount of Gerstley Borate in this glaze
make the glaze more
translucent or opaque than transparent? I say this
because Lynn and I were
using the same base glaze, although mine had GB in it,
and she adapted hers
to use a frit instead. My purple, while beautiful,
was definitely NOT
transparent, while hers was.
> > Kona Feldspar 40
> > Gerstly Borate 35
> > Ball Clay 15
> > Silica 10
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