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question: chappell's breakthrough glazes

updated fri 28 feb 97

 

Jonathan Kirkendall on tue 25 feb 97

Hi! I wonder if anyone out there has used any of Chappell's cone 6 oxidation
"Breakthrough Glazes" (in the the Special Effect Glaze section of his book).
These glazes are basically a paired set: an Albany slip glaze goes on first,
then a mat or satin mat glaze goes on top. The bottom glaze "boils" through
the top glaze, producing a very mottled glaze with texture. I'd be
interested in anyone's experience, also to know if anyone has used a
substitute for Albany slip.
Jonathan in Yonkers (where, yes, the pots are getting taller and taller!)

Margaret Arial on wed 26 feb 97

I have not used Chappells boil through but did use Carlton Balls glazes both
gloss and mats with albany slip over and under for years until albany slip
became unavailable with joyous results both in cone 4-6 oxidation and
reduction (same ones) THE SIZE OF THE BOIL THRU SPOTS VARIED BY WHICH WENT ON
FIRST.The glazes were gotten from Ball and Loovos' book with a title like
PotteryWithout a Wheel, I seem to remember (My studio was ransacked ,robbed,
vandalized and much stolden- including notebooks and rolodexes, a few years
ago ;and since albany wasn't available, I never bothered to reconstruct the
results.
Margaret in South Carolina

Doug Gray on wed 26 feb 97

Jonathan,
I have achieved similar effects by layering heavy iron bearing slip
and clear or white glazes. The iron slip would be applied to
greenware, before bisque firing. Then the glaze, (I use Leach White)
would be applied as usual to the bisque piece and then fired again. (I
fire c9) The iron slip breaks through the glazes in wonderful dark
pools and spots, with the intensity determined by the thickness of the
slip, the amount of iron in the slip and the thickness of the glaze
over top. A lot of variables, I know, but I suppose all of these
could be worked out more scientifically if you wanted very even
predictable results. Part of the fun, for me anyway, is the random
surface that is produced.

I've tried applying the iron to bisqueware as a stain, and then
applying the glaze, but it seems to react to the glaze as a colorant
addition giving greens and only occassionally the dark spots I was
after. It also seemed to have a much stronger fluxing action on the
glass. With the iron in the slip, it doen't flux the glaze as much
and I have had little to no problems with the glaze running.

Doug Gray
Alpine, TX