Baker/Orion on thu 11 sep 97
We often enjoy excellent results quick-drying clay -- often the slabs and
formed architectural components we build reach 1-1/2" thick (or more!).
Quick drying generally works best when pieces have even wall thickness, but
mixed-thickness pieces can survive, too, if shrinkage is managed
aggressively.
It seems that the principal key to success is keeping pieces free to
contract wherever they contact forms or work surfaces (drywall, worktables,
bats, etc.). Using grog or sand on the contact-side of slabs or tile helps
a lot. But we've had our most consistent success using cloth as a
shrinkage liner (it can actually "give" or "ease," puckering-up under the
work as it shrinks).
My favorite flat shrinkage "liner" is cloth -- I buy cheap (single flat)
bed sheets at discount stores when they're on sale ($2.99 each). I keep a
couple of full-sized sheets to line work tables before we begin a big
project. We've ripped a number of sheets into quarters or smaller for
lining or covering pots and sculptural work in progress. (TIP: placing a
light cloth liner over your work BEFORE putting plastic over it will
prevent sticking and wet spots on your work -- you can dampen or spray the
cloth to add moisture without washing the clay away from grog in the
body...)
When we're laying clay over plastic covered forms, we've started using
cheesecloth dusted with grog (don't tape it to the form -- just let it
"float" freely). The cloth will burn out in the bisque (your kiln must be
WELL VENTED if you use burn-out methods!).
'Happy to correspond more about any of these tricks with anyone directly!
Ellen Baker - Orion, Glacier, WA
orion@telcomplus.com
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