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raku glazing

updated tue 8 jul 03

 

Stern HQ on mon 18 nov 96

I am interested in combining lustre raku glazes with white crackle glaze
on the same piece. I know this has been successfully done but I keep
being told the maturation temperatures of each are different so one or the
other glaze will be successful and the other won't. Can anyone tell me
how to combine the two glazes successfully? Thanks in advance. Jeni
Stern

Gary Ferguson on mon 16 jun 03


Hilary:

Wallpaper paste is a new one on me. What is it supposed to do? How are you
applying the glaze? If you dip or spray you should get a pretty even coat.
Pouring or brushing you may end up with uneven application, but with Raku,
that may be a good thing (you may get more dynamic colors).

Bubbling and Bloating - What type of clay are you using? What type of glaze
(recipe)? What temperature are you bisquing? How quickly are you firing?
Are you soaking the kiln at the maturity temperature? Are you firing in
extreme reduction? Each of these could affect the bubbling effect of a
glaze.

Sorry, I don't have any UK clay recommendations.

Tarnishing - The more glossy the glaze (hotter you fire) the more resistant
the glaze will be to reoxidization. You can add a clear coat of any number
of sealers, but this usually changes the look of the piece somewhat. I've
heard keeping it out of direct sun will help preserve the copper as well.
Or you can just enjoy the Raku by product of a pot that constantly changes
colors. (I sure this is some kind of Zen attitude)

Hope this helps

Gary Ferguson
Raku Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687
Visit my site at http://www.garyrferguson.com
Subscribe to Just Raku Newsletter at http://www.JustRaku.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Hilary Kemp"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 1:43 PM
Subject: Raku glazing


Hello

I have recently returned to raku after a long absence.I was having trouble
glazing and was recommended wallpaper paste as an additive. I'm still having
trouble! I'm finding it very difficult to get an even thickness and it is
bubbling and bloating whether it's thick or thin. Does anyone have any
ideas?

Also, can anyone in the UK recomend a good smooth raku clay?

Finally, how do people stop the beautiful copper effects from tarnishing
over time?

Thanks,
Hilary in sunny East Anglia

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Hilary Kemp on mon 16 jun 03


Hello

I have recently returned to raku after a long absence.I was having =
trouble glazing and was recommended wallpaper paste as an additive. I'm =
still having trouble! I'm finding it very difficult to get an even =
thickness and it is bubbling and bloating whether it's thick or thin. =
Does anyone have any ideas?

Also, can anyone in the UK recomend a good smooth raku clay?

Finally, how do people stop the beautiful copper effects from tarnishing =
over time?

Thanks,
Hilary in sunny East Anglia

Brian on tue 17 jun 03


On 16/6/03,you wrote about raku glazing...
>. I'm still having trouble! I'm finding it very difficult to get an
>even thickness and it is bubbling and bloating whether it's thick or
>thin. Does anyone have any ideas?
>
Hilary,

When I read your message It was quite a coincidence that I had just
uploaded to my web site an old illustrated article I wrote a long
time ago. Stuff like this does not go out of date so I thought you
might like to peruse a few for a few minutes. It doesn't answer you
question totally but might help.
Boiling bubbling and so on seems to be a process that a lot of glazes
go through at an early stage of their melting before they finally
smooth out.

http://gartside.info/rakupageone.htm
http://www.gartside.info/rakuapplecrackle2.htm

Brian

Jenny Lewis on wed 18 jun 03


Hi Hilary

Why the wallpaper paste?

I've never managed to stop the copper tarnishing, but if it's any use,
sometimes the change is for the better (my opinion). The bright shrieky
colour goes and is replaced with a lovely metallic greeny blue instead.
Not always, but sometimes. At worst it just goes dull yuk brown.

Don't know about a smooth raku clay - whenever I have done it Crank has
tended to be the main choice. But... having said that, I had a go at
raku-ing porcelain a couple of times, which came out ok, and also tried
some terracotta once. The red under a crackle clear was really nice,
and of course the bare clay went strong black, so the combination
worked, I thought.

But, again - I've always gone for lumpy crunchy things when doing raku,
and personally prefer the Crank results.

hmmmm, haven't done Raku for ages, I think I need some of that
pyrotechnic behaviour. Your post has set me thinking.

Where in East Anglia?

Jenny Lewis
in London UK
2 more weeks at evening class
and then summertime withdrawl symptoms
unless.....
(future planning going on)

Leland G. Hall on sun 22 jun 03


Hilary said:
I'm not reaching the right
temperature which is why the glaze is bubbling. Sure enough, it wasn't
reaching the right temperature and the bubbling has gone. I guess I need to
forget everything I was taught about pyrometers and start to use my eyes to
judge temperature instead.

HK


I don't know if that's a good idea. I like to use my eye, a pyrometer, and
sometimes a large self supporting cone or two, all together. I like to
have all the data possible when trying to get glaze to be as good as it can
be.

Just my thoughts.
Leland Hall
"Before The Wheel" Enterprises
Raku Pottery, Sculpture and "Non Tongs" for raku bottles with rims
La Pine, OR

Hilary Kemp on sun 22 jun 03


Hello

Thankyou to every one who replied to my raku glazing query.

Wallpaper paste - Why use it? It does make glazed pots very easy to handle
on the way to the kiln. No chipping off or rubbing and it makes it easy to
apply. Pat Armstrong, Gertrud Bage and Lena Andersson mention using it in
the back of John Mathieson's book 'Raku'.

I've tried refiring some of my raku glazed pots without reduction in my
electric kiln just to check the theory that I'm not reaching the right
temperature which is why the glaze is bubbling. Sure enough, it wasn't
reaching the right temperature and the bubbling has gone. I guess I need to
forget everything I was taught about pyrometers and start to use my eyes to
judge temperature instead.

HK


----- Original Message -----
From: "Hilary Kemp"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 8:43 PM
Subject: Raku glazing


Hello

I have recently returned to raku after a long absence.I was having trouble
glazing and was recommended wallpaper paste as an additive. I'm still having
trouble! I'm finding it very difficult to get an even thickness and it is
bubbling and bloating whether it's thick or thin. Does anyone have any
ideas?

Also, can anyone in the UK recomend a good smooth raku clay?

Finally, how do people stop the beautiful copper effects from tarnishing
over time?

Thanks,
Hilary in sunny East Anglia

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Susan Setley on mon 23 jun 03


In a message dated 6/23/03 7:57:49 AM, b4thewheel@BENDNET.COM writes:

<<

I don't know if that's a good idea. I like to use my eye, a pyrometer, and
sometimes a large self supporting cone or two, all together. I like to
have all the data possible when trying to get glaze to be as good as it can
be.

Just my thoughts.
Leland Hall >>

"

I don't know if that's a good idea. I like to use my eye, a pyrometer, and
sometimes a large self supporting cone or two, all together. I like to
have all the data possible when trying to get glaze to be as good as it can
be.

Just my thoughts.
Leland Hall"

Pyrometers can be inaccurate, but they can also give you an indication before
there's enough color change to tell you if the kiln's temp is rising too fast
or too slow. We also had one remarkable incident -- the first time I was
firing the Raku kiln -- when someone reset the computer the probe was connected to
to give the temperature of a different kiln. By the time we realized it, the
Raku kiln was over 2300. Those glazes bubbled because they got too hot. The
results of that firing could only be described as NASTY!

simon from oz on sun 6 jul 03


hilary, hello. i have just been doing a lot of glazing with copper based
raku glazes. the one and only thing i have found to stop oxidation of my
beautiful colours is a product called bondcrete. i don't know if it is just
in oz or not. it's a water based polymer, a bit like wood glue, but water
based nontheless. i use it 1 part to 4 of water and just paint it on after
the pots or pieces are clean and dry. hope this helps. good luck.