ktighe on tue 29 oct 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have a glazed platter with a small bit of crawling-- just a couple of
bare spots. I would like to re-fire the piece (with glaze, of course, on
the bare spots). I would appreciate any and all assistance in
accomplishing this. Thanks. (the piece is cone 6 Ox.)
Frank A. Pishkur on tue 29 oct 96
On Tue, 29 Oct 1996, ktighe wrote:
> I have a glazed platter with a small bit of crawling-- just a couple of
> bare spots. I would like to re-fire the piece (with glaze, of course, on
> the bare spots). (the piece is cone 6 Ox.)
>
Sometimes I will just fill in the bare spots of a high-fired piece
(depending on where the spots are) with a nice bright commerical low-fire
glaze and then refire the piece at cone 06. The contrast between my
earthy high-fire glazes and the colorful low-fire glaze can be nice.
Frank A. Pishkur knarf@adsnet.com
Michigan City, IN
.....what a beach.
Robert Speirs, M.D. 766 X4450 on tue 29 oct 96
Be really careful when refiring a platter. I have lost all I have tried
to refire in the past. (maybe 2-3) I got very leary of trying to do it.
But I later learned that sprinkling silica sand (also called doll sand)
on the shelf will keep the piece from "catching" on the shelf and
breaking. I also suggest a SUPER SLOW firing.
I hope you are successful.
Laura
Jeremy/Bonnie Hellman on tue 29 oct 96
Hello ktighe--
I fire to cone 6 ox and have several glazes that seem to generate a small
bit of crawling (usually near the rim on the outside) no matter how
carefully I try to avoid handling with bare hands (I've been using gloves)
and no matter how evenly I try to glaze. I love the glazes so I frequently
re-fire. Before I stir the glaze in my bucket, I take some of the glaze
that has dried on the bucket wall, just above the surface of the liquid
glaze. This is considerably thicker than the stuff IN the bucket, and
adheres well to a glazed piece.
I understand that there is a risk of cracking pots by firing more than
once, espcially with large flat bottoms, but I increase the temperature
(hopefully) not too fast and my firing takes 8 hours, and I haven't had the
cracking-on-refiring problem.
Good luck. Bonnie in Pittsburgh
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have a glazed platter with a small bit of crawling-- just a couple of
>bare spots. I would like to re-fire the piece (with glaze, of course, on
>the bare spots). I would appreciate any and all assistance in
>accomplishing this. Thanks. (the piece is cone 6 Ox.)
Karen Gringhuis on thu 31 oct 96
I've done exactly what you describe by mixing a few pinheads of glaze w/ about e
bare spots & let dry. Maybe a couple coats to build up thickness. I even used
C/10 ox. Good luck, Karen Gringhuis
Kerr - M. Christine on fri 1 nov 96
entering this discussion somewhate late....... Ive had ok experience
with refiring on occasion but usually there isnt vast improvement. on
occasion, I have had one of the refiring pieces explode at some point
during the firing - even tho it didnt seem i was heating too quickly or
anything normally suspect. the problem is that the exploding piece would
leave fragments of itself on other pieces nearby (and sometimes not even
near!), thereby ruining several otherwise good pieces. If you do refire,
i would suggest you put all the refire stuff on the bottom shelf of the
kiln to keep it separate from the rest.
Karen Gringhuis on sat 2 nov 96
Second try - Ive reglazed exactly as you describe by mixing a
few pinheads of elmer's glue w/ glaze, put on the crawled spots
& let dry. Maybe a few coats to build up thickness. This mix can
be spread like putty. Even used it to add color to the surface of
an already glazed plate. Good Luck. Karen Gringhuis
Mark Tigges on fri 14 jul 06
One of my pieces from my last firing shows that I had too much glaze
in the bowl. At the bottom of the bowl, there are big bubbles where
the gas didn't have time, or couldn't overcome the surface tension.
Would refiring help? Perhaps remelting would allow it to smooth over?
If so, should I break the bubbles first? Get rid of some of the glaze?
Should I use a different schedule? I was thinking that perhaps I
could go to cone 5, and then hold there (about 1180C until cone 6 is
down) perhaps that would give me a better chance of getting the gass
out?
Just looking for advice since I never tried to fix a problem like
this.
Thanks,
Mark.
--
http://www.m2crafts.ca
m2crafts [at] gmail
| |
|
