Norman Aufrichtig on fri 18 jul 97
Its been years since I did any reglazing but if I remember correctly I
mixed sodium silicate in the glaze and that made the glaze stick to the pot.
Norman Aufrichtig
Taos Clayworks
CDANIELLE on sun 20 jul 97
In a ceramics class I took there were some students reglazing pots by
heating them up first so the water in the glaze would evaporate quickly
and the glaze would stay on the pot. I'm not sure how they were heating
them, ( I never asked ) all I know is they would go back to the kiln
room where there was also stuff set up for the metalurgy/sculpture
classes. The pots would be very hot and one would have to use tongs to
handle them. I'm sure some people will be concerned that heating a pot
like this will crack it, all I can say is it worked with the claybody we
had at school.
good luck,
Gabe Thomas
cdanielle@prodigy.net
Tamsin A. Whitehead on tue 22 jul 97
I do this sometimes too, usually successfully...BUT.... if you get the
pots too hot the glaze will bubble and sizzle and be very uneven. Of
course, it depends what you're looking for.....!
Tamsin,
Nottingham, NH
USA
On Sun, 20 Jul 1997, CDANIELLE wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> In a ceramics class I took there were some students reglazing pots by
> heating them up first so the water in the glaze would evaporate quickly
> and the glaze would stay on the pot. I'm not sure how they were heating
> them, ( I never asked ) all I know is they would go back to the kiln
> room where there was also stuff set up for the metalurgy/sculpture
> classes. The pots would be very hot and one would have to use tongs to
> handle them. I'm sure some people will be concerned that heating a pot
> like this will crack it, all I can say is it worked with the claybody we
> had at school.
>
> good luck,
> Gabe Thomas
> cdanielle@prodigy.net
>
Arturo DeVitalis on wed 23 jul 97
Someone on this list mentioned spraying with liquid starch, letting it
dry, then reapplying the glaze....I've tried it and it has merit!
Leslie Ihde on wed 23 jul 97
I've discovered a nice technique for reglazing- I pot the pots in the
microwave for a few minutes. They heat up and take the glaze easily.
Leslie
Vestal,NY
Robert S. Bruch on wed 23 jul 97
I have found that even with
reheatimng, that it isn't easy
to get the glaze to hold on the
glazed pieces. My best luck came
with shinos which I painted on
the pieces. Any thoughts on the
glaze applications on an already
glazed peice??
--
Bob Bruch rsb8@po.cwru.edu
Molly Gorger on fri 25 jul 97
>
> --------------------------Original message----------------------------
technique for reglazing- I pot the pots in the
> microwave for a few minutes.
I am..... as usual..... confused......Reglazing pots...? So this can be
done? Done at cone 10 reduction? Does it matter how big the pot is?
The reason I ask.......I have a bowl the glaze was not thick
enough....ugly....I wanted to try a different glaze and redo it.....my
instructor said it wouldn't work.......?#%^! Something about it being
to big? Maybe I miss understood him or being who he is....bless his
soul he didn't want me to try......Maybe taking the chance with many
other students work in the kiln....maybe....There could be endless
maybe's...
Hmmmm just wondering?
~~Molly paradise@teleport.com
Marianne Lombardo on tue 5 jun 01
I have many times successfully reglazed pots by heating the pot up a bit
with a hair dryer, and then brushing the glaze on. If another coat is
needed I dry the glaze just brushed on with the hair dryer again, and brush
more glaze on while the pot is still warm. I've had it work for me 100% of
the time.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
> I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
> seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.
Veena Raghavan on tue 5 jun 01
I have found that Elmer glue and heating the pot does the trick. This
information was on Clayart at some point. I thin the glue to a fairly
watery consistency with water, apply it to the pot, then heat the pot in =
a
microwave oven, then dip in the glaze. =
Good luck.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Phyllis Tilton on mon 19 feb 07
Janet: I have used several methods. One, is to have the pot nice and warm. The glaze adheres--I always hope. Another method I have tried, brushing Elmer's Glue and letting it dry. It does form a textured surfacethe glaze will adhere to and burns out in the firing. It is OK, I guess. With this, I found the piece must be dipped or sprayed, not brushed.
The people that should answer this are the ones that do all the multiple layers and firings that come out with such gorgeous finishes.To me, some of the repetitive firings bring other questions. Do they have small kilns that they can fire that often, same deal with all the testing?? I know there are people that produce enough to fire a kiln several times a week.(I am envious).
It will be interesting to read the answers you get.
Phyllis Tilton
daisypet1@yahoo.com
Bobbruch1@AOL.COM on tue 20 feb 07
<<<<<<
I am not striving for the most even (perfect?)
surfaces, and I sometimes apply glazes with
a brush rather than spraying or dipping. If I
want to apply a glaze onto an already glazed
pot, I find it helpful to paint a layer of glaze
and then bisque the piece. It may not appear
to take very well, but often this process will
provide a surface that will accept certain glazes,
just enough to allow you to reglaze for a glaze
firing. I do not do this for layering - for layering
I would prefer to apply one glaze on green ware &
another on the bisqued pot. I only use this method
on pieces where the glaze didn't do what I had
hoped - and these are pieces in which I have
enough time and energy to consider them worth
"saving".
When I make the first firing in my reglazing process,
I just put the piece in with greenware and fire to C06.
Remember that with refirings, you have to go slower
than when bisquing greenware. I think you could fire
to a lower temp to get the surface that will accept
the glaze ... but I have never tried it cause my kiln is
too big to justify firing one pot. Also, glazes that run
may run even more, so take apporpriate cautions in the
glaze firing.
This reglazing process is no sure thing - while you will
get some positive "accidents," the opposite can also
occur and you may not like the results of some of the
refirings - i.e., it may not always be worth doing.
Bob Bruch
Lee Love on tue 20 feb 07
On 2/19/07, Phyllis Tilton wrote:
> Do they have small kilns that they can fire that often, same deal with all the testing??
From a third to a fourth of my glaze firings are re-fires. I just
plan on doing it. I have found some really interesting effects in
re-firing.
Some glazes stick better than others. Shinos work pretty
good for refiring. Also, I sometimes put a pot on the hot
woodstove. The hot pot dries the glaze quickly.
Some folks here use seaweed paste as glue for interesting effects.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
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