Terry Night on thu 30 oct 97
To Clayarters,
I'm comming out of lurking to relate some experiences that might prove
interesting. I was diagnosed with carpal tunnel syndrome about eight years ago.
The habits that are the problems were sleeping on my hands and primarily wedging
I wedge using the ox face method , the basic symetrical pushing down and inward
with both hands ect.. I've tried the spiral method but found it exhausting. My
wedging board is built like a tank, rough cut 2 x 6 and 2 x 8 lumber base with a
removable 34 x 24 x 4 inch plaster filled plywood and 1 inch lumber box. The
surface of the board is 34 inches from the ground, a few inches higher than the
board to help aleviate so much downward pressure and hyperflexing of the wrists.
This contraption was also screwed into the wall so the board was completely
stable. The higher board, home therapy and variation in routine have all helpe
manage the CTS but I have a theory that may be total nonsense but will put it ou
there any way.
About three years ago we turned the studio upside down to create a better
flow. Consequently the wedging board was moved to the opposite side of the stud
where the clay is stored. We didn't bother screwing it back into the wall right
away, just got back to work ASAP. As I would wedge the board would bang aganst
wall. A minor annoyance and reminder to screw that darn thing into the wall. B
for some reason I just kept useing the board as is. I'm great for 20/20 hindsig
but in this case I knew I shouldn't screw the board (table) back into the wall.
slowly began to occur to me that the swing that was developing in my wedging boa
was taking off a lot the resistance that caused pounding in my wrists. I haven'
worn my wrist brace for probably two years (?). Very unscientific but I believe
that a wedging board that is allowed to swing approxamately an inch (half an inc
in each direction from center) can substancially reduce the wear and tear on you
wrists. Keep in mind that the wear and tear that is alleviated from your wrists
going into the wedging table. You will have to repair and or revamp your wedgin
board more often but better that than expensive operations on your wrists that a
questionable in thier effectiveness anyway.
A very quick, easy and effective portable wedging board. Find a scrap pie
of board, plywood, or waferboard that is in the 20" x 12" range. Wrap this with
piece of heavy canvas that is about 35" x 24" or at least wide enough to wrap
around the narrow width of the board. Wrap the board like a gift package but
leave at least 10" inches hanging off one of the twelve inch ends. Staple the
canvas to the back side of the board so that the canvas is streched nice and tig
on the good or wedging side. Leave the 10 inch flap hanging off the end. When
want to wedge kneel on the flap and wedge away. Don't frown until you try it,
kneeling is actually a very natural position to wedge in. I use this portable
wedging board when I do demonstrations at schools. I wouldn't leave home withou
it.
hope this is helpful, Sue Burdick Young
e-mail:
youngs@whiteface.net
http//:
www.theadirondacks.com/youngs
Vince Pitelka wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hi... I got a pre-stretched/attached canvas on a frame (the kind for oil
> >paintings) at the art store, filled it up with plaster, let it set up and it
> >been great. Its portable, plaster on one side, canvas on the other, easy to
> >make and move around. Good luck!
> >Nancy Jewell, Denver,Co SnowSnowSnowSnow......
>
> Wow! Almost thirty years in clay and I still learn something new every day,
> largely due to my students and this list. This one was especially fine.
> Thank you, Nancy. I assume that you used the unprimed stretched canvas.
> One concern that occured to me - there are many different kinds of stretched
> canvases available, and on some the frame is extremely shallow, which would
> give a very weak plaster slab. I would think that the plaster slab should
> be at least two inches thick. But if the frame is too shallow, it would be
> a simple matter to tack on thin boards to increase the depth of the frame.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
> Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
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