Mark Burleson on sat 2 nov 96
I'm interested in finding an old shell of an electric kiln andconverting it to a
firing. Does anyone have any information on this ar any leads on finding the ki
Asheville, NC). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
-Fruzsi Toenniessen
Odyssey@Interpath.com
Mark Issenberg on thu 19 dec 96
Subject: RE: SALT KILN
Happy Holidays to all my Clayart friends wherever you are. I have a
question. Has anybody ever built a salt kiln using soft bricks and spraying
it with ITC coatings? The ITC people told me I could do that but I'd like to
know if anyone else has done it.
Mark
Miami, FL
Dannon Rhudy on fri 20 dec 96
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Subject: RE: SALT KILN
.. Has anybody ever built a salt kiln using soft bricks and spraying
it with ITC coatings?
Yes. There is an article in Ceramics Monthly, sometime within
the last five years I think but don't know the issue. A sizeable
softbrick kiln, I think it was just coated with Alumina Hydrate but
cannot remember for sure. According to the article, no problems.
The pictures of the inside of the kiln showed a pristine surface.
Find it, most interesting.
Dannon Rhudy
"Rafael Molina-Rodriguez (Rafael Molina-Rodriguez)" on wed 8 jan 97
Mark :
In Nils Lou's "Art of Firing" he states Thermal Ceramics' K-26 IFB's
"...showed the least visible effects of salting after six firings."
Rafael
rmr3431@dcccd.edu
>>> Mark Issenberg 12/19/96 08:06am >>>
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Subject: RE: SALT KILN
Happy Holidays to all my Clayart friends wherever you are. I have a
question. Has anybody ever built a salt kiln using soft bricks and
spraying
it with ITC coatings? The ITC people told me I could do that but I'd like to
know if anyone else has done it.
Mark
Miami, FL
Joyce Lee, Jim Lee on sat 2 aug 97
The only piece of equipment that I feel I just HAVE to have is a kiln
for salt firing. I'm thinking of a small one with stacking space of 8
to 12 cubic feet. I have done some research and the only info I find is
a paragraph here and there, or very small segments shown on videos about
firing in general. I have ordered Salt Glazed Ceramics by Mansfield from
The Potters Shop, but it's still in route. (Thanks for telling us about
this great book/video shop.) I love my small Geil fiber-lined down
draft, but, thanks to clayarters, know that I need brick for max
efficacy with salt, as well as a kiln used solely for salt firing since
the fumed bricks would, in turn, glaze reduction work. Anybody have
suggestions for a brand of kiln? I 'm not going to attempt to BUILD a
kiln even though I know it would be much cheaper. I have a strong
(minded) support person who, for health reasons, should not even think
of building a kiln, but who would never, ever remain on the fringes
while ANYTHING is being built on our bit of property (another story).
All suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Joyce
In the Mojave trying to get a Home Page going. Fie!
Craig Martell on sun 3 aug 97
Hey Joyce:
Maybe I just don't get out enough but I've never seen a commercially built
kiln for salt glazing. Maybe you could get some kind of used downdraft and
spray the inside with itc 100. I talked to Alice at ITC yesterday because I
wanted to coat my hardbrick salt kiln with ITC 100 and Alice said that it's
ok to subject that stuff to salt vapor.
A real good book on salt glazing with some good kiln plans and information
is, and correct me you guys if this is wrong, "Salt Glaze" by Peter Starkey.
I think Peter is still working in the UK, at least I hope that he still is,
and is a REAL experienced Salt Glazer. I designed my kiln around his kiln
ideas and advice given in his book. I got the book at the Library.
Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
Barbara Lewis on mon 4 aug 97
About salt kilns, electric kilns. . . and ITC -- Nils Lou gave a powerful
presentation on ITC at this year's NCECA in Las Vegas. From what he said,
if you were to soak new electric kiln elements in ITC (the solution for
metal)before you put the new elements in the kiln, you would probably never
have to replace them. He also showed a slide of a piece of plywood which
was coated with ITC and placed at the mouth of an anagama kiln fired to cone
13 and the plywood did not burn, it buckled a little but was very much
intact. I don't want to speak for Prof. Lou on the chance I might not be
accurate reporting the facts of his presentation. However, in my short time
as a Clayarter (about three weeks) I have seen so many references to salt
kilns, ITC, etc. Maybe Prof. Lou could post a message on Clayart re his
experiences with ITC.
At 10:14 AM 8/3/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey Joyce:
>
>Maybe I just don't get out enough but I've never seen a commercially built
>kiln for salt glazing. Maybe you could get some kind of used downdraft and
>spray the inside with itc 100. I talked to Alice at ITC yesterday because I
>wanted to coat my hardbrick salt kiln with ITC 100 and Alice said that it's
>ok to subject that stuff to salt vapor.
>
>A real good book on salt glazing with some good kiln plans and information
>is, and correct me you guys if this is wrong, "Salt Glaze" by Peter Starkey.
>I think Peter is still working in the UK, at least I hope that he still is,
>and is a REAL experienced Salt Glazer. I designed my kiln around his kiln
>ideas and advice given in his book. I got the book at the Library.
>
>Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
>
Joyce Lee, Jim Lee on mon 4 aug 97
Thanks, as usual, for all the many suggestions for a salt kiln, as well
as to consider soda instead of salt. I am. Question: If a hardbrick
kiln used solely for salt-glazing is coated with ITC 100, will the
bricks still become glazed by salt fumes and operate as a salt kiln that
has NOT been sprayed with ITC? Mel, I will be contacting you. Thank
you for the information.
Joyce
Overwhelmed in the Mojave
Shelley S on mon 4 aug 97
Craig, et al.
On Salt Kilns, in addition (or prior) to coating the inside of a salt kiln
with ITC, do you think it would help insulate the kiln to mud the outside
with a fireclay/straw/dirt mix? We have a downdraft with hardbrick on the
inside and softbrick on the outside. I fired it last night and it was very
leaky.
Also, the kiln is outside without cover (shed is being worked on right now)
and it rained a lot the week prior to firing. How soaked would the bricks
have gotten and would this make a difference in the speed in reaching red
heat?
thanks for any advice,
Shelley
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hey Joyce:
Maybe I just don't get out enough but I've never seen a commercially built
kiln for salt glazing. Maybe you could get some kind of used downdraft and
spray the inside with itc 100. I talked to Alice at ITC yesterday because
I
wanted to coat my hardbrick salt kiln with ITC 100 and Alice said that it's
ok to subject that stuff to salt vapor.
A real good book on salt glazing with some good kiln plans and information
is, and correct me you guys if this is wrong, "Salt Glaze" by Peter
Starkey.
I think Peter is still working in the UK, at least I hope that he still is,
and is a REAL experienced Salt Glazer. I designed my kiln around his kiln
ideas and advice given in his book. I got the book at the Library.
Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
David Woodin Set Clayart Digest on mon 4 aug 97
Itc 100 material can be sprayed on brick or fiber which then makes the kiln
suitable for salt firing. Call Alice at ITC 904-285-0200 for more
information.
Jim Bozeman on fri 27 aug 99
I have finally bought a house and I am going to build a salt kiln with all
of the hard brick that I've been carrying around for years. I also have 300
pounds of a refractory mix that I'm thinking of using. Anyone out there
having experience building a salt kiln I would appreciate your advice and
input. Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________________________
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Ron Philbeck on sun 29 aug 99
Jim,
I have been firing a hard brick salt kiln that is based on Nils MFT design.
Hard brick inside/soft brick outside. I built it 1/3 smaller front to back.
ie three 12x24 shelves deep. I did make it a sprung arch, and I brick up
the door w/ soft brick that I dipped in thinned down Greenpatch. A soft
brick door is so much easier to brick up than a hard one, (you can rub them
and make them fit, chink small gaps w/ fiber.) I didn't have enough money
for a brick stack so I used a steel culvert pipe. 16' tall, 12 inch
diameter. No liners but I think I'd follow Mel's and others advice to use
liners that were sprayed w/ ITC. My stack lasted 20 firings, I just
replaced it.
I use Big Betha burners (weed burners) two coming in the back. Salt ports
above burner ports.
The flue is designed just as Nils says in his book.
This kiln fires GREAT!! The plans don't call for a bag wall but I have one.
Also a couple target brick to deflect the flame. The flame trenches were
cast w/ Paco cast... also a recommendation from Nils. Oh yeah my arch is
soft too. The soft brick are holding up okay. I lightly salt, about 10lbs.
Fires to cone 10 in 24 hrs single fire and I baby it so you may could knock
a couple hours off but this works well for me.
Need more info drop me line.
Ron Philbeck
Shelby, NC
ronpots@shelby.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bozeman
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, August 27, 1999 2:12 PM
Subject: Salt kiln
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have finally bought a house and I am going to build a salt kiln with all
of the hard brick that I've been carrying around for years. I also have 300
pounds of a refractory mix that I'm thinking of using. Anyone out there
having experience building a salt kiln I would appreciate your advice and
input. Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
Hill family on sun 29 aug 99
Hi Jim
I built a hard brick soda kiln last year from reclaimed brick. I love this
kiln even though it goes against all the advice of the master kiln builders
out there. It is about 20 cu. ft. of stacking space, catenary arch,
downdraft with 2 power burners,(used as well), 1 entering the back wall and
the other at the front.
Don,t get me wrong, this kiln is far from efficient and takes about 16 hrs.
to reach ^6 but it fires extremely evenly and the slow heating and cooling
make for some nice surfaces and glazes.
Dan Hill
Eastern Ontario, Canada.
----------
> From: Jim Bozeman
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Salt kiln
> Date: Friday, August 27, 1999 2:12 PM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have finally bought a house and I am going to build a salt kiln with
all
> of the hard brick that I've been carrying around for years. I also have
300
> pounds of a refractory mix that I'm thinking of using. Anyone out there
> having experience building a salt kiln I would appreciate your advice and
> input. Thanks, Jim
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
Mark K Issenberg on mon 30 aug 99
Jim, what are you going to use for fuel? I want to build a wood fire salt
kiln and Vince said i need to look at a Bourry Box kiln. I want flame
flashes and some ash deposits.I think????
I dragged my old Alpine 24 up here so i can at least fire ^10
Mark in Rising Fawn
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Craig Martell on tue 31 aug 99
Hi:
I have a 58 cubic ft hard brick salt kiln so I'll tell you what I did.
If you can get or have high alumina hards use them in the hottest, saltiest
part of the kiln. I used AP Green Kruzite 70s in the fireboxes and
bagwall. They are 70% alumina hards. I cast a 2.5 inch thick trough in
the floor of the firebox to catch the salt and keep molten sodium from
running into the brick joints. I used AP Green Missou Castable, which is
also 70% alumina. The arch is a 9 inch wedge brick job and it weighs about
2800 lbs. I used IFB brick on the outside of the kiln to cut heat loss and
blanketed the outside of the arch with 2300 degree fiber. The stack is
hard brick with a 9 by 9 inch interior opening and this goes up 7 feet to
clear the roof of the shed. From there I have a 10 inch culvert pipe lined
with kaowool sleeves sprayed with ITC 100. I sprayed the interior of the
kiln with ITC and would never do it again. ITC works great with IFBs but
it isn't holding on to the hards very well. I think you'd be better off
with a high alumina wash.
I fire with 4 Big Berthas with a #31 orifice and I max them at 2 psi. That
gives about 225,000 btu's per hour max per burner. That's about all the
Berthas can do as they can't mix enough primary air beyond this point.
good luck with the salt dog, Craig Martell in Oregon
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