VALERIE SANTARELLI on thu 9 may 96
This may be a most ridiculous question but I'll post it anyway. Has
anyone ever fired in a Weber Smoky Joe? Is it at all feasible?
Valerie Santarelli
From Chicago where we have a storm watch--and the sun hasn't shown for
weeks.
Michael Henderson on mon 13 may 96
Re: The Smokey Joe. No, I haven't tried it but my teacher in CA
admitted that she had. She did use a somewhat larger Wbber Ket-
tle. Her results? The kettle did not provide enough room for
enough fuel to get the work hot enough. It looked smoke damaged
rather then fired. The smoke washed off. (She also had a large
number of complaints from here Berkeley neighbors re the smoke)
Emily, in Astoria, where, I know, it's raining... But we did have
3 DAYS of dry weather.... For the Texan who requested the water?
I'm ready to ship.
--
Michael and Emily Henderson (mhenders@orednet.org)
"All that we do is touched with ocean, yet we remain
on the shore of what we know" Richard Wilbur
Joyce Lee, Jim Lee on wed 12 feb 97
Speaking of books, my latest favorite is "The Complete Potter
Sawdust Firing" by Karin Hessenberg. I originally learned about
it from Clayart. There's quite a bit about sawdust and saggars,
fuming and terra sigillata. It's thin (96 pages total) but
concise with many lovely pictures of sawdust-fired pots. (Usual
disclaimer since my favorite potters haven't published
yet. When they do, I will have a heavy personal interest
in promotion.)
Joyce
Desert Rat
Nancy Jervey on thu 10 apr 97
I just attempted my first sawdust firing and I wonder if anyone can
tell be what I did wrong. I built a small kiln, approximately 2 foot
square, out of hard brick left over from an old chimney stack. The
floor was hard brick. I place sawdust on the floor and a pot on top of
that. I filled the pot with sawdust. Then I put some copper carb. and
salt on the sawdust. Added another pot and filled the kiln with
sawdust. At the top I put newspaper and bits of dryed wood. I lit the
wood and newspaper. Left the cover off for a few minutes. I never got
a great big flame, just smoldering sawdust. I left it for an hour
then open the top . The sawdust had all burned but to me the pots did
not get very hot. There was a lot of smoke affect but the pots still
had the pink bisquit look and I certainly did not see any great
affects of the copper!
I read from cover to cover, Karen Hessenberg's book and was hoping to
find more success then this. Very disappointed. Could somebody please
take a minute and tell me what I am doing wrong.
Nancy Jervey
Skowhegan, Maine.
Bruce Lenore on fri 11 apr 97
hi nancy, it sounds like the firing just went too fast. It usually
takes hours and hours for a good primitive(sawdust firing), i find the
longer the burn the better the results. Perhaps there were too many
spaces in the brick .. its hard to tell. Try more pots in the fire,
You can refire the same one again. Vary the fuel with different types
of sawdust and combustables.. pines cones etc for flashing, but the
real black comes from the slow smoldering. God luck , keep trying.
Bruce.Lenore stxnstnz@edgenet.net
Carol Jackaway on fri 11 apr 97
HI,
You need to pack the saw dust down. A sprtz of water helps slow things
down. You need to see flame first, let burn a minute then close, I usaully
get a 8 hours smoke this way in a metal trash can. I also bisque at ^020 in
electirc kiln, it does not take shine away from Burnishing. Hope it helps.
Carol CoilLady
Jennifer Rhinesmith on fri 11 apr 97
Nancy, I am no sawdust firing expert, but when we do ours we put sawdust
on the bottom, place the pots in, use more sawdust, more pots. Then cover
the whole things with more sawdust. Soak with lighter fluid, place small
balls of newspaper on top and light. We leave uncovered for almost 30
min. Then leave it to burn for the night. Next day it should still be
smoldering, we take the lid off and let cool, pots almost always come out
great. Hope this helps, Jennifer in Alpine, Tx we got rain last night.
On Thu, 10 Apr 1997, Nancy Jervey wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I just attempted my first sawdust firing and I wonder if anyone can
> tell be what I did wrong. I built a small kiln, approximately 2 foot
> square, out of hard brick left over from an old chimney stack. The
> floor was hard brick. I place sawdust on the floor and a pot on top of
> that. I filled the pot with sawdust. Then I put some copper carb. and
> salt on the sawdust. Added another pot and filled the kiln with
> sawdust. At the top I put newspaper and bits of dryed wood. I lit the
> wood and newspaper. Left the cover off for a few minutes. I never got
> a great big flame, just smoldering sawdust. I left it for an hour
> then open the top . The sawdust had all burned but to me the pots did
> not get very hot. There was a lot of smoke affect but the pots still
> had the pink bisquit look and I certainly did not see any great
> affects of the copper!
>
> I read from cover to cover, Karen Hessenberg's book and was hoping to
> find more success then this. Very disappointed. Could somebody please
> take a minute and tell me what I am doing wrong.
>
> Nancy Jervey
> Skowhegan, Maine.
>
kurt l. wild on fri 11 apr 97
Nancy Jervey wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I just attempted my first sawdust firing and I wonder if anyone can
> tell be what I did wrong. I built a small kiln, approximately 2 foot
> square, out of hard brick left over from an old chimney stack. The
> floor was hard brick. I place sawdust on the floor and a pot on top of
> that. I filled the pot with sawdust. Then I put some copper carb. and
> salt on the sawdust. Added another pot and filled the kiln with
> sawdust. At the top I put newspaper and bits of dryed wood. I lit the
> wood and newspaper. Left the cover off for a few minutes. I never got
> a great big flame, just smoldering sawdust. I left it for an hour
> then open the top . The sawdust had all burned but to me the pots did
> not get very hot. There was a lot of smoke affect but the pots still
> had the pink bisquit look and I certainly did not see any great
> affects of the copper!
>
> I read from cover to cover, Karen Hessenberg's book and was hoping to
> find more success then this. Very disappointed. Could somebody please
> take a minute and tell me what I am doing wrong.
>
> Nancy Jervey
> Skowhegan, Maine.
In the sawdust method you discribe you would not get anything but black
or grey pots. In a swadust firing with brick you need to leave cracks in
the brickwork so some air gets in. I have done sawdust firings in a five
gallon can but the can was drilled with 1/4" holes every 3" around and
every 3" up and down. For salt to have any effect you would need a
higher temperature (low fire salt firing). I am not familair with the
book you mention.
Try this : Leave a few cracks in you brick work. Use enough saw dust
(not fine dust-like sawdust but rather use shavings) to sourround each
pot with no less than 3" all around. When the "kil" or container is full
squirt charcoal lighter fuel over the top. Ignite and when the flames
die down there should be bits of sawdust glowing red like the end of a
ciggarette. If it looks like too much flame put your cover on and check
in a few minutes . The flame should have been smothered and glowing
sawdust should appear. If not repeat process. A tewo foot square "kiln"
should not burn out in one hour. Too much air? I have fired in a five
gallon can and the firing took at least four hours. It smolders and at
times you will see only the slightest bit of smoke sometimes barely
visible, just like leaving a cigarette burning in an ash tray. Let me
know if this helps.
Carolyn Boeri on fri 11 apr 97
>Nancy Jervey
>Skowhegan, Maine.
>
>Nancy,
You need a double layer of hard or a soft brick floor or a garbage
can lined with fiber. you need a longer fire, hardwood sawdust (6 inch base
of it), make some tunnels to put the copper carb and maybe some soda in, 6+
more inches of hardwood sawdust, lots of bone dry sticks and a fiber and
metal top. It should burn for a good long time, 12 to 18 hours before
opening. as I remember it.
CB
Wendy Hampton on sat 12 apr 97
Nancy,
The only thing I did differently is that I put the pieces in a 30 gal garbage
can and that I let it burn overnight - at least 18-24 hours. Other than that
it sounds the same.
Wendy from Bainbridge Island WA
Jay Landis on sat 12 apr 97
I've been reading the postings about sawdust firings with intrest. I do a lot
of sawdust firings . I'm having a problem with some of my students pots,
they have a thick black ,crusty area that is not very attractive. I have to
refire in the kiln to remove this ugly area. Is it sap from the sawdust?
Could it be removed with a blowtourch? Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks, Jay Landis
kurt l. wild on tue 15 apr 97
Jay Landis wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been reading the postings about sawdust firings with intrest. I do a lot
> of sawdust firings . I'm having a problem with some of my students pots,
> they have a thick black ,crusty area that is not very attractive. I have to
> refire in the kiln to remove this ugly area. Is it sap from the sawdust?
> Could it be removed with a blowtourch? Has anyone else had this problem?
> Thanks, Jay LandisBlack shiny crusty stuff I have note came from rather green
might question what mayterial you are using ? Your guess about sap is
very probably true.
Claudia O Driscoll on tue 15 apr 97
Jay,
This thick black mess has appeared on some of my pots too. I think it is
caused by various things...the type of organic 'stuff' up near the pot. I
got sawdust from a cabinet maker that gave me a lot of trouble, and then
he told me he threw glue stick ends into it. Look out for those!
I have also used fir cones up next to the pots for flashing, but sometimes
they cause the crusting instead.
claudia
Sherry mcDonald Stewart on tue 15 apr 97
Sawdust from a cabinet shop contains all kinds of chemicals and junk
that are not useful in firing of ceramics. You will have to find someone
in your area who does hobby woodworking, the sawdust is uncontaminated,
and you will then only have to concern yourself with the proper mix
(course,fine) and air intake, etc.
stevemills on tue 15 apr 97
In message <334BF081.3F27@somtel.com>, Nancy Jervey
writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I just attempted my first sawdust firing and I wonder if anyone can
>tell be what I did wrong. I built a small kiln, approximately 2 foot
>square, out of hard brick left over from an old chimney stack. The
>floor was hard brick. I place sawdust on the floor and a pot on top of
>that. I filled the pot with sawdust. Then I put some copper carb. and
>salt on the sawdust. Added another pot and filled the kiln with
>sawdust. At the top I put newspaper and bits of dryed wood. I lit the
>wood and newspaper. Left the cover off for a few minutes. I never got
>a great big flame, just smoldering sawdust. I left it for an hour
>then open the top . The sawdust had all burned but to me the pots did
>not get very hot. There was a lot of smoke affect but the pots still
>had the pink bisquit look and I certainly did not see any great
>affects of the copper!
>
>I read from cover to cover, Karen Hessenberg's book and was hoping to
>find more success then this. Very disappointed. Could somebody please
>take a minute and tell me what I am doing wrong.
>
>Nancy Jervey
>Skowhegan, Maine.
Dear Nancy
Your sawdust was much too coarse, very fine dust is what I normally use
and that burns very slowly indeed. Also don't bisc fire any higher than
cone 015/6 or the wares will be "effect proof".
Steve
--
Steve Mills
@Bath Potters Supplies
Dorset Close
Bath
BA2 3RF
UK
Tel:(44) (0)1225 337046
Fax:(44) (0)1225 462712
kurt l. wild on wed 16 apr 97
kurt l. wild wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Jay Landis wrote:
> >
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I've been reading the postings about sawdust firings with intrest. I do a lo
> > of sawdust firings . I'm having a problem with some of my students pots,
> > they have a thick black ,crusty area that is not very attractive. I have to
> > refire in the kiln to remove this ugly area. Is it sap from the sawdust?
> > Could it be removed with a blowtourch? Has anyone else had this problem?
> > Thanks, Jay LandisBlack shiny crusty stuff I have note came from rather gre
> might question what mayterial you are using ? Your guess about sap is
> very probably true.
To those of you reading the foregoing two or three lines - please accept
my apology. I'm new at this and somehow only a portion of my long reply
to request for sawdust firing information did not make it and only that
stupid sounding sentence did. I hope this clears that up.
Sherry mcDonald Stewart on wed 16 apr 97
So, you bisque fired your pots previous to sawdust firing them? To what
temperature? I don't have much experience with bisque firing first, but
i am sure it would have to be a low fire. I burnish, and fire bone dry,
I make the bricks fit loosely together, depending on the amount of air
that is moving where I am firing. I teach kids to build these kilns, and
how to troubleshoot air intake and texture of sawdust. It takes some
fooling around with. It sounds to me that your pots were too hard to
begin with.
Carol Jackaway on thu 17 apr 97
When I bisque for a pit firing, I fire to ^020. Gives them a little more
strenght but allows for smoked surfaces...I have even gone as high as ^010.
Carol Sunny Spring mornings!
WHampton@aol.com on thu 17 apr 97
I was told never to bisque higher that cone 010. That leaves the clay porous
enough to absorb carbon and other materials in the firing.
Wendy from Bainbridge island WA
stevemills on thu 17 apr 97
In message <335273F3.78C0@uwrf.edu>, "kurt l. wild"
writes
>----------------------------Original message---------------------------
-
>Jay Landis wrote:
>>
>> ----------------------------Original message-------------------------
---
>> I've been reading the postings about sawdust firings with intrest. I
do a lot
>> of sawdust firings . I'm having a problem with some of my students
pots,
>> they have a thick black ,crusty area that is not very attractive. I
have to
>> refire in the kiln to remove this ugly area. Is it sap from the
sawdust?
yes
>> Could it be removed with a blowtourch?
that did'nt work for me, I wound up grinding it off!
I now use hardwood sawdust, much less resin.
steve
--
Steve Mills
@Bath Potters Supplies
Dorset Close
Bath
BA2 3RF
UK
Tel:(44) (0)1225 337046
Fax:(44) (0)1225 462712
Tony Hansen on fri 18 apr 97
> I was told never to bisque higher that cone 010. That leaves the clay porous
> enough to absorb carbon and other materials in the firing.
I bisque as high as possible or else soak the bisque and take it up real
slow. Burns out the volatiles so they don't have
to bubble up through the glaze.
--
Tony Hansen, thansen@mlc.awinc.com
Sherry mcDonald Stewart on thu 24 apr 97
how strong is the bisque at that temperature? And how porous? I burnish
the tiles I make, and get grays, ivories, browns, and blacks....very
lovely effect, but they dissolve in water. Doen't concern me, but I know
it would concern some buyers. I am gathering info for when I can get
back into clay. This is a good time to solve some of those things.
Sherry
Joyce Lee, Jim Lee on fri 17 oct 97
I apologize to those who e-mailed and said that their sources couldn't
find Karin Hessenberg's book on sawdust firing. I submitted an
incomplete title. It is "The Complete Potter, Sawdust Firing." The
ISBN number is: 0-8122-3301-8. Estupida!
Joyce
Chagrined in the Mojave
john on thu 14 may 98
Can anyone give info on sawdust firing as I want to experiment.
Best clays, plans that sort of thing would be greatly appericated.
thank you
Scott North on thu 21 oct 99
Hello Lynn,
This is my first time posting anything on clayart, but your problem
is right up my alley. I have been doing pit firings and raku for about 25
years, and have learned a few things. I haven't read Martha Puckett's
technique, so can't comment on that, but will relate what I have found to
work successfully for me. Dig a pit in the ground about 2 feet deep. The
area will depend on how many pots you wish to place in it. Mine is about 4
by 6 feet. First a layer of wood shavings (I get mine from furniture and
musical instrument makers, clean out their dustbins) about 6 to 8 inches
deep is placed in the bottom of the pit. The pots are then placed in the
pit one layer deep and not crammed up to the outer edges of the pit. They
can be touching each other or not. Next I go into the forest (my pit is in
a small meadow in the middle of the redwood forest) and haul out a bunch
of leaves, sticks, chunks of wood, etc.These items are carefully and
loosely placed around the pots. In amongst these organic combustibles I
will strategically place small packets of rock salt, copper carbonate or
copper sulfate, and iron sulfate. These packets consist of a paper towel
with about a tablespoon of the chemical, rolled up and tied with string.
Sometimes i will tie the packets to the pot with copper and salt soaked
string or copper wire (very thin). Or you can just carefully sprinkle the
chemicals around the pots. Anyway, it is very important to pack this part
very loose so oxygen can circulate (you can wad up newspaper and place it
here and there to help keep things loose).This material is used until the
pots are completely covered. Then I put another thin(couple inches) of
wood shavings over this to act as insulation from the initial heat blast of
the fire. On top of the shavings i build a pile of dry branches from the
forest (any dry wood will do). Then comes the real fun. You light the
fire. I keep feeding the fire (keeping the burning wood stack about 2 to 3
feet high) for about 2 hours. Then it just burns down to a pit full of
glowing embers until it cools about 24 hours later. We can never wait
until things are totally cool to unload though. The side of the pot that
is down in the original shaving layer should be black and the rest should
be a combination of red, orange,black, bare clay color, maybe green,
gray-blue, lots of surprises. Take notes about what you do so you can try
to come close to repeating your successes. Also, a little dancing and
singing around the fire doesn't hurt. Hope this helps some. Best of luck.
Scott
Scott C. North
Geology Department
Humboldt State University
Arcata, CA 95521
phone: (707) 826-3210
FAX: (707) 826-5241
isnorchd on wed 12 apr 00
------------------
4/12/00
I am very interested in sawdust firing small pinched pots. Have been reading=
as
much as I can find, which comes to three magazines and as many books. I am =
in
Thailand, as you might know, so my resources are very limited. I see where
people use all kinds of organics to affect the colors of the final results,
although it appears that most pots turn out shades of black. What I can't =
seem
to find though, is whether or not one should bisque first or start with
greenware. I would like some opinions about this from some of you with
experience. I also come across references often about burnishing pots with a
stone. I have tried this but obviously don't know how to do it. Is a great =
deal
of tedium involved? It seems that one needs to sit and rub and rub and rub =
until
one's fingers ache. Is that the requirement? If anyone has some suggestions =
of
how to do this, I would appreciate hearing from you? I have just bought some
fire brick so I am going to build a kiln with open spaces and use rice husks=
and
dried cow manure as well as sawdust. Oh yes, one last thing- I saw in a =
recent
magazine that one could use hot glue to attach copper strands and or steel =
wool
to create provocative effects. Is there any other way to attach the stuff as=
I
don't have a hot glue machine. I would appreciate any other suggestions as =
well.
Thanks very much.
Sincerely,
Don Beckerman
Isan Orchid Guest Lodge
Thabo, Nongkhai, Thailand
isnorchd=40nk.ksc.co.th
WHew536674@cs.com on thu 13 apr 00
Don,
About burnishing: I read somewhere (think it was clayart) that the best way
to burnish was when the piece was dry. Having always burnished a couple
times when the piece was leather hard, and then again with oil when it was
dry, I was suspect. So, I tried it the dry way, and to my amazement, it cut
my burnishing time in one-third, and eliminated those burnishing marks one
gets when burnishing on leather hard clay. Try this: after the pinch pot is
dry, take some oil, baby oil, olive oil, vegetable oil, what you have on
hand, and put a coat over the piece. Once it soaks in, dampen with water,
lightly, the area that you are going to burnish. Use a spoon, smooth stone,
my favorite is a burnishing tool that print makers use. It burnishes very
nicely and you won't ware down your fingers.
About firing: I do a regular cone 5 bisque because I like the gradation of
tone one gets on the piece. If you prefer it to be pretty black bisque at
cone 010.
About the wire: Don't know, someone else is going to have to answer that
question, and I look forward to the answer.
Happy burnishing
Joyce A.
Mission, TX
Jean Todd on fri 14 apr 00
If you are firing with rice husks and dried cow manure then that is a
primitive firing, and primitives did not bisque first. I think you get
better colours not bisquing. And I burnish on the wheel with a piece of
plastic over something soft, foam plastic etc. Should take less than a
minute.
Jean
"Lang may your lum reek"
E-mail mallyree@ix.net.au
----- Original Message -----
From: "isnorchd"
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 7:09 AM
Subject: sawdust firing
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
4/12/00
I am very interested in sawdust firing small pinched pots. Have been reading
as
much as I can find, which comes to three magazines and as many books. I am
in
Thailand, as you might know, so my resources are very limited. I see where
people use all kinds of organics to affect the colors of the final results,
although it appears that most pots turn out shades of black. What I can't
seem
to find though, is whether or not one should bisque first or start with
greenware. I would like some opinions about this from some of you with
experience. I also come across references often about burnishing pots with a
stone. I have tried this but obviously don't know how to do it. Is a great
deal
of tedium involved? It seems that one needs to sit and rub and rub and rub
until
one's fingers ache. Is that the requirement? If anyone has some suggestions
of
how to do this, I would appreciate hearing from you? I have just bought some
fire brick so I am going to build a kiln with open spaces and use rice husks
and
dried cow manure as well as sawdust. Oh yes, one last thing- I saw in a
recent
magazine that one could use hot glue to attach copper strands and or steel
wool
to create provocative effects. Is there any other way to attach the stuff as
I
don't have a hot glue machine. I would appreciate any other suggestions as
well.
Thanks very much.
Sincerely,
Don Beckerman
Isan Orchid Guest Lodge
Thabo, Nongkhai, Thailand
isnorchd@nk.ksc.co.th
Teresa Speakman on fri 14 apr 00
Don,
You don't have to bisque first, although most people do believing there
will be less breakage. Traditionally bisqueing was not done because the dung
or pitfiring WAS the firing. I think the only way to get colors is to use
copper or other metals. With wood you can expect variations of black/grey.
I would expect a lot of black using dung ( which may obscure colors) as dung
is traditionally used in Southwest Indian blackware. I have used copper wire
and wrapped pots, you could slop a piece of copper or steel wool under the
wire or strapping. Twisting the ends together tightens the wire eliminating
the need of glue.
I have only done pitfiring: I dug a 4'x3' pit about 2-3' deep; burned
a quick brush fire to create a warm bed; placed sticks, split wood, and
dried pampas type grasses intermixed with the bisqued pots, to fill the pit;
I threw in a mix of kosher salt and copper carbonate; on top of the pile I
heaped more wood; lit the pile in several places and continued adding wood,
after about 1 1/2 hours I covered the whole pit with moldy staw which
immediately caused a thick yellow smoke; covered the top with sheets of
metal and sealed the edges and cracks with dirt; left it for 24 hours.
See some of the results on my website:
www.home.earthlink.net/~zumaoriginals/
I have not found burnishing to be tedious or painful. You don't need to
press really hard. You must do it at the right time though. I prefer to
burnish leather hard ware, and I use the back of a silver spoon. The clay
should be dry enough to create a polish and not stick to the spoon. If you
high fire your piece the polished look will disappear. Some people prefer to
apply slip to dry ware and burnish 2 or 3 coats. Good luck experimenting!
- Teresa in Ohio
peace
> From: isnorchd
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 17:09:55 EDT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: sawdust firing
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ------------------(I shortened Don's original post -Teresa)
> 4/12/00
>
> I am very interested in sawdust firing small pinched pots...
> What I can't seem
> to find though, is whether or not one should bisque first or start with
> greenware. I would like some opinions about this from some of you with
> experience.... I also come across references often about burnishing pots with
a
> stone. I have tried this but obviously don't know how to do it. Oh yes, one
last thing- I saw in a recent
> magazine that one could use hot glue to attach copper strands and or steel
> wool
> to create provocative effects. Is there any other way to attach the stuff as I
> don't have a hot glue machine. I would appreciate any other suggestions as
> well.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Don Beckerman
> Isan Orchid Guest Lodge
> Thabo, Nongkhai, Thailand
> isnorchd@nk.ksc.co.th
>
Joyce Lee on fri 14 apr 00
Hey Don,
No expert here for sure...... have only completed maybe three sawdust
firings ever....... but I had great fortune applying slip to bisque
thinly, several layers of colored slip.... not many...maybe three....
then burnishing with an old tee-shirt. My burnishing was not lengthy,
... one pot was quite tall.... and I rubbed lightly. Whatever caused it,
I wound up with nice gray and black smoky marks designed by the fire
gods on light blue and white and green pots ...... fired in an old oil
can with a few holes punched around the bottom quarter, a couple of
holes a few inches below the rim, and the lid for the oil can with a
handle attached... handle was rescued from an old barbecue. Simple and
effective...... don't know why I haven't tried that since.....but
probably will now. Thanks for the reminder.
Joyce
In the Mojave very pleased with my last reduction ^10 firing unloaded
this morning..... no shinos in this one for I find that they need a
whole kiln to themselves. My only objectives, no matter what the pots
looked like, were to keep the glazes off the shelves and to have ^10
half down with ^11 tipped, only TIPPED, not flat as has been its
custom... and to reduce appropriately. All objectives again were
achieved and THIS TIME I could SEE the color of the heat when ^10
tipped...hooray. Thanks to Mel for his help and encouragement!
Beth Christensen on sat 6 may 00
I recently tried sawdust firing and got only mediocre results. I'd
appreciate any answers to these questions:
1. I used hamster bedding as I understood that the sawdust should be a mix of
coarse, fine and some shavings. Could this have been too coarse?
2. I used two experimental pieces, a bisqued raku-ware and a bisqued red
stoneware. I put them in upside down. The insides came out beautifully
black..the raku even had a touch of a deep velvety blue...but nothing on the
outside at all! Why?
3. Can I do it again to the same pots? What if I glaze and fire them (eg.
raku the raku piece, and glaze fire the stoneware to cone 6)?
4. Any other good advice?
centa on mon 8 may 00
Hi,
I'm wanting to do my first sawdust firing in my yard which is somewhat
urban. The effect I'm after is total uniform black and only black with
crackle similar to raku. Any tips?
thanks,
centa
Jo Gilder on wed 27 sep 00
Hi Everyone,
I've bisqued a few pots up to ^04. I then put them in a trash can with
lots of sawdust and some wood scraps. I got the fire going but when I
tried to smolder the pots the fire went out. So I had to keep the lid
off. The pots came out the same color they went in. I finally put them
in the flames and was able to blacken them that way but I feel I've
missed something. Any ideas? BTW I did not slip, or terra sig the
outsides. I just put them in as is.
TIA.
Jo
--
Jo Gilder
Waterville, VT
Greg Cochenet on fri 29 sep 00
For some possible ideas, go to my site at the address below to see how I do
it.
Greg Cochenet
www.trainweb.org/wirr/ceramics/pitfire.html
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Bill and Sylvia Shirley on fri 29 sep 00
Greg,
You have a very nice web site. Thanks for sharing your
knowledge with us. Do you mind posting a recipe for that
"wood firing slip" you mentioned? It sounds great!
Thanks,
Sylvia Shirley
Pittsburg, Kansas
Judith Sara on tue 3 oct 00
Hello Jo,
In my experience with sawdust smoke firings, sometimes it just takes a while
for the sawdust in a metal trash can to stay lit. I've spent over an hour on
occasions lighting and re-lighting it. I start the firing by lighting
crumpled up newspapers which I put on top of the sawdust. I let them flame
maybe one minute, then put the lid on loosely. Very dry sawdust helps, with
coarse wood shavings (which light more easily), as well as finer powdery
sawdust mixed in. I don't use any wood scraps, which may produce flames
rather than smoldering. Also I punched air holes in the trash can with a
hammer and nail, about 8 inches apart. Hope this is helpful.
By the way, in response to the burnishing tool discussion, I think that the
most important thing is that it fits comfortably in your hand, and is the
right size to reach into any curves in the pot. I use the back of a silver
teaspoon.
Judith
Norman van der Sluys on wed 4 oct 00
I use charcoal briquettes to start my sawdust going. I use one of those "chimneys"
that holds the briquettes on a grate. You put one sheet of crumpled newspaper
under the grate and place the chimney on a fireproof surface. Light the newspaper,
and in 10 minutes ou have glowing charcoal. Spread this on top of your sawdust and
the briquettes give the sawdust a good start. Works every time for me.
Judith Sara wrote:
> Hello Jo,
>
> In my experience with sawdust smoke firings, sometimes it just takes a while
> for the sawdust in a metal trash can to stay lit.
--
Norman van der Sluys
by the shore of Lake Michigan
Anji Henderson on wed 4 oct 00
I wasn't going to say anything for fear of seeming
like an insane hap hazard pyro-maniac.. But I have
used charcoal lighter fluid and if it doesn't catch
add more.. BUT BE CAREFUL!! That baby can flair up
like I don't know what ...... But it surrrrreeee is
perety'..... ; 0
Anji
--- Norman van der Sluys wrote:
> I use charcoal briquettes to start my sawdust going.
> I use one of those "chimneys"
> that holds the briquettes on a grate.
=====
Good art does not have to match your sofa!!
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Jo Gilder on sat 7 oct 00
Hi Everyone,
Thanks for all the help on the sawdust firing. I did have holes in the
can but I misinterpreted the smoke the first time because it was
different from the way I had been taught. Yes, I did have holes in the
trash can but I had filled it incorrectly with lots of air space amongst
other things. I finally did get it work smolder (took over 12 hours to
go out so I must have done something right this time on account of
everyone's help) however the pots didn't change much.
I bisqued a second batch to only ^06 and that helped some (thanks for
noting the bisque temp was wrong) but the pots on the bottom still
didn't get a lot of color. Am I using too much sawdust on the bottom so
there isn't enough exposure or is this par for the course?
BTW, the reason I took so long to answer was that I was trying to get
ready for the show today. I came up with a great finish (at least I
think so anyway) and I got lots of interest and comments but I didn't
sell one piece! :-(((
Jo
--
Jo Gilder
Waterville, VT
mel jacobson on sat 1 sep 01
not to put down those friends that say phhllllllllllllat.
but, lowell has done great work with sawdust and alternative
firing techniques with throw away fuel.
all the chatter about forests, gas, oil, and here is a guy
that is using a throw away material. with great results.
i would build his system in a heart beat.
don't ignore or make smarty of mr. baker.
he is a true wood fire guy, and knows what he is doing.
sawdust is becoming a great fuel, and industry is finally
making use of it. the same system that lowell has in rube goldberg
style is being used to fire power plants, city heating systems
and the like.
our guy at the farm with the sawmill is selling his sawdust now
for a good price. this is a great fuel.
corn cobs are making a big come back for fuel.
gotta keep thinking.
old guys like us with bourries are happy, but, sawdust
is a great fuel.
don't ignore it.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
vince pitelka on sat 1 sep 01
> not to put down those friends that say phhllllllllllllat.
> but, lowell has done great work with sawdust and alternative
> firing techniques with throw away fuel.
I'd have to agree with Mel, and I'd have to agree with Tony. I love those
early morning hours, firing a wood kiln, when you can hear the kiln draw,
and you can also hear the birds and other sounds of nature. But Lowell did
his "High Temperature Sawdust Injection Firing" workshop at the Craft Center
this summer the same week I was doing my Ancient Clay workshop, and it was
impressive to see. His sawdust burner is like a rocket motor. Hey, maybe
NASA should consider it?? It is a completely different from traditional
wood firing, and cannot really be compared. I do question the outcome as
compared to traditional wood firing, in terms of the amount of ash blasted
through the kiln, but much of the results I saw in Lowell's sawdust firing
in his own kiln down in Alabama were very impressive. The temptation with
the sawdust burner is to fire way too fast, since it is capable of gigaBTUs.
There is lots to sort out there, and Lowell is doing it for us, which is a
fine thing.
So yes, Lowell's sawdust burner is noisy and a bit cantankerous (gee,
sometimes Lowell is like that too), but it sure gets the job done. If one
has a ready supply of clean, uniform sawdust available, if one is not
bothered by the noise, and if one is not attached to the purity of
traditional natural-draft wood firing, it does makes good sense to use a
sawdust burner during at least part of the firing.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Kurt Wild on sat 1 sep 01
Mel:
Mel knows about what he speaks in reference to a sawdust injection
burner. We tried it some years ago at the farm just for fun. It really
roared and worked well. Our problem then was that we did not have a good
idea for a proper feed for the sawdust. Lowell's auger system is just the
ticket for anyone wishing to try it.
I definitely agree with the following things Mel psoted:
.... lowell has done great work with sawdust and alternative
>firing techniques with throw away fuel.....
>....mr. baker.
>he is a true wood fire guy, and knows what he is doing....
>.....for a good price. this is a great fuel....
>old guys like us with bourries are happy, ....
Kurt
Steve Mills on sun 2 sep 01
From another perspective. For people like me who are a bit buggered by
arthritis who want to keep wood firing, but can't haul the lumber like
we used to; sawdust firing opens a window we thought was stuck shut!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , mel jacobson writes
>not to put down those friends that say phhllllllllllllat.
>but, lowell has done great work with sawdust and alternative
>firing techniques with throw away fuel.
>
>all the chatter about forests, gas, oil, and here is a guy
>that is using a throw away material. with great results.
>i would build his system in a heart beat.
>don't ignore or make smarty of mr. baker.
>he is a true wood fire guy, and knows what he is doing.
>
>sawdust is becoming a great fuel, and industry is finally
>making use of it. the same system that lowell has in rube goldberg
>style is being used to fire power plants, city heating systems
>and the like.
>
>our guy at the farm with the sawmill is selling his sawdust now
>for a good price. this is a great fuel.
>corn cobs are making a big come back for fuel.
>gotta keep thinking.
>
>old guys like us with bourries are happy, but, sawdust
>is a great fuel.
>don't ignore it.
>mel
>From:
>Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
>web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
John Jensen on wed 12 dec 01
I'm curious about sawdust firing...How much sawdust would it take to fire a
15 to twenty cubic foot kiln?
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
mudbug@toad.net www.Toadhouse.com
Elizabeth Herod on sat 16 nov 02
Hi all--
We=B9re doing a sawdust firing on Tuesday. All pieces have been terra sig-ed
and bisqued at below ^06.
I have soaked banana peels, mango peels, used coffee filters, coconut
fibers, etc. in peters plant food and then sun dried them.
Does anyone else have any suggestions of things to add? I=B9ve heard of usin=
g
galvanized nails as well with copper carb.
I=B9ve also heard of mixing either copper sulphate and borax with water, or
iron sulphate and borax with water, brush on, and you=B9ll get lustres. Hard
to imagine that, but that is what I=B9ve read. Has anyone actually used thes=
e
combinations.
And yes, I realize that these are highly toxic, and require using gloves an=
d
masks when mixing and applying to the pots.
I=B9d love to hear your suggestions. I have had good results with seaweed an=
d
banana peels with copper, but I=B9d like to try some other things.
Beth
Dana Henson on sat 16 nov 02
Try red copper oxide...sprinkled over the pieces...beautiful maroons and
pinks !
On Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:00:50 -0500 Elizabeth Herod
writes:
> Hi all--
>
> We=B9re doing a sawdust firing on Tuesday. All pieces have been
> terra sig-ed
> and bisqued at below ^06.
>
> I have soaked banana peels, mango peels, used coffee filters,
> coconut
> fibers, etc. in peters plant food and then sun dried them.
>
> Does anyone else have any suggestions of things to add? I=B9ve
> heard of usin=
> g
> galvanized nails as well with copper carb.
>
> I=B9ve also heard of mixing either copper sulphate and borax with
> water, or
> iron sulphate and borax with water, brush on, and you=B9ll get
> lustres. Hard
> to imagine that, but that is what I=B9ve read. Has anyone actually
> used thes=
> e
> combinations.
>
> And yes, I realize that these are highly toxic, and require using
> gloves an=
> d
> masks when mixing and applying to the pots.
>
> I=B9d love to hear your suggestions. I have had good results with
> seaweed an=
> d
> banana peels with copper, but I=B9d like to try some other things.
>
> Beth
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
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> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
DANA HENSON-FLEMMING --- Master of Fine Arts
ARTFUL - Sculptural and Functional Clay Works
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Drufke, Barbara on tue 12 apr 05
I am doing a sawdust firing soon for the first time with my ceramics =
class in a 55 gallon drum. I was hoping that the whole smoldering =
process would not take any longer than 7 hours b/c I can't leave the =
pots smoldering over night sitting in the parking lot. About how long =
does the whole process usually take?
Barb Drufke
Vicki Hardin on tue 12 apr 05
Kathy, you might be able to do it in 7 hours, but that would be pushing it and my guess is that you will most likely need to take the work out while still somewhat hot almost as if rakuing. The smaller the can you are using the faster it will expend it's fuel and cool. If it were me, I would do two smaller firings in two vented trash cans. I would probably 50 percent sawdust and 50 percent wood. If you predominantly use sawdust alone with just a few coals, it takes a while. Adding more wood will speed up the process. I have seen pits with sawdust alone burn 24 hours.
Good Luck
Vicki Hardin
http://VickiHardin.com
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
>
> From: "Drufke, Barbara"
> Date: 2005/04/12 Tue PM 05:31:42 EDT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: sawdust firing
>
> I am doing a sawdust firing soon for the first time with my ceramics class in a 55 gallon drum. I was hoping that the whole smoldering process would not take any longer than 7 hours b/c I can't leave the pots smoldering over night sitting in the parking lot. About how long does the whole process usually take?
> Barb Drufke
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Warren Heintz on tue 12 apr 05
I have to agree. Sawdust alone does take the 24 hours. I use an aluminum garbage can w/ lid. The addition of the wood hadn't crossed my mind,being too much the purist,I guess. But I get antsy and the 24 hours of smoldering drives me batty. I will try the wood next time,thanks.
Vicki Hardin wrote:Kathy, you might be able to do it in 7 hours, but that would be pushing it and my guess is that you will most likely need to take the work out while still somewhat hot almost as if rakuing. The smaller the can you are using the faster it will expend it's fuel and cool. If it were me, I would do two smaller firings in two vented trash cans. I would probably 50 percent sawdust and 50 percent wood. If you predominantly use sawdust alone with just a few coals, it takes a while. Adding more wood will speed up the process. I have seen pits with sawdust alone burn 24 hours.
Good Luck
Vicki Hardin
http://VickiHardin.com
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
>
> From: "Drufke, Barbara"
> Date: 2005/04/12 Tue PM 05:31:42 EDT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: sawdust firing
>
> I am doing a sawdust firing soon for the first time with my ceramics class in a 55 gallon drum. I was hoping that the whole smoldering process would not take any longer than 7 hours b/c I can't leave the pots smoldering over night sitting in the parking lot. About how long does the whole process usually take?
> Barb Drufke
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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lela martens on wed 13 apr 05
>I am doing a sawdust firing soon for the first time with my ceramics class
>in a 55 gallon drum. I was hoping that the whole smoldering process would
>not take any longer than 7 hours b/c I can't leave the pots smoldering over
>night sitting in the parking lot. About how long does the whole process
>usually take?
>Barb Drufke
The drum I use is that size, cut in half, a few holes punched in the side,
not tight lid. It`s still smouldering 12 hours later when I remove the pots,
with thick leather gloves.
Lela
Carol Casey on mon 22 mar 10
Hi all,
I am coil building large outdoor garden pots using soldate 60. Because
they're big, bringing them on the train with me in the morning to the studi=
o
at my work probably isn't the best idea. Besides, I want to try sawdust
firing, which is a good way for me to fire in my backyard I think. In the
past the piece I fired in sawdust came out more like just beyond bisque.
Maybe that would be OK for this . . . but I'd rather try for a little dense=
r
(if that's the right word) and am looking for a good reference guide to
sawdust firing in a metal trash can. Any ideas out there?
Thanks,
Carol
Canary Court
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