Sharon Miranda on mon 23 sep 96
I've been thinkg of buying a large piece of sheetrock to extend my work
table which is on the small side (4' x 2 1/2'). I understand that it's a
great way to work with slabs, soaks up the water nicely. What I wonder is
how do you keep the paper coating on the sheetrock intact? doesn't it get
easily pulled off and wrecked?
thanks for any info
Sharon - my new (and first!) kiln arrives tomorrow!
Paula Coleman on mon 23 sep 96
>I've been thinkg of buying a large piece of sheetrock to extend my work
>table
>how do you keep the paper coating on the sheetrock intact?
Sheet rock is great used as a drying surface, but not as a work surface.
The paper is torn easily by a fettling knife, and then chunks of plaster
from beneath the paper can lift up and stick to your piece.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Paula L. Coleman Email: potter@comcat.com
Ceramic Artist Web: http://www.comcat.com/~potter/
Bucks County, PA, USA
chull@startext.net on mon 23 sep 96
Sharon,
You could cover your table with the sheet rock then stretch and staple
canvas over that. The canvas will protect the paper covering on the
sheet rock and clay won't stick. It leaves a woven imprint on really
wet clay (which can be nice) but that can be smoothed off at a dryer
stage. Congrats on your new kiln!
Cynthia
TX
Sharon Miranda wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been thinkg of buying a large piece of sheetrock to extend my work
> table which is on the small side (4' x 2 1/2'). I understand that it's a
> great way to work with slabs, soaks up the water nicely. What I wonder is
> how do you keep the paper coating on the sheetrock intact? doesn't it get
> easily pulled off and wrecked?
> thanks for any info
> Sharon - my new (and first!) kiln arrives tomorrow!
Mary Hays on mon 23 sep 96
Sharon,
Sheetrock works great. I use it all the time. I run duct tape around all
the edges, folding it over to cover both sides. Congratulations on getting
your kiln. That's really exciting! (Mary
Hays)
gail@matra.com.au on mon 23 sep 96
As an alternative to sheetrock (which I think is the same as what we call
'gyprock' here in Australia), I'd recommend sheets of compressed fibre
cement....the stuff that was once made with asbestos but not any more. It's
referred to as 'fibro' downunder, but maybe you use a different term. It's
absorbant, dries quickly, doesn't disintegrate in the process of absorbing
water and drying out, and has no paper coating to peel off. Makes a great
surface for wedging soft clay; also dries pot bases evenly prior to turning.
..............................................................
Gail Nichols gail@matra.com.au
SODA GLAZE CERAMICS http://www.matra.com.au/~gail/
Sydney, Australia
..............................................................
Don Sanami on mon 23 sep 96
Dear Sharon, I would make very certain that what you call "Sheetrock" is
completly lacking in Asbestos...the dangers far outweigh the value.. I
would also beware of any material which would soak-up water too quickly
since it could also remove mopre water from one surface than the other.
Heavy canvas works well.If furthur absorbency is required try using
nesprint or old blotters beneath the canvas. Good luck. don morrill/Isao
Sanami-MorrillOn Mon, 23 Sep 1996, Sharon Miranda wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been thinkg of buying a large piece of sheetrock to extend my work
> table which is on the small side (4' x 2 1/2'). I understand that it's a
> great way to work with slabs, soaks up the water nicely. What I wonder is
> how do you keep the paper coating on the sheetrock intact? doesn't it get
> easily pulled off and wrecked?
> thanks for any info
> Sharon - my new (and first!) kiln arrives tomorrow!
>
chull@startext.net on tue 24 sep 96
gail@matra.com.au wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> As an alternative to sheetrock (which I think is the same as what we call
> 'gyprock' here in Australia), I'd recommend sheets of compressed fibre
> cement....the stuff that was once made with asbestos but not any more. It's
> referred to as 'fibro' downunder, but maybe you use a different term. It's
> absorbant, dries quickly, doesn't disintegrate in the process of absorbing
> water and drying out, and has no paper coating to peel off. Makes a great
> surface for wedging soft clay; also dries pot bases evenly prior to turning.
>
> .............................................................
> Gail Nichols gail@matra.com.au
> SODA GLAZE CERAMICS http://www.matra.com.au/~gail/
> Sydney, Australia
> .............................................................
Sounds like what you are referring to is called cellatex here. It fits
that description. I've used it as a bulletin board but it might work as
a work surface.
Cynthia
TX
JP on tue 24 sep 96
I use sheetrock when I create tile work and slab pieces. I cut the
sheet rock into 18" x 18" squares and then lay one of the squares on
top of a slab that is rolled out on canvas using a rolling pin. I
hold the edges of the canvas to the sheetrock and flip it over. Then
I lay the other sheetrock square on top. The clay slab ends up
sandwiched between the the two pieces of sheetrock. I leave the clay
sandwiched between the boards overnight and the next day it is
leatherhard and ready to use. (If I want to work with the slab
later, I take it off the sheetrock and place it in some plastic.)
This method also works great for drying tiles since moisture is drawn away
from the top and the bottom of the tile at the same rate. It results
in nice flat tiles with no warping. The only problem I have run into
is that occasionally the sheetrock gets moldy from the moisture in the
clay. This is when I throw them out. I'm not sure if you want to
build a table out of this material. Maybe you could just use this
material over the top of a table you already have. Then when it gets
moldy or worn you could replace it. I got my ideas about using
sheetrock from Frank Giorgini's book Handmade Tiles. I hope this info
helps.
John Post jp6mchp@moa.net
John Post JP6mchp@moa.net Sterling Heights, MI
Lisa on tue 24 sep 96
Sharon:
Don't use sheetrock for really wet clay. You will peel off the
paper covering AND the sheetrock will crumble. Plaster works much better
to leach the water out. Sheetrock is GREAT for wedging drier pieces and
if you take your pieces off the bat immediately after throwing, sheetrock
is really good to put them on.
Good luck with your new kiln.
Sharon Miranda wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been thinkg of buying a large piece of sheetrock to extend my work
> table which is on the small side (4' x 2 1/2'). I understand that it's a
> great way to work with slabs, soaks up the water nicely. What I wonder is
> how do you keep the paper coating on the sheetrock intact? doesn't it get
> easily pulled off and wrecked?
> thanks for any info
> Sharon - my new (and first!) kiln arrives tomorrow!
rdowns on tue 24 sep 96
When I started making tile, I bought a lot of sheet rock and made tile ware
boards out of it. It worked great. Then I built my house and had some
sheetrock left over. I decided to use it for more ware boards. My builder
used the cheapest materials available, not always a good idea! These ware
boards made out of cheap sheetrock are the pits. The paper is always trying
to come off whenever it gets a little damp. The older stuff is much
tougher. I don't know how you would grade the quality of the sheetrock, but
don't try to save a few pennies on this on, you will pay for it in buying
more sheetrock to replace this stuff really soon! It does not make a good
work surface on it's own. I would cover it with fabric, as someone else
suggested, if you want a work surface. Personally, I have found that good
plywood covered with canvas makes a good work surface.
Rose Downs
Dianna Rose Downs '83 BMW R100RS
2517 Greenfield biker and potter
Princeton, TX 75407 mutually exclusive#@$!@#
214-734-1329 http://www.why.net/home/gdowns/terra.html
Darrol F. Shillingburg on tue 24 sep 96
Sharon,
Sheetrock lacks structural strength, so it would need to be supported in some
way for use as a table. However, I think a sheet of MDO (Medium Density
Overlay)-a paper covered plywood that is water resistant to proof would last
much longer than sheetrock. I prefer working slabs and coils on canvas stretched
over the table surface. Any unprimed, medium weight, cotton duck canvas will
work fine.
I use small pieces of sheetrock under my handbuilt work cus it absorbs the water
from spraying so that the bottoms don't get soggy. I also dry strips and slabs
on sheetrock and/or between pieces of sheetrock, less curling. So it has many
uses, but as a table top I think you would be disappointed.
Darrol
Don Sanami on tue 24 sep 96
Dear Rose, There seems to be some misunderstanding: Sheetrock is a
specific material,a highly compressed mineral board. I would not use it as
a work surface for maqking tiles or pots to be sold to the public because
I have no way of knowing its exact composition and there is always the
risk that it might,(I repeat "might") contain a percentage of Asbestos
which could migrate into the clay nand be liberated,either in the kiln or
later. The fibres are extremely finen.We even find them in the air in
places where asbestos has been used as lagging on hot water or steam
pipes. Let me repeat that I do not know if Sheetrock contains asbestos,but
it is hardly worth the risak....especially to the potter. On Tue, 24 Sep
1996, rdowns wrote:
GYPROCK is an entirely different saubstance and,as you describe it
used in the construction of your house,it is composed of Plaster-of-Paris
spread between two sheets of light cardboard. It will degrade and there
is no doubt in my mind that light any plaster,it will show up as spits in
clay.donmorrill
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> When I started making tile, I bought a lot of sheet rock and made tile ware
> boards out of it. It worked great. Then I built my house and had some
> sheetrock left over. I decided to use it for more ware boards. My builder
> used the cheapest materials available, not always a good idea! These ware
> boards made out of cheap sheetrock are the pits. The paper is always trying
> to come off whenever it gets a little damp. The older stuff is much
> tougher. I don't know how you would grade the quality of the sheetrock, but
> don't try to save a few pennies on this on, you will pay for it in buying
> more sheetrock to replace this stuff really soon! It does not make a good
> work surface on it's own. I would cover it with fabric, as someone else
> suggested, if you want a work surface. Personally, I have found that good
> plywood covered with canvas makes a good work surface.
>
> Rose Downs
>
>
> Dianna Rose Downs '83 BMW R100RS
> 2517 Greenfield biker and potter
> Princeton, TX 75407 mutually exclusive#@$!@#
> 214-734-1329 http://www.why.net/home/gdowns/terra.html
>
Carl Ross on wed 25 sep 96
I got the video and the manuals for the kiln, however, I don't have a manual
for the vent or the Brent C I brought used from them. I had to call them a
few times and they called me back today to make sure everything is going
smoothly. I still need to get it hooked up to power and I also need to run
the duct work for the vent. It has to go up a flight of stairs and out the
back. The place I bought it from, Continental Clay, sent me about half the
furniture I'd need, so I had to order some more and they also sent me some
plastic dryer hose. When I called skutt, they said I could use anything but
plastic. Any suggestions?
Gotta Go,
Carl In Phillips
rdowns on wed 25 sep 96
I really don't like copying long replys, but this one I could not pass up.
At 11:05 PM 9/24/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dear Rose, There seems to be some misunderstanding: Sheetrock is a
>specific material,a highly compressed mineral board. I would not use it as
>a work surface for maqking tiles or pots to be sold to the public because
>I have no way of knowing its exact composition and there is always the
>risk that it might,(I repeat "might") contain a percentage of Asbestos
>which could migrate into the clay nand be liberated,either in the kiln or
>later. The fibres are extremely finen.We even find them in the air in
>places where asbestos has been used as lagging on hot water or steam
>pipes. Let me repeat that I do not know if Sheetrock contains asbestos,but
>it is hardly worth the risak....especially to the potter. On Tue, 24 Sep
>1996, rdowns wrote:
> GYPROCK is an entirely different saubstance and,as you describe it
>used in the construction of your house,it is composed of Plaster-of-Paris
>spread between two sheets of light cardboard. It will degrade and there
>is no doubt in my mind that light any plaster,it will show up as spits in
>clay.donmorrill
Don,
The only thing that I see at the lumber store is "sheetrock" and
"durarock" which is a cement type product. I have been using this "
sheetrock " for over 3 years and have never had a problem with the product
getting into the tile. After the tile are fired they are glazed and
installed, kind of seems hard to imagine some fiber comming off after all of
that! This product looks like what you describe as "gyprock" , we call it
gypboard also, but all the builders and sellers call it sheetrock. I have
NO SPITS. I probably have less than 1% rejects, and don't use duct tape on
the edges. As far as some kind of asbestos goes, I am not going to buy
anything that I know has it in it, but by the same common sense, I am not
going to live my life with my head stuck in a hole afraid of what might
happen. Overt paranioa is causing congress to pass laws about how we do
everything and I just happen to be old enough to decide some things for
myself and don't need a law to tell me what's ok, GOD gave me a brain for that.
Live informed, make wise decisions and live your life before it's over. I
refuse to live like a deer caught in headlights!
Rose Downs
Dianna Rose Downs '83 BMW R100RS
2517 Greenfield biker and potter
Princeton, TX 75407 mutually exclusive#@$!@#
214-734-1329 http://www.why.net/home/gdowns/terra.html
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