Tamara Nagel on fri 14 jun 96
Hi:
I am loocking for a shino recipe to take with me to my country. I am from
Chile and now i am going back.
Does anybody know a recipe and would like to help me?
Thanks
Tamara
WeinhardtA@aol.com on sat 15 jun 96
Tamara, you need to give us a little more information about how you fire
before we can supply a useful glaze recipe. I have dozens of shino recipes,
mostly useful at cone 8 or above and fired in a reduction atmosphere in gas
or wood fire. Please let us know. People on clayart are the best and I'm sure
if I can't help, a dozen others will offer their assistance.
Albert Weinhardt
99 Bowls of Tea on the Wall
WeinhardtA@AOL.COM
Barney Adams on fri 30 jul 99
In September I am taking a class at the local jr college.
Introductory potter's wheel. I would prefer a more advanced
class, but the main office just put you in the normal queue for
classes. The main reason I signed up is they fire reduction ^9.
I hope the instructor will show me how to fire the gas kiln.
Meanwhile in preparing for my adventure into the reduction
firing. I want to develop or at least explore the Shino glazes.
There is a tea bowl in the Ceramics Monthly - the one by Mel
when he was showing the results from his ITC salt kiln. I think
I saw either the same tea bowl or another when I was in MN.
I really like the orange and white of the shino glazes.
I entered the Hamer supplied Shino glaze into Insight.
Neph Syen 75
Ball clay 25
>From the results I would guess this is a ^14 glaze?
To apply somethinglike this for ^9 I took this approach:
NEPHELINE SYENITE... 48.00 48.00%
OM #4 BALL CLAY..... 7.00 7.00%
DOLOMITE............ 12.00 12.00%
STRONTIUM CARBONATE. 3.00 3.00%
SILICA.............. 30.00 30.00%
========
100.00
CaO 0.29* 4.47%
MgO 0.25* 2.79%
K2O 0.09* 2.47%
Na2O 0.30* 5.12%
Fe2O3 0.00 0.20%
TIO2 0.00 0.09%
AL2O3 0.50 14.33%
SiO2 4.07 68.24%
SrO 0.08* 2.28%
COST/KG 1.20
Si:Al 8.09
SiB:Al 8.09
EXPAN483.11
Does this look like it's going in the righ direction for a Shino at cone
9?
Barney
June Perry on sun 1 aug 99
Here's some cone 9 shinos. Your revision of the 75, 25 recipe will not give
you what you want.
Cone 9 Shino(this is probably the same recipe you have.I'm not awake enough
to do the math!)
Nepheline Syenite 100
Iron bearing ball clay 40
(Use OM #4 or one with higher iron for more orange/red)
Shino cone 9
Nepheline syenite 100
OM #4 Ball clay 100
Custer Feldspar 100
Enjoy!
June
David Cuzick on mon 2 aug 99
Here is a good shino glaze that I have used for years.
SHINO ^9-10 Reduction
Neph. Sy. 68.2 %
K. Ball (OM4) 18.2
Spodumene 4.5
EPK 4.5
Soda ash 4.5
Shino glazes need a good early reduction and work best (for the orange color)
on buff to med. iron bearing clay bodies.
Good luck, David Cuzick in San Diego, CA
Claycuzian@aol.com
John K Dellow on mon 2 aug 99
Barney ,
the most important thing with true shino is the firing
cycle . back in 1983 Bill Samules ,a shino fanatic, hired my kiln
to do a 200 hour shino firing.
He started with the pilots for 24 hours and cut most of the air
to them so that they were reducing. This was to get carbon trap
as early as possible. this carbon trap gives then nine orange
blush. The firing was kept in reduction with the ade of an
oxyprobe .from memory the recipe he used was similar to the one
you posted . He fired to C10 , but the pyo only registered 1100 c
max .
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
ICQ : #2193986 {jacka}
E-mail : dellowjk@kewl.com.au
25 Hugh Guinea Ct, Worongary Q 4213
Ph:+61-7-55302875 Fax:+61-7-55253585
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
OK XXXVI
For in the Market-place,one Dusk of day,
I watch'd the Potter thumping his wet Clay:
And with its all obliterated Tongue
It murmur'd-"Gently,Brother,gently,pray!"
Ron Roy on mon 2 aug 99
Hi Barney,
Absolutely not - no way - never will be.
Shino glazes are high alkaline and high alumina - they are way outside the
limits. It would be very hard to forecast their melting from the Seger
formula. Any way the key is - keep the CaO and the MgO low and keep the
ratio (silica to alumina) below 5. There is a case for lithium in shino
glazes - to try and stop the crazing - I have never had a shino checked for
durability - seems to me that would be a sort of miracle if they were.
There is a wonderful article on shino's in the December 92 issue of The
Studio Potter by Jim Robinson. 49 recipes to be exact including one from
our own Tom Wirt.
Last time I looked there were still back issues of this one still available
check out their web site:
http://www.studiopotter.org/
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>In September I am taking a class at the local jr college.
>Introductory potter's wheel. I would prefer a more advanced
>class, but the main office just put you in the normal queue for
>classes. The main reason I signed up is they fire reduction ^9.
>I hope the instructor will show me how to fire the gas kiln.
>
>Meanwhile in preparing for my adventure into the reduction
>firing. I want to develop or at least explore the Shino glazes.
>There is a tea bowl in the Ceramics Monthly - the one by Mel
>when he was showing the results from his ITC salt kiln. I think
>I saw either the same tea bowl or another when I was in MN.
>I really like the orange and white of the shino glazes.
>
>I entered the Hamer supplied Shino glaze into Insight.
>
>Neph Syen 75
>Ball clay 25
>
>From the results I would guess this is a ^14 glaze?
>To apply somethinglike this for ^9 I took this approach:
>NEPHELINE SYENITE... 48.00 48.00%
> OM #4 BALL CLAY..... 7.00 7.00%
> DOLOMITE............ 12.00 12.00%
> STRONTIUM CARBONATE. 3.00 3.00%
> SILICA.............. 30.00 30.00%
> ========
> 100.00
>
> CaO 0.29* 4.47%
> MgO 0.25* 2.79%
> K2O 0.09* 2.47%
> Na2O 0.30* 5.12%
> Fe2O3 0.00 0.20%
> TIO2 0.00 0.09%
> AL2O3 0.50 14.33%
> SiO2 4.07 68.24%
> SrO 0.08* 2.28%
>
> COST/KG 1.20
> Si:Al 8.09
> SiB:Al 8.09
> EXPAN483.11
>
>Does this look like it's going in the righ direction for a Shino at cone
>9?
>
>Barney
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Barney Adams on tue 3 aug 99
Thanks for the recipes. Could you give me some details as to why my
revison would not work? Is it the amount of KNaO? The Al2O3 seems
very high. Is this a requirement too? Tom Wirt told me many Shinos
utilize a combination of Neph, spumene and soda ash. I imagine the
lithium in the spodumene is to adjust expansion. Both the Neph and
spodumene add considerable Al2O3. I'm guessing the over abundance
of KnaO allows this glaze to melt at ^9?
My trying too keep within the limits for ^9 inhibit the Shino?
always trying to see why,
Barney
June Perry wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Here's some cone 9 shinos. Your revision of the 75, 25 recipe will not give
> you what you want.
>
> Cone 9 Shino(this is probably the same recipe you have.I'm not awake enough
> to do the math!)
>
> Nepheline Syenite 100
> Iron bearing ball clay 40
> (Use OM #4 or one with higher iron for more orange/red)
>
> Shino cone 9
>
> Nepheline syenite 100
> OM #4 Ball clay 100
> Custer Feldspar 100
>
> Enjoy!
> June
Tom Wirt on wed 4 aug 99
From: Ron Roy
Subject: Re: Shino glaze
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> There is a wonderful article on Shino's in the December 92 issue of The
> Studio Potter by Jim Robinson. 49 recipes to be exact including one from
> our own Tom Wirt.
Ron,
Got to correct this. It was my sister's work in a class with Warren
MacKenzie in 1974 that apparently started the long chain of "New World"
shinos. At the time she named it University Carbon Trap (UCT) which has
been seen in variations in many schools and studios. She used Spodumene and
soda ash as key components and NephSyenite because it was "less pure", i.e.
had more oxides than other spars.
Just so as to not get credit.
Tom Wirt
June Perry on thu 5 aug 99
Some people think the lithium contributes a bit to the red coloring in a
shino. It can also has a lower coefficient of expansion than the other
fluxes, which can possibly keep down some crazing.
Your revised glaze is too balanced for a Shino! :-) Shinos pinhole, and/or
craze because they are deliciously out of balance. :-)
Regards,
June
Ruth Ballou on thu 5 aug 99
I thought the Wirt Shino referred to one developed by Virginia Wirt at the
University of Minnesota with Warren MacKenzie, at least that's what the
article says....... Is Tom related? spouse? sibling? clone, full size or
mini a la Austin Powers?
Inquiring minds want to know....
Ruth Ballou
>
>There is a wonderful article on shino's in the December 92 issue of The
>Studio Potter by Jim Robinson. 49 recipes to be exact including one from
>our own Tom Wirt.
>
>Last time I looked there were still back issues of this one still available
>check out their web site:
>
>http://www.studiopotter.org/
>
>
>Ron Roy
>93 Pegasus Trail
>Scarborough, Ontario
>Canada M1G 3N8
>Tel: 416-439-2621
>Fax: 416-438-7849
>
>Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Ruth Ballou on fri 6 aug 99
Barney,
Hyperglaze gives separate limits for Shino glazes, but I don't want to give
you a bum steer because many of the glazes in Jim Robinson's article don't
follow even these modified limits and I would hate to inadvertently short
circuit any experimentation. But here goes anyway:
> .2 K2O
+/-.6 Na2O
+/-.1 Li2O
Trace CaO
Trace MgO
.9 - 1.2 Al2O3
4 - 5 SiO2
In addition to Jim Robinson's article, check out Ian Currie's book,
Stoneware Glazes: A Systematic Approach. Robinson gives a brief history of
Shinos along with the 49 recipes divided into 5 categories. Currie explores
the recipes and firing schedules of historical and modern shinos. Shinos
are deceptively simple glazes, as minor changes in the formula, clay body,
firing, or application can result in dramatically different effects. The
bare bones of it is that the Shinos we think of today are typically high
alumina, silica rich glazes, sodium being the primary flux, with little or
no calcium or magnesium. High alumina helps with color development. Calcium
will interfere with the development of the fire color. You can read more
about the iron and calcium relationship in Currie or the Hamers' book. The
early Shinos did have some calcium, and were heavier on the potassium, but
these glazes look very different from what most potters characterize as
Shino today. They were put on pretty thick and the result was a crackled
white surface. In fact, the early Shinos are thought to be an attempt to
make a white ceramic in imitation of refined Chinese porcelain. The early
Shinos used coarsely ground materials and depended on a very long firing to
bring the glaze to maturity and create the red "fire color." If you can,
check out the great examples at the Freer in DC. Today, by using finely
ground neph sye, fire color is easily obtained without an extended firing.
The soda ash/soluable soda factor has already been mentioned. Then there's
crawling, if you want it, affected by the type and quantity of clay in the
glaze and the thickness of the glaze application. A little bit of iron
helps in the clay and/or glaze, and some potters have experimented with
additions of iron bearing clays with interesting results. The two sources
have much more to say. They're page turners.
Ruth Ballou
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Thanks for the recipes. Could you give me some details as to why my
>revison would not work? Is it the amount of KNaO? The Al2O3 seems
>very high. Is this a requirement too? Tom Wirt told me many Shinos
>utilize a combination of Neph, spumene and soda ash. I imagine the
>lithium in the spodumene is to adjust expansion. Both the Neph and
>spodumene add considerable Al2O3. I'm guessing the over abundance
>of KnaO allows this glaze to melt at ^9?
>
>My trying too keep within the limits for ^9 inhibit the Shino?
>
>always trying to see why,
>Barney
>
Mike Bailey on sat 7 aug 99
Re the discussion about oxidised shino (look alikes)
Here's the recipe for one that we make which might be of interest. It's
called BP28S Shino for cone 6 - 8. (It's very shiny at ^8)
Fires a semi opaque off white with reddish speckled breaks on the edges
of rims etc. and where thin.
Nepheline syenite 33.0
Calcium borate frit 5.0
China clay 15.0
Talc 21.0
Whiting 12.0
Zinc oxide 3.0
Quartz 16.0
plus
Red iron oxide 2.0
Tin oxide 6.0
David Hewitt's programme gives this analysis
k20 0.04
Na20 0.12
CaO 0.35
MgO 0.39
ZnO 0.09
Al2O3 0.32
B2O3 0.09
Fe2O3 0.03
SiO2 2.23
SnO2 0.10
Cheers,
Mike Bailey.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Some people think the lithium contributes a bit to the red coloring in a
>shino. It can also has a lower coefficient of expansion than the other
>fluxes, which can possibly keep down some crazing.
>Your revised glaze is too balanced for a Shino! :-) Shinos pinhole, and/or
>craze because they are deliciously out of balance. :-)
>
>Regards,
>June
>
--
Mike Bailey
mel jacobson on mon 20 mar 00
question from a clayarter that i do not have the complete
answer to.
mel/mn
I have a Shino carbon-trap glaze as follows:
custer feld. 30
spodumene 25
ball clay 15
EPK 15
gerstley borate 3
bone ash 2
soda ash 8
superpax 3
I fire it to cone 11. It looks best thick but the trouble is that it is
very flocculated in the glaze bucket, goes on looking thick, takes forever
to dry, and in the end is actually too thin. Any attempt to put more glaze
on causes crawling. I've tried using CMC gum without success. I've also
tried deflocculating the glaze with Darvan and/or Sodium Silicate without
luck. Does anyone have any ideas?
minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a
http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
June Perry on tue 21 mar 00
Just let the whole batch dry out and then reconstitute it. That may correct
the problem. At first glance it seems like too little gerstley to cause the
problem???
Regards,
June
Craig Martell on tue 21 mar 00
mel axed:
>question from a clayarter that i do not have the complete answer to.
>
>I have a Shino carbon-trap glaze as follows:
> custer feld. 30
> spodumene 25
> ball clay 15
> EPK 15
> gerstley borate 3
> bone ash 2
> soda ash 8
> superpax 3
>I fire it to cone 11. It looks best thick but the trouble is that it is
>very flocculated in the glaze bucket, goes on looking thick, takes forever
>to dry, and in the end is actually too thin. Any attempt to put more glaze
>on causes crawling.
Hi:
I would say that the high clay content is fer sher the culprit here. High
raw shrinkage in the glaze will cause poor adherence to the glazed ware
etc. The drying thing is caused by the hi clay as well.
The simplest solution would be to calcine some of the clay to cut raw
shrinkage and long drying time. You have to figure the LOI (loss on
ignition) for the calcined clays and adjust the per cent addition to the
receipe. Another solution is to reformulate the glaze for some alumina
oxide and cut the clay a bit to keep the alumina at the same molar
amount. I use alumina ox in some of my shinos and find them to be nice and
red and fat after firing. But the calcining would work too if you don't
wanna mess with reformulating the glaze.
LOI for epk kaolin is, 13.91. LOI for om#4 ball clay is, 12.6. You don't
say what kind of ball you are using so I'll give you the ideal, or generic
LOI for ball clay, which is, 12.2.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
Tom Buck on wed 22 mar 00
mel, et al:
When a glaze misbehaves, you have a choice: change the process; or
change the glaze recipe.
Process: this mix probably would serve best if it were dry mixed
in advance and then watered and placed on the ware immediately. This mix
cannot remain "uniform" over several days; the Li+ and Na+ ions will cause
small particle clumping, and possibly some Na2CO3 (soda ash) crystals will
form and settle.
Recipe: a revised recipe that may give a better result:
Shino C10/11 reduction
47 Custer feldspar
23 Spodumene
17 Hommel frit 259 (FF3269 and\or Pemco P25)
1 Whiting
2 Bone ash
10 EPK kaolin
3 Superpax (Zircopax)
This mix will come close to the original (maybe a bit more fluid so drop
down a cone). It will not relase as many Li+ or Na+ ions, so it may
exhibit an adequate shelf-life.
Molecularly:
CaO 0.15 (old 0.15) P2O5 0.03 (0.03) SiO2 4.77 (3.98)
Li2O 0.27 (0.28) B2O3 0.18 (0.05) ZrO2 0.07 (0.07)
MgO 0.00 (0.01) Al2O3 0.91 (0.95
K2O 0.31 (0.16)
Na2O 0.26 (0.41)
ZnO 0.01 (0.00)
The SiO2/Al2O3 ratio is 5.2 (4.1), ie, still matt range.
Expansion/contraction: 7.3x10-6 (7.7), down a bit may
make for a better fit.
Good tests. BFN. Peace. Tom B.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
On Mon, 20 Mar 2000, mel jacobson wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> question from a clayarter that i do not have the complete
> answer to.
> mel/mn
>
> I have a Shino carbon-trap glaze as follows:
> custer feld. 30
> spodumene 25
> ball clay 15
> EPK 15
> gerstley borate 3
> bone ash 2
> soda ash 8
> superpax 3
> I fire it to cone 11. It looks best thick but the trouble is that it is
> very flocculated in the glaze bucket, goes on looking thick, takes forever
> to dry, and in the end is actually too thin. Any attempt to put more glaze
> on causes crawling. I've tried using CMC gum without success. I've also
> tried deflocculating the glaze with Darvan and/or Sodium Silicate without
> luck. Does anyone have any ideas?
> minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
Cindy Griffis on fri 31 aug 01
I feel silly asking this question, so please forgive my ignorance.
(I'm still a neophyte!)
What are the characteristics of Shino glazes and slips? Are they
only used/fired in wood or reduction? Since I'm a newbie firing with
an old Duncan electric kiln, I've been using commerical glazes, and
don't see anything for Shino in the catalogs, or websites where I buy
my glaze. Is it possible that I could fire Shino glazes? Could I
fire them if I used one of those gas kilns that fire with propane?
(City limits, city laws.....)
(I don't think my kiln will go much above cone 7 or 8, and I have too
much respect/fear to even consider some of the 'reduction' aides I've
read about on Clayart. ie, mothballs, etc.)
TIA
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
http://im.yahoo.com
| |
|
