Lesley Alexander on sat 21 jun 97
Any Shino glaze experts out there? I've admired it's transparent
warm orange-brown glaze, it's sheen and usability for dinnerware. But I've
twice tested 12 formulas, from the Glaze base and Coleman's studio, and get
either an off-white (thick) or touches of brown on a very dry surface (very
thin). The latter was done in a copper red firing that got copper reds, so
it would seem the reduction was sufficient. Am I chasing an elusive wild
goose? Should I settle for stains in a clear glaze?
Craig Martell on mon 23 jun 97
At 11:12 PM 6/21/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Any Shino glaze experts out there?
Hi Lesley:
I'm not an expert on Shinos but I do use them. Not knowing what formulas
you have used I can't really make any specific comments.
Shino glazes can be white when applied too thickly. You get the nice red
"fire color" from iron in the claybody, under a thin application of the
glaze. If your body is low in iron, you can try iron bearing slips.
Ian Currie has some very valuable info and suggestions about shino glazes in
his book Stoneware Glazes, A Systematic Approach.
Do you have the formula for Wirk's Carbon Trap? That's a real tried and
true reliable shino glaze. If you don't, I can give it to you.
Also, if you use Spodumene in any of the Shinos, I would suggest not using
Chemical grade Spod. It has too much iron and muddys the color IMHO.
Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
Paul Lewing on tue 24 jun 97
Lesley,
The real expert on shino glazes is Malcolm Davis, who lives in the
Alexandria, VA/ Washington DC area. He has does a workshop on
throwing teapots (which he is also a master of) and shino glazes.
It's one of the workshops that will soon be listed in the Studio
Potter Network Workshop Leaders File. His e-mail address is
Shinom@aol.com. I don't know where you are, but I'm sure Malcolm
would love to come and do a workshop in your area. Guaranteed you'd
have a great time, and learn a lot.
Paul Lewing, Seattle,
where it only rained a little for a few hours today. Must be Summer.
Karen Gringhuis on wed 25 jun 97
Lesley - If you don't have the recipe for Porcelain Shino
(also att. to David Shaner), write me back. It's quite even &
gives a lovely gold where thick - NOT the creepy crawly white
thick of some shinos. Karen Gringhuis
The Slack-DeBrock Family on fri 27 jun 97
I would be very interested in the porcelain shino glaze you mentioned in
your post. There seem to be many variations and the colors we acheive in
the wood kiln are varied too. Always looking for a new experiment!
Joan Slack-DeBrock/River Run Pottery
P.O.Box 95
McNaughton, WI 54543
715-277-2773
riverrun@newnorth.net
Bob Hanlin on sun 29 jun 97
Joan:
There's a good Shino for wood firing called "Wirtz Carbon Trap". Ken
Ferguson used to give it out at his workshops. I can't lay my hands on it
right now but maybe someone else can and will share it.
At 09:05 AM 6/27/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I would be very interested in the porcelain shino glaze you mentioned in
>your post. There seem to be many variations and the colors we acheive in
>the wood kiln are varied too. Always looking for a new experiment!
>
>Joan Slack-DeBrock/River Run Pottery
>P.O.Box 95
>McNaughton, WI 54543
>715-277-2773
>riverrun@newnorth.net
>
>
Bob Hanlin
bhanlin@ionet.net
Oklahoma City, OK
Grimmer on mon 30 jun 97
Hi,
There are as many versions of Wirt's Carbon Trap (Attributed to Virginia Wirt)
there are spellings of her last name. This glaze, like all Shino-type glazes, is
heavily sensitive to body composition, firing schedule, age of the glaze batch,
application, et cetera. There was a _fantastic_ article by Steve Robinson in
Studio Potter a few years back, called "Revival Fires." He really goes into the
mechanisms of this family of glazes. This article will get you started on
develpoing a Shino-type glaze that works on your clay body and gives the results
you are after.
Anyroad, here's another version of Wirt's Carbon Trap. It will have to be tested
and fixed to work on your clay body.
Wirt's Revised C.T. ^10 R
15 Kona F4
12 Spodumene
3 EPK
50 Neph Sy.
17 Ball Blay
3 Soda Ash
I think the original had 10% soda ash!
steve grimmer
carterville illinois
Bob Hanlin wrote:
> Joan:
> There's a good Shino for wood firing called "Wirtz Carbon Trap". Ken
> Ferguson used to give it out at his workshops. I can't lay my hands on it
> right now but maybe someone else can and will share it.
>
June Perry on tue 8 jul 97
Here are some shino recipes. Some may be new to you. To get good red shinos
you have to reduce quite early and apply fairly thin. Too thin and you get
the dry look you mentioned. So you need to just do some testing with your
claybody. Some suggest that you let the glazed ware sit for a week to allow
the soda to migrate to the surface. I have never had to do that to get good
red shinos. I do reduce lightly, quite early and then oxidize for a bit and
then go into medium reduction for the remainder of the firing. Sometimes I
alternate between medium and heavy reduction depending on the effect I want.
The red shinos can go from a soft pretty apricot/peach color to a very deep
reddish orange when there is more and heavier reduction.
Here are those recipes:
#1188 White/Orange/Pink super carbon trap ^10
Potspar 15.16
Spodumene 16.00
Soda Ash 4.21
Nepheline Syenite 47.37
Ball Clay 17.26
#1006 Orange Shino type carbon trap ^10
Soda Ash 4.0
Kona F4 18.4
Nepheline Syenite 45.0
Spodumene 15.2
EPK 2.4
OM4 Ball Clay 15.0
#1013 Peach to Red Shino ^10 - 11
Nepheline Syenite 39.3
Spodumene 30.6
OM4 Ball Clay 17.2
Soda Ash 8.0
EPK 4.8
#1127 Red Shino ^10
Nepheline Syenite 28.57
EPK 26.79
Red Horse Clay 44.64
#1227 Ferguson Shino ^10(this is a nice buttery smooth shino and may be what
you are looking for. Firing it to a flat cone 10 or even 11 may give you the
glassier look you want for dinnerware.)
Kona F4 14.6
Spodumene 12.5
EPK 2.9
Nepheline Syenite 50.0
OM4 Ball Clay 16.7
Soda Ash 3.3
#789 Orange Shino ^9
Nepheline Syenite 53.66
Potspar 41.46
OM4 Ball Clay 2.44
Red Clay* 2.44
*red mule, red horse, etc. If use Redart could probably go ^10
#790 Red Shino ^9
Nepheline Syenite 20
Potspar 40
OM4 Ball Clay 40
Shino C10 (you may also try N spar which only has sodium in the ro column)
Nepheline Syenite 80
OM4 Ball Clay 20
Shino C10
Potspar 75
OM4 Ball Clay 25
Michael Cardew Shino#3153
Nepheline Syenite 8lbs. 4 oz.
Potash Feldspar 8lbs. 8 oz.
Ball Clay 2lbs. 4 oz.
Bentonite 1lb.
Etruria Marl .14oz*
*possibly a salt - perhaps add 5% salt and 1% Red Iron Oxide
I have a lot more but I don't have the time at the moment to go looking them
up. It's gardening season! :-)
Good luck!
June
Craig Martell on thu 10 jul 97
Many thanks to June Perry for all the shino receipes. I never thought of
using red or iron bearing clays in shinos to enhance the color. So I mixed
up some tests and fired them yesterday. I have two different local slips
that might work nicely. Thanx for the push June!
Ian Currie has a great section on shino glazes and firing schedules in his
book, Stoneware Glazes-A Systematic Approach.
Craig Martell-Oregon...really excited about the new Bugs Bunny postage stamps!
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