search  current discussion  categories  glazes - traditional iron glazes 

shino glazes

updated tue 18 mar 03

 

tony nankervis on sat 15 jun 96

Tamara from Chile asked for some shino glazes - These are some that were
posted on CLAYART some time back plus a couple of extras.

But Tamara, you should find the Jim Robinson article "Revival Fires:
Another Face for Shino" in The Studio Potter magazine vol 21 no 1 Dec 92.
It is very comprehensive on the different styles of "shino-type" glazes.

Jack Troy's excellent book on woodfiring also has some recipes

I normally respond to these sorts of posts directly - but decided that
others might be interested in chasing up the Robinson article. Cheers
Tony

Tony Nankervis
Ceramics Dept
Visual Arts
Southern Cross University
Lismore 2480 NSW Australia

John Baymore on sat 25 oct 97

------------------
Hi all.

One of the best references around on this subject is the articel done in
Studio Potter magazine on shino glazes. It is by Jim Robinson and is
titled =22Revival Fires=22. It starts with an analysis of a glaze chip from=
a
Japanese shino pot in the Freer, and then divulges off into the various
types of more =22American=22 shinos. It is the December 1992 issue, Volume=
21
No. 1. That overall SP issues focus is Japan and America.

I think it is still available as a back issue (????) for =246.00. Call
Julie Williams at 603-774-3582.

Best,

.................john

John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086 USA

603-654-2752
JBaymore=40Compuserve.com

Bob Hanlin on fri 22 sep 00


Mix your soda ash with some hot water in a blender or some thing that will
stir the dickens out of it. It can then be added to the liquit glaze and be
careful when you stir it, it'll foam on ya.

Hope this helps

Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Viki Gable"
To:
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 11:31 AM
Subject: Shino glazes


> I am testing shino glazes. All of them use soda ash as an ingredient. When
I
> add water
> to the dry ingredients the soda ash crystalized or "clumped" up. Does
anyone
> know how to
> prevent this from happening, or the correct
> way to mix these glazes. I would appreciate
> help with this problem. Thank you. Viki G.
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://profiles.msn.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Viki Gable on fri 22 sep 00


I am testing shino glazes. All of them use soda ash as an ingredient. When I
add water
to the dry ingredients the soda ash crystalized or "clumped" up. Does anyone
know how to
prevent this from happening, or the correct
way to mix these glazes. I would appreciate
help with this problem. Thank you. Viki G.
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://profiles.msn.com.

Karen Sullivan on fri 22 sep 00


on 9/22/00 9:31 AM, Viki Gable at vikig26@HOTMAIL.COM wrote:

> I am testing shino glazes. All of them use soda ash as an ingredient. When I
> add water
> to the dry ingredients the soda ash crystalized or "clumped" up. Does anyone
> know how to
> prevent this from happening, or the correct
> way to mix these glazes. I would appreciate
> help with this problem. Thank you. Viki G.
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://profiles.msn.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Try mixing the soda ash in HOT water so it dissolves, then pour it into the
glaze bucket
bamboo karen

Hank Murrow on fri 22 sep 00


Vicki wrote;

>I am testing shino glazes. All of them use soda ash as an ingredient. When I
>add water
>to the dry ingredients the soda ash crystalized or "clumped" up. Does anyone
>know how to
>prevent this from happening?


Dear Vicki; When I have to use this material, I dissolve the required soda
ash in HOT water and add that to the dry glaze ingredients. However, in my
current Shino-revival recipes there is no soda ash, as i like the results
without it. There's a world beyond soda ash in Shino-revival!
Hope this helps, Hank(no soda ash shinos)Murrow

Cindy Strnad on fri 22 sep 00


Hi, Viki.

Always add the dry ingredients to the water. It works much better that way.
And don't forget your mask. I really do always use mine--none of that stuff
is good in your lungs.

Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com

John Baymore on sat 23 sep 00



When I add water to the dry ingredients the soda ash crystalized or
"clumped" up. Does anyone know how to prevent this from happening, or the=

correct way to mix these glazes. =



Viki,

My shino glazes are high soda with no lithium....closer to Japanese
ones......... so mine all have lots of soda ash.

Take some boiling hot water and disolve the soda ash that you have weighe=
d
out into THAT pure water. You'll have to experiment as to the amount
necessary to do the job for the size batch you are mixing .......so you
don't have too much water . Stir frequently until fully disolved (no
white powder in the bottom of the container). Don't splash this
concentrated solution into your eyes (!) or get it onto your skin for too=

long.

Mix the rest of the ingredients as usual. Start to add water to them unt=
il
quite thick ....still lumpy...and then add the soda ash / water solution =
to
the partially mixed batch (watch eyes from splashing). Stir it up......a=
nd
add any additional water to the batch to get the specific gravity or
viscosity to the point you desire.

Good luck.


Best,

...........................john


John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086 USA

603-654-2752 (s)
800-900-1110 (s)

JBaymore@compuserve.com
John.Baymore@GSD-CO.com

"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop August 18-27,
2000"

Earl Brunner on sun 16 mar 03


At NCECA I saw a fairly good Shino LOOKING cone 5-6 oxidation, electric
glaze (no carbon trapping, but has many of the color and surface
qualities). I took a brochure, but it apparently didn't make it home
with me. Perhaps someone else ?Who was there might have the
information.

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Maris
Bonanno
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 1:35 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Shino Glazes

I was at the American Craft Council show today and was speaking to an
artist
who does wood fire shino glazing. She said she had heard about a cone
10
shino for electric firing. I was wondering if anyone knows about it and
if
they would be willing to share the information.
Thanks,
Maris Bonanno

________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Maris Bonanno on sun 16 mar 03


I was at the American Craft Council show today and was speaking to an artist
who does wood fire shino glazing. She said she had heard about a cone 10
shino for electric firing. I was wondering if anyone knows about it and if
they would be willing to share the information.
Thanks,
Maris Bonanno