Michael Karpowich on thu 17 apr 97
I'm thrilled to now have an indoor studio with a sink (instead of hauling
water in buckets) but am faced with the problem of installing some kind of
trap under the sink to keep the pipes from clogging up. Does anyone have
any ideas on how to construct a clay trap that I can do myself? You can
post on Clayart or e-mail me directly at karpowic@tir.com
THANKS!!
Deni Karpowich -- where it's STILL not spring in Michigan!
Linda McNary on sun 20 apr 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm thrilled to now have an indoor studio with a sink (instead of hauling
>water in buckets) but am faced with the problem of installing some kind of
>trap under the sink to keep the pipes from clogging up. Does anyone have
>any ideas on how to construct a clay trap that I can do myself? You can
>post on Clayart or e-mail me directly at karpowic@tir.com
>THANKS!!
>
>Deni Karpowich -- where it's STILL not spring in Michigan!
Reply:
The easiest "contraption" (no pun intended) I've seen is a length of pvc
pipe that fits snuggly inside the sink's drain hole. How tall it is
depends on the depth of your sink, but it should be at least a foot below
the rim. (I wish I could draw a picture!!!) When you dump your throwing
water, (into the sink, not into the pvc pipe opening!!!) pour off the water
slowly, leaving as much of the bottom sediment as possible in your bucket.
Remove the sediment by hand into your clay recycling bin. The water in the
sink will accumulate up to the opening of the pvc pipe and then drain from
the top. The clay that does go into the sink will settle and accumulate on
the bottom. Always pour slowly to minimize the turbulence. You can use the
facets with no trouble, just don't turn them on too fast. Your sink must be
cleaned occassionally depending on how careful you are with the amount of
clay that goes into the sink with the water. To clean the sink out, you
need to siphon off the water and remove the clay by hand, but this
shouldn't need to be done more than once or twice a year, if you are
careful. Good luck.
Linda in Minneapolis where spring is getting closer every day...
Kris Baum on sun 20 apr 97
When we constructed my studio in our basement, we installed a "plaster
trap" that is used in dental offices (to catch errant plaster before it
goes down the drain). These can be purchased from a dental supply house
(and perhaps elsewhere?) It works wonderfully - I let lots of clay and
even very small plaster particles go down the sink, and I use the sink as
my bucket when mopping the floor. The plaster trap has a plastic liner
that needs replacing every once in a while when it fills up with clay and
junk - a fiddly procedure, but not overly complicated.
--
===============================================
Kris Baum, Shubunkin Pottery,
mailto:shubunki@erols.com
===============================================
Ric Swenson on sun 20 apr 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm thrilled to now have an indoor studio with a sink (instead of hauling
>water in buckets) but am faced with the problem of installing some kind of
>trap under the sink to keep the pipes from clogging up. Does anyone have
>any ideas on how to construct a clay trap that I can do myself? You can
>post on Clayart or e-mail me directly at karpowic@tir.com
>THANKS!!
>
>Deni Karpowich -- where it's STILL not spring in Michigan!
--------reply--------
Clayarters......
It just so happens I wrote an illustrated article for Ceramics Monthly ,
MANY MOONS AGO.
Like 1978 or so?
I will dig up a copy of the article...I think it was a one-pager....and fax
it to you if you send me your fax number. By the way....I noticed that the
orthropedic surgeons office where they do plaster casts...has a unit that
looks " bought off the shelf..and resembles the plastic 5 gallon pail sink
trap I designed for my own studio some 20 years ago. (A call to your local
saw bones may give you the info on where and how much those bandits charge
for their sink trap unit. Doctors probably pay more for that kind of high
tech...medical equipment than potters do...d'ya think?) (wink, wink )
If you don't have a fax, send me your snailmail address and I will mail it
to you. Offer open to anyone with interest.
Happy potting.
Ric Swenson, Bennington, Vermont
rswenson@bennington.edu
Barbrox@aol.com on sun 20 apr 97
I simply use a plastic dish pan. The clay sinks to the bottom and the
overflow goes down the drain. I usually siphon off the water on top at the
beginning of the day and empty the dish pan about once a week.
Barbara in Lyme, Ct.
Teresa Murphy(TMurphy889@aol.com) on mon 21 apr 97
Deni,
I can tell you how they do it at my school studio since I don't have a sink
in my studio.(yet) From the drain there is a pipe that runs straight about
6-8 inches. Directly under this pipe, a bucket( the ones used in food
production, pickles, etc.) is
placed. An elbow with a small length of pipe (about 4 in)is attached to the
pipe going into the wall. The elbow and the small extension are hung over
the edge of the bucket so the extension is within the bucket itself. The
theory behind this is that as the water flows into the bucket, the heavier
material will sink to the bottom, and the
rest will flow nicely into the drain pipe and out into the street, etc. Hope
this helps!
Tmurphy
Richard Ramirez on mon 21 apr 97
Hello,
This is what I use as a simple sink trap. In a classroom where 32+ students,
and 1/2 doz. wheels are constantly working, like a bunch of Africian toads
burrowing in the mud before Africian summer comes, it seems to work rather
well.
We have only one medium (28"x18"x9") size stainless steel sink in a room that
measures 120'x160', a good size classroom. So all throwing clay water, empty
slip containers, water bowls for hand building, and water bowls to dilute
glaze or wash paint brushes find there way to this small sink at the of our
10 minute cleaning period, not to mention teenagers habit of primping before
the sink and mirrior thats near by!
I use a plastic bucket that fits under the goose neck facuet, and still have
room for students to wash hands or brushes or rinse small bowels, and catches
water from the facuet and students' cleanings. Even as the bucket fills up
with water, heavier clay and stuff settles to the bottom of the bucket,
runoff water flows down toward the sinks drain strainer and catches anything
that the plastic bucket didn't catch. With a gravity flow trap under the
sink, and the above plactic bucket stink trap , we only have to call the
districts' plumber out once at mid-year to clean out the trap from under
the sink.
So you see for our situation it works well, at the end of the day I just
drain the bucket and toss out the bottom sludge out. Try for an easy and
cheap and effective sink trap.
R12396, Richard Ramirez "The Clay Stalker"
BWINER@UKCC.uky.edu on mon 21 apr 97
You must have used a different plaster trap than I have had installed in my
sink. Mine did not work at all. Although I let very little clay go down my
sink, the trap got clogged and was a real pain to clean. I finally had it
removed and am now using a bucket in my sink into which I wash my tools, bats,
etc. Everyday before I get started working I poor off the clear water from the
top of the bucket. After a coule ofweeks I have mostly clay in the bucket and
use it for recycling. This is very simple and works well.
clennell on sat 25 dec 99
i know someone on Clayart has plans for one. I searched the archives but
can't seem to locate it. If someone can help me I'd appreciate it. I have
to fix our sink. It's the first thing in my job jar for Y2.
thanks a bunch.
Cheers,
Tony
Tony and Sheila Clennell
Sour Cherry Pottery
4545 King St.
Beamsville, On. L0R 1B1
http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
e-mail:clennell@bestnet.org
905-563-9382
fax 905-563-9383
Dorothy Weber on sun 26 dec 99
I just noticed this thread and also just built my own sink trap. I looked all
over for the old plans but could not find them. however let me tell you how I
did it, because mine seems to work very well and it is simple. Just remove
the existing trap (the piece that is like a half circle from under the
existing drain, Leave the straight pipe coming down from the drain. You
should also now have a straight pipe going through the wall into the main
exit drain which is now disconnected from the sink drain. Put as many bricks
on the floor as you need to raise a 5-Gallon bucket up to a point where the
pipe coming out of the wall meets the wall of the bucket at about 6 inches
down from the top of the bucket. Mark the center of the point where the main
drain pipe hits the bucket, then drill a hole in the bucket (about 1 1/2 inch
hole) . Then remove the main drain pipe from the screw on connection it has
as it enters the wall and put it into the bucket. If you have a nylon washer
(the type that come with these plumbing assemblies) use it on the outside of
the pipe as it enters the bucket. Now put the bucket under the pipe from the
sink drain and reattach the main drain pipe. Viola! You have a sink trap. To
empty just unscrew the pipe going into the main drain at the wall and empty.
For what it's worth, attached is my little drawing of this trap. Done in
"Paint Brush". Good Luck.
Catherine Jarosz on mon 27 dec 99
sink trap instructions is in an old old CM issue ... I will look for
it for ya and hope that it printed off the date and month ... I
photocopied the instructions long long ago and put it goodness knows where
:o/ I dont have the issue it was in or the capability to fax or photocopy
the directions ... if you have a library where they have the CM issues
bonded by yr its really easy to find just go back to the early early
issues and check the index page for the yr .... I know I got this in the
UNCA library and one of the people on this list actually works there :o)
Jay could you maybe look thru ??? any how the fastest way to find it is
to have someone go thru the old issues if you dont have access to old CM
... I'll continue my search here and hopefully can get the exact issue it
was in for you ... if worse comes to worse and now one can fax or scan
you the copy I will get my copy ( if I can find it) xeroxed and snail mail
it to you ... cat81257@aol.com
C. A. Sanger on tue 28 dec 99
Check out the trap in CM, December 1978, page 33. We added to the mesh
screen, to keep it from "flopping." Sandwiched the mesh between a piece
of plastic needlepoint canvas and a paper plate holder made of plastic
concentric circles. Hardest part is getting the exit hole in the right
spot, so the water flows out fast enough. We got it right on the second
5 gallon bucket. Good luck!
C. A. Sanger
ShardRock Clay Studio
Kansas, USA
www.ikansas.com/~chuck/
Tom Wirt on wed 29 dec 99
OK Tony.......and this one's portable, yep, the whole sink and trap roll
anywhere, if you want to get rid of that clumsy old sink.
Get two of the basement wash tubs of the same size. Make a bottom frame of
2x6's laid flat with a lap joint on the corners. Size it so the bottom of
the sink rests nicely on the frame. Now make the same frame but of 2x4's so
the other sink will fit down in the center. Cut some 2x4's to make "L"
shaped legs (4 of them) and of a length so the top sink is suspended above
the bottom one.
adapt a faucet (we use one of those bar types to get extra height) so that
hose fitting can be screwed on. Adapt you water supply pipes so the other
end of the hose goes there.
Now, do the straight down pipe from the drain of the top sink into the
bottom one. And punch a whole in the bottom one to affix a large size piece
of clear plastic tube. that can go through the wall and into a dry well
outside (wrapped with heater cable it it's going to be cold out (below 15
degF). Or tap into the wall drain with a length of appropriate tube.
If the water and drain pipes are long enough, you can fit the whole assembly
with casters and be able to move around. The top sink is not fixed so when
you need to clean the trap, you just lift it up and set it on the top frame
and then scoop out the bottom one. Takes just a few minutes if you can
stifle the gag response. But Mel says his glazes don't stink.
Happy New Year to both you and Sheila...
Tom Wirt
----- Original Message -----
From: clennell
To:
Sent: Saturday, December 25, 1999 5:05 PM
Subject: Sink trap
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> i know someone on Clayart has plans for one. I searched the archives but
> can't seem to locate it. If someone can help me I'd appreciate it. I have
> to fix our sink. It's the first thing in my job jar for Y2.
> thanks a bunch.
> Cheers,
> Tony
>
> Tony and Sheila Clennell
> Sour Cherry Pottery
> 4545 King St.
> Beamsville, On. L0R 1B1
>
> http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
> e-mail:clennell@bestnet.org
> 905-563-9382
> fax 905-563-9383
>
SBRANFPOTS@aol.com on thu 30 dec 99
Folks,
Jonanthan Kaplan's exquisite plans for a sink trap appear in my book "The
Potters Professional Handbook" which is of course available from me at The
Potters Shop or from your local bookseller or pottery supplier!
Steven Branfman
The Potters Shop
Murray & Bacia Edelman on fri 18 feb 00
Our sink trap specialist is Renaissance-man, Jonathan Kaplan. If he
doesn't answer you directly, watch for his e-mail. Bacia
At 12:05 PM 12/25/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>i know someone on Clayart has plans for one. I searched the archives but
>can't seem to locate it. If someone can help me I'd appreciate it. I have
>to fix our sink. It's the first thing in my job jar for Y2.
>thanks a bunch.
>Cheers,
>Tony
>
>Tony and Sheila Clennell
>Sour Cherry Pottery
>4545 King St.
>Beamsville, On. L0R 1B1
>
>http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
>e-mail:clennell@bestnet.org
> 905-563-9382
> fax 905-563-9383
>
Bacia Edelman Madison, Wisconsin
http://www.mypots.com/bacia.htm
Cristina Gassier on sat 19 feb 00
The article in CM that was referred to is "An Inexpensive Studio Sink Trap"
by Ric Swenson. It appeared in December '78 on page 33. I have a copy if
anyone needs it faxed/snail-mailed to them. Just e-mail me direct at
CRGassier@aol.com. Tina
Badlands Pottery on thu 24 feb 00
You can order a copy of the sink trap article from the CM website, but it
will cost you $8. I haven't ordered one myself---seems rather pricey, but
the info. is there in case anyone is interested.
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