MarileeSch@aol.com on mon 29 apr 96
Please excuse me for asking for this information, when I know it has been
given recently. I wish I had paid closer attention, but I thought I might be
able to get it from the archives, alas.
I need to build a spray booth in my basement workshop, can no longer wait on
the wind and the rain. I had printed out a post from Vince Pitelka about a
small spray booth with a 1/4 hp fan. (Thank you.) I asked a local carpenter
to help, but, because he has an elaborate exhaust system in his shop, he hit
me with all these questions about cubic feet per minute of air, where would
it come from, all the air in my house would be replaced in 5 minutes, I need
static pressure, whatever that is, a big fan outside with ducts all over the
place... I'm not a techie, I just wanted a hole in the wall with a fan in
it... I get flustered and don't know how to answer when I'm asked for FACTS.
Could someone please, maybe, e-mail me with some specifics about fans and, I
guess, air intakes or something so I can get back to REALITY?
I really appreciate all the help that's given here on Clayart.
Yours,
Marilee Schumann
Chestertown, MD
JODO96 on wed 21 jan 98
I am interested in a Spray Booth that does not cost an arm and a leg. I have
followed some of the discussions on building a booth but don't feel that I
want to take those chances. I plan to use my booth outside mostly but could
move it inside occasionally. I have been considering the Sugar Creek Booth
advertised in Axner which runs about $255 or the next modle up at another
$100. The first one exhausts at 400CFM and the second at 700CFM. Do any of
you folks have any experience with either of these booths or suggestions on a
fairly affordable way to spray glazes, considering I plan to spray most of the
time outside. thanks .
Mark Sweany on thu 22 jan 98
If you spray outside, you don't need a booth. At least not for
safety. You might need something to keep the wind off of your
work. I do all my spraying outside, now, because I don't have a
booth and we are not zoned to put one in.
I don't have any experience with the boothes you mentioned, but
the experiences with spraying in general say get the one that
moves the most air.
----
Mark Sweany
m_pswean@primenet.com
In sunny Phoenix, Arizona
JODO96 wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am interested in a Spray Booth that does not cost an arm and a leg. I have
> followed some of the discussions on building a booth but don't feel that I
> want to take those chances. I plan to use my booth outside mostly but could
> move it inside occasionally. I have been considering the Sugar Creek Booth
> advertised in Axner which runs about $255 or the next modle up at another
> $100. The first one exhausts at 400CFM and the second at 700CFM. Do any of
> you folks have any experience with either of these booths or suggestions on a
> fairly affordable way to spray glazes, considering I plan to spray most of the
> time outside. thanks .
GURUSHAKTI on thu 22 jan 98
You may want to check with some of the companies which sell used ceramic
equipement - like Pacific Ceramic. They even have a fairly current list of
what's available on their web site. There is another company as well - can't
remember the name off hand. Just go to one of the search engine and type in
used ceramic equipment and it will call it up.
My commercially made spray booth is basically a metal box with an exhaust fan
and a filter. I think you'd be fine with the plans offered by some of the
clayart members but if that's not the way you want to go, and you're on a
tight budget, then you may want to consider buying a used one from one of the
ceramic equipment places.
Good luck!
June
John Hesselberth on thu 22 jan 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am interested in a Spray Booth that does not cost an arm and a leg. I
>have
>followed some of the discussions on building a booth but don't feel that I
>want to take those chances. I plan to use my booth outside mostly but could
>move it inside occasionally. I have been considering the Sugar Creek Booth
>advertised in Axner which runs about $255 or the next modle up at another
>$100. The first one exhausts at 400CFM and the second at 700CFM. Do
>any of
>you folks have any experience with either of these booths or suggestions on a
>fairly affordable way to spray glazes, considering I plan to spray most of
>the
>time outside. thanks .
I have one of the Sugar Creek booths from Axner. It seems to work fine.
Simple coated fiberglass construction and is easy to wipe clean. What
you never know, though, unless you have sophisticated measuring equipment
is whether it really provides enough air velocity to keep the spray
particles away from you. I always wear a mask when I'm spraying. It
does seem to do a good enough job that I don't find glaze dust on
surrounding pieces of equipment.
John Hesselberth
Frog Pond Pottery
Pocopson, PA USA
EMail: john@frogpondpottery.com
visit my web site at http://www.frogpondpottery.com
Jonathan Kaplan on fri 23 jan 98
I purchased a Paasche booth in 1991, and while I do agree that this brand
is indeed pricy, they are the Cadillac of the industry.
The booth is free standing, has a 220V motor with a 12" dia inline exhaust
fan that exhausts everything that gets near it. The booth has a 30" opening
that allows for most size work that we produce. It has provided me with
years of trouble free operation and a clean sparying environment. We
puchase rolls of filter material from Graingers and installed a series of
clips to ease of installation. We exhaust to the roof of our building.
A few years ago, my colleague Bill Campbell published a series of plans in
CM for a wet booth, eg a booth with both an air exhaust and a recirculating
waterfall curtain that is very effective in trapping overspray. I have seen
this booth and it is a fine piece of work.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign/
http://www.ceramicsoftware.com/education/clay/kaplan1.htm
jonathan@csn.net
Ceramic Design Group Ltd./Production Services Voice:
970-879-9139 POB 775112
FAXmodem: same
Steamboat Springs, Colorado 80477, USA CALL before faxing
Plant Location: 30800 Moffat Avenue #13 Steamboat Springs Co 80487
(please use this address for all UPS, courier, and common carrier
shipments)
Cheryl L Litman on fri 23 jan 98
I'm wondering if commercial spray booths for industry would be cheaper?
Never checked. An art council got an old chemical hood from a
pharmaceutical company who closed down.
Cheryl Litman
Somerset, NJ
email: cheryllitman@juno.com
On Thu, 22 Jan 1998 07:33:58 EST GURUSHAKTI writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>You may want to check with some of the companies which sell used
>ceramic
>equipement - like Pacific Ceramic. They even have a fairly current
>list of
>what's available on their web site. There is another company as well -
>can't
>remember the name off hand. Just go to one of the search engine and
>type in
>used ceramic equipment and it will call it up.
>My commercially made spray booth is basically a metal box with an
>exhaust fan
>and a filter. I think you'd be fine with the plans offered by some of
>the
>clayart members but if that's not the way you want to go, and you're
>on a
>tight budget, then you may want to consider buying a used one from one
>of the
>ceramic equipment places.
>
>Good luck!
>June
>
Don Jones on fri 23 jan 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>I am interested in a Spray Booth that does not cost an arm and a leg. I
>>have
>>followed some of the discussions on building a booth but don't feel that I
>>want to take those chances. I plan to use my booth outside mostly but could
>>move it inside occasionally. I have been considering the Sugar Creek Booth
>>advertised in Axner which runs about $255 or the next modle up at another
>>$100. The first one exhausts at 400CFM and the second at 700CFM. Do
>>any of
>>you folks have any experience with either of these booths or suggestions on a
>>fairly affordable way to spray glazes, considering I plan to spray most of
>>the
>>time outside. thanks .
>I have one of the Sugar Creek booths from Axner. It seems to work fine.
>Simple coated fiberglass construction and is easy to wipe clean. What
>you never know, though, unless you have sophisticated measuring equipment
>is whether it really provides enough air velocity to keep the spray
>particles away from you. I always wear a mask when I'm spraying. It
>does seem to do a good enough job that I don't find glaze dust on
>surrounding pieces of equipment.
I have one of the Sugar Creek ones too. Ilike the nature of the booth plus
the stand but I decided to remove the wimpy fan and put it at the window
and suck the air out that way. I intend to get a stronger fan and some
better venting too.
Don Jones
claysky@highfiber.com
:-) implied in all messages and replies
http://highfiber.com/~claysky
Richard Aerni on sat 24 jan 98
> >>I am interested in a Spray Booth that does not cost an arm and a leg. I
> >>have
> >>followed some of the discussions on building a booth but don't feel that I
> >>want to take those chances. I plan to use my booth outside mostly but could
> >>move it inside occasionally.
Not to butt in too hard and take you in a direction you don't want to go,
but since David Hendley et al put forth the rationale for building one's
own kiln so ably, I would like to advise you to put together your own
spray booth. It is really not so hard as you might think, and if you
don't have to worry about the EPA coming down on you, and you're able to
easily put the overspray into the outdoors, you might want to give it a
try.
Basically, I just took an old potter's wheel,and built with 2 x 4s a box
from the floor up, with the bottom of the box resting just below the
wheel head. I left an inside dimension to the booth (above the wheel
head) of three feet wide, three feet deep, and four feet high (36 cubic
feet, as I make and spray some pretty large pieces). I enclosed the
sides with drywall, to which I stapled construction plastic, slid two
boards above the wheel table but below the wheel head to seal the bottom,
and drywalled the top, hanging a flourescent light fixture to give it all
light. I obtained, for free from a heating contractor, an old furnace
squirrel cage blower which I mounted on the side of the booth, cutting a
hole in the back side of the booth for the spray to exit. I sealed off
the outside edge of the blower so that it suctioned only from the spray
booth, and then built an exit flue to the outside of my barn with
masonite and duct tape. The fan draws enough air that my booth gets a
total recharge of fresh air about every two seconds. If necessary, I
temporarily screw in baffle boards to block in the front spray end to
increase suction. I built this booth for under $50 in less than a day,
11 years ago, and it has taken me through over 25,000 cubic feet of
sprayed pots since then, without any maintainance or tweaking.
If you're inclined to try it, you can build it yourself, save the money
you would have spent on the commercial booth and use it to lay in a case
or two of good wine.
Regards,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
Richard Aerni on sat 23 may 98
To whomever was interested in my earlier posting about building a cheap
but effective spraybooth--this was the posting.
Hope it helps,
Richard Aerni
>
> > >>I am interested in a Spray Booth that does not cost an arm and a leg. I
> > >>have
> > >>followed some of the discussions on building a booth but don't feel that I
> > >>want to take those chances. I plan to use my booth outside mostly but cou
> > >>move it inside occasionally.
>
> Not to butt in too hard and take you in a direction you don't want to go,
> but since David Hendley et al put forth the rationale for building one's
> own kiln so ably, I would like to advise you to put together your own
> spray booth. It is really not so hard as you might think, and if you
> don't have to worry about the EPA coming down on you, and you're able to
> easily put the overspray into the outdoors, you might want to give it a
> try.
>
> Basically, I just took an old potter's wheel,and built with 2 x 4s a box
> from the floor up, with the bottom of the box resting just below the
> wheel head. I left an inside dimension to the booth (above the wheel
> head) of three feet wide, three feet deep, and four feet high (36 cubic
> feet, as I make and spray some pretty large pieces). I enclosed the
> sides with drywall, to which I stapled construction plastic, slid two
> boards above the wheel table but below the wheel head to seal the bottom,
> and drywalled the top, hanging a flourescent light fixture to give it all
> light. I obtained, for free from a heating contractor, an old furnace
> squirrel cage blower which I mounted on the side of the booth, cutting a
> hole in the back side of the booth for the spray to exit. I sealed off
> the outside edge of the blower so that it suctioned only from the spray
> booth, and then built an exit flue to the outside of my barn with
> masonite and duct tape. The fan draws enough air that my booth gets a
> total recharge of fresh air about every two seconds. If necessary, I
> temporarily screw in baffle boards to block in the front spray end to
> increase suction. I built this booth for under $50 in less than a day,
> 11 years ago, and it has taken me through over 25,000 cubic feet of
> sprayed pots since then, without any maintainance or tweaking.
>
> If you're inclined to try it, you can build it yourself, save the money
> you would have spent on the commercial booth and use it to lay in a case
> or two of good wine.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Aerni
> Bloomfield, NY
Andrew B. Gardner on tue 5 jan 99
Hi there friends
We're working up at the Craft Students' League in New York and were given
the gift of an Alpine spray booth. But...Has anyone any suggestions on how
to make this spray booth actually draw spray out of the sprayers face!!!???
It seems the little squirrel cage fan and small duct work just isn't up to
the task. Really seems to be a very poorly engineered and constructed
piece of equipment. No engineered for high volumn, low pressure movement of
air. Not even porcelinized metal housing, resulting in scratched paint and
rusting metal underneath. You place a 2" x 16" x 20" airconditioning filter
over an opening that is barely 9" in diameter and then wonder why it gets
clogged so quickly. In fact, it doesn't draw any better without the
filters!!!
And if no one has any advice on how to fix, perhaps someone has suggestions
on making or getting a spray booth that does work?
Thanks,
Andy (abg@epix.net)
Craig Fulladosa on tue 5 jan 99
Andy,
I know what you mean. I bought one for the school i used to teach at and
used it for a few years. I thought one i had built my self out of plywood was
as good or better using a big box fan from a yard sale. If you can build one
out of sheet metal that would be better and use a larger filter and larger fan.
I don't think it would be too difficult to improve on the design. Good luck.
Craig,
the Clayman
http://home.earthlink.net/~craigfull/
Andrew B. Gardner wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi there friends
>
> We're working up at the Craft Students' League in New York and were given
> the gift of an Alpine spray booth. But...Has anyone any suggestions on how
> to make this spray booth actually draw spray out of the sprayers face!!!???
> It seems the little squirrel cage fan and small duct work just isn't up to
> the task. Really seems to be a very poorly engineered and constructed
> piece of equipment. No engineered for high volumn, low pressure movement of
> air. Not even porcelinized metal housing, resulting in scratched paint and
> rusting metal underneath. You place a 2" x 16" x 20" airconditioning filter
> over an opening that is barely 9" in diameter and then wonder why it gets
> clogged so quickly. In fact, it doesn't draw any better without the
> filters!!!
>
> And if no one has any advice on how to fix, perhaps someone has suggestions
> on making or getting a spray booth that does work?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy (abg@epix.net)
Craig Martell on fri 8 jan 99
Hi:
There was a question about spray booths and booths built by potters.
I made a pretty OK spray booth with plywood that I covered with white
formica, both inside and out. I put a piece of clear eighth inch plexiglass
over the top so I would have plenty of light while working. The booth sits
on a large fiberglass tray that has a drain that goes to a bucket under the
whole shebang. The formica makes cleanup very easy and it hasn't shown any
deterioration from glaze stuff.
I bought a 10 inch fan that is moisture resistant from Grainger and it is
mounted in the upper rear of the booth and goes through the wall to the
outside. There is an exterior shutter system that keeps the weather out
when the fan isn't in use. It came with the fan. I have a perfect circle
cut in the booth for the exit, that will accept galvanized round glaze
screens and I use a 100 or 200 mesh screen to filter the air. Works very
well and I never have overspray come out into the shop.
I think the whole project ran about 150 bucks including the fan and wiring.
It's been cooking along for over 10 years now and it'll probably be working
when I'm 6 by 6 in the dirt! Sorry, didn't mean to get morbid.
Craig Martell in Oregon
Linda Blossom on sat 9 jan 99
I thought a comparison of Craig Martell's home made booth with a fiberglass
commercial booth would be fun. I bought the sugar creek brand from Axner.
I'll use CAPITALS and the regular type is Craig's from his post:
>I made a pretty OK spray booth with plywood that I covered with white
>formica, both inside and out. I put a piece of clear eighth inch
plexiglass
>over the top so I would have plenty of light while working. THE SUGAR
CREEK BOOTH IS ALL FIBERGLASS SO YOU HAVE TO SUPPLY LIGHT. I PUT A LAMP
WITH A CLAMP ON THE FRONT EDGE. USUALLY IT STAYS.
>on a large fiberglass tray that has a drain that goes to a bucket under the
>whole shebang. The formica makes cleanup very easy and it hasn't shown any
>deterioration from glaze stuff.
THE DRAIN SOUNDS GREAT - NO SUCH THING ON MINE. OF COURSE THE FIBERGLASS
HAS NOT DETERIORATED EITHER.
>
>I bought a 10 inch fan that is moisture resistant from Grainger and it is
>mounted in the upper rear of the booth and goes through the wall to the
>outside. There is an exterior shutter system that keeps the weather out
>when the fan isn't in use. It came with the fan.
THE SUGAR CREEK DOES NOT EVEN COME WITH THE EXHAUST PIPE AND CERTAINLY NO
SHUTTER SYSTEM. THEY ARE MADE IN THE NORTH BUT I GUESS THEY THINK ALL
POTTERS LIVE IN THE SOUTH. I PUT A PIECE OF 3/4" FOAMBOARD IN THE CHANNELS
THAT HOLD THE FILTERS TO KEEP THE COLD OUT. HOWEVER THE MOTOR IS POWERFUL,
WHEN I TURN IT ON, IT SUCKS THE SMOKE OUT OF THE WOODSTOVE.
I have a perfect circle
>cut in the booth for the exit, that will accept galvanized round glaze
>screens and I use a 100 or 200 mesh screen to filter the air. Works very
>well and I never have overspray come out into the shop.
I HAVE TO BUY FURNACE FILTERS THAT GET COVERED VERY QUICKLY AND NEED
REPLACING .
>
>I think the whole project ran about 150 bucks including the fan and wiring.
>It's been cooking along for over 10 years now and it'll probably be working
>when I'm 6 by 6 in the dirt! Sorry, didn't mean to get morbid.
MINE COST ABOUT 500 BUCKS AND WHEN I TURN IT ON I HAVE TO REACH WAY OVER THE
TOP BECAUSE THE MOTOR IS MOUNTED AT THE TOP BACK AND THE WIRE FROM IT HAS
THE ON/OFF SWITCH IN IT. HOWEVER, THE SWITCH WAS PLACED TOO CLOSE TO THE
MOTOR AND IS ALMOST UNREACHABLE. I ALSO HAD TO ACCEPT THE SIZE THAT WAS
AVAILABLE AND IT IS ALWAYS 1/2" TOO SHORT FOR A PEDESTAL.
>
THANK YOU CRAIG MARTELL FOR YOUR ORIGINAL TEXT.
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd
Ithaca, NY 14850
607-539-7912
blossom@twcny.rr.com
www.artscape.com
>
Tom Clarke on sat 27 mar 99
I'm building a spray booth. I need to decide on the placement of the booth
in relation to the fan. Is it better for the top of the booth to be as
close as possible to the top of the fan housing? Any suggestions for what
material to place in front of the furnace filter covering the fan (I was
going to prop a sheet of glass on an angle to capture some of the glaze)?
Looking forward to glazing. Rita , Brooke Valley
Randall Moody on tue 30 mar 99
Here at SIUC our spray booth has a sheet metal buffer wall that sits about 6
inches all round from the walls of the booth. It is perpendicular to the
spray and does a good job. The fan we are using is an old industrial type
fan so it has a great deal of power and it is positioned at the top of the
booth.
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm building a spray booth. I need to decide on the placement of the booth
> in relation to the fan. Is it better for the top of the booth to be as
> close as possible to the top of the fan housing? Any suggestions for what
> material to place in front of the furnace filter covering the fan (I was
> going to prop a sheet of glass on an angle to capture some of the glaze)?
> Looking forward to glazing. Rita , Brooke Valley
michael wendt on mon 2 oct 00
I would add that your best work position is down flow if possible. My =
booth is cross flow and that works too. Much poorer is upflow or with =
your back to the air flow as this creates eddy currents that bring the =
spray up into your face at times. Even with a mask, why saturate =
yourself with glaze?
Michael Wendt wendtpot@lewiston.com
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