Martha Muzychka on tue 18 mar 97
Hello all,
A kind poster some months ago gave me information about spraying glazes
for a colleague. I would like to ask now what kind of respirator or mask
would you recommend. Thanks bunches.
Martha in Newfoundland
__________________________________
Calvin: I've been thinking, Hobbes.
Hobbes: On a weekend?
Calvin: Well, it wasn't on purpose.
mailto:muzychka@plato.ucs.mun.ca
Kenneth D Westfall on wed 19 mar 97
Martha
I like North's half mask respirators that use cartridges which are
replaceable. Though if you have sensitive eyes you may want to check out
the full mask respirator. This type uses a cartridge which come in many
different filtering possibilities. I use the HEPA filter/cartridge when
I spray glazes and mix clay. You can also get filter/cartridge for
ammonia, organic vapor, acid, paint and pesticides. So it will sever you
where ever you need a respirator. They are availably from W.W. Grainger
which is a large catalog industrial equipment suppler located in most
large industrial cites. In 15 year I have had to replace the elastic
head straps and a air valve that I broke. You can reach them in Canada
by calling 1-800-633-8487 or if your headed south to the U.S.A there is
one in Portland Maine phone 207-797-7693.
Hope this is of some help.
Kenneth Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
potter-ken@juno.com
corky on thu 9 oct 97
We are attempting to create evenly applied solid colour glaze surfaces
without the attendant runs and drips so often accompanied with dipping.
Glaze spraying seems to be the obvious choice. Our first attempts have been
promising but could stand some improvement. We would like to hear from
those who "have been there, done that". Any pointers as to applying the
glaze without the dry spray surface looking peeble like and how to get a
reasonably thick layer without having to spray forever would be
appreciated. We are using a rather viscous frit based glaze fired to cone
04 which gives beautifull colour and glass when melted. Any and all
suggestions, much appreciated.
Tony Hermsen
Grenada West Indies
The Land of Perpetual Summer
Robert Speirs, M.D. 12 4450 on fri 10 oct 97
Dear Tony,
I've heard Grenada is one of the world's best places to snorkel and
scuba! I'd love to go there sometime.
As for spraying glazes, I have done it for quite a while on my forms
that are too large to dip in my containers. The only way I know I have
enough on the pot is when it looks like pebbles! I don't know how to
cut the time short when spraying unless you have a powerful compressor
and sprayer that puts out a lot of glaze.
Hang in there!
Laura in Oregon
Nikom Chimnok on fri 10 oct 97
I have done quite a bit of spraying of big pots with ash glazes. One
helpful thing to do is lower the pressure--buy an in-line pressure
regulator so that you can use a lower pressure, and thus make the beads
of spray bounce less. This lessens the pebbling effect. It also makes
for a more even coating, because the pressure switches on compressors
have a wide differential between cut-in and cut-out.
As to thickness, that has to do with the spray head you use. An air
brush has a tiny little hole, and it takes a long time to build up a
thick layer. At the other end of the spectrum you can buy a head for
spraying concrete, which is more than you need. I have a head for
spraying architectural wall finishes, and it puts out so much material
that I have used it to make pots out of paperclay slip, sprayed into
jigger molds. There are many stages inbetween the largest and the
smallest.
Good luck,
Nikom in sunny, bankrupt Thailand
corky wrote:
----------------------------Originalmessage----------------------------
> We are attempting to create evenly applied solid colour glaze surfaces
> without the attendant runs and drips so often accompanied with dipping.
> Glaze spraying seems to be the obvious choice. Our first attempts have been
> promising but could stand some improvement. We would like to hear from
> those who "have been there, done that". Any pointers as to applying the
> glaze without the dry spray surface looking peeble like and how to get a
> reasonably thick layer without having to spray forever would be
> appreciated. We are using a rather viscous frit based glaze fired to cone
> 04 which gives beautifull colour and glass when melted. Any and all
> suggestions, much appreciated.
>
> Tony Hermsen
> Grenada West Indies
> The Land of Perpetual Summer
corky on sat 11 oct 97
Hi Kurt,
We are using a Critter sprayer with detachable one quart bottles. We have
been experimenting with air pressure between 20 - 40 psi obtained from a
large shop compressor that we also use to run a RAM press. We supply
dinnerware to many of the hotels in the Caribbean and hence our interest in
spray glazing. However, our four wheel throwers also produce large
terra-cotta (unglazed) gardenware as well as glazed functional ware. Our
main concern is to be able to apply solid colour in a consistent manner to
the restaurant dinnerware. To this end, we are in the process of building a
double spray booth with exhaust venting.
Our main problem is a pebble like build up off the dry glaze surface when
spraying. I have just read Dan Saultman's post (thank you Dan) and we are
about to try his suggestion. Will let you know what the results are. In the
mean time, if you are going to try spraying. I suggest that you begin by
using your existing glazes, a good mask and a properly ventilated area
where the air flow is away from you and where you can contain the over
spray. I don't think that you will require a huge compressor but it is nice
to have a sprayer with easily changed containers with seperate lids. Beyond
that - Good luck and have fun.
Tony Hermsen
Potting on the Spice Island of Grenada
David Hewitt on sat 11 oct 97
Tony,
I routinely spray a proportion of the items that I make. My experience
may, therefore, be of some interest to you, but I qualify this in that
it relates only to the types of items that I make and obviously the
glazes that I use.
The most common sequence of spraying a bowl is to spray on two coats,
inside and out, essentially one after the other, just pausing long
enough for the surface to dry. I then put the pieces on one side for say
half an hour. This varies according to the temperature and humidity. May
be you would not need to leave it so long. I then spray on one further
full coat and one further very quick coat. The pot usually can't absorb
any more moisture. The amount that it can take up varies on the
thickness
of the item. I spray a lot on thin porcelain.
With vases I would pour on the inside first and leave for the same half
hour before spraying the outside. I will most likely get less take up
(thickness) around the top where it is thinner, and hence a difference
in final colour. This works to my advantage as I like the difference. I
elaborate on this in order to emphasise that I need to have a well
remembered routine for each type of pot and glaze in order to get the
result I want and to get it reasonably consistently.
David
In message , corky writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>We are attempting to create evenly applied solid colour glaze surfaces
>without the attendant runs and drips so often accompanied with dipping.
>Glaze spraying seems to be the obvious choice. Our first attempts have been
>promising but could stand some improvement. We would like to hear from
>those who "have been there, done that". Any pointers as to applying the
>glaze without the dry spray surface looking peeble like and how to get a
>reasonably thick layer without having to spray forever would be
>appreciated. We are using a rather viscous frit based glaze fired to cone
>04 which gives beautifull colour and glass when melted. Any and all
>suggestions, much appreciated.
>
>Tony Hermsen
>Grenada West Indies
>The Land of Perpetual Summer
>
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery ,
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP6 1DQ, UK. Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
URL http://digitalfire.com/education/people/hewitt.htm
Lisa P Skeen on wed 3 dec 97
Hey y'all. Is anybody spraying floating blue? I just tried spraying for
the first time yesterday; will fire the pieces starting tomorrow.
Wondering how the FB does when sprayed on.
Lisa Skeen, Living Tree Pottery and Soaps
http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
Roeder on fri 5 dec 97
Lisa,
Yes, I've sprayed floating blue, and I think it works best for me when
done that way. The only thing is, you will get a great deal of variety
in color depending on thickness of glaze application.
This can work w/ you or against you. I've had some very blotchy looking
glaze jobs, where I had big brown spots where the glaze was too thin and
then blue where thick. I didn't apply it evenly (so hard to do when
spraying) so the thing almost looked polka-dotty.
Spray heavily, and even heavier to accent areas, like the shoulder. If
you spray an iron red glaze, like Randy's red, you'll get some reddish
purple tones. If you highlight w/ a glaze containing rutile, you'll get
some baby blue opalescence. Can be very nice.
Candice Roeder
in michigan
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hey y'all. Is anybody spraying floating blue? I just tried spraying for
> the first time yesterday; will fire the pieces starting tomorrow.
> Wondering how the FB does when sprayed on.
>
> Lisa Skeen, Living Tree Pottery and Soaps
> http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
Fabienne Cassman on sat 9 oct 99
Hello Everyone,
yesterday, I was told to my surprise that the cheap hand held plastic
garden sprayer in my garage, the type you pump up using elbow grease to
create pressure, can be use to apply glazes and won't clog. Before I get
all excited, I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this
"tool." If not, I guess it will be interesting to try it out :)
Cheers,
--
Faye http://clay.justnet.com
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Ron Roy on sat 9 oct 99
I don't know about glazes but I use one for spraying wash on my shelves -
gives a good "pebble" effect.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hello Everyone,
>
>yesterday, I was told to my surprise that the cheap hand held plastic
>garden sprayer in my garage, the type you pump up using elbow grease to
>create pressure, can be use to apply glazes and won't clog. Before I get
>all excited, I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this
>"tool." If not, I guess it will be interesting to try it out :)
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
the Gallaghers on sun 10 oct 99
That type of pump sprayer is used quite often for spraying paint and fire
proofing solution onto theatrical backdrops, so it would make sense that a
glaze could be sprayed also with one. Just test to see how thin the glaze
must be to get it to spray without clogging.
Michelle
In Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: Fabienne Cassman
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 8:19 PM
Subject: Spraying Glazes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hello Everyone,
yesterday, I was told to my surprise that the cheap hand held plastic
garden sprayer in my garage, the type you pump up using elbow grease to
create pressure, can be use to apply glazes and won't clog. Before I get
all excited, I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this
"tool." If not, I guess it will be interesting to try it out :)
Cheers,
--
Faye http://clay.justnet.com
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Pottery by Dai on sun 10 oct 99
Hi, Faye - yes, you can use those garden sprayers for spraying glazes, but
I've found that they tend to spit and spatter sometimes. And you have to
keep shaking them to keep the glaze from settling. But they do give a nice
pebbly coat of glaze. I used mine mainly to spray a coat of one colour over
a dipped coat of base colour; in this case, it wasn't hugely important that
I get a perfectly even coat of the sprayed glaze. It's hard to glaze the
undersides of things, though, because if you hold the sprayer upside-down,
you don't get any glaze, only air. So you have to turn the piece
upside-down, spray the underside first, then right-side up and spray the
topside. As I don't have a spray booth, I did this outside---I had a very
interestingly-patterned patio till it rained!
Try it!
Dai in Kelowna, B.C.
potterybydai@home.com
Anji Henderson on mon 11 oct 99
I am a little confused... What garden sprayer??? The
kind that you pump insecticide's on to the plants????
Anji
--- Pottery by Dai wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Hi, Faye - yes, you can use those garden sprayers
> for spraying glazes, but
> I've found that they tend to spit and spatter
> sometimes. And you have to
> keep shaking them to keep the glaze from settling.
> But they do give a nice
> pebbly coat of glaze. I used mine mainly to spray a
> coat of one colour over
> a dipped coat of base colour; in this case, it
> wasn't hugely important that
> I get a perfectly even coat of the sprayed glaze.
> It's hard to glaze the
> undersides of things, though, because if you hold
> the sprayer upside-down,
> you don't get any glaze, only air. So you have to
> turn the piece
> upside-down, spray the underside first, then
> right-side up and spray the
> topside. As I don't have a spray booth, I did this
> outside---I had a very
> interestingly-patterned patio till it rained!
> Try it!
> Dai in Kelowna, B.C.
> potterybydai@home.com
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
zahidi neale on mon 11 oct 99
Have used a pump action bug sprayer for years. Not very precise like an
airbrush, but great for large areas and big bands of overlayed glaze. Gets
into nooks and crannies really well. Ash glaze clogs up. Tape black plastic
sheeting or garbage bags up on booth walls and make a well so it runs down
into a collector and you can reuse the glaze that goes on the wall.
Zee in Slidell, LA
-----Original Message-----
From: Fabienne Cassman
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, October 09, 1999 10:19 PM
Subject: Spraying Glazes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hello Everyone,
yesterday, I was told to my surprise that the cheap hand held plastic
garden sprayer in my garage, the type you pump up using elbow grease to
create pressure, can be use to apply glazes and won't clog. Before I get
all excited, I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this
"tool." If not, I guess it will be interesting to try it out :)
Cheers,
--
Faye http://clay.justnet.com
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Jim Brooks on mon 11 oct 99
I have..and do use a plastic hose sprayer for glazes..It works better than
any other i have ever tried to use. I bought mine for $2.79 on sale..and
took it to a leading hardware company.. I asked the plumbing person for
adapters to change it over to air..I think the adapters cost about $1.50..
and .........Instant sprayer.. Try it..the price is right ..and it works....
Dannon Rhudy on mon 11 oct 99
I use one occasionally, for large pieces. Works fine. My students have
gone so far as to get the REALLY cheap ones, small, hold maybe a
quart. It appears to me that they clog a bit more frequently than the
ones with the brass wand. They do not clog often, but it is not true
in my experience that they WON'T clog. And, depending on the glaze,
you may need to thin a bit. If you need great accuracy, they don't
work like an air brush. But they really do a good job on pieces that
are simply large, give an even coat where pouring might not.
regards,
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
At 11:18 PM 10/9/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hello Everyone,
>
>yesterday, I was told to my surprise that the cheap hand held plastic
>garden sprayer in my garage, the type you pump up using elbow grease to
>create pressure, can be use to apply glazes and won't clog. Before I get
>all excited, I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this
>"tool." If not, I guess it will be interesting to try it out :)
>
>Cheers,
>
>
>--
>Faye http://clay.justnet.com
>
> Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
> I can reproduce them exactly.
>
Fabienne Cassman on mon 11 oct 99
Thank you for the info. I wonder what else is under my nose that I don't
realize I can use :)
I'll have to find a spot outside, too. I better hurry with winter all.
Cheers,
Fabienne in Chicagoland
At 12:20 PM 10/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi, Faye - yes, you can use those garden sprayers for spraying glazes, but
>I've found that they tend to spit and spatter sometimes. And you have to
>keep shaking them to keep the glaze from settling. But they do give a nice
>pebbly coat of glaze. I used mine mainly to spray a coat of one colour over
>a dipped coat of base colour; in this case, it wasn't hugely important that
>I get a perfectly even coat of the sprayed glaze. It's hard to glaze the
>undersides of things, though, because if you hold the sprayer upside-down,
>you don't get any glaze, only air. So you have to turn the piece
>upside-down, spray the underside first, then right-side up and spray the
>topside. As I don't have a spray booth, I did this outside---I had a very
>interestingly-patterned patio till it rained!
>Try it!
>Dai in Kelowna, B.C.
>potterybydai@home.com
--
Faye http://clay.justnet.com
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Pottery by Dai on tue 12 oct 99
Hi, Anji - yes, the same kind of sprayer. They come in all sizes, from
little hand-held ones to big ones on wheels. I use the smallest size, which
probably holds a quart or so. The top screws onto the bottom, and has a
rod-with-knob that you pump up and down till you've built up pressure in the
"tank", then you spray. The pressure doesn't last long, so you have to stop
and repump a lot. All the "innards" come apart for thorough cleaning
afterwards, or else the glaze dries inside and it's non-functional. The
size I get is under $10 at Revy.
Dai
------------------------Original message-------------------
>I am a little confused... What garden sprayer??? The
>kind that you pump insecticide's on to the plants????
>Anji
potterybydai@home.com
Jim Brooks on tue 12 oct 99
Anji.. there are a number of "pump-up " garden sprayers that can be
used..However, I use a plain old water hose attachment sprayer.. I just got
some adapters and changed it to use air instead of water.
Fabienne Cassman on tue 12 oct 99
Hello Anji,
yes. At least, that's the one I had in mind. I fished out a link that has
the picture of one:
http://www.sprayer.com/Gardens/proplus.html
Fabienne
At 11:28 AM 10/11/99 -0400, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>I am a little confused... What garden sprayer??? The
>kind that you pump insecticide's on to the plants????
>
>Anji
--
Faye http://clay.justnet.com
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Jean Cochran on tue 12 oct 99
Dear Ron:
I experimented with different spray devices (for spraying glazes) and banged
my head against a brick wall until "biting the bullet" and buying a good spray
gun and 4.5 compressor. I set the air pressure on the compressor at 40. Dip
my pots in one glaze, place them on a kickwheel, kick and spray while the
wheel spins. i.e.: Dip in blue glaze, spray green glaze, = beautiful teal
with a lot of depth that I can't get with just a teal glaze.
Yours for fine crafts,
Jean Wadsworth Cochran
Fox Hollow Pottery, Kentucky
Ron Roy wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I don't know about glazes but I use one for spraying wash on my shelves -
> gives a good "pebble" effect.
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hello Everyone,
> >
> >yesterday, I was told to my surprise that the cheap hand held plastic
> >garden sprayer in my garage, the type you pump up using elbow grease to
> >create pressure, can be use to apply glazes and won't clog. Before I get
> >all excited, I thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this
> >"tool." If not, I guess it will be interesting to try it out :)
>
> Ron Roy
> 93 Pegasus Trail
> Scarborough
> Ontario, Canada
> M1G 3N8
> Evenings 416-439-2621
> Fax 416-438-7849
Ron Roy on wed 13 oct 99
Thanks Jean,
I too use a compressor for spraying Terra Sig - but dip my glazes. I
thought to use the compressor for the shelves but the garden spayer is more
handy and the pebble effect seems to work better on shelves - to prevent
any sticking. I fire cone 10 porcelaine and it wants to stick to shelves.
Best not to use any silica in wash if you are into porcelain.
My wash is:
Alumina Hydrate - 80 (the calcined is probably even better)
Ball Clay - 10 (I use Bell Dark)
EPK - 10
Bentonite - 1
Always wet shelves first - and make sure no dust on them - I just pass em
under a running faucet or spay em good with the garden sprayer.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dear Ron:
>
>I experimented with different spray devices (for spraying glazes) and banged
>my head against a brick wall until "biting the bullet" and buying a good spray
>gun and 4.5 compressor. I set the air pressure on the compressor at 40. Dip
>my pots in one glaze, place them on a kickwheel, kick and spray while the
>wheel spins. i.e.: Dip in blue glaze, spray green glaze, = beautiful teal
>with a lot of depth that I can't get with just a teal glaze.
>
>Yours for fine crafts,
>
>Jean Wadsworth Cochran
>Fox Hollow Pottery, Kentucky
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
Cindy Strnad on sun 6 feb 00
Hi Everybody.
My new glaze gun just arrived. It's a Paasch L-Sprayer, and it looks like a
nice piece of equipment, however the instructions are, well, not all that
instructive. Any tips appreciated.
The instructions say to mix the material to a "slightly lighter consistency
than recommended for ordinary sprayers." Anyone have an approximate
recommended SG to shoot for?
I normally sieve my glazes through an 80 mesh screen, but I do have a finer
screen. I'll find out by experimenting whether the glaze needs the finer
sieve if necessary, but if one of you already knows . . . .
Also, I'm trying to figure out how the glaze gets up that tube and into the
air. No air is introduced into the glaze cup. I'm sure this set-up works, as
Paasche has made quite a few sprayers, but I am curious. I'm guessing the
air from the upper nozzle blows over the lower nozzle and creates a negative
pressure. That's just a wild guess, though. It's no big deal, but would be
nice to know.
Thanks for your help--I appreciate it.
Cindy Strnad
earthenv@gwtc.net
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
Jim Cullen on mon 7 feb 00
Your concept of negative pressure (vacuum) is right on. The glaze is sucked
up into the airstream.
Sorry to say, but I haven't had good luck with the artist-type air brush. I
spray all my glazes and use a Bailey (Critter) gun and a Central Pneumatics
High Volume-Low Pressure 38308 Gravity Fed spray gun with a 1 HP tankless
compressor. I talked to Steven Hill at a workshop and he said the best
solution to spraying is to buy a GOOD spray gun. I've had good luck so far
with my setup and don't really know why I should change. I hope to get to
talk to Steven in Denver.
I have been mixing my glazes to 150-155 S.G. and even thinner. I like thinner
because it clogs less often but, it requires more coats. I'm talking 15 to 20
coats in some cases. I spray on a motorized turntable and place a marker on
the turntable to count revolutions (coats).
Please, be sure to wear a good respirator mask and "fit test" it before
spraying. You should also spray in a booth or outside upwind.
Steven Hill's workshop pre NCECA is on single-firing but since he sprays his
glazes I'm sure he'll discuss spraying to some extent.
Another tip...use Bentonite in your spraying glazes for suspension and
stickability.
Good Luck
KEEP CENTERED and KEEP SPRAYING
Cullen
Naperville, Illinois
Vince Pitelka on mon 7 feb 00
>My new glaze gun just arrived. It's a Paasch L-Sprayer, and it looks like a
>nice piece of equipment, however the instructions are, well, not all that
>instructive. Any tips appreciated.
>Also, I'm trying to figure out how the glaze gets up that tube and into the
>air. No air is introduced into the glaze cup. I'm sure this set-up works, as
>Paasche has made quite a few sprayers, but I am curious. I'm guessing the
>air from the upper nozzle blows over the lower nozzle and creates a negative
>pressure. That's just a wild guess, though. It's no big deal, but would be
>nice to know.
>Cindy Strnad
Cindy -
In my opinion you have purchased one of the best glaze sprayers available.
It is expensive, but it is a beauty and should last you a lifetime. With
all of the external-mix spray-guns, like yours, the "Critter" and the Bailey
spray gun, the air from the air-nozzle passing across the pickup tube
creates a vacuum, drawing glaze up into the air-stream. You can vary the
quality of spray-pattern some by raising and lowering the tip of the pickup
tube. But once you get it where you like it I'd leave it alone. You will
notice that there is small breather hole in the top of the jar lid. It is
essential that this hole be kept open, or the sprayer will quit working.
I have found that adding just a bit of water to glazes of normal consistency
is all that is needed to make them work well in this kind of spray-gun. You
should not need to screen the glaze unless there are big lumps in it. I
recommend getting a fairly fine small-size kitchen strainer, and run the
glaze through that when you pour it in the spray-gun reservoir. If you know
the location of a Dansk factory store, they have great little fine-mesh
stainless-steel kitchen strainers. Just experiment with it and see what
works best for you. If you are doing high-production and really depend on
exact glaze results, then you might want to use a hydrometer to standardize
your glaze density. But do not go by anyone else's SG measurement, because
hydrometers are not accurate at that density. They work pretty well for
reproducing yor results, but if you go by other's SG figures you will have
trouble.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
John Rodgers on mon 7 feb 00
Cindy, you are right about that type sprayer. It does work on "suction" or
pressure differential.
If you look closely at the glaze cup somewhere on the top or where it attaches
you are going to find the tiniest little hole. It may be hard to see. That is
where atmospheric pressure is introcuced into the cup. The air moving through
the sprayer passes over the opening of the end of the tube in the sprayer head
and following Brenoulli's principle the air speeds up and lowers the pressure.
Now that the air at the head end of the tube is at a lower pressure than
atmospheric, and atmospheric pressure is getting down through the tiny little
vent hole, atmospheric pressure pushes the glaze up the tube and out into the
airstream of the glaze head.
If your glaze gun stops putting out glaze, the feed tube may be clooged, but
more than likely it will be that tiny little air hole.
After each use, be sure to dissasemble and flush the gun good with clean water,
then assemble, fill the cup with water and spray for a minute. That will clear
all the ports of glaze.
Here's wishing you good spraying.
John Rodgers
Birminmgham, AL
Cindy Strnad wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Everybody.
>
> My new glaze gun just arrived. It's a Paasch L-Sprayer, and it looks like a
> nice piece of equipment, however the instructions are, well, not all that
> instructive. Any tips appreciated.
>
> The instructions say to mix the material to a "slightly lighter consistency
> than recommended for ordinary sprayers." Anyone have an approximate
> recommended SG to shoot for?
>
> I normally sieve my glazes through an 80 mesh screen, but I do have a finer
> screen. I'll find out by experimenting whether the glaze needs the finer
> sieve if necessary, but if one of you already knows . . . .
>
> Also, I'm trying to figure out how the glaze gets up that tube and into the
> air. No air is introduced into the glaze cup. I'm sure this set-up works, as
> Paasche has made quite a few sprayers, but I am curious. I'm guessing the
> air from the upper nozzle blows over the lower nozzle and creates a negative
> pressure. That's just a wild guess, though. It's no big deal, but would be
> nice to know.
>
> Thanks for your help--I appreciate it.
>
> Cindy Strnad
> earthenv@gwtc.net
> Earthen Vessels Pottery
> RR 1, Box 51
> Custer, SD 57730
Paul Brinkmann on mon 8 may 00
Dear Grace, I have been using my vacuum cleaner to spray my glazes for
years. You need to by a spray bottle made for vacuum cleaners. You simply
insert the hose in the exhaust end of the vacuum. It may be necessary to
dialute the glaze somewhat. Usually I set up outside, place my piece on a
banding wheel, on top of a garbage can, or something similar, and spray
away. Need to give it two or three coats, letting it dry for a few minutes
in between coats so it doesnt run to much. Most of my experience has been
done with majolica base glaze. Try it, I think you;ll like it. From San
Antonio, TX Paul
Dannon Rhudy on mon 8 may 00
At 12:26 AM 5/8/00 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
thinking of watering
>down my glazes and using a garden sprayer. Has anyone tried this and if so,
>did it work? http://www.hotmail.com......
Students here use garden sprayers all the time to spray
glazes on large pieces. Works fine so long as they do
not try to do any detail work. Have to do it outdoors,
though, unless you've a large/good spray booth. Lots
of overspray with these.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
>
Martin Howard on mon 8 may 00
A hand garden sprayer, sold for spraying water on house plants, may work.
One kind worked for me, another just refused, using the same glaze. It
depends on how fine the manufacturer makes the jet.
I would suggest saving up for proper hand sprayers and then making a
removable spray booth over your wheel, designed so that you can save the
unused glaze. Some sponge layer temporarily fixed to the side towards which
you do your spraying works.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
Grace Sheese on mon 8 may 00
I was looking for a way to spray glazes onto my bisque ware without having
to invest in a spray gun and the whole set up. I was thinking of watering
down my glazes and using a garden sprayer. Has anyone tried this and if so,
did it work? Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Grace
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Martin Howard on mon 8 may 00
A hand garden sprayer, sold for spraying water on house plants, may work.
One kind worked for me, another just refused, using the same glaze. It
depends on how fine the manufacturer makes the jet.
I would suggest saving up for proper hand sprayers and then making a
removable spray booth over your wheel, designed so that you can save the
unused glaze. Some sponge layer temporarily fixed to the side towards which
you do your spraying works.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
Dannon Rhudy on mon 8 may 00
At 12:26 AM 5/8/00 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
thinking of watering
>down my glazes and using a garden sprayer. Has anyone tried this and if so,
>did it work? http://www.hotmail.com......
Students here use garden sprayers all the time to spray
glazes on large pieces. Works fine so long as they do
not try to do any detail work. Have to do it outdoors,
though, unless you've a large/good spray booth. Lots
of overspray with these.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
>
Paul Brinkmann on mon 8 may 00
Dear Grace, I have been using my vacuum cleaner to spray my glazes for
years. You need to by a spray bottle made for vacuum cleaners. You simply
insert the hose in the exhaust end of the vacuum. It may be necessary to
dialute the glaze somewhat. Usually I set up outside, place my piece on a
banding wheel, on top of a garbage can, or something similar, and spray
away. Need to give it two or three coats, letting it dry for a few minutes
in between coats so it doesnt run to much. Most of my experience has been
done with majolica base glaze. Try it, I think you;ll like it. From San
Antonio, TX Paul
Grace Sheese on tue 9 may 00
Paul,
I see that we are neighbors. I'm from Bryan, TX. Your idea of using a
vacuum cleaner to spray glazes is very interesting. What do you mean by a
spray bottle for vacuum cleaners and where could I locate one?
Grace
>From: Paul Brinkmann
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: spraying glazes
>Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 16:27:45 EDT
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dear Grace, I have been using my vacuum cleaner to spray my glazes for
>years. You need to by a spray bottle made for vacuum cleaners. You
>simply
>insert the hose in the exhaust end of the vacuum. It may be necessary to
>dialute the glaze somewhat. Usually I set up outside, place my piece on a
>banding wheel, on top of a garbage can, or something similar, and spray
>away. Need to give it two or three coats, letting it dry for a few minutes
>in between coats so it doesnt run to much. Most of my experience has been
>done with majolica base glaze. Try it, I think you;ll like it. From San
>Antonio, TX Paul
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Susan Goldstein on tue 9 may 00
I use sprayes for cars called Preval. However you would have to thin your
glaze to a consistency that might not work.
Susan
Paul Bailey / Janet Moe on sat 16 sep 00
Cindy,
I spray almost all of my glazes using a Pasche HS airbrush with the #5 tip. I don't usually have any problem with clogging. I keep an extra bottle filled with water which I spray through the tip after each pot to keep it clear. When I am
finished for the day I just spray warm water through again and wipe it off.
I do sieve my glazes before I start each glaze session and mix them somewhat thinner than for dipping but not too much. If the glazes are too thin the spray will run too easily. If the glaze is too thick it won't spray easily, just add water
in small increments. If the airbrush clogs it is usually due to lumpy glaze. I also have a glaze sprayer and paint sprayer I use for larger items but I like the control from the airbrush. Good luck!
Janet Moe enjoying the beautiful fall weather on the coast of British Columbia!
Cindy Strnad on sat 16 sep 00
Hi there, everybody.
I'd like to spray glazes with more accuracy than is possible with my =
large sprayer, but when I asked the guy at Mile-Hi whether their smaller =
Paasch air brushes would work with glazes, he said they wouldn't. Is =
this true? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
James Cullen on sat 16 sep 00
Tricky question. Tricky answer.
It all depends.
It really depends on the thickness and materials used in your glazes. I would tend to think that ceramic glazes, no matter how thin would clog up an air brush. I been proven wrong before and we all can learn a thing or two. I would suggest
the Touch-up Spray gun. HarborFreight has one for either $19.95 or $29.95. DeVilbis sells one (it looks identical to the Central Pneumatic for HarborFreight). Their's sells for $169.95. Don't get me wrong, DeVilbis makes good spray guns, but
I wonder if potters need that quality to spray the glaze materials we spray. I'm not sure how much detail you are seeking. The Touch-up gun is still a pretty good spray. I wouldn't recommend it for detail work on a 4" pot, but maybe detail on
the handle of a 12" pitcher. That's how Steven Hill uses his. To add a blush of a second glaze or that nice diagonal sweep from top to bottom.
The tips on air brushes won't take the abuse of the silica and clay materials. Glaze content, the amount of spraying, the line pressure, and the amount of time you want to spend cleaning the brush are all factors to be considered. I've used
an air brush but, I bought a cheapo so I don't have a lot invested (I think it was $11.00 for the brush and two 2 oz bottles). It clogs, and clogs and clogs.
Best of luck and happy spraying.
KEEP CENTERED
Cullen
Chris Clarke on sat 16 sep 00
I use my airbrush mainly to spray colorants. I've had problems with cobalt
oxide clogging it so I'm sure glazes would. What you need is the sprayer
that is a step up from an airbrush but steep down from a regular sprayer.
It a detailer, they use it to paint pin stripes and such on cars.
chris@ccpots
chris clarke
Temecula, CA
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
look again
----- Original Message -----
From: Cindy Strnad
To:
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 5:38 PM
Subject: spraying glazes
Hi there, everybody.
I'd like to spray glazes with more accuracy than is possible with my large
sprayer, but when I asked the guy at Mile-Hi whether their smaller Paasch
air brushes would work with glazes, he said they wouldn't. Is this true? Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
WHew536674@CS.COM on sat 16 sep 00
Cindy,
I have successfully used an air brush (largest orifice available) to spray
under glazes and slips with no problem. Now and then it will clog up a bit,
but running water through it to get the clog out works and then go back to
the under glaze or slip. As for glazes, I haven't tried that and use a spray
gun because the entire surface is all being covered with the glaze anyway
weather there is an air brushed design under it or not. Maybe someone else
out there has used an air brush for glazing, but is seems like a lot of work
to me.
Joyce A.
Mission, TX
Theoblue44@AOL.COM on sun 17 sep 00
I have used air brushes for over ten years and have had a lot of problems
with them clogging and taking a lot of time to unclog them. If you go to
http://www.dixieart.com and then look at the Badger 155 "Anthem" you will
find an airbrush which is very easy to unclog and it rarely gets clogged. I
have sprayed everything but slip and I just have not tried that yet. I think
it will probably spray it also. It cost about $60 for the complete kit and
work just great.
John Crittenden
Oklahoma City
Craig Martell on sun 17 sep 00
Hi:
Try the Paasche #62 spray gun. It doesn't have the overkill range of some
large guns and it will still get the job done quickly. I use two of them
at a time if I am spraying several glazes. They cost about 53 bucks and
are real easy to clean and maintain. Very few parts.
later, Craig Martell in Oregon
Scsclay@AOL.COM on sun 17 sep 00
Hi Cindy,
I have been spraying glazes for years (until recently made 3-D murals),
and have found that success depends a lot on the glaze; consistency, etc.
I thin my glazes with water, up to 1/2, and adjust the number of glaze coats
accordingly. I use the same two airbrushes and tips that I bought in the 70's
(no, clay materials and glazes do not ruin them). I have had best success
using
the needles with the larger openings (H3 or H5). They spray from 1/32 to 1
1/2"
according to the literature. Very small is harder. With some glazes, you just
have to stop occasionally and put the tip in water and spray, to clear up a
clog.
For small areas needing solid coverage, I use the Paasche 3 oz. sprayer with
great success. It is between an airbrush and an airgun, 2-3" spray, and
isn't too
much if you already have a compressor, around $55, I think. Just bought a
second one this year, same quality as the old one thankfully.
Susan Schultz
Stonington, Ct.
Jonathan Kaplan on sun 17 sep 00
Some considerations when spraying glazes.......
The basic is a source of compressed air that is large enough to provide a
constant CFM at a constant pressure. While for most applications a single
stage compressor might be adequate, if you use alot of air in your shop a
double stage compressor is really the only solution. It will provide a
constant supply of air. I would think for light duty useage a small single
stage compressor with a small tank might be adequate for most studio
applications. We have a large vertical tank unit, double stage compressor
with a 5 HP motor. It puts out ejough air to run the RAM press, spray
glazes, purge RAM dies, and run air tools all at the same time.
The air needs to be clean and dry. You should have some sort of evaporative
cooler right after the compressor to chill the air and what ever cleaning
devices you need on the air line at each station such as desicant dryers,
coalescing filters to remove oil, and a filter regulator. While this may be
overkill for most studio potters, in an operation such as ours that uses
alot of compressed air it is a system that works.
There are many types of arrangements of spray guns. We currently use a
Deviliblis gravity feed system that provides superior coverage for
underglazes and glazes regardless of consistency. The spray tips and
nozzles are carbide and do not wear out. We have also used in the past
spray guns with an aluminum container that screws onto the bottom of the
gun. These are called siphon spray guns and are relatively useless in that
they cannot pass the glaze well and the tips are low grade streel and wear
out. For paint they are fine, but not for glazes. Paashe makes a fine small
hand held sprayer for about $50-60 that is a mighty workhorse for glazes
and underglazes. It does tend to introduce alot of air into the mix and
does texture the surface.
An airbrush is a fine tool for detailing and shading but is not really
sufficient for applying glaze. I have used my trusty Paashe for lusters and
some underglaze and colorants only.
There is alot of literature and information available on all this stuff. A
good place to start is with the Graingers catalog.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan, president
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
voice and fax 970 879-9139
jonathan@csn,net
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesigin
Plant Location:
1280 13th Street Unit 13
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
(please use this address for all deliveries via UPS, comman carrier, FEd
Ex, etc.)
Cindy Strnad on sun 17 sep 00
Thanks, Joyce.
I agree an airbrush may be too much work for glazing a whole pot. It's just
that I have some pieces which are highly carved, and I'd like to do various
sections in different glazes. Because of the deeply carved surfaces and
irregular borders, masking tape has been a major hassle.
Of course, I may have to just do it anyway. I was hoping to keep the prices
down, but then people seem willing enough to pay a fair price, so maybe I
shouldn't worry about that.
Chris suggested a "detailer", which she said was slightly larger than an
airbrush. I think I may try that.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
Sharon31 on sun 17 sep 00
There is EZE Spraygun, light in weight easy to control. simple, not an
airbrush, half way.
Ababi
----- Original Message -----
From: Cindy Strnad
To:
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 02:38
Subject: spraying glazes
Hi there, everybody.
I'd like to spray glazes with more accuracy than is possible with my large
sprayer, but when I asked the guy at Mile-Hi whether their smaller Paasch
air brushes would work with glazes, he said they wouldn't. Is this true? Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Cindy Strnad on sun 17 sep 00
Hi everybody--again.
Wow! Thanks for all the great advice on spraying glazes. I do have a larger
Paasch sprayer which I can use for all the areas that aren't too close to
the edge of another color, and I'll be using it for most of the glaze areas.
I've got a cheapie little bitty air brush--don't know anything about it--I
found it in a box in the basement. Anyway, I tried it out this morning after
sieving through a 225 mesh screen, and it never clogged once. Didn't cover a
lot of territory very fast, either, of course.
Anyway, I went to the Dixie site and ordered a Paasch H sprayer with loads
of extra bottles, and a 3 oz. adaptor, and I can't wait for it to arrive.
Thanks again for all the good help, and I'll let you know how it works out.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
vince pitelka on sun 17 sep 00
> Try the Paasche #62 spray gun. It doesn't have the overkill range of some
> large guns and it will still get the job done quickly. I use two of them
> at a time if I am spraying several glazes. They cost about 53 bucks and
> are real easy to clean and maintain. Very few parts.
> later, Craig Martell in Oregon
In my opinion, this is the best glaze spraygun available. We had one around
here when I first got here, but it died from abuse, and we attempted to
replace it with cheaper versions of external-mix sprayguns. The Bailey
works well, but it does not stand up to institutional use at all because of
the cheap plastic jar-lid. The Critter is also good, but the glass
mason-jars don't work in our situation. The Paasche which Craig mentions
above is beautifully made, and well worth it for the price. If you are an
independent studio artist, it will last you the rest of your life.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
John Weber on mon 18 sep 00
Cindy Strnad asked:
"I'd like to spray glazes with more accuracy than is possible with my large
sprayer, but when I asked the guy at Mile-Hi whether their smaller Paasch air
brushes would work with glazes, he said they wouldn't. Is this true? Any
suggestions?"
They work for us fine. You just have to screen the glaze through a 150Mesh
screen and thin it a bit. We only uses it for accent and effects, otherwise
it takes too long to get a thick application to be practical.
John Weber
tgschs10 on mon 18 sep 00
I'm relatively new to spraying but for what it is worth, I have a Paasche
#-62 spray gun that I find is easy to maintain and use in contrast to some
of the smaller and cheaper guns. As I am making larger and larger pieces
dipping is becoming impossible. I'm having some trouble guaging the
thickness of the glaze to use for spraying and with leaving fingerprints on
the powdery glaze. Last time I tried over spraying with hair spray to get
the pot from the spray booth to the kiln with only a modicum of success.
Should I be using CMC to harden the surface?
Tom Sawyer
tgschs10@msn.com
Martin Howard on mon 18 sep 00
At the GB East Anglian Potter's Camp during August this year, one of those
present used a vacuum cleaner to spray his pots. It worked perfectly.
This was an old type of vacuum cleaner which was sold with a paint spraying
attachment, which was fitted to what is normally the exhaust end of the
machine.
I remember having such a machine way back, but never used it for paint or
glaze spraying. Now they can only be found at car boot sales. Worth while
finding one if you can.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
Potwork@AOL.COM on tue 19 sep 00
In a message dated 09/18/2000 2:45:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tgschs10@EMAIL.MSN.COM writes:
> I'm having some trouble guaging the
> thickness of the glaze to use for spraying and with leaving fingerprints on
> the powdery glaze. Last time I tried over spraying with hair spray to get
> the pot from the spray booth to the kiln with only a modicum of success.
> Should I be using CMC to harden the surface?
> Tom Sawyer
> tgschs10@msn.com
Tom... I've found that wearing latex gloves while handling sprayed pots keeps
the fingers from making marks...... at least with my glazes. You might try
it. Seems like it might be the oils on or dampness of the fingers that causes
it.
Bobbi in PA
Marc Kiessling on tue 19 sep 00
Hi:
These vacuum spray units can be found at most used vacuum cleaner
stores in North America (unsure regarding our European friends or else
where on the planet). I see them every time I need a part for my vacuum.
I've used them before myself and they work great.
Regards, Marc
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
At 09:27 PM 18/09/00 +0100, you wrote:
>At the GB East Anglian Potter's Camp during August this year, one of those
>present used a vacuum cleaner to spray his pots. It worked perfectly.
>This was an old type of vacuum cleaner which was sold with a paint spraying
>attachment, which was fitted to what is normally the exhaust end of the
>machine.
>
>I remember having such a machine way back, but never used it for paint or
>glaze spraying. Now they can only be found at car boot sales. Worth while
>finding one if you can.
>
>Martin Howard
>Webb's Cottage Pottery
>Woolpits Road, Great Saling
>BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
>England
>martin@webbscottage.co.uk
dilek tuncman on wed 20 sep 00
hi;
I've seen in my seramic supplier selling paasch equipment and parts to spray
on clay bodies..HS set and HS#3 set are given in their price list.
I haven't use one but you can e-mail them and ask:)))
www.greenbarn.com
greenbarn@bc.sympatico.ca
good luck
dilek T.
bc
>From: Cindy Strnad
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: spraying glazes
>Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 18:38:58 -0600
>
>Hi there, everybody.
>
>I'd like to spray glazes with more accuracy than is possible with my large
>sprayer, but when I asked the guy at Mile-Hi whether their smaller Paasch
>air brushes would work with glazes, he said they wouldn't. Is this true?
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Cindy Strnad
>Earthen Vessels Pottery
>RR 1, Box 51
>Custer, SD 57730
>USA
>earthenv@gwtc.net
>www.earthenvesselssd.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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Potwork@AOL.COM on fri 22 sep 00
In a message dated 09/18/2000 2:45:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tgschs10@EMAIL.MSN.COM writes:
> I'm having some trouble guaging the
> thickness of the glaze to use for spraying and with leaving fingerprints on
> the powdery glaze. Last time I tried over spraying with hair spray to get
> the pot from the spray booth to the kiln with only a modicum of success.
> Should I be using CMC to harden the surface?
> Tom Sawyer
> tgschs10@msn.com
Tom... I've found that wearing latex gloves while handling sprayed pots keeps
the fingers from making marks...... at least with my glazes. You might try
it. Seems like it might be the oils on or dampness of the fingers that causes
it.
Bobbi in PA
Gwyn Ace on sun 8 oct 00
Cindy.......Somewhere long ago!!!! I heard of a 'trick'which a potter =
found useful in spraying glazes. They had found that 3 coats gave the =
thickness they needed and tinted the second coat with a food coloring =
(or colouring) to show an even coverage and then used the plain glaze =
for the third coat. This could help. Regards ...Gwyn in N.Z.
orion on sun 8 oct 00
A good way to judge sprayed glaze thickness is to compare a dipped test tile
to a sprayed one.
I use a trim tool to gouge a groove through the damp raw coat, down to the
surface of the test tile. It's surprisingly easy to judge if the
thicknesses are the same, using this method.
I keep a small cache of bisqued test/utility tiles (scraps) around that can
be easily rinsed, dried, and re-used time after time, for tasks like this.
Best to all!
Ellen Baker
Glacier, WA
orion@telcomplus.net
Cindy Strnad on sun 8 oct 00
Thanks, Gwen.
It is hard to tell when you've gone far enough when spraying. I was looking
at bumps on my banding wheel. Pretty sad. The idea of coloring added
to one of the glaze coats is an interesting idea. Thanks again,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
David Hewitt on mon 9 oct 00
Spraying glazes can be the ideal way of applying glaze to a large piece
and also to avoid thickness variation on pieces in general that can
arise from other methods, such as dipping and pouring. The importance of
avoiding thickness variation, of course, also depends on the glaze and
whether or not a thickness variation is detrimental to the final result.
Assuming that you do not want a thickness variation effect you still
have to decide on the thickness to suit the glaze and desired finish.
For different pieces and glazes I might spray two coats or three coats
or four coats. If the glaze starts to dribble you have added too much as
you will end up with a different thickness in some parts. A stage before
dribbling is that the surface comes up in pimples due to the saturation
of the body. This has not been a problem for me when it has arisen. When
it is safe to touch I will gently rub over the pimples to flatten a bit.
I have a piece of blue tack on my wheel to enable counting. I make sure
that each coat has dried before I apply the next. A four coat
application may require a wait of 30 minutes or more according to the
temperature before proceeding from coat two to three and four.
Another detail is that after each coat I will rotate the piece say 90
degrees as I have found that starting and finishing at the same point
can in fact produce a different thickness at the start and finish point.
As has been mentioned by others, details of application need to be kept
constant from one session to another, such as the glaze water content
and the distance of the sprayer from the pot and nozzle setting.
As I spray much of my work and the desired procedure / final effect
varies from one piece to another, I find it necessary to keep careful
notes of what I have done.
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery ,
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP18 3DQ, UK. Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
FAX:- +44 (0) 870 1617274
Web site http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
Ben Friesen on fri 3 dec 04
Hi everyone,
I've started spraying a few of my glazes. So far I've been leaving my =
glazes at the same consistency as when I dipped. I'm happy with the =
results but I seem to be going through a whole lot more glaze then =
before.... Is this normal and just part of spraying or can I thin them =
down a bit or what? Thanks for any comments or help anyone would =
have.....
Ben Friesen
Stonepath Pottery
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Vince Pitelka on fri 3 dec 04
Ben Friesen wrote:
"I've started spraying a few of my glazes. So far I've been leaving my
glazes at the same consistency as when I dipped. I'm happy with the results
but I seem to be going through a whole lot more glaze then before.... Is
this normal and just part of spraying or can I thin them down a bit or what?
Thanks for any comments or help anyone would have....."
Ben -
When spraying glazes with normal high-pressure spraying apparatus, it is
normal to expect a large loss to overspray. Hopefully you are using a
proper spray booth so that you are not distributing that overspray across
your studio, in which case it subsequently ends up in your lungs.
If you want to eliminate most of the overspray, switch over to a proper
turbine-driven HVLP (high volume low pressure) system. The transfer rate is
far greater with HVLP, and there is very low loss to overspray.
For anyone who does a lot of spraying, a proper turbine-driven HVLP system
is the only way to go.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Ben Friesen on sat 4 dec 04
Thank-you, Vince, for the reply. I do all my spraying outside under a
sheltered alcove sort of thing. I do wear a mask but so far have not
constructed a spray booth. I use a Critter sprayer which I really like
although it's not HVLP--- where would I find a sprayer like you mentioned
and are they expensive?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Pitelka"
To:
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: spraying glazes
> Ben Friesen wrote:
> "I've started spraying a few of my glazes. So far I've been leaving my
> glazes at the same consistency as when I dipped. I'm happy with the
results
> but I seem to be going through a whole lot more glaze then before.... Is
> this normal and just part of spraying or can I thin them down a bit or
what?
> Thanks for any comments or help anyone would have....."
>
> Ben -
> When spraying glazes with normal high-pressure spraying apparatus, it is
> normal to expect a large loss to overspray. Hopefully you are using a
> proper spray booth so that you are not distributing that overspray across
> your studio, in which case it subsequently ends up in your lungs.
>
> If you want to eliminate most of the overspray, switch over to a proper
> turbine-driven HVLP (high volume low pressure) system. The transfer rate
is
> far greater with HVLP, and there is very low loss to overspray.
>
> For anyone who does a lot of spraying, a proper turbine-driven HVLP system
> is the only way to go.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Vince Pitelka on sun 5 dec 04
> Thank-you, Vince, for the reply. I do all my spraying outside under a
> sheltered alcove sort of thing. I do wear a mask but so far have not
> constructed a spray booth. I use a Critter sprayer which I really like
> although it's not HVLP--- where would I find a sprayer like you mentioned
> and are they expensive?
Ben -
Glad to hear that you are doing your spraying outside under a shed. You can
get a pretty decent low-budget turbine-driven HVLP system from
www.harborfreight.com for less than $100. A number of Clayart members are
using them and have reported good performance. One of my students has one,
and he gets good results.
I would not count on a lot of longevity with the low-budget turbine-driven
HVLP system. As in most cases, you get what you pay for, but in this case
the low budget ones do seem to work pretty well. Campbell Hausfeld has one
less than $200 that is pretty highly rated. For the best ones, you get up
into the thousands of dollars.
If you go to www.amazon.com and enter "Campbell Hausfeld" you can access the
HV2000 turbine-driven HVLP spray system, price $199.
Fine woodworking published an article about HVLP systems for less than $500
and you can access it online at:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00051.asp
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
bill edwards on fri 1 apr 05
I once was a beach airbrush artist (Paid off college
loans working on the beach, the good ole days in the
hot sun) and still do airbrushing on the side because
I want to maintain my techniques I formed over the
years. Often potters have asked me to do shirts and
such using an airbrush for their shows, still do and
most likely always will continue this art form that
never really caught on in the pottery industry other
than commercial use where clay is concerned.
Airbrushing pottery can be interesting as well as
glaze application using larger air-gun equipment. I
haven't seen or rather may have missed posts and webs
that list these methods of art using airbrushing
techniques. I would like to know how many spray
glazers are currently using this method and do you
have a web site with your work on there?
Before I started the business I spoke of earlier in a
post we used to have an airbrush magazine where
potters at times would submit their works on pottery
done with airbrush techniques. This magazine no longer
exists but the work was rather amazing. Dipping is
still vital to what I do but I can achieve some
unusual results by spray application over the dipped
pieces. If I get tired of that I usually run and
airbrush something on a canvas or a shirt to finish
off my day.(using appropiate paint choices of course!)
I do caution that 'all' dusts are hazardous, not
particulary toxic. A mask is good! Outside glaze
spraying or a good spray booth if inside, still
wearing a mask regardless. We want healthy potters. I
have some exchangers who opted to exchange some pieces
with me once I get the first firing in because I
missed the boat on the potters exchange this year. I
suspect they might get some of these pieces where I
use multi-methods between dipping and spraying? We'll
see. But the fun starts here and the party is back
on!!!
I have pondered how airbrushed majolica would look
with carefully controlled hands???? Does anyone know?
Linda A......
Bill Edwards
Edmar Studio and Gallery
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Jonathan Kaplan on fri 1 apr 05
We have been doing alot of spraying on very large lamp bases for a
client.
Things to consider for effective spraying:
1. glaze rheology
2. spray booth
3 spray gun
1. Glaze Rheology
Glazes for spraying need to lay down smooth and have a surface that is
hard and not subject to damage from handling. This is accomplished
easily by deflocculating the glaze and making it very wet, and using
the correct binders and suspending agents. We use Darvan 811 to
deflocculate the glaze, an addition of V-Gum Cer to suspend the glaze,
and a small amount of PVA to bind the glaze. The resulting surface is
hard and smooth. No air fluff. We set the specific gravity and
viscosity different then for dipping ware.
2. Spray booth
We have a motorized banding wheel/wheel head, variable speed, added to
our spray booth. We recently upgraded to that big ass Laguna spray
booth which has been plumbed in directly to our drain system. Its a
quick and easy wash out. The metal filters are fabulous. We have plans
to change the Laguna booth to a waterfall booth over the summer.
3. Spray gun
We use a DeViliblis HVLP gravity feed spray gun. Fabulous. Runs at
about 20 pounds of pressure and lays on a fine coating of glaze. using
the motorized banding wheel makes it a breeze.
Of course you can spray outside, use a box to spray in with a furnace
filter, or any number of methods. However, the most important thing is
to understand the glaze rheology and set the glaze correctly.
Best
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
(970) 879-9139
(please use this address for all USPS deliveries)
Plant Location:
1280 13th Street Suite K
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
(please use this address for all UPS, courier, and common carrier
deliveries only!!)
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
bonnie staffel on sat 2 apr 05
I have airbrushed Mason Stains on my stoneware majolica style pots. I dip
the pots in my basic white glaze first and then decorate according to the
design I was making. Used torn paper masks occasionally. Several pots are
shown on my website both on my Pottery and Recent Works pages. There is a
landscape plate and vase, as well as some birds. I airbrushed a lot during
one period when I had a nice spray booth in my studio. There was also a
time when I even sprayed the base glaze on when I wanted a special effect as
it was impossible to brush colors over the pebbly sprayed surface. I
used this method when I was working in low fire copper reds in my electric
kiln. That way I could spray the copper carbonate as well as Mason Stains
to get a varied effect in the reduction.
I purchased a smaller portable Paasche spray booth and hope to set it up in
the driveway this summer.
Best to all,
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
Charter Member Potters Council
David Martin Hershey on sun 3 apr 05
Hi Jonathan,
Great to see that you're finding some time
to write for ClayArt again.
All your past writing in the archives are a
wonderful source of knowledge, and we all
appreciate your contributions very much.
I found your recent post on spraying very interesting.
It had never occurred to me to deflocculate glaze
before spraying, to help it lay down without over-thinning.
(a real "D'oh" moment for me ;-)
Would you care to elaborate on the subject a bit?
Such as what SG & visc you aim for in your work?
How do you process your glaze before use?
What cone you bisque to for your sprayed pieces?
The merits of V-Gum Cer as a suspension agent
vs. other methods?
I've been spraying off & on for a couple of years,
and I guess at first I was just lucky.
Lately my glazes have been more problematic.
The typical problems of roughness and trapped air.
It's amazing how a small change in oxides or stains
in a base glaze, can change its spraying properties.
Also air volume, viscosity, & additives.
I have the Laguna spray booth too, and think it's a great machine.
I use a PorterCable HVLP gravity gun- the same as the Harbor
Freight one, and also typically use 18-20 lbs of pressure.
I too use a PVA as a binder, but find it also acts a bit
like a flocculent, and may contribute to fluffing.
Is this your experience?
Any books or technical articles you can recommend on spraying?
Thanks again for all your contributions to the community.
Best, DMH
Beautiful Hermosa Beach CA USA
where all the oxalis
have already lain down
which means that
Summer won't be far behind
Jonathan Kaplan on mon 4 apr 05
On Apr 3, 2005, at 9:15 PM, David Martin Hershey wrote:
> Hi Jonathan,
>
> Great to see that you're finding some time
> to write for ClayArt again.
Just lurking every once and a while.
>
> All your past writing in the archives are a
> wonderful source of knowledge, and we all
> appreciate your contributions very much.
Thanks. I appreciate your appreciation!
>
> I found your recent post on spraying very interesting.
> It had never occurred to me to deflocculate glaze
> before spraying, to help it lay down without over-thinning.
> (a real "D'oh" moment for me ;-)
>
> Would you care to elaborate on the subject a bit?
Well too much deflocculation can thin the glaze out too much. The point
is to establish some sort of base line and try to achieve that when you
make your glaze. A good empirical method is if you use hot wax/paraffin
as a resist on the bottoms of your ware, if you dip the pottery, the
glaze should sheet off the paraffin PDQ and leave no runs or drips.
Very un-scientific. You should look at the surface of the freshly
glazed ware and examine for heavy areas, runs, drips, etc. Glaze set at
the correct poise will exhibit a perfectly smooth surface and an even
rate of drying.
I can't tell you what the proper amount of deflocculation needs to be.
Some glazes I use 10ml 811 product for a 3000 to a 5000 gram batch, but
all glazes will be different. You will need to establish your own
baseline.
> Such as what SG & visc you aim for in your work?
We have a glaze combination for a product we make for another potter.
Its a layered glaze. We aim for 1.7 on the first glaze and about 1.5 on
the second glaze. Most studio glazes work well in the 1.45-1.6 range,
but please this is not an absolute but in general, works ok but might
need some tweaking in your shop.
> How do you process your glaze before use?
Weigh out the dry mix. We have all our glazes in HyperGlaze and have a
methodology of weighing out so a not to loose track and make a mistake.
Approximate the amount of water needed (use hot water), and use less.
Then you can always bring it up to where you need it. Weigh out V Gum
Cer, add to HOT water and mix thoroughly until disolved. Add 811
product and PVA, Mix. Add dry glaze materials and mix. Tweak with water
until you have a fairly fluid slop. Sieve. We use a talisman and do a
30 mesh sieve and then a 60 mesh. Check specific gravity and adjust.
Check Viscosity and adjust.
> What cone you bisque to for your sprayed pieces?
Everything in our shop goes to cone 06 fired in 3 segments as follows
1.ambient to 220 deg F at 50 degrees F per hour with a 3-4 hour hold
2. 100 degrees F per hour to 550 with a 1 hour hold
3. 250 degrees F per hour to 1800 degrees F with a 30 min hold is a
perfect cone 06 in our kilns.
> The merits of V-Gum Cer as a suspension agent
> vs. other methods?
Its easy and I don't like using bentonites. V Gum, Macaloid, etc. are
beneficiated bentonites. and work very well for us
>
> I've been spraying off & on for a couple of years,
> and I guess at first I was just lucky.
>
> Lately my glazes have been more problematic.
> The typical problems of roughness and trapped air.
> It's amazing how a small change in oxides or stains
> in a base glaze, can change its spraying properties.
> Also air volume, viscosity, & additives.
>
> I have the Laguna spray booth too, and think it's a great machine.
> I use a PorterCable HVLP gravity gun- the same as the Harbor
> Freight one, and also typically use 18-20 lbs of pressure.
>
> I too use a PVA as a binder, but find it also acts a bit
> like a flocculent, and may contribute to fluffing.
> Is this your experience?
No. You can also use acrylic artists medium as a surface hardening
agent. Works fine burns out clean.
>
> Any books or technical articles you can recommend on spraying?
If you can find a copy of Taylor and Bull "Ceramic Glaze Technology"
your are in for a real treat.
>
> Thanks again for all your contributions to the community.
No problem.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
(970) 879-9139
(please use this address for all USPS deliveries)
Plant Location:
1280 13th Street Suite K
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
(please use this address for all UPS, courier, and common carrier
deliveries only!!)
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
>
> Best, DMH
> Beautiful Hermosa Beach CA USA
> where all the oxalis
> have already lain down
> which means that
> Summer won't be far behind
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Linda Ferzoco on wed 20 apr 05
I'm seeing from some of my recent work that spraying will achieve the
effects I want more reliably than I seem to be able to do with
dipping/dripping/dropping technique (I use that word with caution).
At a recent demo in Walnut Creek, California, Steven Hill showed slides of
his spraying set up, pointing out the system he uses which draws the glaze
from buckets and so avoids having to hold (and replace) the glaze in a
reservoir above the hand. Less tiring for long spraying sessions. This set
up is expensive (a sprayer for each of the glazes he uses in his layered
glaze pieces), but sounds worth it for a production potter especially.
It makes so much sense to this beginner to use this kind of system. Who can
tell me more about it? I think he uses the HVLP type of sprayer. Is that
enough to draw a viscuous glaze six feet up tubing to the sprayer?
Cheers, Linda
Cindy Buehler on fri 20 apr 12
There is a Steven Hill workshop at 323clay that will cover spraying glazes.=
H=3D
e also has a new video you might find useful. http://www.323clay.com/323Cl=
a=3D
y.com/___Steven_Hill_Workshop,_May_31_=3DE2=3D80=3D93_Sunday,_June_3,_2012_=
__.html=3D
Cindy
Cinderelish.com
>=3D20
> -----------------------------
>=3D20
> Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 09:36:42 -0400
> From: Lili Krakowski
> Subject: Spraying glaze. Advice?
>=3D20
> What "we" need is a few good "how-to" articles on spraying glaze.
>=3D20
> All my life I have poured, dipped, or brushed glaze on. But, now that =
=3D3D=3D
> my hands are in pretty poor shape, these have become difficult for =3D3D
> bigger, "clumsier" pots.
>=3D20
> So spraying glaze becomes very desirable.
>=3D20
> How come I find no articles on how to do it? Not what sprayer to =3D3D
> buy...I have a Cricket--but advice about glaze thickness, composition, =
=3D3D=3D
> additives, preparation of bisque, thickness of layers and so on? =3D3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>=3D20
> -----------------------------
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