hjbrager@owt.com on thu 13 jun 96
I've been cutting stencils in heavy vinyl with an X-Acto knife by hand.
Does anyone know of an easier way?
TIA (especially from my formerly good right hand)
Judy (hjbrager@oneworld.owt.com)
Michelle Campbell on fri 14 jun 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've been cutting stencils in heavy vinyl with an X-Acto knife by hand.
>Does anyone know of an easier way?
>TIA (especially from my formerly good right hand)
>Judy (hjbrager@oneworld.owt.com)
>
>
Hi Judy,
A wood burning tool with a stencil cutting tip makes the job much easier,
aththough I wouldn't say the fumes are healthy.....
Good Luck
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Michelle Campbell
Lacka Creek Pottery
Drayton Valley, Alberta
Lackacreek@ccinet.ab.ca
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Bill Aycock on fri 14 jun 96
At 08:32 AM 6/13/96 EDT, hjbrager@owt.com wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've been cutting stencils in heavy vinyl with an X-Acto knife by hand.
>Does anyone know of an easier way?
>TIA (especially from my formerly good right hand)
>Judy (hjbrager@oneworld.owt.com)
>
Judy---
Most art supply catalogs have a tool that is essentially a small soldering
iron with a tip that heats to a temperature appropriate for stencil cutting.
Some call them "wood burning" sets, others use the word stencil in the name.
I have seen some that have an actual Xacto blade mounted in the tip.
One Catalog (standard disclaimer- I have no connection---) , Dick Blick, of
Galesburg, IL, has a "Stencil Burner" and a "stencil cutting pen", both at
about $20. Interestingly- they are on the back side of the page that has
Xacto knives.
(1-800-447-8192) They have an E-mail address, info@dickblick.com
I have used an actual "pencil" soldering Iron for this, but it tends to
leave a "beaded" edge.
Good luck from Bill on Persimmon Hill
Christine Fennimore on mon 17 jun 96
Another suggestion might be to check with your local vinyl sign-maker. We
have one here locally who also happens to be a potter and she has a
computerized printer that takes designs and transfers them to a printer type
machine which cuts vinyl stencils.
P. Jaine Jacobs on tue 18 jun 96
Judy, you might like to consider a different material. Self-stick labels are
easy to cut, even with scissors (especially the new Fiskars with the spring).
They can also be left in place to burn out in, for example, a raku kiln.
Jaine in Cresskill, where today's forecast is for "thunder"
Mary Molinaro on wed 19 jun 96
From: jdapogny@umich.edu (James Dapogny)
Subject: Stencils
I'm new to the LIST so don't know exactly what I am doing. Please let me
know if this reaches you!
First of all, the CLAYART LIST is great; what a civilized and friendly way
to communicate. After a week of reading, I already feel part of a huge
family of potters.
Secondly, it's neat when those writing in include their city and state next
to their names. The diversity of places is fascinating and impressive..
More to the point: try cutting stencils out of those slightly fuzzy,
flexible, rubberized crib sheets for infants. The glaxe doesn't leak
through, they hold up, they're easy to cut, and best of all the glaze
doesn't bead up in that infuriating way when you spray. And of course they
can be rinsed out, dried, and reused.
Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, Michigan
The TRIAD Group on wed 19 jun 96
hjbrager@owt.com wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I've been cutting stencils in heavy vinyl with an X-Acto knife by hand.
>Does anyone know of an easier way?
>TIA (especially from my formerly good right hand)
>Judy (hjbrager@oneworld.owt.com)
Someone in my studio (Kirkland Arts Center ) was using old x-rays she
got from the hospital. She cut them with scissors. They last a long
time, could be reused with glase applications and they were free.
Robert Acton on tue 15 apr 97
I want to produce a negative form (smoked black) with raku within a white
crackle. I'd like to repeat the pattern. As such, I've tried to produce
a stencil from plastic, wax inside it thus resisting the glaze around it.
I've had problems with the wax slipping under the plastic stencil and
messing up the design.
Does anybody have any ideas about how to produce a stencil that I could
use in this way (repeating) that wouldn't let the wax leak underneath the
edges?
Hoping I've explained my problem with enough detail...Thanks in
advance.
Bob Acton
in Calgary where it won't stop snowing!
Michael R. Wardell on wed 16 apr 97
try cutting the stencil out of wide masking tape. so, trace the design on the
tape, cut out the part you want to be waxed, and then press the tape onto the
pot. we use tape resist alot in raku, so I know it will stick to bisquit pots.
I don't know if you can find tape wide enough. let me know how it works out.
Michael Wardell
Wardell Pottery
Marcia Selsor on wed 16 apr 97
Robert,
I use a rubber latex and peel it off. Can not be reused. I'll be in an
article in CM in May showing the process.
Marcia in Montana
Robert Acton wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> I want to produce a negative form (smoked black) with raku within a white
> crackle. I'd like to repeat the pattern.
> Bob Acton
> in Calgary where it won't stop snowing!
--
Marcia Selsor
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/
mjbmls@imt.net
Jaine & George on wed 16 apr 97
Bob, you needn't use wax at all. I've had success making repeated
patterns for raku using self-stick paper. Avery makes labels in many
sizes up to at least 81/2*11 [full sheet] that work well. Just cut out
your design as many times as you need, peel the backing, and apply;
glaze over the stencil, which will burn out in the firing.
Jaine in Cresskill, where the tulips are about to bloom
Robert Acton wrote:
> I want to produce a negative form (smoked black) with raku within a white crac
> Bob Acton
> in Calgary where it won't stop snowing!
Darrol F. Shillingburg on wed 16 apr 97
Hi Bob,
Use a repositionable adhesive on the back of your stencil. Graphic designers and
layout people use these adhesivies for simular purposes. Make sure it is
'repositionable' or your stencil becomes the mask!
Darrol in Elephant Butte, NM
You Wrote:
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I want to produce a negative form (smoked black) with raku within a white
crackle. I'd like to repeat the pattern. As such, I've tried to produce
a stencil from plastic, wax inside it thus resisting the glaze around it.
I've had problems with the wax slipping under the plastic stencil and
messing up the design.
Does anybody have any ideas about how to produce a stencil that I could
use in this way (repeating) that wouldn't let the wax leak underneath the
edges?
Hoping I've explained my problem with enough detail...Thanks in
advance.
Bob Acton
in Calgary where it won't stop snowing!
Dan Saultman on wed 16 apr 97
Robert Acton wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> I want to produce a negative form (smoked black) with raku within a white
> crackle. I'd like to repeat the pattern. As such, I've tried to produce
> a stencil from plastic, wax inside it thus resisting the glaze around it.
> I've had problems with the wax slipping under the plastic stencil and
> messing up the design.
>
> Does anybody have any ideas about how to produce a stencil that I could
> use in this way (repeating) that wouldn't let the wax leak underneath the
> edges?
>
> Hoping I've explained my problem with enough detail...Thanks in
> advance.
>
> Bob Acton
> in Calgary where it won't stop snowing!
BOB, Try Krylon acrylic spray in an aerosol can. Also try cutting a
small square of celulose sponge, dampen it, squeeze out the excess
water and dip your sponge lightly in your wax resist using a shallow
dish. Little disposable paint rollers also can be used for wax resist
one time then throw them out. Hope theses ideas help.
Dan Saultman
Arkham@aol.com on thu 17 apr 97
BOB-
I do this quite a bit with raku. i love the simple black of the reduced pot
in contrast with bright clean white with nice dark crackle... YUMMIE...
anyway, i just use a heavy paper, like manila envelope type, cut out the
strencil, some rather involved, then use a comercial spray glue <3M's spray
mount> and stick it to the vessel, glaze away (i brush or spray), then peel
off the stencil.... this works real well for one of a kind desgns and i 'spos
eif you cut out a bunch of the same things you can create a great pattern...
well there it is for what its worth... hope this might help..
sean
June Perry on thu 17 apr 97
Another good thing to try is contact paper made for kitchen shelving. It
comes in widths wide enough to cover a normal kitchen cupboard shelf. It's
pretty sturdy stuff and you can probably reuse it a long time.
Just draw your design, cut it out and the remove the non stick backing to
expose the sticky (and it's very sticky) side. Apply, glaze and remove.
Regards,
June
Inge Jung on thu 17 apr 97
Hi Robert,
You could try to have one plastic stencil as your permanent stencil.
From this stencil you can trace as many newspaper stencils as you
need. In order for the newspaper stencils to stick on your piece, wet it
down and spray the glaze right over it. This way you avoid having to
use waxresist at all.
I hope, I understood your question right.
Let me know if it helps.
Good luck
Inge
Robert Kittel on thu 17 apr 97
Try Bisquing your glaze first, apply a stencil of some type, masking tape,
frisket paper or whatever then spray your glaze or oxide. The Glaze will be
somewhat hardened not allowing the oxide to bleed under nor will the mask
pull the raw glaze off when you remove it.
Bob
JULIE ATWOOD on fri 18 apr 97
Try using a dense sponge with your design cut out on it instead of a stencil.
Sponge the wax design on to resist the glaze.
Julie in Seattle
On Tue, 15 Apr 1997, Robert Acton wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> I want to produce a negative form (smoked black) with raku within a white
> crackle. I'd like to repeat the pattern. As such, I've tried to produce
> a stencil from plastic, wax inside it thus resisting the glaze around it.
> I've had problems with the wax slipping under the plastic stencil and
> messing up the design.
>
> Does anybody have any ideas about how to produce a stencil that I could
> use in this way (repeating) that wouldn't let the wax leak underneath the
> edges?
>
> Hoping I've explained my problem with enough detail...Thanks in
> advance.
>
> Bob Acton
> in Calgary where it won't stop snowing!
>
ZALT@aol.com on fri 18 apr 97
Bob;
Why don`t you try your pattern with a dense sponge.
Terrance F. Lazaroff
St Hubert, Qc, Canada!!!!!!!
Larry Phillips on sun 20 apr 97
In article <970415165409_102164.167_HHO69-1@compuserve.com>,
"Michael R. Wardell" <102164.167@CompuServe.COM> writes:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> try cutting the stencil out of wide masking tape. so, trace the design on the
> tape, cut out the part you want to be waxed, and then press the tape onto the
> pot. we use tape resist alot in raku, so I know it will stick to bisquit pots
> I don't know if you can find tape wide enough. let me know how it works out.
Wide masking tape is a standard item in signmaking, and is used as
a 'transfer tape' to apply vinyl lettering and graphics. It comes
in many convenient widths, from about 1 inch to 48 inches.
An additional advantage to transfer tape is that it is less 'tacky' than
painter's tape, and so it comes off more easily. Find a sign supply
place in your area, and if they won't sell to you (they are wholesalers),
any sign shop should be willing to sell you some.
--
All unsolicited email addressed to me _may_ be posted to public view,
without further discussion. If that is unacceptable to you, don't email.
Robert Acton on sun 27 apr 97
Thanks for all your great advice about stencils to apply wax for a resist
pattern in Raku. I eventually used a latex resist, Mayco Liquid Mask,
applied within a design I drew on the bisque piece with a pencil. After
applying the glaze, the latex lifted off cleanly using a pin and leaving a
clean edge.
Bob Acton
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