Kevin King on wed 30 apr 97
Hello All,
I am in search of some stoneware glaze formulas to for a high school
ceramics department that is completelt overhauling it's program. We are
changing over to all stoneware work, and are particularly interested in
cone 6 and cone 10 oxidation glazes that preferably do not contain
barium compounds (saftey hazards). While we've got a few already, an
extensive base is nessescary for testing, etc. So, if anyone has a few
good glazes that they'd be willing to share, we'd be extremely grateful,
and perhaps willing to post the entire collection once testing is
complete. Just as incentive, here's a formula of one of the already
tested cone 6 glazes, a great burned red breaking into tan:
King's Katsup red
EPK 5
Silica 30
Custer Feldspar 20
Talc 14
Gerstley Borate 32
add:
Red Iron Oxide 15
for nice broken tan add also Rutile 4%
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Kevin
Wendy Hampton on sat 3 may 97
H,
For the Stoneware glaze requests and for the Mt St Helens Ash questions -
here are two glazes I have used successfully but not put thru any analysis.
I got them at an art studio where I used to take classes. They are better
if layered with other glazes.
Good luck
Cone 6 Oxidation
St. Helens Almond
Custer Spar 800g
Zinc Oxide 172g
Whiting 298g
EPK 236g
Flint 94g
Rutile 160g
St. Helens Ash 400g
St. Helens Blue
Custar Spar 1988g
Flint 268.6g
Whiting 706.8g
EPK 580.8g
Zinc Oxide 410.4g
Dolomite 22.2g
Colmanite 44.4g
St. Helens Ash 1000g
Cobalt Oxide 5g
This makes 3 gallons of glaze
Wendy from Bainbridge Island WA
The Shelfords on mon 5 may 97
>Hello All,
>I am in search of some stoneware glaze formulas to for a high school
>ceramics department that is completelt overhauling it's program. We are
>changing over to all stoneware work, and are particularly interested in
>cone 6 and cone 10 oxidation glazes that preferably do not contain
>barium compounds (saftey hazards).
Hi Kevin -
Here are a couple of standards from the Richmond Potters Club, and a few of
my own formulation that have worked well in ^6 oxidation. They aren't
revolutionary (my exciting ones have things like barium in them, or are less
predictable for a classroom situation) but they have been reliable, and
allow for some play. They all calculate out to well within the INSIGHT
"limit formulas" for maturity at ^6.
RED TENMOKU (Richmond Potters' Club standard, unknown origin)
(a rich glossy very dark brown with a lot of life and aventurine
possibilities where thick. This is also a good base glaze. The RIO can be
replaced with cobalt, copper, tin, etc. for other colours, useful for
overdipping or whatever.)
73.5 Cornwall Stone
9.6 Whiting
3.3 Gerstley Borate
4.5 Lithium Carb.
9.1 Iron Oxide Red
TENMOKU GOLD
(my variation on the RPC oxidation tenmoku: this version is sugared with
gold flecks - good either as a base for over-dipping, or on its own.)
61 Cornwall Stone
8 Whiting
3 Gerstley Borate
10 Iron Oxide Red
5.5 Lithium Carb.
7 Dolomite
5.5 Flint
MANNING GREEN (Richmond Potters' Club standard, unknown origin)
(a very dark green matt - usually boring on it's own but excellent for
over-dipping or otherwise slurping around. Also a good base glaze - the
copper can be replaced with judicious amounts of other colourants, and they
all make pleasant matt glazes.)
37 Volcanic Ash
8 Gerstley Borate
20 Neph Sy
17 Whiting
18 Kaolin
6 Flint
4 Copper Oxide
OATMEAL SATIN
(the club's standard oatmeal was too runny - my variation sits better and is
a good base glaze. Surface waxy where thinnish, to glossy if thick.
Underglaze painting shows through with softened edges. The titanium makes
it reactive when over-dipped with some other glazes, and you may get areas
of aventurine.)
35 Custer Feldspar
5 Dolomite
4.5 Whiting
8 Kaolin
12 Flint
17 Gerstley Borate
11 Talc
3.5 Titanium Dioxide
4 Zircopax
BUTTERSCOTCH GLOSSY
(An orangey tinted clear glaze - I like it for stone ginger bottles and
other old-timey things)
28 Custer Feldspar
19 Neph Sy
19 Flint
17 Gerstley Borate
5 Zinc Oxide
4 Whiting
3 Lithium Carb
3 Manganese Dioxide
2 Iron Oxide Red
4 Zircopax
BROWN BUTTER
(a waxy surfaced, very regular and predictable glaze. Pleasant dark brown
with black flecks. Takes overdipping with more reactive glazes very nicely
- e.g. the oatmeal. The Borax means it shouldn't be left to hang around too
long before being used)
46 Volcanic Ash
20 Spodumene
10 Dolomite
10 Talc
10 Ball Clay
4 Borax
2.7 Ilmenite
2.7 Iron Chromate
2.7 Rutile
If anyone tests these and comes up with problems, new ideas, good variations
etc. could they let me know? I'll look forward to a larger list being
posted to clayart.
- Veronica
____________________________________________________________________________
Veronica Shelford
e-mail: shelford@island.net
s-mail: P.O. Box 6-15
Thetis Island, BC V0R 2Y0
Tel: (250) 246-1509
____________________________________________________________________________
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