ED Cowell on fri 7 feb 97
Thanks, Libby, for detailed instructions on making of reed teapot handles.
Once again, I am looking for a Canadian source of material. Does anyone
know where I can obtain reeds in the great white north - preferably in the
Kitchener/Toronto, Ontario area?
Laurie Cowell
Craig Martell on sat 8 feb 97
Hi: I've been meaning to post this for days. A good source of high quality
Rattan Cane handles is:
Cane Craft (David Nettleship)
Lowestoft Road, Hopton
Great Yarmouth, Norfolk NR31 9AH,
England
You can buy small amounts of these handles from US ceramic suppliers but the
expense is great. If you buy direct from Cane Craft you can get very good
volume discounts as well as more discount for prepayment of the order. I've
been buying handles from them for almost 20yrs and I have not one complaint.
We usually organize a large group buy involving several potters and save
about 35-40% of the retail cost. They will ship in installments to avoid
customs hassles.
Best Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
Lori Leary on wed 30 jul 97
Hello all:
I have recently become interested in fashioning my own teapot handles.
For those of you that make your own, do you have any tips or
suggestions? Also, could anyone recommend a book that might cover this?
Thanks,
Lori
lleary@sccoast.net
Pawleys Island, SC
....where the only tea we drink 'round here THIS time of year is ICED...
Cindy on thu 31 jul 97
Lori,
I pull my teapot handles separately, then shape them and let the centers
harden 'til stable while I keep the ends loosely covered. I make all
shapes--triangular (in cross-section, of course), round, square, free-form
viney kind of handles--whatever I feel would look good on that teapot.
Now I realize that you're looking for ideas regarding wooden/woven-type
handles, but I couldn't resist putting in my two cents. I like clay
handles, they're cheap, easy, and fun to make, and you can do whatever you
want with 'em.
There was a thread not too long ago (can't remember, but I've only been on
since January) about making that kind of handles. You can probably find it.
In the mean time, if you do shows, or visit shows, you might try asking
among the basket weavers. (Don't they do amazing work? And a lot more
time-consuming than clay, I think.) If I wanted hand-made handles, I would
try to work out a trade with one of those guys. A person can only be
excellent at so many things in one life-time, after all. Much as I'd love
to, I just don't have time right now to learn basket-weaving. Hope you find
what you're looking for. :)
Cindy
> Hello all:
>
> I have recently become interested in fashioning my own teapot handles.
> For those of you that make your own, do you have any tips or
> suggestions? Also, could anyone recommend a book that might cover this?
>
> Thanks,
> Lori
> lleary@sccoast.net
> Pawleys Island, SC
> ...where the only tea we drink 'round here THIS time of year is ICED...
Elca Branman on fri 1 aug 97
Wisteria vines...dry them in autumn,and when ready to weave handle ,soak
them overnight so they are pliable again and weave them,braid them
bundle them or torture them in whatever way you do hanles..Natiurally you
have to have loops or lugs on the teapot....Elca..
Elca Branman
Branman Potters ,Stone Ridge, N.Y.
in the Hudson Valley
elcab1@juno.com
Tina on wed 10 sep 97
Hi all!!
I have a head full of new teapot that are slowly finding their way
to my ware shelves. I have seen several pots recently that have handles
that are made from some vine materal. I was wondering if any one out there
has ever made any of these handles. I have a back yard full of weedy vines
and Kudzo. It would be wonderful if I could use some of that. Before I
start experimenting I was hoping that someone has tried some of these and
could offer suggestions or opinions on what will work and what will not.
Thanks for any help.
Tina
In Greensboro, where I'm posting notes between thunderstorms!
Lori Leary on thu 11 sep 97
Tina,
A while back I wrote into Clayart with basically the same questions. I
received some nice responses, both privately and on the list.
Unfortunately, between a hard drive crash, a visit to mel-san-land in
Minnesota, and the relocation of my studio, I never wrote in to share
what I learned, nor did I say thanks to those who responded. Rude, rude
me..... Sigh....
*Anyway*
Since then, I have made some nice handles with dried wisteria branches.
I used thicker pieces which had curves and squiggles that fit hands
nicely. I carved out the areas to be wrapped around the lugs, leaving
plenty to turn back up onto the handle. After boiling the handles and
leaving them to soak, I curved the handle to fit the teapot, and secured
it with wire, string (whatever was handy). I then attached it to the
lugs and secured the lug wraps (what ARE those things called?) with
plenty of twist ties. After all was dry, it was easy to replace the
twist ties with whatever material complemented the pot and handle
(copper wire, raffia, string).
Tip: Make sure everything is well soaked, and bend s-l-o-w-l-y.
Another thing I have done....(thanks, Dannon) Take thin grapevine (I'd
bet kudzu would work) soak it thoroughly, and weave it back and forth
between the lugs to the thickness you want. Take extra vine and wrap it
around and around from one lug to the other. To prevent future cracking
of the handle, make sure the vine is really wet and pliable when you are
doing this.
There are lots of sources on the net for basketry books, catalogs, and
supplies.
Here are a few:
http://weavenet.com
http://csbh.mhv.net/~abeebe/basket.html
You can also find some of the clayart posts on teapot handles in the
archives:
http://www.reference.com
I have found it extremely satisfying to make my own handles. To me, it
is worth the extra time and effort.
And.... thanks to all of you that responded to my earlier post on the
subject.
Hope this helps,
Lori L.
lleary@sccoast.net
Pawleys Island, SC
....where the sea breeze coming in across the marsh is intoxicating.
marie elaine on fri 7 aug 98
I have been using English made bamboo handles available from Bailey's in
New York. But, am looking for other alternatives. (By the way, do you know
of any other supplier other than Bailey's?)
I perfer, however, making my own, but honestly don't know how. I have seen
handles made from copper wire, twine, driftwood, leather, etc., and, I
don't want to make pulled handles because I'm leary of the risks involved
in glazing and firing. My forms are really more decorative even though they
are functionally constructed.
I have considered the possibilty of using raw bamboo at least 1/2" in
diameter. I suspect that with gentle shaping during a soaking process could
give me the look that may be appropriate to the forms. What do you think?
I know this is a design problem that I will have to figure out for myself,
but I'd really appreciate any tips that you are willing to share in the
meantime. I have hestitated several times in posing this problem to you for
fear of looking like a total novice, but I really need to have some
experienced input. Help again!
Dannon Rhudy on sat 8 aug 98
> I perfer, however, making my own, ....
> don't want to make pulled handles because I'm leary of the risks
> I have considered the possibilty of using raw bamboo at least 1/2" in
> diameter. I suspect that with gentle shaping during a soaking process
could
> give me the look that may be appropriate to the forms. What do you think?
>
> I know this is a design problem ...
Pulled handles properly attached are excellent for teapots. However, if
you wish to have
handles attached by lugs, then there are a variety of ways to make them, as
you
noted above. It is unlikely that "soaking and gentle shaping" is going to
work with
bamboo, green or dry - bamboo is not easy to form. It does not like to
bend, at least
not in the sizes that will make a sturdy and attractive handle. If you
figure it out, let
us all know; enough bamboo grows wild here in Texas to supply all the
potters in
the known world...I believe that it is generally steamed to make it
"bendable"; so far
I've not gotten it to work without WAY too much time consumed..
If you make handles to attach with lugs: first, make sure the lugs are
sturdy enough
and well enough attached that they do not snap off - at least as big a
problem as a
pulled handle coming loose. Second: for ease of making the first few, try
a variety
of reed diameters. You can use reed in a number of sizes, combining until
you have
a handle that is visually and functionally attractive. Reed softens
quickly in water,
you can shape the ends that go through the lugs in the same way that the
bamboo/cane
ones that you purchase are shaped. A matt knife works fine for this.
Then, having
gotten a thickness that is suitable for your pot, you can use caning strips
to weave
or wrap the whole thing together. Both reed and caning are available at
some craft
stores, or you can look online under "basketry" for suppliers/catalogs of
all kinds of
supplies that can make interesting handles. Fine copper wire can also be
used as
a wrapping to attach handles - indeed, anything you can find that is
flexible enough
can be made to work...very fine spruce root, for instance, can be pulled
from the
ground and cleaned and used - it hardens as it dries. There are many such
materials
to be found, (long leaf pine needles, if you live where they grow)
but you can purchase an endless variety, too. For practice, attach a
couple of
"U" shaped fasteners to a piece of 2 x 4, try stuff. You'll make great
handles in
no time.
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
Kelley Webb Randel on sat 8 aug 98
Hey Marie,
I love odd objects as handles, pieces of rusty pipe, odd wire fixtures,
sticks. don't get stuck on any one thing. I make some out of wire, using
copper, with beads added that look fabulous. Are you needing more information
than that?
Looking at your bamboo handles, could you reconstruct one out of wire?
Personally I adore rusty junk and raffia.
You can also create sticks out of clay. Those are always interesting.
I am more into non functional pieces, as you may have noticed!
good luck!
Kelley Webb Randel
Earl Brunner on sat 8 aug 98
In a message dated 8/7/98 5:25:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, melanza@n-
jcenter.com writes:
<<
I have considered the possibility of using raw bamboo at least 1/2" in
diameter. I suspect that with gentle shaping during a soaking process could
give me the look that may be appropriate to the forms. What do you think?
>>
Just be careful and test out any organic "bent" handles before you invest a
lot of pottery into them. Tom Coleman told us once about some kind of branch
or root that he made handles from. It was kind of a rush job for a show, He
set it up and when he came back the next day, the handles had so much tension
in them as they dried that they snapped the lugs off of the teapots. Some of
those other materials can be done very nicely, Wires in particular can be bent
and twisted and some really nice things can happen.
Earl Brunner- sitting at his computer NOT throwing pots......
Sheilah Bliss on sat 8 aug 98
In a message dated 8/7/98 4:25:01 AM, you wrote:
<New York. But, am looking for other alternatives. (By the way, do you know
of any other supplier other than Bailey's?)>>
Hi Melanza -
Seattle Pottery Supply carries a pretty broad size assorment of bamboo and
cane handles:
Seattle Pottery Supply
35 S. Hanford
Seattle, WA 98134
(800) 522-1975 Ask for a catalog.
Sheilah Bliss
Cindy on sun 9 aug 98
Marie,
I use pulled handles on all my teapots, and I'm curious as to the risks in
glazing and firing? I haven't noticed any. I don't pull teapot handles from
the pot as I find this awkward. I attach them between the spout and lid,
and to the back top or base of the pot. I pull and shape them, cover the
ends to keep the attachments moist, wait until nearly leatherhard and able
to hold their shape reasonably well, then attach to the pots.
Mixed media involved in using non-clay handles can be extremely attractive.
I suggest you study some basket-making books for ideas. To use basket
materials in creating handles, you do need to soak them until they are
flexible. You might consider a cooperative arrangement with a local
leather-worker/basket maker/metal-smith/whatever, thus allowing you to
concentrate on clay.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels
Custer, SD
USA http://blackhills-info.com/a/cindys/menu.htm
----------
> From: marie elaine
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Teapot Handles
> Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 6:23 AM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have been using English made bamboo handles available from Bailey's in
> New York. But, am looking for other alternatives. (By the way, do you
know
> of any other supplier other than Bailey's?)
>
> I perfer, however, making my own, but honestly don't know how. I have
seen
> handles made from copper wire, twine, driftwood, leather, etc., and, I
> don't want to make pulled handles because I'm leary of the risks involved
> in glazing and firing. My forms are really more decorative even though
they
> are functionally constructed.
>
> I have considered the possibilty of using raw bamboo at least 1/2" in
> diameter. I suspect that with gentle shaping during a soaking process
could
> give me the look that may be appropriate to the forms. What do you think?
>
> I know this is a design problem that I will have to figure out for
myself,
> but I'd really appreciate any tips that you are willing to share in the
> meantime. I have hestitated several times in posing this problem to you
for
> fear of looking like a total novice, but I really need to have some
> experienced input. Help again!
bowen dickson on sun 9 aug 98
Friend D:
Great idea - attaching 'holders' to a 2 x 4 and then
experimentings with different materials, maybe even a good way to dry
'green' handles from local sources for later pots.
I'm concerned that we've 'given-up' control of the
finished pot to what someone, somewhere thinks is a 'suitable size'
(granted, they are well made[enjoyed Mel's note] but, should we not be
looking at what's available locally, or, what we can make ourselves, or
what we can commission another local artisan/craftsperson to make for us,
[I'm lucky, there are several basket makers in my region, and they like to
barter, but , I always include it on my IRS P&L, {and, I never inhaled
either}].
Besides spruce root, have you found any other local/native
plants that work for you, any special techniques...?
My experience with bamboo ; as you said, it's not warm water
but 'heat' that makes bamboo pliable - hold the piece of stalk next to the
chimney of your wood stove, only takes a few seconds and you can bend it
to that diameter...let it cool and it's 'fixed'. Also works on split
pieces of larger bamboo.
For those without woodstoves, try holding the bamboo over
the burner ofd your kitchen range, but pay attention, 'cause, once it's
there, it's there'
Bowen Dickson/Heron's Marsh Pottery
Kingston, Washington
Robyn L Putz on sun 9 aug 98
Dear Marie:
I love making whimsical teapots and have found that my forms do not always
match pre-made handles. After a few trips to the crafts store, I came up with
a good alternative that works well for me. Purchase floral wire, the
heavyweight type that is wrapped. Form the handle to the size and pitch you
like and cut to fit with a little extra length to bend up through the teapot's
lugs. I then use lengths of rafia and starting at the lug, weave over the
floral wire using a blanket stitch (similar to that in embroidery). When
finished, I weave the ends in and cut close to the handle so they disappear.
I have made several handles in this manner and like the flexibility in size.
Hope this gives you some ideas for alternatives,
Robyn
Elca Branman on mon 10 aug 98
wisteria vines make great handles..cut them green,let them dry a coupla
months,soak before weaving.
Elca ..at home in Sarasota,Florida
_____________________________________________________________________
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Dannon Rhudy on mon 10 aug 98
> Subject: Re: Teapot Handles
....attaching 'holders' to a 2 x 4 and then
> experimentings with different materials, maybe even a good way to dry
> 'green' handles
It's an excellent way to dry green materials after forming - and as someone
else noted, when attaching green stuff directly to lugs, there is always
the possibility that the lugs will snap off with the inevitable forces of
the
drying wood/materials.
.....commission another local artisan/craftsperson to make...
I like this, myself; I make handles under duress and only because
very often premades are just the wrong circumference; look undersized
even if they function. But finding someone to make handles is not so
easy...
though I know a basketmaker who is beginning to make handles, and says
she will make special orders, presently. I'll let y'all know...
> ... Besides spruce root, have you found any other
local/native
> plants...
Actually tried the spruce root while I was in Maine, awash in spruces as it
is.
Here, have used several things including wood from Bois D'Arc tree
(pronounced
Bo Dark, accent on the "Bo", locally). Soften it in a 50/50 mix
ammonia/water overnight.
Might work for other woods, too, but smells godawful until the ammonia
volatizes out. Lots
of vines work, don't choose poisonous varieties.
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
Lori Leary on tue 11 aug 98
I am sending a previous posting about teapot handles I wrote last year.
Hope you find it useful,
Lori L.
lleary@sccoast.net
Pawleys Island, SC
> Since then, I have made some nice handles with dried wisteria
branches. I used thicker pieces which had curves and squiggles
that fit hands nicely. I carved out the areas to be wrapped around
the lugs, leaving plenty to turn back up onto the handle. After
boiling the handles and leaving them to soak, I curved the handle
to fit the teapot, and secured it with wire, string (whatever was
handy). I then attached it to the lugs and secured the lug wraps
(what ARE those things called?) with plenty of twist ties. After all
was dry, it was easy to replace the twist ties with whatever material
complemented the pot and handle (copper wire, raffia, string).
Tip: Make sure everything is well soaked, and bend s-l-o-w-l-y.
Another thing I have done....(thanks, Dannon) Take thin grapevine
(I'd bet kudzu would work) soak it thoroughly, and weave it back
and forth between the lugs to the thickness you want. Take extra
vine and wrap it around and around from one lug to the other. To
prevent future cracking of the handle, make sure the vine is really
wet and pliable when you are doing this.
There are lots of sources on the net for basketry books, catalogs,
and supplies.
Here are a few:
http://weavenet.com
http://csbh.mhv.net/~abeebe/basket.html
You can also find some of the clayart posts on teapot handles in
the
archives:
http://www.reference.com
I have found it extremely satisfying to make my own handles. To
me, it is worth the extra time and effort.
Pamela & Evan Kohler-Camp on thu 13 aug 98
(Hi Marie Elaine!) Has any Clayarter out there used one of the south's
greatest natural resources, Kudzu, for handles? There is no lack of raw
material on the sides of the rural roads. How has it worked best for
you? Do you soak it? How do you bind it together so you don't lose your
piece when picking it up full of liquid?
Just curious!
Pam
Bonnie Staffel on thu 23 nov 00
Dear Clayarters,
For the neophytes attempting to make their own handles over the top of the
teapot, might I suggest using a balloon for a support while the handle is
firming up. The balloon sits in the opening without the lid. In fact,
balloons have come in handy for a number of applications where I need soft
support for a slab, coil or whatever need comes to mind.
Regards, Bonnie Staffel
Veena Raghavan on thu 23 nov 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>Dear Clayarters,
For the neophytes attempting to make their own handles over the top of the
teapot, might I suggest using a balloon for a support while the handle is
firming up. The balloon sits in the opening without the lid. In fact,
balloons have come in handy for a number of applications where I need soft
support for a slab, coil or whatever need comes to mind.
<
Bonnie,
What a great idea! I generally use crushed up drycleaning plastic
to support my overhead handles, but this sounds much better. I have used
balloons as forms for handbuilding, but this is great. However, when you do
not have a balloon on hand, crushed, balled up drycleaning plastic helps.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Gayle Bair on thu 23 nov 00
Hi Bonnie,
Another use for balloons is blowing them up inside a bisqued
teapot then pouring or dipping glaze. I put a piece of tape
over the spout hole or hold a finger over it. I lift
the pot by the knot in the balloon. Works great for me.
I haven't tried it with a very large or heavy teapot so
use your judgment.
When the glaze is dry I gently release the air from the balloon
with a small cut near the knot.
Gayle Bair- Celebrating with a Thanksgiving feast in about 1 hour.
Dear Clayarters,
For the neophytes attempting to make their own handles over the top of the
teapot, might I suggest using a balloon for a support while the handle is
firming up. The balloon sits in the opening without the lid. In fact,
balloons have come in handy for a number of applications where I need soft
support for a slab, coil or whatever need comes to mind.
Regards, Bonnie Staffel
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Jean Todd on sat 25 nov 00
I have always found ballons hard to handle, and hard to know when to
remove. I use strips of foam plastic, he sort used in upholstry
cushions. I get offcuts about 10-16" by about 2' wide and about 1-2"
thick. Bend these from inside the pot, up and over and down inside
the pot in an inverted U. Easy to remove and the handle never breaks
as it shrinks.
> For the neophytes attempting to make their own handles over the top of
> the teapot, might I suggest using a balloon for a support while the
> handle is firming up. The balloon sits in the opening without the
> lid. In fact, balloons have come in handy for a number of
> applications where I need soft support for a slab, coil or whatever
> need comes to mind. <
>
> Bonnie,
> What a great idea! I generally use crushed up drycleaning
> plastic
> to support my overhead handles, but this sounds much better. I have
> used balloons as forms for handbuilding, but this is great. However,
> when you do not have a balloon on hand, crushed, balled up drycleaning
> plastic helps.
> Veena
>
> Veena Raghavan
> 75124.2520@compuserve.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Jean from Cowra, NSW
"Lang may your lum reek"
mallyree@ix.net.au
Jim & Nancy on sat 6 sep 03
Hello list, I am a new user. Full time lawyer weekend potter with a =
home studio in DC metro area. Miss the comraderie of a group studio, =
but time demands led to solitude in clay department. Hoped this list =
could provide opportunity for collaboration of sorts. =20
Have been making teapots for a while now and love them. Would like to =
experiment with making more interesting, unique cane handles, but don't =
know the first thing about it. Have looked at several basket weaving =
supply sites, but haven't dipped a toe in yet. Looked on old archives =
of clayart and saw a couple exchanges about using commercially =
availalble handles as a base for cane add ons, but no real details. =
Hence my questions:
1. Any good books on this subject (or including a chapter on it?)
2. Anyone who does workshops on this?
3. Any general suggestions for taking a stab? =20
Any thoughts much appreciated.
A small contribution on a topic that seems to be of interest to others =
on the list: Something I stumbled on (can't remember where) that makes =
an interesting woodish finish at c10 in my electric kiln, for those =
interested: 1/2 kaolin and 1/2 baking soda on soldate 60. Quite nice, =
simple, golden brown. Basic, nothing fancy. Might also work at cone 6, =
I can't remember. =20
Nancy
John Anthony on sat 6 sep 03
Hi Nancy-
There was an article by Kana Wilson in the Nov/Dec 2000 Clay Times
about
cane handles. It featured detailed info on how several potters,
including Sheila Clennell,
make their cane handles. Perhaps you could get the back issue- it would
be a good starting point,
I think.
John Anthony
http://www.redhillpottery.com
Liz Willoughby on sat 6 sep 03
Hello Nancy,
>Go to http://www.sourcherrypottery.com , Tony and Sheila Clennell's
>web-page, Sheila has a video on making cane handles for teapots. I
>believe that you can order it from there. Or e-mail them at
clennell@vaxxine.com.
Good luck with it,
Meticky Liz from Grafton
>
>Have been making teapots for a while now and love them. Would like
>to experiment with making more interesting, unique cane handles, but
>don't know the first thing about it. Have looked at several basket
>weaving supply sites, but haven't dipped a toe in yet. Looked on
>old archives of clayart and saw a couple exchanges about using
>commercially availalble handles as a base for cane add ons, but no
>real details. Hence my questions:
>
> 1. Any good books on this subject (or including a chapter on it?)
> 2. Anyone who does workshops on this?
> 3. Any general suggestions for taking a stab?
>
>Any thoughts much appreciated.
--
Liz Willoughby
RR #1
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
Grafton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 2G0
905-349-3130
lizwill@phc.igs.net
Earl Brunner on sat 6 sep 03
Contact Tony or Sheila, they have a video out on making handles that
people have been quite positive about. Sheila makes great handles for
Tony's pots.
Tony and Sheila Clennell
Sour Cherry Pottery
4545 King St.
Beamsville, On.
Canada L0R 1B1
phone: 905-563-9382
fax: 905-563-9383
E-mail: clennell@sourcherrypottery.com
Have been making teapots for a while now and love them. Would like to
experiment with making more interesting, unique cane handles, but don't
know the first thing about it. Have looked at several basket weaving
supply sites, but haven't dipped a toe in yet. Looked on old archives
of clayart and saw a couple exchanges about using commercially
availalble handles as a base for cane add ons, but no real details.
Hence my questions:
1. Any good books on this subject (or including a chapter on it?)
2. Anyone who does workshops on this?
3. Any general suggestions for taking a stab?
Nancy
Jim & Nancy on sat 6 sep 03
Thanks to you and the other folks who have responded. I have ordered the
video (someone even sent me the link to it on the baily site!) and await its
arrival with great anticipation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "L. P. Skeen"
To: "Clayart"
Cc:
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: teapot handles
> Hey Nancy, you want the videotape on this very subject done up by none
other
> than our beloved Tony and Shelia Clennell up in Canada. You can reach
them
> at clennell@vaxxine.com
>
> L
> ----- Original Message ----- Have been making teapots for a while now and
> love them. Would like to experiment with making more interesting, unique
> cane handles,
> 1. Any good books on this subject (or including a chapter on it?)
> 2. Anyone who does workshops on this?
> 3. Any general suggestions for taking a stab?
>
>
L. P. Skeen on sat 6 sep 03
Hey Nancy, you want the videotape on this very subject done up by none other
than our beloved Tony and Shelia Clennell up in Canada. You can reach them
at clennell@vaxxine.com
L
----- Original Message ----- Have been making teapots for a while now and
love them. Would like to experiment with making more interesting, unique
cane handles,
1. Any good books on this subject (or including a chapter on it?)
2. Anyone who does workshops on this?
3. Any general suggestions for taking a stab?
Brad Sondahl on tue 22 nov 11
I appreciated Hank Murrow's outlining the Hamada technique. It's quite
similar to the one I developed, which has distinct advantages over the
narrow thrown spouts (no propensity to twist in firing, and final drip not
running down the side of the pot). I cut a freshly thrown small bowl shape
in half with a needle tool, undercut it with a wire, and do the waffle cone
thing Hank alluded to to make a spout shape. At that point I will also
accentuate the pouring end so there is a bit hanging downward to facilitate
the last drip going into the cup. Each of the two halves of the bowl will
make a spout. The spouts are thrown at the same time as the teapot body,
and assembled when leather hard. The spout will be cut with a knife at the
base at an angle so as to make it angle upward on the teapot.
Here's a link to the photo: http://www.sondahl.com/pots/mini-teapot.jpg
Brad Sondahl
http://www.sondahl.com
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