Autumn Downey on tue 9 sep 97
I have been trying to make functional teapots lately and they seem to be
getting worse rather than better. Now instead of merely dripping a bit, the
spouts are causing great splooshes and rude noises that probably shouldn't
be part of anyones high tea.
I suspect these spouts (actually for a coffee server) are too high up or too
small or both. Since the pot is tall and the sides are fairly straight, the
problem seems that the holes emerge out of the liquid once the pour is half
done and then the hiccupping starts.
Suggestions for a good pour? Should belly of spout be larger? lower
positioning? angles? do bends and curves in spout help if it is longer?
Number and size of holes? Thoughts on avoiding the unwinding problem, or
gauging how to cut the end? and yes, drips too. Have been trying to keep
edge fairly sharp and upwardly tilted, but they do drip.
There are two of us having "fun" with spouts, so any replies will be doubly
appreciated.
Autumn Downey
downeya@internorth.com
Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Dannon Rhudy on wed 10 sep 97
There was an article sometime last year (or so) in either CM or
Clay Times which addressed the physics/mechanics of water flow and
teapot spouts. Worth looking up and reading.
Dannon Rhudy
potter@koyote.com
----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
I have been trying to make functional teapots lately and they seem
to be
getting worse rather than better. Now instead of merely dripping
a bit, the
spouts are causing great splooshes and rude noises that probably
shouldn't
be part of anyones high tea.
I suspect these spouts (actually for a coffee server) are too high
up or too
small or both. Since the pot is tall and the sides are fairly
straight, the
problem seems that the holes emerge out of the liquid once the
pour is half
done and then the hiccupping starts.
Suggestions for a good pour? Should belly of spout be larger?
lower
positioning? angles? do bends and curves in spout help if it is
longer?
Number and size of holes? Thoughts on avoiding the unwinding
problem, or
gauging how to cut the end? and yes, drips too. Have been trying
to keep
edge fairly sharp and upwardly tilted, but they do drip.
There are two of us having "fun" with spouts, so any replies will
be doubly
appreciated.
Autumn Downey
downeya@internorth.com
Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Cindy on wed 10 sep 97
Autumn,
I'm not as experienced a spout-maker as some on the list, but here are a
few of my theories, for what they're worth . . .
I like the lip of my spouts to turn downward as much as possible. Yes, it
is fashionable to have straightly tapered spouts with no turnings at the
ends. That's fine if the teapot is intended for fashion. I would be most
pleased if someone could show me a way to make such a spout drip-free,
because I, too, like their appearance. The lip of the spout should be as
thin as can be considered reasonable without rendering it overly fragile.
Do not attach the spout until it is well into the leather-hard stage. This
will help some of the unwinding problem. It depends on your own
spouts/throwing techniques/thickness of the clay/etc., but when I choose to
angle-cut the ends of my spouts, I have the long tip pointed at around 4-5
o'clock. This seems most likely to produce a spout ultimately pointed in
the proper direction. Uniform thickness of the spout walls helps, too, I
believe.
I place the spout wherever I feel it needs to be to enhance the design of
the pot. Keep in mind that if you place it too low, it may be clogged by
bulk tea or by tea bags. The end of the spout, obviously, must be as high
or a little higher than the intended tea level in the pot.
Before I cut the holes in the teapot walls to attach my spouts, I use a
tool I learned how to make from a salt potter in MN. Unfortunately, I can't
remember his name, but I met him while attending Stephen Jepson's pottery
school in FL. and was most impressed. The tool consists of a 12" or so
piece of (approx.) 1/2"x1" trim with a "bump" glued to one end. Kind of
like a ball peen hammer. I made my "bump" from a 1" length of 1" dowel.
Before cutting the dowel, I used a power sander to round off the end (the
ball peen). I then cut this end off and glued it to the end of my trim
strip. You use the hammer to gently pound a round indentation into the side
of the pot where you will attach the spout. The indentation should cover
the entire attachment area, and look somewhat like a crater. It will take
multiple taps with the hammer tool to accomplish this. The process thins
the wall where the strainer holes will be cut, increases the surface area
through which the tea will flow, and increases the pressure of the emerging
liquid.
Cut many holes close together. I use an old drill bit--not broken--just
old. When you glaze the pot, use an air compressor to clear the holes, or,
if you don't have an air compressor, blow the holes open. Don't eat any of
that glaze! (In this case, just take care to glaze the end of the spout
*after* you've cleared those strainer holes by blowing on the spout tip.)
Hope this helps some,
Cindy
Clayphil on wed 10 sep 97
Well, you have all the main issues, I think, re spouts that pour nicely.
The tea needs to vortex down the spout so volumn is important. Too little
as well as to much are both problems. And bends and curves play a role.
An air hole in the lid can help.
Clay has a memory, one can account for unwinding by trimming the spout at
an slight angle. (Each potter has to find their own angle) The spout edge
has to cut the stream to prevent lots of drips I have always felt that one
drip is, well, nice for, handmade.
Mainly, you just have to practice/experiment/see what works for you and
what doesn't. But you already understand the mechanics of the problem and
that a functional pot that does't function right will not be used, so 3/4
of the problem is solved! Good Luck, Phil in Chicago.
>Suggestions for a good pour? Should belly of spout be larger? lower
>positioning? angles? do bends and curves in spout help if it is longer?
>Number and size of holes? Thoughts on avoiding the unwinding problem, or
>gauging how to cut the end? and yes, drips too. Have been trying to keep
>edge fairly sharp and upwardly tilted, but they do drip.
>
>There are two of us having "fun" with spouts, so any replies will be doubly
>appreciated.
>
>
Andrew & Laura Conley on wed 10 sep 97
A comment I have heard, and tried, on the unwinding problem is:
if you are facing the spout directly and you cut the spout to face you,
call this 6 o'clock, it will twist to not be straight, so instead cut
the spout to 5 o'clock and it will twist into the straight position. I
don't know if that was comprehensible - cut the spout 1/12 (30 degrees)
of a circle counter clockwise and it will rotate to the right spot.
Imagining a clock face allows the potter to judge the angle easily.
Personally, I think that this is a general guide - the width of the
spout seems to be relevant - when they are very narrow perhaps they
twist more?????
Laura (in wet, grey Detroit but soon to be in sunny Colorado)
Autumn Downey wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have been trying to make functional teapots lately and they seem to be
> getting worse rather than better. Now instead of merely dripping a bit, the
> spouts are causing great splooshes and rude noises that probably shouldn't
> be part of anyones high tea.
>
> I suspect these spouts (actually for a coffee server) are too high up or too
> small or both. Since the pot is tall and the sides are fairly straight, the
> problem seems that the holes emerge out of the liquid once the pour is half
> done and then the hiccupping starts.
>
> Suggestions for a good pour? Should belly of spout be larger? lower
> positioning? angles? do bends and curves in spout help if it is longer?
> Number and size of holes? Thoughts on avoiding the unwinding problem, or
> gauging how to cut the end? and yes, drips too. Have been trying to keep
> edge fairly sharp and upwardly tilted, but they do drip.
>
> There are two of us having "fun" with spouts, so any replies will be doubly
> appreciated.
>
> Autumn Downey
> downeya@internorth.com
> Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Liz Willoughby on thu 11 sep 97
>Hello Autumn in Yellowknife,
Glad you are trying to make teapots. It's a wonderful form to learn all
kinds of things about. This form has it all.
If you want to make it easier on yourself, make the main form curved with a
slight belly. Throw the spout so it is wider at the attachment end, and a
flowing curve to the tip, going 'in'at the tip instead of out. Make it
long enough so the tea can flow up and out, the tip being level with the
top of the teapot. When throwing the spout smooth out the throwing rings
with a bamboo skewer. Define where you want the spout on the main form.
Put lots of holes there, the more the better it will pour.(I'm
old-fashioned here, I still like teapots with holes for collecting tea
leaves). Cut the base of the spout to the shape you want, score main body
and spout with vinegar, slip, and attach. Let set up a bit, THEN, with the
spout facing you, trim the end of the spout at an angle, spout facing you,
left side down. ( Your clay body, temp. you fire to, speed of throwing will
determine how much your spout will twist.) When it has set up a bit more,
take your little finger (wet) and placing it inside the spout, pull it out
and down. Let set up, and pat the end gently slightly down. Smooth off
with a sponge. This treatment of a spout works for me for a fairly dripless
spout.
Had an article about teapots in the Spring issue of CONTACT magazine. If
you can't find it up there, let me know and I'll e-mail you directly with
the how-to section. Best of luck, Liz in eastern ontario, where autumn has
come, but I bet it's cooler where you are.
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have been trying to make functional teapots lately and they seem to be
>getting worse rather than better. Now instead of merely dripping a bit, the
>spouts are causing great splooshes and rude noises that probably shouldn't
>be part of anyones high tea.
>
>I suspect these spouts (actually for a coffee server) are too high up or too
>small or both. Since the pot is tall and the sides are fairly straight, the
>problem seems that the holes emerge out of the liquid once the pour is half
>done and then the hiccupping starts.
>
>Suggestions for a good pour? Should belly of spout be larger? lower
>positioning? angles? do bends and curves in spout help if it is longer?
>Number and size of holes? Thoughts on avoiding the unwinding problem, or
>gauging how to cut the end? and yes, drips too. Have been trying to keep
>edge fairly sharp and upwardly tilted, but they do drip.
>
>There are two of us having "fun" with spouts, so any replies will be doubly
>appreciated.
>
>Autumn Downey
>downeya@internorth.com
>Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Liz Willoughby
R.R. 1
Grafton, Ontario
K0K 2G0
e-mail lizwill@cyberion.ca
Cat Jarosz on sun 24 sep 00
Hi Cindy and other spout lovers... here is a spout I learned in a steven
hill workshop and from another great potter that teaches at ms state ....
use a sawed off pool stick and WD - 40 and broken kiln shelf and blow
torch..... spray the pool stick with the wd 40 so the clay doesnt stick
to it ... next roll out a hunk o clay into a thick tappered worm ,,, I
usually stick a pencil down the middle to help center it before I use the
pool stick , next stick the pool stick down ... turn and pull as quickly
as possible keep turning and pulling turning and pulling.... when you
got it to the length you want you take the blow torch and torch it just
till its self supporting ... thats something that you'll have to learn
by doing ... too much and you cant form it too little and it will
collapse.... any how the next step is the broken kiln shelf ....
take the pool stick out or any other tapered dowel and form the S
spout or any other style ... there are lots of finger marks you can do
to the spout or you can use a sureform tool to thin it out etc ... good
luck cat jarosz
Scott Paulding on fri 16 jul 04
Hello,
I'm still realtively new to the list. My name is Scott Paulding. I make pots in
Rochester, NY. I'm curious if anybody has tips on teapot spouts?
Is a perfect spout (that doesn't drip, dribble, glug, etc) possible? How?
Thanks,
-scott
=====
"I should have been a plumber."
-Albert Einstein
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Antoinette Badenhorst on fri 16 jul 04
Hi Scott.
Here are a few things that I can suggest and I am going to do that by
suggestion. Lift your one hand up so that your palm faces upwards.
Stretch your fingers as far forward as you can and flex (I hope I use
the right word) your hand from the sides. Your hand almost form a little
oval bowl. Look at the profile of your hand in this position. If you
would pick up water in your hand in this way you would see that if you
tilt your hand forward, it would almost automatically flow off the tip
of your fingers. Note that there is a little gathering area in the palm
of your hand and then a long area between your fingers where the liquid
can stream off your hand. I used this demonstration to say that you
need to prepare the flow of the spout in a way that it wants to flow
towards the tapered edge of the spout and it should be long enough to
"organize" itself in the spout. Once you've done that, you need to make
sure that the end of the spout leads the liquid right where you want it
to land, so your spout tip should point in the direction of the imagined
flow.
Taper the end of the spout sharp enough to be able to cut a drop off,
but thick enough to prevent it from chipping easily. (Remember to keep
the shape "flexed"), It is more difficult to find a midway to taper the
edge, but I would say that if you can glaze it and make the glaze stay
on there, it is not too thin.
Remember that your spout should be high enough to allow you to fill the
whole teapot with liquid, so your positioning is important and the
height of the spout tip should be higher than the rim of your teapot.
Hope I did not make it too complicated.
Regards.
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS
38866
662 869 1651
Antoinette. Badenhorst.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Scott
Paulding
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 6:30 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: teapot spouts
Hello,
I'm still realtively new to the list. My name is Scott Paulding. I make
pots in
Rochester, NY. I'm curious if anybody has tips on teapot spouts?
Is a perfect spout (that doesn't drip, dribble, glug, etc) possible?
How?
Thanks,
-scott
=====
"I should have been a plumber."
-Albert Einstein
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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________________________________________________________________________
______
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Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
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sdr on fri 16 jul 04
Scott said:
..... if anybody has tips on teapot spouts?
> ......Is a perfect spout (that doesn't drip, dribble, glug, etc) possible?
.....
Of course spouts that don't drip, etc., are possible.
It is a matter of practice and experience making them,
and noticing what you did right on those that don't
drip or glug. You'll get lots of advice on this matter,
no doubt. Here's mine:
Make the spout a smooth transition from base to
tip, gradually narrowing. Don't widen the spout at
the pouring end - that makes for gurgles, glugs, and
an unattractive pour. Spouts should be thin at the
pouring tip, with an edge that does NOT curl under
where it pours out. The liquid will generally follow the
curve of the lip, and run right down the outside of the
spout. Some people turn their spouts DOWN at the
top, to prevent dripping. Some turn them UP, same
reason. Go and look at some commercial teapots,
and note carefully how they are designed (though in
fact some of them drip, most don't). You're in
Rochester? Visit Richard Aerni's studio, also in
Rochester, and look
at his teapots. Not only are they gorgeous ( I just
was looking at some recent ones)- they don't drip,
and he has an unusual (i.e. not classic) spout form.
You can look in lots of books, but you can't know
from that whether those pots drip.
I think practice is your true solution, but look at
pots that don't drip, and try lots of spouts until
you find what works. You can test, you know,
after bisquing. If it drips/glugs then, it still will
after glazing. At bisque you probably can't fix
one that glugs, but you can do some artful sanding
on ones that might drip, and see if you can stop it
before your glaze fire.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Mary K on fri 16 jul 04
Scott,
I was taught by a professor in NY that when making spouts, one must be mindful that after firing they are in the same "true" on the pot as before firing. To achieve this you must place it on the pot slightly bearing over clockwise, as the coil (thrown spouts) wants to "uncoil" in that position when firing. It is a matter of practice and observation to get the correction just right. This at least addresses one aspect of dripless spouts, and I have found success using this theory. Comments? (hmmmm, have I got that backwards?) Mary K.......Fire Dance
sdr wrote:
Scott said:
..... if anybody has tips on teapot spouts?
> ......Is a perfect spout (that doesn't drip, dribble, glug, etc) possible?
.....
Of course spouts that don't drip, etc., are possible.
It is a matter of practice and experience making them,
and noticing what you did right on those that don't
drip or glug. You'll get lots of advice on this matter,
no doubt. Here's mine:
Make the spout a smooth transition from base to
tip, gradually narrowing. Don't widen the spout at
the pouring end - that makes for gurgles, glugs, and
an unattractive pour. Spouts should be thin at the
pouring tip, with an edge that does NOT curl under
where it pours out. The liquid will generally follow the
curve of the lip, and run right down the outside of the
spout. Some people turn their spouts DOWN at the
top, to prevent dripping. Some turn them UP, same
reason. Go and look at some commercial teapots,
and note carefully how they are designed (though in
fact some of them drip, most don't). You're in
Rochester? Visit Richard Aerni's studio, also in
Rochester, and look
at his teapots. Not only are they gorgeous ( I just
was looking at some recent ones)- they don't drip,
and he has an unusual (i.e. not classic) spout form.
You can look in lots of books, but you can't know
from that whether those pots drip.
I think practice is your true solution, but look at
pots that don't drip, and try lots of spouts until
you find what works. You can test, you know,
after bisquing. If it drips/glugs then, it still will
after glazing. At bisque you probably can't fix
one that glugs, but you can do some artful sanding
on ones that might drip, and see if you can stop it
before your glaze fire.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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claybair on fri 16 jul 04
Some additional experience/tips:
1. A sharp edge on the spout prevents dripping.
2. After throwing the shape I want I compress the spout
with a metal rib outside and something smooth from the
inside. This removes the finger generated grooves.
After I tried this I noticed my spouts no longer
torque in firing.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Mary K
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 8:24 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: teapot spouts
Scott,
I was taught by a professor in NY that when making spouts, one must be
mindful that after firing they are in the same "true" on the pot as before
firing. To achieve this you must place it on the pot slightly bearing over
clockwise, as the coil (thrown spouts) wants to "uncoil" in that position
when firing. It is a matter of practice and observation to get the
correction just right. This at least addresses one aspect of dripless
spouts, and I have found success using this theory. Comments? (hmmmm, have
I got that backwards?) Mary K.......Fire Dance
sdr wrote:
Scott said:
..... if anybody has tips on teapot spouts?
> ......Is a perfect spout (that doesn't drip, dribble, glug, etc) possible?
.....
Of course spouts that don't drip, etc., are possible.
It is a matter of practice and experience making them,
and noticing what you did right on those that don't
drip or glug. You'll get lots of advice on this matter,
no doubt. Here's mine:
Make the spout a smooth transition from base to
tip, gradually narrowing. Don't widen the spout at
the pouring end - that makes for gurgles, glugs, and
an unattractive pour. Spouts should be thin at the
pouring tip, with an edge that does NOT curl under
where it pours out. The liquid will generally follow the
curve of the lip, and run right down the outside of the
spout. Some people turn their spouts DOWN at the
top, to prevent dripping. Some turn them UP, same
reason. Go and look at some commercial teapots,
and note carefully how they are designed (though in
fact some of them drip, most don't). You're in
Rochester? Visit Richard Aerni's studio, also in
Rochester, and look
at his teapots. Not only are they gorgeous ( I just
was looking at some recent ones)- they don't drip,
and he has an unusual (i.e. not classic) spout form.
You can look in lots of books, but you can't know
from that whether those pots drip.
I think practice is your true solution, but look at
pots that don't drip, and try lots of spouts until
you find what works. You can test, you know,
after bisquing. If it drips/glugs then, it still will
after glazing. At bisque you probably can't fix
one that glugs, but you can do some artful sanding
on ones that might drip, and see if you can stop it
before your glaze fire.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Antoinette Badenhorst on sun 18 jul 04
Gayle you touches a very important point. I wonder if mine does not
uncoil simply because I am in the habit of going very slowly over it
with my fingers during the throwing process and again after it is
made.(compress) I do that in general with my porcelain, but never
thought about it intentionally inside a spout. The fact that you remove
the groves also helps to prepare the way for a smooth flow of the
liquid.
I prefer to make a strainer, for sentiment sake, but boy, can you
believe it....I forgot to open up the glazed holes at least 3 times this
year. I can kick myself if I do that! I start wondering if that is worth
my sentiment. Does anyone have advice for my rotten brain?
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS
38866
662 869 1651
www.clayandcanvas.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of claybair
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 1:15 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: teapot spouts
Some additional experience/tips:
1. A sharp edge on the spout prevents dripping.
2. After throwing the shape I want I compress the spout
with a metal rib outside and something smooth from the
inside. This removes the finger generated grooves.
After I tried this I noticed my spouts no longer
torque in firing.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Mary K
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 8:24 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: teapot spouts
Scott,
I was taught by a professor in NY that when making spouts, one must be
mindful that after firing they are in the same "true" on the pot as
before
firing. To achieve this you must place it on the pot slightly bearing
over
clockwise, as the coil (thrown spouts) wants to "uncoil" in that
position
when firing. It is a matter of practice and observation to get the
correction just right. This at least addresses one aspect of dripless
spouts, and I have found success using this theory. Comments? (hmmmm,
have
I got that backwards?) Mary K.......Fire Dance
sdr wrote:
Scott said:
..... if anybody has tips on teapot spouts?
> ......Is a perfect spout (that doesn't drip, dribble, glug, etc)
possible?
.....
Of course spouts that don't drip, etc., are possible.
It is a matter of practice and experience making them,
and noticing what you did right on those that don't
drip or glug. You'll get lots of advice on this matter,
no doubt. Here's mine:
Make the spout a smooth transition from base to
tip, gradually narrowing. Don't widen the spout at
the pouring end - that makes for gurgles, glugs, and
an unattractive pour. Spouts should be thin at the
pouring tip, with an edge that does NOT curl under
where it pours out. The liquid will generally follow the
curve of the lip, and run right down the outside of the
spout. Some people turn their spouts DOWN at the
top, to prevent dripping. Some turn them UP, same
reason. Go and look at some commercial teapots,
and note carefully how they are designed (though in
fact some of them drip, most don't). You're in
Rochester? Visit Richard Aerni's studio, also in
Rochester, and look
at his teapots. Not only are they gorgeous ( I just
was looking at some recent ones)- they don't drip,
and he has an unusual (i.e. not classic) spout form.
You can look in lots of books, but you can't know
from that whether those pots drip.
I think practice is your true solution, but look at
pots that don't drip, and try lots of spouts until
you find what works. You can test, you know,
after bisquing. If it drips/glugs then, it still will
after glazing. At bisque you probably can't fix
one that glugs, but you can do some artful sanding
on ones that might drip, and see if you can stop it
before your glaze fire.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
claybair on mon 19 jul 04
Hi Antoinette,
I hope my spout suggestion works for you.
Now regarding RBS (Rotten Brain Syndrome).
I have a few suggestions.....
Get sleep .... DAISNAID (Do As I Say Not As I Do)!
Don't work exhausted or real late at night...DAISNAID!
Make a checklist of steps for your teapots...... DAISNAID!
I gave up on the strainer though I love function and the look.
Perhaps I'll make some with strainers in my new teapot series.
Gayle Bair- who worked real late hours
& got 3 hours sleep before a show last weekend.
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Antoinette Badenhorst
Gayle you touches a very important point. I wonder if mine does not
uncoil simply because I am in the habit of going very slowly over it
with my fingers during the throwing process and again after it is
made.(compress) I do that in general with my porcelain, but never
thought about it intentionally inside a spout. The fact that you remove
the groves also helps to prepare the way for a smooth flow of the
liquid.
I prefer to make a strainer, for sentiment sake, but boy, can you
believe it....I forgot to open up the glazed holes at least 3 times this
year. I can kick myself if I do that! I start wondering if that is worth
my sentiment. Does anyone have advice for my rotten brain?
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS
38866
662 869 1651
www.clayandcanvas.com
-----Original Message-----
From: claybair
Some additional experience/tips:
1. A sharp edge on the spout prevents dripping.
2. After throwing the shape I want I compress the spout
with a metal rib outside and something smooth from the
inside. This removes the finger generated grooves.
After I tried this I noticed my spouts no longer
torque in firing.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
Scott Paulding on wed 25 aug 04
Hello All,
I wanted to thnks everyone again for their help w/ teapot spouts. I've
incorporated a lot of the sugestions, and I have a teapot with the best pour
that I've seen in a while -- well, until it gets to that last 1/4 cup of tea,
then it glugs out, and makes a very drippy mess.
My theory is that there's not enough weight behind the remaining tea to force
it out in a nice stream at that point. I understand the principles of flow such
that when under pressure (caused by gravity), and forced through an opening
that is funnel shaped (teapot spout), the liquid will have to flow faster in
order to make it through the constantly smaller opening. Because of gravity, it
is the weight of the tea is the force that moves it through the spout. So it
makes sense that there's just not enough weight to move the tea through the
spout and have it come out in a nice stream.
The problem is that if I make the end of the spout any narrower, the tea will
all shoot out in a very long stream and over shoot the cup, thereby making a
very large mess :) Any suggestions?
Thanks again!
-scott (rochester, ny)
p.s. I've started handbuiding spouts from a template. No throw lines or torque
(spout untwisting as it fires) to worry about, and they fit better with my pots
-- they seem to have more personality.
=====
"I should have been a plumber."
-Albert Einstein
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out!
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Patricia Sheriff on mon 25 apr 05
Can anyone tell me how
to use those wooden spout makers such as those in the new Axner catalog? I
bought one some time ago, but have never figured out how to use it. I saw
someone at a workshop make a long skinny spout with a cut off pool cue but I`ve
forgotten how it was done.Any suggestions?
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 26 apr 05
Hi Patricia,
While I myself ( as me) am not a maker of Tea Pots, I would
never-the-less encourage you to throw your Spouts.
With some little practice, you may arrive nicely to those
tapers or lengths suited to the Tea Pots you wish to
make...and have a much more flexible and varied method than
any jig or interior fized-form would allow.
Of course, one makes something of a narrowish cylinder, and
then brings it 'in' to make the diameter and taper one has
in mind, wires it off and goes on from there with whatever
subsequent manipulations it needs for it's curve or
end-spout and root-base.
These will tend to twist slightly in the fireing, back into
the direction which they rotated when being Thrown, which
you would soon learn to anticipate well enough in how you
set them to their Pot-bodies.
Have fun...!
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia Sheriff"
> Can anyone tell me how
> to use those wooden spout makers such as those in the new
Axner catalog? I
> bought one some time ago, but have never figured out how
to use it. I saw
> someone at a workshop make a long skinny spout with a cut
off pool cue but I`ve
> forgotten how it was done.Any suggestions?
L. P. Skeen on tue 26 apr 05
Patricia, within the last month there was a Hank Murrow workshop at the
Appalachian Center for Craft and Gail Phillips attended. Search the
archives for her name associated with "Hank Murrow workshop" to find the URL
where she posted her pix. Also, I believe that Dolita Dohrman or someone
else posted images the day BEFORE Gail posted hers. My point is, one of the
series of pix showed Hank making a teapot spout with a drinking straw, and
that might be helpful for you. :)
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia Sheriff"
> Can anyone tell me how
> to use those wooden spout makers such as those in the new Axner catalog?
> I saw someone at a workshop make a long skinny spout with a cut off pool
> cue
JoyceLee on tue 26 apr 05
Lisa S. wrote about a picture of Hank
Murrow at the Appalachian Center.. in
the pic Hank is throwing a spout around
a straw.
My spouts for the 80 plus mini-teapots
that I've completed through the throwing
process at least(will be bisqued soon;
then comes the glazing and slipping and
hopefully some spraying)
are mostly thrown around either a toothpick,
a needle tool, a q-tip or a narrow pen.
A few spouts have been handbuilt but I also
used a needle tool
there to get the length and shape that seemed
to fit a specific pot.
Another alternative that works for me on
occasion is a handbuilt (or thrown)
model of a spout at the bone-dry stage.
I have thrown around such forms with
little need for altering the final
product. (I'll be bisquing these bone
dry forms with the mini's.)
I continue to be far from satisfied with
my mini teapots; however, I DO look forward
each day to creating a few more. Oddly,
now I look at every form... in nature or
otherwise.... as potential shapes for
teapots. Some look fine; others don't.
Joyce
In the Mojave desert of California where
the wind doth huff&puff.... as does the
westie. We're dogsitting a doxie this
weekend. Jenny (the doxie) is a year and
a half.... little, but still rather large
to be the Baby that she is. Mojo is
fully taken with her. Jenny would rather
sit in the nearest human lap.
Hank Murrow on tue 26 apr 05
On Apr 25, 2005, at 4:49 PM, Patricia Sheriff wrote:
> Can anyone tell me how
> to use those wooden spout makers such as those in the new Axner
> catalog? I
> bought one some time ago, but have never figured out how to use it. I
> saw
> someone at a workshop make a long skinny spout with a cut off pool cue
> but I`ve
> forgotten how it was done.Any suggestions?
Dear Pat;
I don't know about the Axner sticks, but I can tell you how I make mine
using an aid.
The spout is thrown normally, except that it is not necessary to throw
it to final thiness. Just throw it to teacup thickness, with a large
straw or a wet dowel as a support down the middle. After two to four
hours, reinsert the dowel and stroke the spout down just like pulling a
handle, being careful to keep the dowel well lubed with water. Helps to
spray the dowel with WD40 before placing in the spout. Anyway, that is
how the dowel is used as a mandrel to thin and lengthen the spout.
After this treatment, you can shape the spout into an S curve or what
ever you desire for it.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
David Berg on tue 26 apr 05
On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 19:49:57 EDT, Patricia Sheriff
wrote:
>Can anyone tell me how
> to use those wooden spout makers such as those in the new Axner
catalog? ...(snip)...
I'm sure that there are many creative ways to use the teapot spout tool.
Here is one way I have used it: I throw several spouts and set them aside
to dry for a while. I like a spout with an opening that is a bit smaller
diameter than I can manage to throw with my fat fingers. So while the
thrown spout's clay is still fairly plastic, but no longer sticky-wet, I
use the spout tool to further shape and hand model until the thrown spouts
openings are about 1 cm in diameter.
David
Carole Fox on wed 27 apr 05
You can see my pics of Hank Murrow's method for spouts at this link:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=185tn185.50w1fyfx&x=0&y=nsif8
The spout images start with #54 in the series.
You do not need to log in to view these.
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
Gayle Bair on wed 27 apr 05
I regularly do as Phil suggested.
I do have one tip to offer to prevent the twisting.
I always finish the spout by using a dowel, end of a needle tool, pencil...
whatever handy inside the spout and a flexible metal rib on the outside.
this removes the spiral impressions and prevents the twisting.
I haven't had a twisted spout since using this method.
Gayle Bair- still in Tucson AZ... staying one more week turns into another
-----Original Message-----
From Phil
snip<
With some little practice, you may arrive nicely to those
tapers or lengths suited to the Tea Pots you wish to
make...and have a much more flexible and varied method than
any jig or interior fized-form would allow.
Of course, one makes something of a narrowish cylinder, and
then brings it 'in' to make the diameter and taper one has
in mind, wires it off and goes on from there with whatever
subsequent manipulations it needs for it's curve or
end-spout and root-base.
These will tend to twist slightly in the fireing, back into
the direction which they rotated when being Thrown, which
you would soon learn to anticipate well enough in how you
set them to their Pot-bodies.
Have fun...!
Gayle Bair on thu 28 apr 05
Hi Vince,
Well all I can say is DUH.... I just don't know.
You are one of my clay gurus and grand high clay Pooh-Bahs
and kidding aside I stand in your shadow. My clay knowledge
would fill a thimble compared to your ocean.
I thought about this after I noticed the lack of twisting.
I tried to figure what I had done differently and all I could come up with
is that I keep the dowel stationary inside the spout try to do the same with
the rib unless it's a long spout and I have to run it up and down the
outside. I thought it was the action of compressing the clay from inside and
out. I've done this with porcelain and Laguna B-Mix.
Maybe it's just dumb luck or the Spout Goddess watching over me!
After all if we have kiln gods why not some goddesses too???
I could send you a photo of my most recent teapot spout and I'll
swear on stack of Clay bibles that I did not offset it.
Hope you are healing well and quickly,
Gayle - Hubby is pressing for us to go back to WA.... Waaaaaa
I went to the Tucson Desert Museum today and took some dynamite
photos of cactus blossoms, hummingbirds, lizards etc. Last week we had a
visit from Javelinas. John surprised me with a new digital camera Canon
Rebel XT ...OMG it's fabulous! Let me know if you want to see some of the
shots.
-----Original Message-----
From: gayle
>I regularly do as Phil suggested.
> I do have one tip to offer to prevent the twisting.
> I always finish the spout by using a dowel, end of a needle tool,
> pencil...
> whatever handy inside the spout and a flexible metal rib on the outside.
> this removes the spiral impressions and prevents the twisting.
> I haven't had a twisted spout since using this method.
Gayle -
I certainly don't mean to contradict you, in fact I refuse to contradict
you, because I have complete faith in what you say. But I am trying to
understand how this could happen. The reason that thrown teapot spouts
twist in a clockwise direction is not because of visible throwing ridges,
but because of the spiral grain structure that results from throwing. It
shouldn't matter at all that you erase the visible throwing marks with a
rib. There are plenty of people who produce teapot spouts that have no
throwing lines, and yet they still have to cut an offset in order to end up
with a good spout after it twists. So, the question here is, why aren't you
experiencing any twisting on your spouts?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka on thu 28 apr 05
>I regularly do as Phil suggested.
> I do have one tip to offer to prevent the twisting.
> I always finish the spout by using a dowel, end of a needle tool,
> pencil...
> whatever handy inside the spout and a flexible metal rib on the outside.
> this removes the spiral impressions and prevents the twisting.
> I haven't had a twisted spout since using this method.
Gayle -
I certainly don't mean to contradict you, in fact I refuse to contradict
you, because I have complete faith in what you say. But I am trying to
understand how this could happen. The reason that thrown teapot spouts
twist in a clockwise direction is not because of visible throwing ridges,
but because of the spiral grain structure that results from throwing. It
shouldn't matter at all that you erase the visible throwing marks with a
rib. There are plenty of people who produce teapot spouts that have no
throwing lines, and yet they still have to cut an offset in order to end up
with a good spout after it twists. So, the question here is, why aren't you
experiencing any twisting on your spouts?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka on fri 29 apr 05
> Just speculating here, but could it be the long contact surfaces of the
> rib and the dowel vs. the 'point' contact of fingers? The fingers are
> spiraling up while the long contact surfaces stay in the same vertical
> position as the wheel rotates. Fascinating. Might have to experiment
> with that.
John -
I think you might have hit on at least part of the secret, and I certainly
plan to experiment with this. As I said before, I have complete faith in
Gayle's reporting of her technique, so I can only assume that this does in
fact make a very big difference. Gayle suggested that it might partially be
the compression of rib against dowell, but I think that you and she are
essentially saying the same thing. I said that the shrinkage twist was not
due to the throwing ridges, but now that I consider it further, perhaps the
reason for the twist is the more-radical spiral represented by the throwing
ridges. It's not the ridges, but it is the sprial grain structure caused by
the classic fingertip throwing that creates the ridges. With the broad
surface contact and compression of rib against dowel, there might be far
less spiral grain structure, and therefore far less twisting during firing
shrinkage. I think that the spout still contracts across the grain
structure, but the shrinkage tends to be along the axis of the spout rather
than opposite the traditional throwing spiral.
Does this make sense or is it all gibberish? I'm not sure.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Tracy Wilson on fri 29 apr 05
On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 12:13:39 -0400, Carole Fox
wrote:
>You can see my pics of Hank Murrow's method for spouts at this link:
>
>http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=185tn185.50w1fyfx&x=0&y=nsif8
>
>The spout images start with #54 in the series.
>
>You do not need to log in to view these.
>
>Carole Fox
>Dayton, OH
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Great series of shots for the Hank Murrow workshop. Any idea where I can
get a cheese cutter for faceting with such a large throat? I've got a
small one but it won't take off enough clay in one swipe... A pottery
supply store or chain store would be ideal. Any ideas?
Tracy Wilson
www.saltboxpottery.com
Hank Murrow on fri 29 apr 05
On Apr 29, 2005, at 4:32 AM, Tracy Wilson wrote:
>
> Great series of shots for the Hank Murrow workshop. Any idea where I
> can
> get a cheese cutter for faceting with such a large throat? I've got a
> small one but it won't take off enough clay in one swipe... A pottery
> supply store or chain store would be ideal. Any ideas?
Well Tracy;
I will make a shameless plug for Hank"s WireTool, a stainless steel
frame with four different and interchangeable twisted wire cutters.
Intended for soft-faceting, these tools are capable of making great
marks which are even more beautiful when stretched out from the inside.
$29 postpaid. Send your request to hmurrow@efn.org
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
John Hesselberth on fri 29 apr 05
On Apr 29, 2005, at 2:30 AM, Gayle Bair wrote:
> I tried to figure what I had done differently and all I could come up
> with
> is that I keep the dowel stationary inside the spout try to do the
> same with
> the rib unless it's a long spout and I have to run it up and down the
> outside. I thought it was the action of compressing the clay from
> inside and
> out. I've done this with porcelain and Laguna B-Mix
Hi Gayle, Vince,
Just speculating here, but could it be the long contact surfaces of the
rib and the dowel vs. the 'point' contact of fingers? The fingers are
spiraling up while the long contact surfaces stay in the same vertical
position as the wheel rotates. Fascinating. Might have to experiment
with that.
Regards,
John
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
John Hesselberth on sun 1 may 05
On Apr 29, 2005, at 9:11 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> Does this make sense or is it all gibberish? I'm not sure.
Hi Vince, Gayle,
I think it makes sense. We are struggling here to say in words what we
can kind of visualize. It makes good sense to me that the spiral finger
pressure builds in some twist memory. The question then is whether the
rib/dowell technique can remove all or most of that memory--or
"transfer" it someplace else. What it might do is "transfer" that twist
memory to the lower (and thicker) part of the spout which is more
resistant to twist (because it is thicker) and/or is cut off before
attaching the spout to the pot.
Gayle, do you cut off a significant part of the base of the spout as
you attach it? Or trim out the thickest section with your fettling
knife?
Regards, John
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Gayle Bair on sun 1 may 05
Hi John,
You asked.... "Gayle, do you cut off a significant part of the base of the
spout as you attach it? Or trim out the thickest section with your fettling
knife?"
I've done it both ways. It doesn't seem to matter. I often trim a
significant portion off the bottom to get the right contour and trim away
the thick portions with a kitchen/paring knife. Sometimes I slice portions
off the top of the spout to make the hole larger &/or to get that really
sharp edge.
Best regards,
Gayle
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hesselberth
Hi Vince, Gayle,
I think it makes sense. We are struggling here to say in words what we
can kind of visualize. It makes good sense to me that the spiral finger
pressure builds in some twist memory. The question then is whether the
rib/dowell technique can remove all or most of that memory--or
"transfer" it someplace else. What it might do is "transfer" that twist
memory to the lower (and thicker) part of the spout which is more
resistant to twist (because it is thicker) and/or is cut off before
attaching the spout to the pot.
Gayle, do you cut off a significant part of the base of the spout as
you attach it? Or trim out the thickest section with your fettling
knife?
Regards, John
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Dina Barnese on sat 19 nov 11
Please, please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always come
out too fat, in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer, thinner
spouts.
I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off when
I try to make it too tall.
Is my idea of having a long, elegant spout that rises from the bottom of
the pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size,
capacity of just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a rounded
lid and elegant handle. I just can't picture a short, fat spout coming off
of this pot.
Thanks,
Dina
P.S. I've decided, in the new year when I have time to play, I am going to
throw spout after spout after spout until I get better at it!
Dina Barnese
Zizziba Studio
Flagstaff, Arizona
William & Susan Schran User on sun 20 nov 11
On 11/19/11 10:30 PM, "Dina Barnese" wrote:
> Please, please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always come
> out too fat, in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
> Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer, thinner
> spouts.
> I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off whe=
n
> I try to make it too tall.
> Is my idea of having a long, elegant spout that rises from the bottom of
> the pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size,
> capacity of just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a rounde=
d
> lid and elegant handle. I just can't picture a short, fat spout coming of=
f
> of this pot.
Dina,
You probably have what you need for thinner spouts.
Needle tool and flexible rib.
Use the handle of the needle tool, smeared with slurry, inside the spout as
you pull up from outside. No "special" stick needed.
Every time after you've pulled up or collared in using water, use the
flexible rib on outside to remove excess water and to shape the spout, usin=
g
the needle tool handle, smeared with slurry, inside.
When clay is twisting off, you are applying too much pressure and/or
building up too much friction - just back off a bit.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Liz Gowen 1 on sun 20 nov 11
Dina, This won't help with the throwing but if you put a spout all the way
to the bottom of a tea pot you will need a very good strainer before the
spout for the leaves. Either one right before or better yet a cup that sits
on the opening of the teapot that holds the tea leaves, otherwise you will
be pouring even the tea leaves that settle to the bottom..Luck..Liz Gowen
Is my idea of having a long, elegant spout that rises from the bottom of th=
e
pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size, capacity of
just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a rounded lid and
elegant handle. I just can't picture a short, fat spout coming off of this
pot.
Thanks,
Dina
P.S. I've decided, in the new year when I have time to play, I am going to
throw spout after spout after spout until I get better at it!
Dina Barnese
Zizziba Studio
Flagstaff, Arizona
Lee on sun 20 nov 11
On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 9:30 PM, Dina Barnese wrote=
=3D
:
>
> Please, please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always come
> out too fat, in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
> Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer, thinner
> spouts.
>
> I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off whe=
=3D
n
> I try to make it too tall.
>
A throwing stick helps with the twisting. =3DA0 You can use a chopstick,
needle tool, or your sponge stick with the sponge removed.
=3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0Have you considered pulling spouts on a spout tool? =
=3DA0See h=3D
ere:
http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/wheel-throwing-techni=
=3D
ques/how-to-make-a-lively-thrown-and-altered-teapot-on-the-pottery-wheel/#
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
David Woof on sun 20 nov 11
Dina=3D2C
while u practice spout throwing=3D2C u could also learn to pull spouts.
In case this is new to you=3D3B take a short fat cylinder of clay=3D2C=3D20
stick a lightly greased dowel of appropriate size and length through the ce=
=3D
nter and just=3D20
as you would pull a handle begin to wetly stroke the spout into length and =
=3D
shape=3D2C=3D20
taking care to keep the dowel centered in the developing spout.=3D20
You must keep turning the spout between pulls and pay attention to hand/fin=
=3D
ger pressure and movement of the clay because your hand touches the clay as=
=3D
ymmetrically.=3D20
When finished=3D2C let spout firm up a wee bit and remove the dowel. Now it=
i=3D
s still possible to gently play with the curves if so inclined by your desi=
=3D
gn ideas.=3D20
If your dowel sticks a bit=3D2C a slight pressure and rolling motion of the=
d=3D
owel while the spout is still on the dowel against a firm canvas surface wi=
=3D
ll expand the clay enough for removal.=3D20
This is where timing for how firm is firm enough comes into play.
If you need a demo in pulling handles stop over at Nau=3D2C (or learn to mi=
lk=3D
a cow)
someone over there may still be able to show you unless they are all "Ceram=
=3D
ic artists" now and have forgotten the language of craft in place of art th=
=3D
eory. (smile Jason) this is a friendly elbow nudge.=3D20
Or you could take a pleasant drive down the canyon to visit. One of my high=
=3D
school students just got her first commission for coffee mugs with pulled =
=3D
handles from a coffee shop=3D2C she already does a right snappy handle and =
so=3D
me of our Yavapai College students can pull a respectable handle blind fold=
=3D
ed.=3DA0 When one is experienced its in the hands not the eyes.
Of course=3D2C as you know=3D2C learning to see and understand the relation=
ship=3D
s in what is seen is integral as well.
Skills pay the bills....
David Woof
________________________________________________-
Teapot spouts
Posted by: "Dina Barnese" dinabarnese@GMAIL.COM=3D20
Date: Sun Nov 20=3D2C 2011 5:07 am ((PST))
=3D20
Please=3D2C please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always com=
e
out too fat=3D2C in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer=3D2C thinner
spouts.
=3D20
I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off when
I try to make it too tall.
=3D20
Is my idea of having a long=3D2C elegant spout that rises from the bottom o=
f
the pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size=3D2C
capacity of just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a rounded
lid and elegant handle. I just can't picture a short=3D2C fat spout coming =
of=3D
f
of this pot.
=3D20
Thanks=3D2C
Dina
=3D20
P.S. I've decided=3D2C in the new year when I have time to play=3D2C I am g=
oing=3D
to
throw spout after spout after spout until I get better at it!
=3D20
Dina Barnese
Zizziba Studio
Flagstaff=3D2C Arizona
=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0 =3D
David Finkelnburg on mon 21 nov 11
Dina,
Don't wait until next year to practice throwing teapot spouts. Do it
now! :-) The techniques have been described very well.
The technique is pretty simple, just takes a little practice. For
shorter spouts you can do all with your fingers alone. For longer spouts,
as has been stated, you will need a smooth dowel or other long, slender,
round piece of wood. To get the idea, begin with a centered lump of clay
and throw a tall, thick, slender cylinder. Collar the tip of the cylinder
in until it is fairly small. Then while the wheel is turning at a
moderately slow speed, insert the round handle of some tool...I like the
handle on my sponge on a stick...down the center of the cylinder, then,
holding the stick vertically, begin pulling it off very slightly to one
side. This simply makes sure the hole in the center of the spout is just
slightly larger than the stick, so the clay doesn't cling and drag on the
stick.
Now, of course, what you have is a thick spout which you want to make
thinner and more attractive. Hold the stick in one hand and throw with your
other hand against the pressure from it to push the clay up the stick.
Makes a longer, thinner spout. Start out small and you will get the idea
very quickly. Do slow the wheel down as you get further up the spout and
the clay becomes thinner.
Having said all this, IF you really want a long, slender, sinuous
spout, you may need to form it by slip casting and then assemble it to the
thrown teapot body. A lot of folks work that way and produce very nice
results. Another approach, pulled spout with dowel pushed down center and
then hand formed as described by David Woof. Another way is to pull a solid
spout, shape it, let it stiffen up, then slice it in half lengthwise and
hollow it out, then reassemble the halves and finally, attach it to the
body. Google Sam Chung's work for examples.
For these techniques to work well, the clay for the spout and body
should have the same shrinkage and appearance. Using the same body formula
for both a plastic body and the casting slip is ideal. That's why we make
porcelain body, casting slip and attaching slip from the same clay body
recipe.
Good teapot making!
Dave Finkelnburg
http://www.mattanddavesclays.com
-----------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 20:30:26 -0700
From: Dina Barnese
Please, please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always come
out too fat, in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer, thinner
spouts.
I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off when
I try to make it too tall.
Is my idea of having a long, elegant spout that rises from the bottom of
the pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size,
capacity of just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a rounded
lid and elegant handle. I just can't picture a short, fat spout coming off
of this pot.
Thanks,
Dina
P.S. I've decided, in the new year when I have time to play, I am going to
throw spout after spout after spout until I get better at it!
Hank Murrow on mon 21 nov 11
Very nice summary Dave;
One additional spout that I learned how to make from Hamada Shoji should =
=3D
be tried at least a few times by any teapot maker. A somewhat thin slab =3D
of clay is shaped into a moderate elipse, and folded over the little =3D
finger to form something like one of those waffle cones we love to fill =3D
with ice cream. Of course, the overlap is slipped to stick it together, =3D
and a dowel can later be used to tweek the spout into the right shape =3D
for pouring. The opening will be teardrop-shaped and this spout pours =3D
very well. You can see one here:
http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b021.jpg
& here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b070.jpg
& here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b028.jpg
Hope this extends the discussion,
Hank in Eugene, just returned from the Mingei Show opening in Seattle.
On Nov 21, 2011, at 1:46 PM, David Finkelnburg wrote:
> Dina,
> Don't wait until next year to practice throwing teapot spouts. Do =3D
it
> now! :-) The techniques have been described very well.
> The technique is pretty simple, just takes a little practice. For
> shorter spouts you can do all with your fingers alone. For longer =3D
spouts,
> as has been stated, you will need a smooth dowel or other long, =3D
slender,
> round piece of wood. To get the idea, begin with a centered lump of =3D
clay
> and throw a tall, thick, slender cylinder. Collar the tip of the =3D
cylinder
> in until it is fairly small. Then while the wheel is turning at a
> moderately slow speed, insert the round handle of some tool...I like =3D
the
> handle on my sponge on a stick...down the center of the cylinder, =3D
then,
> holding the stick vertically, begin pulling it off very slightly to =3D
one
> side. This simply makes sure the hole in the center of the spout is =3D
just
> slightly larger than the stick, so the clay doesn't cling and drag on =3D
the
> stick.
> Now, of course, what you have is a thick spout which you want to =3D
make
> thinner and more attractive. Hold the stick in one hand and throw with =
=3D
your
> other hand against the pressure from it to push the clay up the stick.
> Makes a longer, thinner spout. Start out small and you will get the =3D
idea
> very quickly. Do slow the wheel down as you get further up the spout =3D
and
> the clay becomes thinner.
> Having said all this, IF you really want a long, slender, sinuous
> spout, you may need to form it by slip casting and then assemble it to =
=3D
the
> thrown teapot body. A lot of folks work that way and produce very nice
> results. Another approach, pulled spout with dowel pushed down center =3D
and
> then hand formed as described by David Woof. Another way is to pull a =3D
solid
> spout, shape it, let it stiffen up, then slice it in half lengthwise =3D
and
> hollow it out, then reassemble the halves and finally, attach it to =3D
the
> body. Google Sam Chung's work for examples.
> For these techniques to work well, the clay for the spout and body
> should have the same shrinkage and appearance. Using the same body =3D
formula
> for both a plastic body and the casting slip is ideal. That's why we =3D
make
> porcelain body, casting slip and attaching slip from the same clay =3D
body
> recipe.
> Good teapot making!
> Dave Finkelnburg
> http://www.mattanddavesclays.com
>=3D20
> ------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 20:30:26 -0700
> From: Dina Barnese
> Please, please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always =3D
come
> out too fat, in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
> Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer, thinner
> spouts.
>=3D20
> I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off =3D
when
> I try to make it too tall.
>=3D20
> Is my idea of having a long, elegant spout that rises from the bottom =3D
of
> the pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size,
> capacity of just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a =3D
rounded
> lid and elegant handle. I just can't picture a short, fat spout coming =
=3D
off
> of this pot.
>=3D20
> Thanks,
> Dina
>=3D20
> P.S. I've decided, in the new year when I have time to play, I am =3D
going to
> throw spout after spout after spout until I get better at it!
>=3D20
Craig Edwards on mon 21 nov 11
Hey Hank: Well done! I'll risk extending the conversation some with teapot
spouts using the Xi-Xing technique of forming a spout out of a solid cone
of clay and hollowing it out with a tool of their's called a spouting
knife... a very long a narrow knife. They look similiar to Korean chop
sticks, but with a sharp edge. Here is an example, of a spout... short and
easy.
http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/2011/02/teapots-and-winter.html
Cheers,
--
Make Good Pots
~Craig
New London MN
http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 5:09 PM, Hank Murrow wrote:
> Very nice summary Dave;
>
> One additional spout that I learned how to make from Hamada Shoji should
> be tried at least a few times by any teapot maker. A somewhat thin slab o=
f
> clay is shaped into a moderate elipse, and folded over the little finger =
to
> form something like one of those waffle cones we love to fill with ice
> cream. Of course, the overlap is slipped to stick it together, and a dowe=
l
> can later be used to tweek the spout into the right shape for pouring. Th=
e
> opening will be teardrop-shaped and this spout pours very well. You can s=
ee
> one here:
>
> http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b021.jpg
>
> & here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b070.jpg
>
> & here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b028.jpg
>
> Hope this extends the discussion,
>
> Hank in Eugene, just returned from the Mingei Show opening in Seattle.
>
> On Nov 21, 2011, at 1:46 PM, David Finkelnburg wrote:
>
> > Dina,
> > Don't wait until next year to practice throwing teapot spouts. Do i=
t
> > now! :-) The techniques have been described very well.
> > The technique is pretty simple, just takes a little practice. For
> > shorter spouts you can do all with your fingers alone. For longer spout=
s,
> > as has been stated, you will need a smooth dowel or other long, slender=
,
> > round piece of wood. To get the idea, begin with a centered lump of cl=
ay
> > and throw a tall, thick, slender cylinder. Collar the tip of the cylind=
er
> > in until it is fairly small. Then while the wheel is turning at a
> > moderately slow speed, insert the round handle of some tool...I like th=
e
> > handle on my sponge on a stick...down the center of the cylinder, then,
> > holding the stick vertically, begin pulling it off very slightly to one
> > side. This simply makes sure the hole in the center of the spout is ju=
st
> > slightly larger than the stick, so the clay doesn't cling and drag on t=
he
> > stick.
> > Now, of course, what you have is a thick spout which you want to mak=
e
> > thinner and more attractive. Hold the stick in one hand and throw with
> your
> > other hand against the pressure from it to push the clay up the stick.
> > Makes a longer, thinner spout. Start out small and you will get the ide=
a
> > very quickly. Do slow the wheel down as you get further up the spout an=
d
> > the clay becomes thinner.
> > Having said all this, IF you really want a long, slender, sinuous
> > spout, you may need to form it by slip casting and then assemble it to
> the
> > thrown teapot body. A lot of folks work that way and produce very nice
> > results. Another approach, pulled spout with dowel pushed down center a=
nd
> > then hand formed as described by David Woof. Another way is to pull a
> solid
> > spout, shape it, let it stiffen up, then slice it in half lengthwise an=
d
> > hollow it out, then reassemble the halves and finally, attach it to the
> > body. Google Sam Chung's work for examples.
> > For these techniques to work well, the clay for the spout and body
> > should have the same shrinkage and appearance. Using the same body
> formula
> > for both a plastic body and the casting slip is ideal. That's why we ma=
ke
> > porcelain body, casting slip and attaching slip from the same clay body
> > recipe.
> > Good teapot making!
> > Dave Finkelnburg
> > http://www.mattanddavesclays.com
> >
> > ------------------------------
> > Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 20:30:26 -0700
> > From: Dina Barnese
> > Please, please tell me how you make your teapot spouts. Mine always com=
e
> > out too fat, in my opinion. I'm planning to get some of those small
> > Japanese throwing sticks. I hope they help me create longer, thinner
> > spouts.
> >
> > I've been having problems with the top part of the spout twisting off
> when
> > I try to make it too tall.
> >
> > Is my idea of having a long, elegant spout that rises from the bottom o=
f
> > the pot an impossible thing? The pot I want to make is a good size,
> > capacity of just over a liter. The pot itself is very round with a
> rounded
> > lid and elegant handle. I just can't picture a short, fat spout coming
> off
> > of this pot.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dina
> >
> > P.S. I've decided, in the new year when I have time to play, I am going
> to
> > throw spout after spout after spout until I get better at it!
> >
>
Steve Mills on tue 22 nov 11
Hank, that is my all-time-favourite way if making spouts; it lends itself t=
o=3D
lots of nice tweaks, and doesn't suffer from plastic memory like thrown sp=
o=3D
uts do.=3D20
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my Ipod touch
On 21 Nov 2011, at 23:09, Hank Murrow wrote:
> Very nice summary Dave;
>=3D20
> One additional spout that I learned how to make from Hamada Shoji should =
b=3D
e tried at least a few times by any teapot maker. A somewhat thin slab of c=
l=3D
ay is shaped into a moderate elipse, and folded over the little finger to f=
o=3D
rm something like one of those waffle cones we love to fill with ice cream.=
O=3D
f course, the overlap is slipped to stick it together, and a dowel can late=
r=3D
be used to tweek the spout into the right shape for pouring. The opening w=
i=3D
ll be teardrop-shaped and this spout pours very well. You can see one here:
>=3D20
> http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b021.jpg
>=3D20
> & here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b070.jpg
>=3D20
> & here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b028.jpg
>=3D20
> Hope this extends the discussion,
>=3D20
> Hank in Eugene, just returned from the Mingei Show opening in Seattle.
>=3D20
>>=3D20
Alice DeLisle on tue 22 nov 11
Hank,
Beautiful teapots. Would you mind sharing a picture of the elliptical =3D
shape that works for your spouts? Thanks,
Alice DeLisle
wanderland@att.net
http://www.etsy.com/shop/IslandTextures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alice_delisle/
ivor and olive lewis on thu 24 nov 11
Hank,
A simple way to make an elegant statement about the utility of an essential
part of the design.
Strong forms with fascinating glazes.
Sincere regards,
Ivor Lewis,
REDHILL,
South Australia
Rimas VisGirda on wed 30 nov 11
I feel you are mixing three issues that started as spout dribble: Atmospher=
ic pressure (hole in lid), Gurgling/spitting (related to hole in lid), and =
spout dribble (an animal to itself). Spout dribble in teapots is the same f=
unction as dribble in pitchers. Gravity never sleeps. -Rimas
p.s. I just read May Luk's links, and see that there are two types of dribb=
ling; dribbling while pouring and the dribble/drip at the end of the pour. =
Now I'm not sure which we've been talking about... I've been thinking of th=
e dribble/drip at the end of the pour...
Lee on wed 30 nov 11
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 7:11 AM, Rimas VisGirda wrote:
> I feel you are mixing three issues that started as spout dribble:
> Atmospheric pressure (hole in lid), Gurgling/spitting (related to hole in
> lid), and spout dribble (an animal to itself). Spout dribble in teapots i=
=3D
s
> the same function as dribble in pitchers. Gravity never sleeps.
May's links point out that gravity is not as much an issue as surface
tension. That's why a thin spout edge reduces dribble: there is less
surface to tension to.
--=3D20
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he land
of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent within
itself." -- John O'Donohue
Rimas VisGirda on thu 1 dec 11
Hello Ivor, I do not have May's link. I get the postings in digest form and=
=3D
delete when I'm done. Her 2 links regard teapots and reference the same re=
=3D
search, you will find them in her posts of the day before yesterday. I have=
=3D
cc'd her with this and she may be able to find her post in sent-mail and f=
=3D
orward it to you. The two types of dribble I'm talking about are 1. that ha=
=3D
ppen WHILE liquid is coming over the lip, sometimes if the velocity of liqu=
=3D
id is small you will get a stream as well as some drip/dribble down the sid=
=3D
e of the side of the container. 2. that happens at the END of a pour, the d=
=3D
ribble that happens as the container (teapot or pitcher) are returned to no=
=3D
n-pouring configuration. I believe #1 and #2 occur in teapots as well as pi=
=3D
tchers (and perhaps any container that one tries to pour a liquid out of)..=
=3D
. -Rimas=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A----- Original Message -----=3D0A=3D0ADear=3DA0=
Rimas VisGird=3D
a,=3D0AI would appreciate the URL that would guide me to May Luk's informat=
io=3D
n about two types of Dribble.=3D0AI concur,=3DA0 Gravity activates the flui=
d st=3D
ream once there is a difference in height.=3D0ABut I need to resolve the di=
st=3D
inction between a spout of a teapot and a lip on a pitcher.=3DA0 One delive=
rs=3D
liquid from within the bulk through a conduit, the other from the surface =
=3D
over a weir.=3D0ARegards,=3D0AIvor Lewis,=3D0AREDHILL,=3D0ASouth Australia=
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rimas VisGirda" =3D0=
AT=3D
o: "ivor and olive lewis" ; "paul gerhold" =3D
lay@DISHMAIL.NET>; "John McClure" ; "May Luk" =3D
aywedgie@GMAIL.COM>=3D0ACc: "clayart post" =3D0AS=
ent:=3D
Wednesday, November 30, 2011 11:41 PM=3D0ASubject: teapot spouts=3D0A=3D0A=
=3D0A> I=3D
feel you are mixing three issues that started as spout dribble: Atmospheri=
=3D
c pressure (hole in lid), Gurgling/spitting (related to hole in lid), and s=
=3D
pout dribble (an animal to itself). Spout dribble in teapots is the same fu=
=3D
nction as dribble in pitchers. Gravity never sleeps. -Rimas=3D0A> p.s. I ju=
st=3D
read May Luk's links, and see that there are two types of dribbling; dribb=
=3D
ling while pouring and the dribble/drip at the end of the pour. Now I'm not=
=3D
sure which we've been talking about... I've been thinking of the dribble/d=
=3D
rip at the end of the pour...=3D0A> =3D0A>
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