Robbie Hunsinger on fri 28 feb 97
-------------------
I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. =
I'm
mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the wall=
for
leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
appreciated.
Marvin S. Flowerman on sat 1 mar 97
I've been dthrowing standing up or sitting on a very high tri-pod seat for
several years in order to minimize back strain.
I simply built a very sturdy 14" high wooden stand, set my Shimpo wheel on
it so that the feet of the wheel were at least an inch or more in from the
edge of the stand. Of course, the stand must be perfectly level, and the
wheel must be leveled.
I find that the wiehgt of the wheel is quite enough to keep the wheel from
falling off, but I do check often, just to be sure.
Hope this gives you some reassurance.
Good luck!
Marvin Flowerman (marvpots@aol.com)l
Marcia Selsor on sat 1 mar 97
In our shop, we set up an old RK-2 on cinderblocks for a student with a
back back. It didn't fly off the blocks. I don't think she did any
really large pieces though (10-15 lbs max).
Marci in Montana
Robbie Hunsinger wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> -------------------
> I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. I'm
> mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the wall f
> leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
> cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
> appreciated.
--
Marcia Selsor
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/
mjbmls@imt.net
Fiona Beaumont on sat 1 mar 97
Hi
I'm also mechanically challenged, but I think I know what you mean
about flying wheels!
I prefer throwing standing up, and I must admit I don't lean on any
walls - it would be a bit difficult to reach the wheel if I did in our
studio!
What I do do, is brace my forearms on the pan rim, forming a sort of
triangle with my hands on the clay as the pointy bit. This means that
your weight is pushing "downwards" on the wheel, so no flying wheels!
I don't know if this is a common method or completely bizarre, but I
know it works for me!
Good luck,
Fiona
Still rushing up and down that M1, between Nottingham and
Dunstable!(UK)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Throwing standing up
Author: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU%smtp at ccx400uk
Date: 27/02/97 22:48
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
-------------------
I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. I'm
mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the wall for
leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
appreciated.
Sandra Dwiggins on sat 1 mar 97
Robbie, there is an excellent article in an old CM--probably 2-3 years
ago--by John Glick about how he put together a stand-up throughing rig
after his back problems prevented him from doing any throwing sitting
down. It has plans, etc. Don't remember what his wheel was, but this
will give you some ideas....There have been several people on this list
who have also done this typeof modification for themselves---look in the
archives---about two months ago I think.
Sandy
Tom Gray on sat 1 mar 97
The majority of potters in Seagrove throw standing up, and probably have
for a couple of hundred years. One of the latest tools discovered that
works great is a Rubbermaid watering trough. They make 2 sizes that I know
of, 100 gallon, and 150 gallon. Most wheels will fit in the 100 gallon
(sells for approx. $70.00), Brent, old CI's, and similar wheels. The new
CI's, Shimpo's (because of stick shift type of throttle), and larger stance
wheels require the larger trough. The 150 gallon is approx. $95.00. Just
raise the trough up on blocks until its a comfortable height to lean
against while throwing, and raise the wheel up inside of trough to a
comfortable height (but not so high that wheelhead is higher than rim of
trough). Throwing standing up is much better for your back, and all of the
mess stays in the trough. We have had some pretty sloppy potters working
for us, and their mess is contained as a result of the troughs. This idea
began with John Mellage of Cady Clay Works (Seagrove), and has been widely
copied by most of the pottery community here. If you live in a rural area,
finding one will be a breeze. Urban potters may have a tough time. Maybe
Rubbermaid Agricultural Products has their own web site!
Later-Tom
At 06:58 AM 2/28/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>-------------------
>I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. I'm
>mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the
wall for
>leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
>cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
>appreciated.
>
>
*****************************************************************
Tom Gray
Tom Gray Pottery
Seagrove, NC
http://ns.atomic.net/~tgraypots
Carolina Clay, The ultimate websource for North Carolina pottery!
http://www.cclay.com
*****************************************************************
George C. Fenstermacher on sat 1 mar 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>-------------------
>I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. =
>I'm
>mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the wall=
> for
>leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
>cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
>appreciated.
Dear "standing"
I stand at a Brent C and push against the wall..have a tall barstool for an
alternative position. A friend cut some machined tubing (fancy pipe) to
fit outside the existing legs and to an appropriate length (based on the
height I wanted at the wheel head). The fit was tight enough that the
extensions needed some force to slide in to position. The legs and
extensions were then drilled and bolts inserted. Absolutely no wabble and
the extensions can be removed (along with the help of a gorilla) if
desired. The machined tubing can be ordered to a specific i.d. creating the
tight fit.
It took little effort to adapt to the standing position...just need to
brace your elbows against ribs in place of thighs...atleast that works for
me.
Good luck ,
George in St. George, Utah
____________________________________________________________________
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
. X-X-X .
.X X.
.X {-------------------T_______{+_+}
.X {---------------------------{+_+}
.X X.
.X-X-X. GEORGE C. FENSTERMACHER
Southern Utah University
St. George Center
225 S. 700 E.
St George, Utah 84770
Phone 801-652-7841
FAX 801-652-7843
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
____________________________________________________________________
Sylvia See on sat 1 mar 97
Hi Robbie;
I don't have any suggestions for your shimpo wheel, but after watching
Stephen Jepson standing with his Shimpo wheel I decided to try standing at
the wheel. I have a Pacifica wheel and ordered the leg extensions with seat
and love it. I have had cronic back pain for years and this certainly helps
the problem. I bought a second wheel, Shimpo so that I could do large forms
and keep two wheels going while they setup before adding pieces together,
and didn't like going back to the crouch at all. Immediately had back
problems again, but more importantly missed seeing my work at eyelevel
height while throwing. I really l like the height for decorating, trimming
and throwing. You are looking at your pieces under construction from a
different perspective than when your bent over your work. I have my seat
raised to the height of the table. I had an extension pipe welded to the
existing pipe on the seat,and I don't really sit on the seat while
throwing, I rest my butt against it while centering and throwing. It helps
keep your balance and body and arms steady.
It took a very short time to get used to and I sold my new shimpo in a very
short time and bought another Pacifica. I find that the standing height
with the seat, really helps with the neck strain when centering large
pieces of clay, and I just love the large stuff. Sorry I can't help with
the Shimpo wheel, but thought you might like to consider the seat system at
the same time as you solve the height problem. It works like a charm for me
and my almost 60 year ol body thanks me alot.
Sylvia See
sylviac@telusplanet.net
----------
From: Robbie Hunsinger
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Throwing standing up
Date: Friday, February 28, 1997 4:58 AM
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
-------------------
I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up.
I'm
mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the
wall for
leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off
its
cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be
much
appreciated.
----------
Hertz Pottery on sat 1 mar 97
I Built a stand that looks like a tall pyramid with out the top. Framed with
2x4's and sheathed in plywood, the top is plywood too... I use no supports
to lean against but have seeen them. I throw larger pieces ,more than 4 lbs
sitting at my Estrin. but my shimpo up on that stand is great for smaller
pieces and much easier on the back...
Be careful to check for wobble after you move it the stand must be stable or
your work will wobble too. unless of course thats what your looking for..
Erik >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>-------------------
>I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. I'm
>mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the
wall for
>leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
>cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
>appreciated.
>
>
erik hertz
Marget and Peter Lippincott on mon 3 mar 97
Robbie Hunsinger wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> -------------------
> I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. I'm
> mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the wall f
> leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
> cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
> appreciated.
Robbie:
Try it! I bet it wont go flying. If it does seem to be teetering
percariously back it with another piece of studio furniture or put in
against a wall (preferably in front of a window for interest when you
look up) It works for me.
{Peter
Paula Offutt on mon 3 mar 97
Robbie, I use a Brent wheel that I have up on blocks (2 under each leg)
and it rarely moves during centering. It moves more when I am pushing on
the splash pan! When centering, there is equal pressure pushing down than
across so the wheel stays put. I have a high stool with a back rest that
I use to "rest" between pots. I am 5'4" and the 2 block (on their sides,
not standing up!!) under each leg seems to be the height good for me.
Another potter I know has his on the same thing and he is taller but has
no problems. You may find putting the wheel that close to the wall may be
too awkward, I dunno. Creative Industries has an adjustable (hydraulic)
stand for their wheels. And I think Brent sells a stand as well, altho it
seems rather more expensive than the block! Put each leg (of the wheel)
in the center of each block. I have all 3 facing the same direction
(narrow ends toward me). Do Shimpos have legs or are they on a big
base??? Anyhow, hope this helps. I have been standing to throw for so
long that when I used someone else's wheel to demonstrate something once,
sitting all hunched over felt so awkward!! I was glad to get back to my
own!!
Paula Offutt, BrambleToast Pottery
Alexander, NC unseasonably warm, flood warnings still out tho.
From: Robbie Hunsinger
>I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up.
>I'm mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against
>the wall for leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel
>go flying off its cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any
>suggestions would be much appreciated.
Jonathan Kaplan on mon 3 mar 97
I learned to thrown standing up in the mid 1980's after 15 years of back
and foot pain. Throwing standing up changed both my attitude about working
as well as my health.
We use the Brent extensions (although many other arrangements suffice) on
many of our Brent wheels here in the plant. Our plaster wheel is of course
used standing up, as are our trimming wheels, my throwing wheel, and a few
in the classroom to give students the exposure.
Having been a ski boot fitter in another life, I might add that custom
orthodics for your feet are the next crutial addition to throwing standing
up. While these can run in the neighborhood of $100-200, your body will
appreciate them and thank you for this kindness. Custom orthodics, (not
cheapo Dr. Scholes) can be obtained from sports medicine docs, orthopedic
docs, podiatrists, etc.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
http://www.craftweb.com/org/jkaplan/cdg.shtml
http://digitalfire.com/magic/articles/kaplan1.htm
(aka "Scooter)
jonathan@csn.net
Ceramic Design Group Ltd./Production Services Voice:
970-879-9139 POB 775112
FAXmodem: same
Steamboat Springs, Colorado 80477, USA CALL before faxing
"Arrive on time, tell the truth, be a good listener, and don't
be too attatched to the results. Above all, maintain a sense of
humor!"
Nils Lou on tue 4 mar 97
I stand throwing up, sometimes even sitting I might throw up; but usually
I am lying down when I throw up--and that defies gravity so maybe it is
easier to throw down from above--course the wheel needs to turn clockwise...
March madness strikes even old guys. As Whitman said once or maybe it was
Yogi Berra.
Michael Kline on thu 6 mar 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>-------------------
>I am interested in setting up my Shimpo RK-2 so I can throw standing up. I'm
>mechanically challenged, and when I imagine resting my back against the
>wall for
>leverage and support, I see my theoretical standing wheel go flying off its
>cement blocks every time I attempt to center. Any suggestions would be much
>appreciated.
Hi Robbie,
Don't worry about that wheel flying off the blocks. I've
been standing and throwing on a Shimpo for about 7 years and haven't had
that happen to me yet.
I use very soft clay which is a pleasure to use. Not only
is it easy to wedge but it also very easy form pots . For larger pieces I
use a slightly harder clay but it is still softer than a 'packaged' clay
normally is. For even larger pieces I coil and throw and stand on a small
stool about 8" high that gives me just the lift I need to get above the rim
of the pot to turn.
My experience with standing has been very good. I enjoy the
advantages it offers my posture. Standing is a more 'active' posture in
that you can step back from your work and size it up from a distance and
move ware boards easily when they fill.
I don't stand against a support against the wall. My studio
partner has this setup and it is very effective with no reported wheel
fly-a-way. Again, I think soft clay is the answer to many problems of the
back and the wrists. I would encourge you to explore this possibility if
you haven't already. Hope this is encoraging to your back.
()()()()()()()()()()()()(()()()()()()()(()()()()(()()()(
Michael Kline okra@crocker.com
Okra Pottery 413 238 0321
P O Box 614
Worthington
Ma 01098
()()()(()()())()(()()()()(()()()()()())()()()()()(()()(
Dick Traill on tue 22 jul 97
I previously posted this message concerning variable height wheel adjustments.
I don't know what manufactured leg extensions cost ,but here is what I did.
I went to a steel salvage company that sells steel pipe . I gave them the
outside diameter of my wheel legs and asked for steelppipe that would fit
over my legs. I estimated the height that I wanted my wheel head. I was told
by a potter with experience throwing while standing that the wheel head
should be about 4-6 inches below your beltline. Take the steel pilpes to a
welder and have him weld one or two bolts near the top of each pipe. Also
have them cut a hole in thepipe prior to welding on the nut. Insert a bolt
with similar thread size and tighten the pipe to your legs. ( be sure to
measure the lengths of each of your legs as my Brent has braces which
required one of the pipes to be shorter then the other two). Although not
necessary, I also had steel strips welded to the bottoms of each leg and
had rubber pads with threaded bolts welded to the leg bottoms. These
threaded leg extensions provided fine adjustments for leveling the wheel
head. It works great and is much better on my back.If your eliminate the
threaded extensions you can simply stand on one or more pieces of plywood to
adjust your throwing height. Throwing standing up allows the weight of your
upper body do much of the work.
Richard Traill
Phoenix, Arizona
HTTP;//www.primenet.com/~danat/
Jonathan Kaplan on thu 7 oct 99
In the late 70's I started to thrown standing up. Bought a Brent extension
kit and never turned back.
They are expensive, very adjustable, and of course, soundly built using big
diameter pipe and Hollander type fitings, some welding, set screws etc. An
enterprising potter can build one as good, cheaper.
I extended the electrical cord to the foot pedal. I also drilled and tapped
a hole in the foot pedal and installed a 3 foot or so rod with a handle on
the end, sort of like a stick shift on a car. Can use foot or hand to
control speed.
All the wheels in our plant( all Brents) are not set up on Brent stands for
trimming, banding, some throwing, and my staff finds it easy to adapt to
from working sitting up.
There have been, in my pottery career, some important "ah ha" moments.
Included in this catagory are throwing standing up, a Ratcliffe jigger,
getting fit for custom orthodics for my feet, anti fatique mats for the
floor, cordierite kiln furniture from Acme Marls, using an oxyprobe, a
Giffin Grip, the grabber pad, and of course my RAM press.
I would concur with John Glick that perhaps the most imprtant thing you can
do for yourself in our line of work is to protect your back. Throwing
standing up protects mine, after 30 plss years of making pots.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan, president
Ceramic Design Group LTd/Production Services
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
Roger Korn on sun 10 oct 99
Over here, we call it, "Talking to Ralph O'Roarke on the porcelain
telephone".
Roger
Ditmar wrote:
I don't recommend it, unless you're on a sailboat with the wind at your
back.
I endorse the old head in the bowl method.
>From Alohaland, very tongue in cheek, Ditmar.
John Jensen on mon 20 dec 99
------------------
I've been throwing standing up for about three years now and have had no
prolems with my back. I have had to take the stress on my feet into =
account. I
run a little and play tennis a couple of times a week and stay on my feet =
all
day long when working. I went to a podiatrist and he said my feet were =
fine=3B
but I still have some pain and strain. I realized finally that I was =
spending
too much time leaning on my left foot so I have learned to alternate the =
weight
from foot to foot. I like to keep my foot on the foot pedal when I throw, =
and
I've learned to adjust the speed even when I'm carrying all my weight on my
right foot.
I stand at my wheel from nine am till 7 pm every Saturday throwing the 246 =
bowls
which make up my main production. Since I began making the effort to give my
left foot periodic relief the pains have gone away.
John Jensen in Annapolis, Mudbug Pottery. www.Toadhouse.com
John Rodgers on wed 22 dec 99
Something you might want to try out for relief is custom orthodics. I recently g
some made and they are a lifesaver ( footsaver?). Well worth the money spent. Wi
had had them months ago.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
John Jensen wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ------------------
> I've been throwing standing up for about three years now and have had no
> prolems with my back. I have had to take the stress on my feet into account.
> run a little and play tennis a couple of times a week and stay on my feet all
> day long when working. I went to a podiatrist and he said my feet were fine;
> but I still have some pain and strain. I realized finally that I was spending
> too much time leaning on my left foot so I have learned to alternate the weigh
> from foot to foot. I like to keep my foot on the foot pedal when I throw, and
> I've learned to adjust the speed even when I'm carrying all my weight on my
> right foot.
> I stand at my wheel from nine am till 7 pm every Saturday throwing the 246 bow
> which make up my main production. Since I began making the effort to give my
> left foot periodic relief the pains have gone away.
>
> John Jensen in Annapolis, Mudbug Pottery. www.Toadhouse.com
Grace Sheese on tue 27 nov 01
I'm looking to extend my wheel so that I can throw standing up. Brent's =
leg extensions costs $320! Any simple suggestions for a cheaper way of =
doing this? It needs to be simple since I'm not good at building =
things. Also, what should be the appropriate height?
Thanks,
Grace
David Hendley on wed 28 nov 01
Leg extensions are nothing more than pipes.
I would, of course, shop at the junk yard to make some. It's not too
much more $ to go to the hardware store. Ask them for 3 24" pieces
of "1 1/2" black pipe, unthreaded" This will be 5 or 10 dollars.
The best way to find out what height you want your wheel is to
make the leg extensions adjustable.
Most people like "waist-to-belly button" height.
To do this, drill holes about 2" up from the bottom of each leg of
your wheel. Tap the holes so you can screw 3/8" bolts into them.
Put the holes on the "inside" of the legs, so the bolts will not be
sticking out to scrape against.
If you don't know what this means, just tell the hardware
store guy that you need to drill and tap for a 3/8" bolt. He will
sell you the proper size of drill bit and tap. Also buy the 3 bolts,
3/4" long.
I assume you have a drill. If not, you will need to borrow one.
Also, go to a "real" hardware store, where there are knowledgeable
salespeople.
To install your leg extensions, remove the plastic caps from the
bottoms of the legs and insert the extensions. The legs are 2"
pipe, and the 1 1/2" pipe extensions will fit inside them. Measure
so they are all sticking out the same amount, and tighten them
in place with the 3 bolts.
Do this with the wheel turned on its side.
If you want plastic caps for the bottoms of your new legs, ask
at the store for the plastic caps that are used to protect the ends
of pipes during shipping. These are usually thrown away, and
they will probably give you three.
This set-up is sturdier and more professional looking than
setting a wheel up on blocks, as well as being adjustable.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grace Sheese"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 7:19 PM
Subject: throwing standing up
I'm looking to extend my wheel so that I can throw standing up. Brent's leg
extensions costs $320! Any simple suggestions for a cheaper way of doing
this? It needs to be simple since I'm not good at building things. Also,
what should be the appropriate height?
Thanks,
Grace
CINDI ANDERSON on thu 29 nov 01
Hmmm... just trying to figure this out, since my belly button IS at my waist IS...
Maybe not everyone's is???
Cindi
David Hendley wrote:
> Most people like "waist-to-belly button" height.
Donald G. Goldsobel on tue 6 may 03
I have decided to convert my wheel for stand up throwing ( disc problem)
Does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on a
Brent CCan anyone toss around the pros and cons of using a reostat (sp?) as
opposed to converting the foot pedal?
thanks a heap
Donald
Jim Larkin on wed 7 may 03
Don,
I "temporarily" C-clamped a 3.5 foot piece of aluminum angle iron onto my =
brent foot pedal for a handle about 15 years ago, and it works fine. Just h=
ave to reach out slightly and tap it up or back to control the speed.
Jim
Jim Larkin
Fox Pass Pottery
Hot Springs, Arkansas
Does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on a
Brent>=20
___________________________________________________________________________=
___
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.=
com.
John Jensen on wed 7 may 03
I can't discuss the pros and cons of using a rheostat; but I can say
that after quite a few years of throwing standing up, I have gotten used
to working with one foot on the pedal and one foot on the floor. I'm not
exactly a spring chicken and I haven't experienced any sort of back
trouble or misalignment that I can discern. Sometimes after a long
unbroken session at the wheel...like eight hours...my left foot might be
a bit more sore than my right.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
mudbug@toadhouse.com , http://www.toadhouse.com
>I have decided to convert my wheel for stand up throwing ( disc
problem)
>does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on
a
>Brent CCan anyone toss around the pros and cons of using a reostat
(sp?) >as
>opposed to converting the foot pedal?
>thanks a heap
>Donald
Lily Krakowski on wed 7 may 03
I have thrown standing up for years. I have a Brent B. From the catalog
pix it looks like the pedal arrangement is the same. My pedal sits on a
table just next my wheel and at wheel head height. As one learns to throw
standing up one gives up that nervous speed variation foot pedals inspire
and goes to less frequen speed changes. I just operate my pedal with my
front paw instead of back paw. If you throw with lots of water you might
want to cover the pedal with a piece of thick,transparent plastic.
Donald G. Goldsobel writes:
> I have decided to convert my wheel for stand up throwing ( disc problem)
> Does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on a
> Brent CCan anyone toss around the pros and cons of using a reostat (sp?) as
> opposed to converting the foot pedal?
>
> thanks a heap
>
> Donald
>
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Karin Abromaitis on wed 7 may 03
Donald, =20
I throw standing up-have a Pacifica. The cord is long enough that I can =
still use it on the floor with my foot. But I have also used other set-u=
ps where the pedal was put next to the table of the wheel and I just set =
the speed with my hand. Only need two speeds anyway-fast for centering a=
nd slow for forming and off for removing the piece. Always seemed easy e=
nough for me to do with my hand. Its sooo much better for my back to be =
able to stand. Good luck.
Karin A.
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald G. Goldsobel
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 2:08 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Throwing Standing Up
I have decided to convert my wheel for stand up throwing ( disc problem)
Does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on a
Brent CCan anyone toss around the pros and cons of using a reostat (sp?)=
as
opposed to converting the foot pedal?
thanks a heap
Donald
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.
Marvpots@AOL.COM on wed 7 may 03
Hi Donald:
I raised my wheel about 14 inches, or to whatever height is comfortable for
you while standing. I built a simple, but sturdy stand consisting of 4x4's,
joined with cross pieces and topped with a square of 3/4" plywood.
I tried to arrange a foot pedal (I have a Shimpo wheel with the "shift lever"
attached on the side) but found it very uncomfoprtable trying to use the foot
pedal while, in effect standing on one leg!
I was later on at a workshop where the presenter was using a kick wheel and
it became clear that the starting and stopping, for which a foot pedal on an
electric wheel is mostly used, was unnecessary--the kick wheel, once started
just keeps turning without the need for starting and stopping, except to
renew its energy.
Thus, my wheel runs almost continuously while I'm working, and, if some speed
adjustment is needed, a slight nudge to the hand lever does the trick.
So-if you're part of the crowd of lower back sufferers of various types of
ailments, raising the wheel and letting it run should work well for you.
All the best.
Marvin Flowerman.
marvpots@aol.com
Kenneth D. Westfall on thu 8 may 03
Long thought about a control mounted on the back leg of my CXC that worked
like a cabnet model sewing machine that you operate with your knee. Guess
I have to get around to it sometime but for the last 9 years I just stood
on one foot and the other on the pedal. It does help I have heard to learn
to use either foot so you can trade off and give you both legs a break. I
have not mastered that one yet. lol One thing to remember about working
standing up is you can walk away from the wheel giving your body a compleat
change in position. I'm working on my second ruptured disk (now repaired)
so little breaks make for a big difference come the end of the day.
Original Message -----
>From: Donald G. Goldsobel
>Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 2:08 PM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Throwing Standing Up
>
>I have decided to convert my wheel for stand up throwing ( disc problem)
>Does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on a
>Brent CCan anyone toss around the pros and cons of using a reostat (sp?)=
> as
>opposed to converting the foot pedal?
>
>thanks a heap
>
>Donald
>
>_________________________________________________________________________=
>_____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
>k.com.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
R.D. #2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
pinehill@ruralnet.org
http://www.pinehillpottery.com
Susan Fox-Hirschmann on thu 8 may 03
I raised my wheels to the level that I can use a stool to just set my butt
and still remain upright without having to stand up. It is so comfortable
and I don/t have to stand!
Susan
Annnandale, VA
Donald G. Goldsobel on thu 8 may 03
I always knew that if I had a need for advice on how to make an important
change, Clayart would be there. Thanks to all of you who so generoulsly gave
your advice.
Donald
-----
Sandy Henderson on fri 9 may 03
Does anyone know if it is possible to adapt a Randall wheel (motorized) for throwing
standing up?
Thanks,
Sandy Henderson in Northwest Indiana
------------------------------------------------------------
On 8 May 2003 at 0:00, Automatic digest processor wrote:
> Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 23:10:09 -0400
> From: Jim Larkin
> Subject: Re: Throwing Standing Up
>
> Don,
> I "temporarily" C-clamped a 3.5 foot piece of aluminum angle iron onto my =
> brent foot pedal for a handle about 15 years ago, and it works fine. Just h=
> ave to reach out slightly and tap it up or back to control the speed.
> Jim
>
> Jim Larkin
> Fox Pass Pottery
> Hot Springs, Arkansas
>
>
> > Does anyone have info on how to attach a hand lever to control speed on a
> Brent>=20
Leland G. Hall on sat 10 may 03
Hello claybuds,
Great to hear this topic discussed. Due to one fusion and an attempted but
totally failed fusion in my cervical spine,(neck), I tried the throwing
standing up idea some years ago. There is a lot to be said for it, though
it didn't work out for me in the long run. I also tried my wheel in the
rubbermaid tub. That was pretty good too, for various reasons. My main
problem with the elevated wheel was encountered when throwing tall, two
piece pots. (I STILL can't throw tall one piecers, darn it!) I tried
standing on a variety of stools, milk crates, ladders, you name it, and
just don't have the sudio space to build an elevated platform of plywood or
whatever, which is probably what it would take to provide the stability
necessary to accomodate my compromised balance. My throwing skills have
improved and I fortunatly don't make as much of a mess as I used too, so
have not decided wether or not to try the tub again. It was commandeered
by my wife for a baby chick brooder this early spring, but is now
availiable again. Might try it. Still, space is always a concern.
I guess my point is, since you all must be starting to wonder, is regarding
throwng tall pots while standing up. Something to be considered. If all
my work was smallish, I'd probably go back to it.
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
Raku pottery and sculpture
La Pine, OR, USA
Where summer just wont come, but the elk herd is back. A joy to observe,
but they drive my wolves crazy!!
Donald G. Goldsobel on sat 10 may 03
So! My original question that started the current thread was how do you
adapt a Brent pedal for use in stand up throwing? Has anyone done this?
Donald
Jim Larkin on sun 11 may 03
adapt a Brent pedal for use in stand up throwing? Has anyone done this?
Donald>
And my original answer was to C-clamp(or weld if you wish) a 3.5 or so foot=
piece of aluminum angle iron to the pedal for a "handle". And yes, I've do=
ne it.=20
Jim Larkin=20
Fox Pass Pottery
Hot Springs, Arkansas
Norman Aufrichtig on mon 12 may 03
simple, put the pedal on the top of the wheel platform and use your hand
to adjust the pedal for speed, that's how i do it, lessen the tension on
the pedal to make it easier to adjust using your hand. my wheel is a
pacifica, the pedal looks similar.
norman
=?iso-8859-1?q?Katie=20Ellis?= on tue 13 may 03
As I believe I've mentioned this before on ClayArt,
but I have two 16-inch metal rods in my spine. I only
have two vertebre that can bend. Because of this, I
throw with a wheel set up on a nice set of bricks (who
would have thought that a set of lovely bricks would
change my life?). The wheel is the perfect
height...my knees come up to about the middle of the
splash pan, and I can steady my hands by squeezing my
midsection with my elbows. It works wonderful for me,
and my back pain has been minimal. The only
disadvantage is that when I throw tall narrow
cylinders, I usually have to stand up to complete a
pull.
~Katie
with wind burned cheeks after her last golf match
EVER...thank heavens it's over!
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Información de Estados Unidos y América Latina, en Yahoo! Noticias.
Visítanos en http://noticias.espanol.yahoo.com
Don Clarke on sat 9 aug 03
I am recovering from the infamous lumbar microdiscectomy L4/5 back surgery
and have started to redesign my studio in an attempt to throw standing. The
first challenge was raising my Brent CXC wheel ... after seeing the prices
(!) of the pre-fabricated stands and the crudeness of the concrete blocks, I
took a trip to the local building supply store. There I found standard 2"
ABS (not PVC) black sewer/plumbing pipe that had an inside diameter the
exact size of the legs (2-3/8" DIA) on my Brent. For just under $20 I
purchased 8 "Y" connectors and 10' of 2" pipe and a bottle of ABS glue ...
this made a wonderful (and aesthetic if I may say so) stand that now had my
Brent perched on top of it. Very simple design ... I can email a picture if
it would help anyone planning to build one.
David Beumee on sun 10 aug 03
It took a workshop with potter David Bradley to convince me
that I didn't need to put such strain on my back in the hairpin
position of sitting down, which I did for 25 years. But your
present setup still leaves you with nothing to lean on or brace
your arms against. I built a box around the wheel head so I
can lean against a sturdy belly board, where I can also brace
my arms or elbows if necessary. The box angles upward and
outward from the belly board in front of the wheel head, so not
only does the box catch nearly 100% of the trimmings, but also
provides an excellent work area to set water and slip buckets,
sponges, tools, stains, slips, brushes, etc.
David Beumee
Earth Alchemy Pottery
Lafayette, CO
8/9/03 6:24:04 PM, Don Clarke wrote:
>I am recovering from the infamous lumbar microdiscectomy L4/5 back surgery
>and have started to redesign my studio in an attempt to throw standing. The
>first challenge was raising my Brent CXC wheel ... after seeing the prices
>(!) of the pre-fabricated stands and the crudeness of the concrete blocks, I
>took a trip to the local building supply store. There I found standard 2"
>ABS (not PVC) black sewer/plumbing pipe that had an inside diameter the
>exact size of the legs (2-3/8" DIA) on my Brent. For just under $20 I
>purchased 8 "Y" connectors and 10' of 2" pipe and a bottle of ABS glue ...
>this made a wonderful (and aesthetic if I may say so) stand that now had my
>Brent perched on top of it. Very simple design ... I can email a picture if
>it would help anyone planning to build one.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Don Clarke on sun 10 aug 03
Not so ...
I have moved my wheel up against the wall and installed a lumbar support
from a car which works fairly well. You can see a picture as I posted it up
on the web .. http://www.efn.org/~clayfest/BrentStand.htm
tim oneal on sun 17 aug 03
On Sat, 9 Aug 2003 20:24:04 -0400, Don Clarke wrote:
>I am recovering from the infamous lumbar microdiscectomy L4/5 back surgery
>and have started to redesign my studio in an attempt to throw standing. The
>first challenge was raising my Brent CXC wheel ... after seeing the prices
>(!) of the pre-fabricated stands and the crudeness of the concrete blocks,
I
>took a trip to the local building supply store. There I found standard 2"
>ABS (not PVC) black sewer/plumbing pipe that had an inside diameter the
>exact size of the legs (2-3/8" DIA) on my Brent. For just under $20 I
>purchased 8 "Y" connectors and 10' of 2" pipe and a bottle of ABS glue ...
>this made a wonderful (and aesthetic if I may say so) stand that now had my
>Brent perched on top of it. Very simple design ... I can email a picture if
>it would help anyone planning to build one.
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Hey Don. I too have a cxc brent thats giving by back fits.
I would appreciate it if you could email me a pic of yours. I have
an idea on how you built the stand, but you know a picture is worth a
thousand words.... thanks TIM ONEAL (onetno@prodigy.net)
Donald G. Goldsobel on sat 30 aug 03
David,
Do you know if Davied Bradley has a wbsite with pics of his wheel set up?
Donald
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Beumee"
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 4:57 AM
Subject: Re: throwing standing up
> It took a workshop with potter David Bradley to convince me
> that I didn't need to put such strain on my back in the hairpin
> position of sitting down, which I did for 25 years. But your
> present setup still leaves you with nothing to lean on or brace
> your arms against. I built a box around the wheel head so I
> can lean against a sturdy belly board, where I can also brace
> my arms or elbows if necessary. The box angles upward and
> outward from the belly board in front of the wheel head, so not
> only does the box catch nearly 100% of the trimmings, but also
> provides an excellent work area to set water and slip buckets,
> sponges, tools, stains, slips, brushes, etc.
>
> David Beumee
> Earth Alchemy Pottery
> Lafayette, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 8/9/03 6:24:04 PM, Don Clarke wrote:
>
> >I am recovering from the infamous lumbar microdiscectomy L4/5 back
surgery
> >and have started to redesign my studio in an attempt to throw standing.
The
> >first challenge was raising my Brent CXC wheel ... after seeing the
prices
> >(!) of the pre-fabricated stands and the crudeness of the concrete
blocks, I
> >took a trip to the local building supply store. There I found standard 2"
> >ABS (not PVC) black sewer/plumbing pipe that had an inside diameter the
> >exact size of the legs (2-3/8" DIA) on my Brent. For just under $20 I
> >purchased 8 "Y" connectors and 10' of 2" pipe and a bottle of ABS glue
...
> >this made a wonderful (and aesthetic if I may say so) stand that now had
my
> >Brent perched on top of it. Very simple design ... I can email a picture
if
> >it would help anyone planning to build one.
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Lili Krakowski on sat 15 jan 11
I have thrown standing up for years, and just find it easier than =3D
scrunching over. But then I am short, round, female.
BUT: You do not tell us what is wrong with your back. What works for =3D
someone with sciatica may not work for someone with an injured =3D
vertebrae. I strongly suggest you speak to a chiropractor of a physio =3D
therapist, explain the posture you assume while throwing (get someone to =
=3D
take some pix) and go from there.
When adjusting wheel height, do not lift the wheel up and down. Find =3D
some 10" or wider boards or pieces of 3/4" plywood. Stand on one and if =
=3D
that does not work, stand on two...In other words raise yourself up at =3D
the wheel about an 1 to 3/4 inch at a time. When you reach the height =3D
that is comfortable build a permanent little throwing platform..or raise =
=3D
the wheel.
Stand on
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Tommy Humphries on thu 13 oct 11
A lot of good tips on this subject, a couple more...
As has been stated, learn to set the speed and keep it there, especially =
=3D
when production throwing multiples of the same item. A second step in =3D
this process is to wire a foot activated interrupt switch either in the =3D
power cord, or in the cord from the control box to the motor. This will =3D
eliminate the need to reset the speed with every pot you throw.
Second make a brace to rest against, slightly higher than the wheel =3D
head. This will give something to brace against while centering, as well =
=3D
as a steadying guide for more intricate work. It can be as simple as a =3D
framework that resembles a sawhorse, or something more permanent =3D
attached to the wheel.
I will put up some photos of my wheel that has been modified for stand =3D
up production when I get the chance.
Tommy Humphries
Lili Krakowski on thu 13 oct 11
Three points that may have been brought up, but I have been--and will be =
=3D
again for a while--just lurking. If I repeat others' advice, =3D
apologies.
Do not finalize wheel height too soon. Get some bits of 2"x4", brick, =3D
whatever and try different heights....Try throwing different shapes as =3D
well...When you throw standing you swivel a lot more from the hips, not =3D
the waist. Be sure this height is really comfortable for, let us say, =3D
one hour of working at wheel.
Make yourself some little throwing platforms. Again 2 x4 s--mine are =3D
about 18" x 24" that you can stand on when it is easier to be a bit =3D
higher--as when finishing a tall pot or something.
And something I learned watching an NC potter. Move your foot pedal to =3D
your wheel table top, and SET IT!!! As all who learned on kick wheels =3D
know, one does not need to vary speed all the time. SET your pedal for =3D
centering, reset at need for opening and then for throwing. I throw =3D
from centering on at one SET speed. It takes a bit of practice, but it =3D
works...and is so much easier than standing off balance with the pedal =3D
under one foot.
And last, and again, and again, and again. Much injury is done by =3D
having too fast a throwing speed....This is something that came in with =3D
electric wheels, it can be dreadfully hard on body. Much easier on =3D
hands, wrists, back to slow the wheel down! I have seen people wrestle =3D
with lumps of clay, to center, to open, to keep pot centered as one =3D
throws....Don't do it. This is why your orthopedist has a new BMW and =3D
you drive a broken down F150-! I think my wheel goes around 40 =3D
revolutions per minute...
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Janet Moe on thu 13 oct 11
I have been throwing standing up for some time now. I have my wheel up on =
3
cinderblocks plus 1 small brick (total of 18 1/2"). I am 5'3''. I stand
with my right foot on the pedal on the floor and my left foot is raised up
to the same level on a brick platform as well. This keeps me balanced evenl=
y
on both feet and I have no problems doing it this way for hours. The
cinderblocks were going to be temporary until I got around to building leg
extensions but they work well. If I'm throwing something larger I just
remove the small bricks. This is an easy way to try it out.
Janet, on Vancouver Island
Ric Swenson on sat 15 oct 11
standing thowing up...or.....hehe
I have found that in demos...standing is the proper posture...I loved the L=
ockerbie wheel for that reason when teaching....brace the hip...pump the le=
g....work at eye height. Multi-tasking.
I have never had back problems...throwing...but I do use a mirror in front =
of my wheel so I do not have to bend my neck around to see the shape I am f=
orming.
Speed of throwing is as Lili K. Described it.....set speeds...no need to us=
e the foot pedal very much.
regards,
Ric
Richard H. ("Ric") Swenson, Teacher,
Office of International Cooperation and Exchange of Jingdezhen Ceramic Inst=
itute,
TaoYang Road, Eastern Suburb, Jingdezhen City.
JiangXi Province, P.R. of China.
Postal code 333001.
Mobile/cellular phone : 86 13767818872
< RicSwenson0823@hotmail.com>
> Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 21:44:39 -0500
> From: tommyhumphries@SBCGLOBAL.NET
> Subject: Re: Throwing standing up
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>
> A lot of good tips on this subject, a couple more...
>
> As has been stated, learn to set the speed and keep it there, especially =
when production throwing multiples of the same item. A second step in this =
process is to wire a foot activated interrupt switch either in the power co=
rd, or in the cord from the control box to the motor. This will eliminate t=
he need to reset the speed with every pot you throw.
>
> Second make a brace to rest against, slightly higher than the wheel head.=
This will give something to brace against while centering, as well as a st=
eadying guide for more intricate work. It can be as simple as a framework t=
hat resembles a sawhorse, or something more permanent attached to the wheel=
.
>
> I will put up some photos of my wheel that has been modified for stand up=
production when I get the chance.
>
> Tommy Humphries
douglas fur on sat 15 oct 11
Lili et al.
The wheel I'm using now has a wheel head at naval level. Like me it is an
eccentric crank type so I do stand on one foot with a padded hip rest to
lean into (as well as the front of the pan) and I have a rubber backed
carpet square to stand on. I intentionally keep my clay and thrown pots
away from the wheel so that a.) I don't try to copy the last pot and b.) I
have to move between each pot.
As for speed, if I try I might get up to 80rpm but most of the time I'm
working alot slower.
DRB
Seola Creek
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