Cynthia Semel on sun 30 jun 96
I collected all the advice I got on shrinkage, but soon realized that I
didn't know how thick to roll out the clay, and what shrinkage to account
for in the thickness of the tile.
Cynthia
David Harmony on sun 30 jun 96
Cynthia Semel wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I collected all the advice I got on shrinkage, but soon realized that I
> didn't know how thick to roll out the clay, and what shrinkage to account
> for in the thickness of the tile.
> Cynthia I roll mine no thinner than 1/4 ( thicker helps minimize the warping)
Don't foget that if you are doing something big like a table, each tile
weighs approx 1/2 lb. Make sure you reinforce the table!!!
Sarah
Paula Coleman on mon 1 jul 96
At 10:17 AM 6/30/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I collected all the advice I got on shrinkage, but soon realized that I
>didn't know how thick to roll out the clay, and what shrinkage to account
>for in the thickness of the tile.
>Cynthia
I do not find that it is necessary to be too precise about the thickness. I
make mine approximately 1/4 of an inch thick, but I don't actually measure it.
------------------------------------
Paula Coleman
Ceramic Artist
Email: potter@comcat.com
Web: http://www.comcat.com/~potter/
MR MICHAEL S FLOOD on fri 5 jul 96
Our studio is planning to produce tile, but we have encountered
problems in firing flat clay items. We are using a cone 6 buff clay
without much grog. Even if flat items are dried VERY slowly, the
items curl and warp in the cone 6 firing. These items were still
flat after the bisque firing, and so it seems like the problem occurs
at the high fire stage. When items are stilted, the curling is even
more pronounced.
I talked to the clay supplier, and they thought it was a problem in
not drying the items slowly enough, but if that were the case, I
would think the problem would occur at the bisque stage, not the cone
6 stage. Should we use a different clay body? Any ideas would be
welcome.
Thanks for your help.
Bridget Flood
Fireworks Pottery
St. Louis, MO
mel jacobson on fri 5 jul 96
At 12:11 PM 7/5/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Our studio is planning to produce tile, but we have encountered
>problems in firing flat clay items. We are using a cone 6 buff clay
>without much grog. Even if flat items are dried VERY slowly, the
>items curl and warp in the cone 6 firing. These items were still
>flat after the bisque firing, and so it seems like the problem occurs
>at the high fire stage. When items are stilted, the curling is even
>more pronounced.
>
>I talked to the clay supplier, and they thought it was a problem in
>not drying the items slowly enough, but if that were the case, I
>would think the problem would occur at the bisque stage, not the cone
>6 stage. Should we use a different clay body? Any ideas would be
>welcome.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
>Bridget Flood
>Fireworks Pottery
>St. Louis, MO
>
>a time honored method is to dry the items with a flat surface(such as
plywood) on top of the items with weighs on the plywood... i have done large
flat tiles this way and it worked. mel in minnesota ( I did a complete
wall in a home with 16 inch tiles... used two pieces of masonite from the
slab roller (brent) one on the bottom and one on top.. used concrete blocks
to hold them flat... then flipped them ... and it worked...mel)
Eric Lindgren on fri 5 jul 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Our studio is planning to produce tile, but we have encountered
>problems in firing flat clay items. We are using a cone 6 buff clay
>without much grog. Even if flat items are dried VERY slowly, the
>items curl and warp in the cone 6 firing. These items were still
>flat after the bisque firing, and so it seems like the problem occurs
>at the high fire stage. When items are stilted, the curling is even
>more pronounced.
>
>I talked to the clay supplier, and they thought it was a problem in
>not drying the items slowly enough, but if that were the case, I
>would think the problem would occur at the bisque stage, not the cone
>6 stage. Should we use a different clay body? Any ideas would be
>welcome.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
>Bridget Flood
>Fireworks Pottery
>St. Louis, MO
What can one say? It's not so simple... It's everything: the clay, drying,
the bisque firing, the glaze, the glaze firing. All can distort the tile.
First though you should have an open body: as little plastic material as
you can stand, ie. more grog and non-plastic items, or less plastic clays.
Plastic ingredients have 'memory' due to particle orientation and will
assert this memory in the firing. So your forming method is important. Also
the rate and method of drying...
You might consider a clay that slumps in the firing so that your shelves
make the tiles flat. In a fast fire the slumping will be less useful. Glaze
fit can warp a tile: either humping or cupping (two terms we find useful).
It took us about a year, six years ago, to get the tiles reasonably flat.
And we're still learning.
Good Luck,
Eric Lindgren
lindgren@muskoka.com
____________________
David Harmony on fri 5 jul 96
MR MICHAEL S FLOOD wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Our studio is planning to produce tile, but we have encountered
> problems in firing flat clay items. We are using a cone 6 buff clay
> without much grog. Even if flat items are dried VERY slowly, the
> items curl and warp in the cone 6 firing. These items were still
> flat after the bisque firing, and so it seems like the problem occurs
> at the high fire stage. When items are stilted, the curling is even
> more pronounced.
>
> I talked to the clay supplier, and they thought it was a problem in
> not drying the items slowly enough, but if that were the case, I
> would think the problem would occur at the bisque stage, not the cone
> 6 stage. Should we use a different clay body? Any ideas would be
> welcome.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bridget Flood
> Fireworks Pottery
> St. Louis, MOWhat is the thickness of the tile? I think the advise you got wa
I dry mine in plastic sleeves between wall board for 3-6 weeks
(depending on the air humidity). I have very little problem with
warping, but what warping I have occurs in the glaze firing. I compensate
when grouting and always make 20-25% more tile than I will use.
Sarah
Jean Lehman on sat 6 jul 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Our studio is planning to produce tile, but we have encountered
>problems in firing flat clay items.
Bridget,
Because the clay has memory, you also need to be sure that you don't bend
the clay as it is being rolled out. Roll it flat and keep it flat. Turn it
onto a board and carefully lift the canvas from the clay instead of lifting
the clay off the canvas.
Another thing that might help is a hint that Otto Heino suggested to me
many years ago when I visited his studio and complained that my flat pieces
were warping -- he said that it helps to roll the clay in all four
directions. Warping is less when you use a rolling pin because you
automatically go all four directions. But when using a clay roller it is
tempting to only roll back and forth. So, I started turning it sideways and
rolling it all four ways and my warping stopped.
These things plus slow drying and placing between pieces of drywall should
do the trick.
Good luck.
Jean
j_lehman@acad.FandM.EDU (that's an _underscore_ not a hyphen)
Carl Ross on fri 16 aug 96
Hi All,
I am looking at making tile for an entry way to our shop. My only concerns
are what clay and glaze I should use for a high traffic area. It is a rather
small area, so I'm not worried about making them by hand. I would like to
use a red clay if possible and maybe mixing with a white for a layered
effect. Are there any problems with using earthenware for such an
application? I'll be laying cement board first, so I'm not worried about the
foundation. Also what's the best thing to do to the back side of the tile? I
noticed when we layed tile in our kitchen it was almost imprinted with 1/2
inch squares every 1/4". Would there be any problem with letting the tile
dry, spraying the back with water, and then scraping over it with a notched
rib?
Maybe a mold of some sort would also help.
Any suggestions are much appreciated,
Carl in Phillips
"Ronald Galyen - Teacher - Mt. Carmel Elem RGALYEN" on sat 17 aug 96
Hi Carl,
Let me comment with parts of your letter.
> I am looking at making tile for an entry way to our shop.
+I made tiles for an entry way for our 120 yr. old home.
> My only concerns are what clay and glaze I should use for a high
>traffic area.
+I chose a stoneware clay, because it is my understanding that the higher
firing is the more durable for pots. So I would imagine it would apply
for tiles. (Also, it is the same clay I normally use for pots.)
>It is a rather small area, so I'm not worried about making them by
hand.
+My tiles were a little less than 2" X 4" and I planned the layout
(herringbone) and cut edge pieces while leather hard. Allowing a few
extra for possible breakage, I had slightly over 300 individual pieces.
What this means is that each small movement or action of even a few
seconds, when multiplied by 300, soon added up to quite a time consuming
project. If I did it again, I would make all tiles complete and cut them
after they were fired like regular commercial tiles. I would also use a
larger tile so there would be fewer individual movements.(But smaller
tiles means less problems with warped tiles) All together this
translates to less total time to cover the same area.
>snip
> I'll be laying cement board first, so I'm not worried about the
> foundation.
+So did I, it works great.
> Also what's the best thing to do to the back side of the tile? I
> noticed when we layed tile in our kitchen it was almost imprinted with 1/2
> inch squares every 1/4". Would there be any problem with letting the tile
> dry, spraying the back with water, and then scraping over it with a notched
> rib?
+The rib idea sounds good, I used a small loop tool to incise
approximately parallel grooves in the backs while leather hard. It is my
understanding that this type of treatment gives additional surface area
for adhesive.
> Maybe a mold of some sort would also help.
+I have also used press molds for tile that I wanted a patterned surface.
They take much longer than cut slabs.
+Hope my experience may be of some help. It was a lot of work, and I'm not
sure that I would do it the same way if I would do it at all. But I am
glad I did it. It looks very nice and has gotten lots of compliments.
Good luck,
Ron
===================================
= Ronald W.Galyen =
= rgalyen@mars.esc.k12.in.us =
= Brookville, Indiana, U.S.A. =
===================================
PJLewing@aol.com on sat 17 aug 96
Carl,
I would not recommend using low-fire majolica as a floor tile decorating
technique. It has 2 drawbacks.
#1. The decoration is all on the surface and so will wear off much faster
than a glaze decoration, an underglaze decoration or (the most durable) a
decoration or color that goes all the way through the tile.
#2. It is true that the higher a ceramic piece is fired, the more durable
the finished product will be. This is due to the increased formation of
mullite crystals the higher you go. Also, the glazes can be harder. The
glaze element most resistant to abrasion is alumina, and next is silica. The
higher you fire, the more of those two you can get into your glaze.
I would recommend that, if you want to decorate floor tile in a manner
similar to your majolica technique, that you do slips or oxides under a glaze
as clear as you can find that is not real glossy. A glossy glaze will be
slippery when wet. And don't use slips thick enough to leave a raised line.
Those will wear off.
Happy Tiling
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Carl Ross on sat 17 aug 96
Hi Everyone,
I'll Probably try just lightly kneading the red and white so it's not
uniformly mixed throughout and slice off tile-thick slabs which i'll trim to
the right size when leather hard, an score the back.
Does any one have any suggestions as to what commercially sold glaze would
work good on it? On our kitchen floor, we are supposed to seal it with some
special silicone sealer which improves water repellence and simplifies
cleaning, the tile itself looked like terra cotta on the back, but was glazed
with an opaque, almost semi gloss glaze. I'm not to the point where I can
experiment with making my own glazes, so I really am looking for a clear
glaze I can buy for such an application. any Ideas?
The sealer is made by Custom Building Products, who also make the grout and
mastic, however, the tile was made by some other company (made in mexico) and
seemed no different from the various samples of terra cotta I've had fired in
a low fire kiln.
My latest thought is buying the greater part of the tiles bisque and 12" from
some supplier and filling in the cracks with my tiles. That way, I'll have
contributed my bit, and the floor will have a strong back bone.
I have to go,
any suggestions much appreciated,
Carl in Phillips
Beverly Crist on sun 18 aug 96
Hi Carl, Patsy, and all others interested in tile,
I took a workshop this Summer with Peter King at Stonehaus on tile making and
installation. (Peter King, Stonehaus, 2617 N. 12 Ave., Pensacola, FL 32503;
904/438-3273) It was information-packed and wonderful. Peter works with
handmade, stoneware, big, thick and heavy tiles. He does not score the back
of the tiles to aid with adhesion but instead uses a thinset with a latex
additive in it and his tiles stay up. An example would be Laticrete
Multicrete Thinset. I saw him do some incredible installations with plain
backed tiles. He has written a number of articles about tile making and
installation, and one, "Making Tile by Hand", Fine Home Building, Oct/Nov
1989, shows him using a sort of "cookie cutter" to make tile. It is aluminum
and he had it made by a metal fabricator. Another great source of information
on making tile is Frank Giorgini's book "Hand Made Tile".
Carl, from the limited amount of tile making that I have done, I would
suggest that you go with your idea of using the purchased Mexican tile and
combining it with your hand made tile. But glaze your tile and just seal the
Mexican.
Best of Luck, Beverly
Karen Lookenott on sat 7 apr 01
I would like to make some tiles that I could use outside to cover my
concrete patio. My though is that I would buy different colored stoneware
clay and do both slab and some extrusions to make my own tiles. My question
is, do I need to put anything on the tiles. I really don't want to do a
normal glaze on them because I think it might make them to slick when they
are wet. Would the tiles hold up without anything on them, or should I use
something to coat them? I would appreciate any input you might have.
Janet Kaiser on sun 8 apr 01
Dear Karen
It depends very much on the climate where you live.
Here in a very wet but otherwise mild Wales about
twenty feet from the ocean, we have to use vitrified
clay so it does not absorb water. The SALT fall-out
being the main problem.
If you are not on the coast, you will not have this
problem, so you can choose. Most patio tiles are a
course earthenware. If you want to glaze, use a matt
one. It does not mean you cannot use high-gloss
glaze... Just make sure you incise or impress patterns
so that you create a skid-brake.
Janet Kaiser
The Chapel of Art . Capel Celfyddyd
HOME OF THE INTERNATIONAL POTTERS' PATH
Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales Tel: (01766) 523570
E-mail: postbox@the-coa.org.uk
WEBSITE: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
----- Original Message -----
> I would like to make some tiles that I could use
outside to cover my
> concrete patio. My though is that I would buy
different colored stoneware
> clay and do both slab and some extrusions to make my
own tiles. My question
> is, do I need to put anything on the tiles. I really
don't want to do a
> normal glaze on them because I think it might make
them to slick when they
> are wet. Would the tiles hold up without anything on
them, or should I use
> something to coat them? I would appreciate any input
you might have.
>
>
_______________________________________________________
_______________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Nancy B on sat 22 jul 06
Hi ... I just read your post about tile and wanted to share my experience
with you.
The studio I used to be at we had a girl who made tile for her kitchen, her
hearth for her fireplace and her entry way...warping was not an issue and
this is why.
She added grog to the clay even though she was using a heavily grogged clay.
She did a lot of shapes and used cookie cutters and her key was using
copper only and to freeze them first. Then she would cut them on roof tar
paper and just pull the waste clay off, not moving the tiles. These were
then stacked between drywall and set for weeks to dry.
Cutting square tiles was done the same. The last pass through the slab
roller was on canvas, then she scored the slab with a fork (to allow for
mortar) and stacked them on tar paper scored side down (she just flipped them).
I tried this method and warping did not happen. Also cone 06 and cone 6 firing.
When we talked about it, we talked about clay having a memory and when you
move tile pieces around and lift edges, corners, etc. The clay remembers
and no matter how flat you dry it...you have the risk of rolling/lifting.
I hope this helps and gives a tip that may help.
Nancy
Hilltop Pottery
Sheryl McMonigal on tue 7 nov 06
rikki,
I've had a similar problem andd it may be you glaze's fit to the clay body
you are using. I used b3 brown from laguna and evidently it is very picky
about the glaze that goes on it. some clays want glaze on front and back or
basicly no glaze at all. since it is cracking during the glaze fire and not
the bisque fire. usually manufacturers of clays will have a stat sheet and
will give info on what your clay likes best to be made into. thrown tiles
sculptural. laguna has an excellent site on their clays and glazes. look
for the clays that like to be made into tiles. another happening may be
fired too high. check you cones. I also rotate my tiles when drying I will
stack them 10 high and rotate and dry slowly. even though they did not
crack during bisque they may still have stress points. hope this helps.
but definitely look into the glaze shrinking more than clay. try different
glazes.
sheryl mc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rikki Gill"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: tile
> Hi Sheryl,
>
> Actually, I am making my tiles at this point. This last firing I had
three
> cracks out of a twelve piece tile painting. Two can be hidden, but the
> third is deeper. None ever split the tile in two, at least not so far.
> I dry the tile slowly between pieces of sheet rock, with weights on top.
> No cracks are visible after the bisque.
>
> Thanks Rikki
>
>
> Rikki Gill
> rikigil@cwnet.com
> www.rikkigillceramics.com
> www.berkeleypotters.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sheryl McMonigal"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 5:52 PM
> Subject: Re: tile
>
>
> > rikki,
> >
> > are you saying you are buying tiles already made (bisqued tiles) then
> > glazing?
> > sheryl Mc.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rikki Gill"
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:18 PM
> > Subject: tile
> >
> >
> >> Hi Everyone,
> >>
> >> I am a novice tile maker these days. I love the way the tile I have
> >> made
> >> looks when it is glazed, but I am getting some cracks. Enough to be
> >> discouraging. I have a few questions for those with similar interests.
> >>
> >> Is bisque tile available in high firing porcelain clay? Or white
> > stoneware?
> >> I go to cone eleven, but can lower to 10 if necessary. I live in
> >> northern
> >> California, and would buy some if it was possible.
> >>
> >> Can cracks be fixed? I have had some sucess filling them in with
colored
> >> grout.
> >> It is pretty tricky, though.
> >>
> >> Any information would be very welcome.
> >>
> >> Thanks, Rikki
> >>
> >>
> >> rikigil@cwnet.com
> >> www.rikkigillceramics.com
> >> www.berkeleypotters.com
> >>
> >>
> >
____________________________________________________________________________
> > __
> >> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >>
> >> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >>
> >> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date:
11/4/2006
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Rikki Gill on tue 7 nov 06
Hi Everyone,
I am a novice tile maker these days. I love the way the tile I have made
looks when it is glazed, but I am getting some cracks. Enough to be
discouraging. I have a few questions for those with similar interests.
Is bisque tile available in high firing porcelain clay? Or white stoneware?
I go to cone eleven, but can lower to 10 if necessary. I live in northern
California, and would buy some if it was possible.
Can cracks be fixed? I have had some sucess filling them in with colored
grout.
It is pretty tricky, though.
Any information would be very welcome.
Thanks, Rikki
rikigil@cwnet.com
www.rikkigillceramics.com
www.berkeleypotters.com
Sheryl McMonigal on tue 7 nov 06
rikki,
are you saying you are buying tiles already made (bisqued tiles) then
glazing?
sheryl Mc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rikki Gill"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:18 PM
Subject: tile
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am a novice tile maker these days. I love the way the tile I have made
> looks when it is glazed, but I am getting some cracks. Enough to be
> discouraging. I have a few questions for those with similar interests.
>
> Is bisque tile available in high firing porcelain clay? Or white
stoneware?
> I go to cone eleven, but can lower to 10 if necessary. I live in northern
> California, and would buy some if it was possible.
>
> Can cracks be fixed? I have had some sucess filling them in with colored
> grout.
> It is pretty tricky, though.
>
> Any information would be very welcome.
>
> Thanks, Rikki
>
>
> rikigil@cwnet.com
> www.rikkigillceramics.com
> www.berkeleypotters.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Anne Webb on tue 7 nov 06
hey rikki..
I believe Dal tile has a bisque tile that you can fire to cone 6.. perhaps
higher (?).
Its been years since I have ordered bisque tile, so you might like to
contact the manufacturer/distributor directly for more details. Their tiles
are lovely as I remember.
Seeley's also has stoneware bisque tiles that fire to cone 5.
Sorry I don't have any direct contact info for you re these manufacturers
but you might like to check with your local tile distributors as they can
most likely order you what you need.
Would like to hear how you make out. Never know when one might need this
kind of info.
All the best. Anne
>From: Sheryl McMonigal
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: tile
>Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2006 17:52:40 -0800
>
>rikki,
>
>are you saying you are buying tiles already made (bisqued tiles) then
>glazing?
>sheryl Mc.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rikki Gill"
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:18 PM
>Subject: tile
>
>
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > I am a novice tile maker these days. I love the way the tile I have
>made
> > looks when it is glazed, but I am getting some cracks. Enough to be
> > discouraging. I have a few questions for those with similar interests.
> >
> > Is bisque tile available in high firing porcelain clay? Or white
>stoneware?
> > I go to cone eleven, but can lower to 10 if necessary. I live in
>northern
> > California, and would buy some if it was possible.
> >
> > Can cracks be fixed? I have had some sucess filling them in with
>colored
> > grout.
> > It is pretty tricky, though.
> >
> > Any information would be very welcome.
> >
> > Thanks, Rikki
> >
> >
> > rikigil@cwnet.com
> > www.rikkigillceramics.com
> > www.berkeleypotters.com
> >
> >
>____________________________________________________________________________
>__
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
Get today's hot entertainment gossip
http://movies.msn.com/movies/hotgossip?icid=T002MSN03A07001
Rikki Gill on tue 7 nov 06
Hi Sheryl,
Actually, I am making my tiles at this point. This last firing I had three
cracks out of a twelve piece tile painting. Two can be hidden, but the
third is deeper. None ever split the tile in two, at least not so far.
I dry the tile slowly between pieces of sheet rock, with weights on top.
No cracks are visible after the bisque.
Thanks Rikki
Rikki Gill
rikigil@cwnet.com
www.rikkigillceramics.com
www.berkeleypotters.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sheryl McMonigal"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: tile
> rikki,
>
> are you saying you are buying tiles already made (bisqued tiles) then
> glazing?
> sheryl Mc.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rikki Gill"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:18 PM
> Subject: tile
>
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> I am a novice tile maker these days. I love the way the tile I have
>> made
>> looks when it is glazed, but I am getting some cracks. Enough to be
>> discouraging. I have a few questions for those with similar interests.
>>
>> Is bisque tile available in high firing porcelain clay? Or white
> stoneware?
>> I go to cone eleven, but can lower to 10 if necessary. I live in
>> northern
>> California, and would buy some if it was possible.
>>
>> Can cracks be fixed? I have had some sucess filling them in with colored
>> grout.
>> It is pretty tricky, though.
>>
>> Any information would be very welcome.
>>
>> Thanks, Rikki
>>
>>
>> rikigil@cwnet.com
>> www.rikkigillceramics.com
>> www.berkeleypotters.com
>>
>>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006
>
>
Bonnie Staffel on wed 8 nov 06
Rikki, I used the lower fired bisque tiles (probably a Cone 6?) and I =
glazed
and fired them to Cone 9. The necessary thing to do here is to lay them
flat on a very non-warped kiln shelf. I made a lot of these. Some of =
my
shelves weren't too badly warped and used them and I got enough good =
tiles
out to complete an order for a bathroom surround to match the sink. =20
I saved some of the tiles that were not so badly warped by purchasing =
wide
frames and set them up with grout around the gap. They sure do shrink =
at
that high temperature. =20
I also would like to find some bisqued tiles to fire to Cone 9-10 even =
if
they are thicker. I do not have the room in my studio to handle them =
during
the drying process. =20
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Paul Lewing on wed 8 nov 06
On Nov 7, 2006, at 12:18 PM, Rikki Gill wrote:
Is bisque tile available in high firing porcelain clay? Or white
stoneware?
I go to cone eleven, but can lower to 10 if necessary.
Ricki, I have only ever seen one unglazed bisque tile that will go to
cone 10. They are called Toucan Tiles, and I think the only place
you can get them is Clay Art Center, in Tacoma,WA
(www.clayartcenter.net). They are not white, more like white
stoneware, and a little iron spotting if you fire in reduction- quite
yellow body in oxidation. They are also about 1/2" thick.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
Paul Lewing on wed 8 nov 06
On Nov 7, 2006, at 5:42 PM, Anne Webb wrote:
I believe Dal tile has a bisque tile that you can fire to cone 6..
perhaps
higher (?).
Not really well. The Dal tile ones will warp badly at cone 6, if
they're not supported, a good proportion of them will crack (I've had
as much as 25% loss in some batches I've tried) and not all of your
glazes will work on them. The ones with low Si:Al ratios (usually
the matte glazes) will just seem to sink right into them. What you
get is a colored texture just like the unglazed bisque. The more
glossy glazes, especially if you put them on thick may be OK.
I use H&R Johnson (see the HBD Ceramic ad in CM) tiles, but they are
very thin, and I only fire to cone 4. They sag badly at that
temperature unless they're supported, but they survive OK and take
the glazes well. All the glazed 6" tiles of mine that you may have
seen (as opposed to my china painted work) in the last 5-10 years or
so have been on those tiles.
Seeley's also has stoneware bisque tiles that fire to cone 5.
I need to know more about these. What sizes, what color are they,
and where do I get some to try?
Thanks,
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
Rikki Gill on thu 9 nov 06
Thanks to everyone who responded to my email. I am still working at making
a descent tile in my studio. I think the best tile is made with a ram
press, I think that is what it is called, but old fashioned hands-on tile
can work as well.
Best to all,
Rikki
rikigil@cwnet.com
www.rikkigillceramics.com
www.berkeleypotters.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bonnie Staffel"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: tile
>I am also interested in high fire bisque tiles. Looked up the Clayart
> Center in Tacoma and found no tiles in the Cone 10 range. Only sinks
> were
> presented under the Tile and Bisque category. One can buy clay from them
> suitable for tiles though.
>
> Bonnie Staffel
>
> http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
> http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
> DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
> DVD Beginning Processes
> Charter Member Potters Council
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006
>
>
Bonnie Staffel on thu 9 nov 06
I am also interested in high fire bisque tiles. Looked up the Clayart
Center in Tacoma and found no tiles in the Cone 10 range. Only sinks were
presented under the Tile and Bisque category. One can buy clay from them
suitable for tiles though.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Timothy Joko-Veltman on fri 10 nov 06
On 11/10/06, Rikki Gill wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my email. I am still working at making
> a descent tile in my studio. I think the best tile is made with a ram
> press, I think that is what it is called, but old fashioned hands-on tile
> can work as well.
A bit of a late reply, here, but I recently had some success with some tiles.
Here's what we did:
- to a normal plastic clay body (white, in this case), we first added
20% clean sand - this is hard work so we're actually thinking of
changing to a body that already has a lot of sand in it. I don't know
the mesh (we always go to the same place to get it), but it was
neither very coarse nor very fine sand.
- open a slab - ours was 11mm thick.
- use one of those "serrated" cement scrapers to make parallel lines
on the back. This helps the tile stick to the wall, and also seems to
help keep it from warping.
- cut the tile (we have a tile cutter ... need to put corn starch on
the surface before cutting with one of those).
- let dry with newspaper above, below, and bats on both sides ... make
sure there is weight on top of it. They take about a week to be come
hard leather-hard, at which point, you can set them out to dry - in
the sun, if you want.
We had very little warpage, and what there was was acceptable (maybe
not for industry, but certainly for hand-crafted tiles). There was
only about 8% total shrinkage, which is excellent. We used 9kg of
clay and 1.8kg of sand, and with a little left over (about 1-1.5kg),
we were able to make about 20 tiles.
Hope I was able to add something.
Cheers,
Tim
Stephani Stephenson on fri 10 nov 06
On 11/10/06, Rikki Gill wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my email. I am still working at
making
> a descent tile in my studio. I think the best tile is made with a ram
> press, I think that is what it is called, but old fashioned hands-on
tile
> can work as well.
Hi Rikki
first of all, I just saw the news about the Potter's Council conference
up in Berkeley in January.
It sounds wonderful and best wishes for a wildly successful and
enjoyable conference!!!!
OK ..tile... such a simple word!!!
Old fashioned handmade tile is beautiful, abundant and can be made in
any studio without need of a ram press.
but....to describe the process via email .... how to make tile ...
ah , it can get fairly involved, as involved as the answer to the
question...How do I make a pot?.
so , a good first step might be a hands on workshop , or Frank
Georgini's book 'Handmade Tile" which is a great illustrated guide
and has been the first step for many a contemporary tilemaker.
a few general tips...if you are having problems and a certain % of your
tiles are cracking
.. you can make more tile than you need and discard the cracked
ones, especially if the % is relatively low.
or address the causes for cracking.
the archives are chock full, I mean brimming with posts on this
topic, it comes around every few months and there have been volumes
written about it.
many of the posts address drying rituals, but my advice is , if your
clay body is problematic, really problematic
a first solution is to add grog.
. What clay are you using? If commercial, does it come in a version
with added % of grog?
if you are making a small quantity of tile, additions of grog fiber or
paper may help... but claybody is an entire topic in itself....
Sometimes a throwing body works well as a tile body..mels clay body for
example worked great . but other throwing bodies and even sculpture
bodies are problematic.
A good tile body may have 20-30% grog but agan , that isn't the whole
story. you may want to modify the bidy you are using so you can
maintain a similar glaze response.
another option is to try making smaller tiles. many clays make a
wonderful 3" or 4" tile but then get problematic when you get to a 6"
size. so changing size may alleviate the problem..
hand pressing tile is also an option, as is extruding.
compressing clay into a form ... a different dynamic as opposed to
rolling it out with a slab roller.
but yes , it can work...myself and many others make a living based on
that premise! :)
Remember too, tiles vary as much as pots.
commercial tiles are somewhat deceptive in the promise they give us.
they are made via dust pressing and in automated factories that would
blow your mind... no hands touch them! there is little to no water in
the clay , ever!
so thats why they can be made so precise and thin.
also , commercial "4 inch " tiles measure 4 1/4" square and about 1/8
to 1/4 inch thick, while the old handmade 4" tile is a 'nominal' size,
which means a 4 X 4 is actually 3 3/4"- 3 7/8" fired , also allows
for larger grout lines working on 4" centers.
that tile is often 1/2 to 5/8 "thick.
if you are working with paper clay or perhaps a porcelain or other
smooth body you may get away with working thinner.
I don't know what clay you work with or what your vision is of what you
want in a tile.
there are so many lovely variations. I won't say "don't do this"
because I have seen so many people working in unique and unexpected
ways and making lovely tile in all shapes and sizes.
There are many resources out there for you , i.e. good "trail guides"
as to what has worked for others in the long story of tile.
best wishes
Stephani Stephenson
steph@revivaltileworks.com
http://www.revivaltileworks.com
| |
|
