Mervyn and Kaye Mitchell on sat 19 apr 97
ARE THERE ANY TILE MAKERS OUT THERE?
I'm sure this topic has been aired on Clayart many times before, but I
would be extremely grateful for any recommendations of good books or other
sources of information on any aspects of ceramic tile making. I'm
especially interested in how best to prevent warp during drying/firing,
techniques for silk-screening glazes, and how to achieve maximum packing
efficiency in the kiln when glost firing at stoneware temperatures.
In anticipation, thanks!
Mervyn Mitchell
Vancouver Island
BC
Canada
mkmitch@mars.ark.com
Crystal Larson on sun 20 apr 97
I would like to recommend a book called Handmade Tiles by Frank Giorgini
published by Lark Books. It is a wonder resource book with lots of good
information, tips, photographs to die for and I use my copy a lot for both
inspiration and insight as well as practical knowledge. It does discuss
glazing and firings so that should help you on your quest. This book is
still in print and for $24.95 you get a lot for your money.
Hope it helps.
Crystal Larson
woosblue@aol.com
Amy Taylor on mon 21 apr 97
Mervyn,
You may be interested in a book called "Handmade Tiles" by Frank
Giorgini. It doesn't go into too much detail on the technical side, but is a
fairly comprehensive overview of different tile making approaches/techniques
and includes plans for a small, easy to build tile press. It also has tons
of great pictures of all sorts of tiles, reason alone to buy it in my
opinion! Also, if you haven't already, check out the very cool "tiles on the
web" site. Feel free to e-mail me directly for add'l info if you like.
Rod Taylor
Procter, B.C.
Lisa or Ginny on mon 21 apr 97
Mervyn and Kaye Mitchell wrote:
>
> res joe
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ARE THERE ANY TILE MAKERS OUT THERE?
>
> I'm sure this topic has been aired on Clayart many times before, but I
> would be extremely grateful for any recommendations of good books or other
> sources of information on any aspects of ceramic tile making.
Me too, and I have a question: We're going to build a house, and my
contractor is counting on ME for foyer tiles. What is the concensus of
the masses here: Will cone 6 tiles be sturdy enough? Also, should there
be groove things on the back, and how thick should they be? Thanks in
advance. Oops, I lied; that was more than one question.
--
Lisa Skeen
Living Tree Pottery
Greensboro, NC
YesIAmRU?
Email: lpskeen@nr.infi.net
Pat Wehrman on tue 22 apr 97
Check out Tiles on the Web-
http://www.aimnet.com/~tcolson/webtiles.htm
This is one of the most informative sites on the internet about tiles, with tips
from tile makers, how to info and book lists.
You'll love it.
Marget and Peter Lippincott on wed 23 apr 97
Lisa or Ginny wrote:
..
>
> Me too, and I have a question: We're going to build a house, and my
> contractor is counting on ME for foyer tiles. What is the concensus of
> the masses here: Will cone 6 tiles be sturdy enough?
Yes
Also, should there
> be groove things on the back, and how thick should they be?
I have not found grooves to be necessary. In my work thickness is a
function of tile size. Up to 4" I make them 5/16"; then up to 9" I make
them 3/8". Over that I make them 1/2 - 3/4" thick.
Hope this helps.
Peter Lippincott, the mudpuppy
Thanks in
> advance. Oops, I lied; that was more than one question.
>
> --
> Lisa Skeen
> Living Tree Pottery
> Greensboro, NC
> YesIAmRU?
> Email: lpskeen@nr.infi.net
Ric Swenson on fri 25 apr 97
Hi there folks!
From what I remember about tiles... and tile design from a strictly
functional point....there are at least two reasons that manufacturers put
"groovey things" on the back of tile...
1.) it is supposed to help keep the tiles from warping during manufacture.
2.) It increases the surface area of the tile on the back and the
installers like this because the tile stay where they put them.... ie.
they stick / bond better to the subfloor material
Anyone else?
Ric
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Lisa or Ginny wrote:
>.
>>
>> Me too, and I have a question: We're going to build a house, and my
>> contractor is counting on ME for foyer tiles. What is the concensus of
>> the masses here: Will cone 6 tiles be sturdy enough?
>Yes
> Also, should there
>> be groove things on the back, and how thick should they be?
>I have not found grooves to be necessary. In my work thickness is a
>function of tile size. Up to 4" I make them 5/16"; then up to 9" I make
>them 3/8". Over that I make them 1/2 - 3/4" thick.
>Hope this helps.
>
>Peter Lippincott, the mudpuppy
> Thanks in
>> advance. Oops, I lied; that was more than one question.
>>
>> --
>> Lisa Skeen
>> Living Tree Pottery
>> Greensboro, NC
>> YesIAmRU?
>> Email: lpskeen@nr.infi.net
Laura Freedman on wed 14 jul 99
I am planning to make some floor tiles for my kitchen. Does it make any
difference whether I use ^6 or ^10 body as long as I fire them to their
max? What kind of body would be best? How thick should the floor tiles be?
How could I make sure it was skid proof, or at least almost skid proof? I
have looked at a fancy wholesale tile store and they seem to measure the
tiles by a number scoring 1-5 or 6 with 6 being the most durable and seems
mostly porcelain with varying thicknesses. Can anyone explain what the
difference is, the saleswoman didn't have a clue. Before I start on this
enormous project I could use some advice. TIA laura
David Webster on fri 16 jul 99
Laura,
I've done a little tile making and i have a good floor tile nody that I got
from my days at alfred. it's ^6 but a little expensive. As for the
durability it has nothing to do with the temperature you fire to but the
engineering of the clay body.
You may want to be careful where you put it because it will for sure be
slippery. The only way i know to cut down on the slip is to increase the
texture but that may make it hard to clean up.
If you want that clay body let me know.
I hope that this has been a little bit of a help!
Jacqueline
Marion Barnes-Schwartz. on fri 16 jul 99
Laura,
The floor tiles I make are 1/2 inch thick, moist. I've made tiles
both out of unglazed terracotta and glazed stoneware. To help a glazed tile
from being slippery it's best not to use a gloss or even semi-gloss glaze.
Matt is the best.
Marion
Gary & Carla Goldberg on fri 16 jul 99
Laura - Floor tile is always thicker than wall tile, so it can stand up
to the wear and tear. Commercial wall tile is usually around 1/4 inch
thick. The floor tile is 1/16 to 1/8 thicker than that.
Regarding skid proofing - I'm not sure how commercial tiles do it. The
tile in my studio seems like they mixed sand into the glaze to make it
skid resistant. I'm not sure which way the numbers go (1-6), but the
more "skid resistant" it is, the higher/lower the number. I don't think
it actually measures anything, it's just a guideline. My old studio had
smooth tile and I definitely recommend you do whatever it is you need
to do to make the tiles skid proof. A lot of the commercial tiles use
terra cotta and then glaze over it. Of course, most of those come from
Mexico.
Good Luck! You will have lots of work ahead of you. I tiled the
countertop of my old house using slip and molds.
Carla, in Alaska - where all I do is water and water my new lawn.
Laura Freedman wrote:
> How thick should the floor tiles be?
> How could I make sure it was skid proof, or at least almost skid proof? I have
Linda Blossom on fri 16 jul 99
The thickness has so do with the size of the tiles. A five or six inch tile
can be between about 3/8" thick. I don't know that it matters whether it is
glossy or mat when it is wet since both will be slick. However, glossy can
be slick when it is humid so know your weather. The strength of the glaze
is important to stand up to traffic and shoes. I have used glossy glazes and
do not have a problem with scratching. Probably have better glazes than
commercial tiles. Hopefully you are using a clay body that is made for tile
or sculpture so warping is less of an issue. You can make the tiles and
then stack them for drying. You will need to press each tile gently with a
flat board so that the stack goes up evenly and so that each one sticks to
the previously one a bit. You can dry them in the sun this way. The stack
can be from 3 to 8 tiles high. When they are dry just pop them apart. They
will dry flat this way.
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd
Ithaca, NY 14850
607-539-7912
blossom@twcny.rr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Laura Freedman
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 9:35 AM
Subject: tile making
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I am planning to make some floor tiles for my kitchen. Does it make any
difference whether I use ^6 or ^10 body as long as I fire them to their
max? What kind of body would be best? How thick should the floor tiles be?
How could I make sure it was skid proof, or at least almost skid proof? I
have looked at a fancy wholesale tile store and they seem to measure the
tiles by a number scoring 1-5 or 6 with 6 being the most durable and seems
mostly porcelain with varying thicknesses. Can anyone explain what the
difference is, the saleswoman didn't have a clue. Before I start on this
enormous project I could use some advice. TIA laura
Edmund B Burke on fri 16 jul 99
Laura Freedman wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am planning to make some floor tiles for my kitchen. Does it make any
> difference whether I use ^6 or ^10 body as long as I fire them to their
> max? What kind of body would be best? How thick should the floor tiles be?
> How could I make sure it was skid proof, or at least almost skid proof? I
> have looked at a fancy wholesale tile store and they seem to measure the
> tiles by a number scoring 1-5 or 6 with 6 being the most durable and seems
> mostly porcelain with varying thicknesses. Can anyone explain what the
> difference is, the saleswoman didn't have a clue. Before I start on this
> enormous project I could use some advice. TIA laura
Hi Laura-- I recently attended a tile making workshop and will share
some of my new found knowledge with you...
First of all, be sure you use a scuptling clay, not a throwing clay and
do not wedge the clay. If you want it to be waterproof such as in a
kitchen and durable, such as on a floor, you must fire the clay to
whatever is the vitreous point for that body--consult the manufacturer.
The grout you use is also critical if you want a water-tight seal. Check
with your local tile supplier.
I also recommend the book Handmade Tiles published by Lark--it has great
information.
Lynne in Atlanta
"Terry Sullivan/Nottingham Center for the Arts. San Marcos," on sun 18 jul 99
OK I'm gonna jump in here and hope you all take it in the spirit of well
meaning and not an attack on clay and/or tile making etc.
The making/glazing and decorating of tiles is a wonderful part of ceramics.
Just had Paul Lewing for an incredible week of low and mid range fire tile
workshop,
However; if what you are up to is making a lot of tile, like hundreds of sq.
ft., to tile a service floor, such as a studio, and making large quantities
of tile isn't what you do, then it's probably a waste of time.
Don't get me wrong. If you got lots of time and really want to do it then go
for it.
What I'd like to point out is that there are thousands of veried and
beautiful floor tiles available in the USA from all over the world.
Any fair sized city will have several tile stores with lots of stuff to
choose from. I gaurantee you will be amazed at what is out there.
Years ago I had a large ceramic tile contracting business and retail
showrooms.
There were hundreds of great floor tiles to choose from.
Since then the veriety of tiles available has increased 100 fold.
Have a friend who spent months making over 1500 sq. ft. of ten inch hexagonal
stoneware tile for her custom home. Amazing work. Incredible expense. All for
a look which was available from several tile mfg.s at half the price and you
could not tell the difference.
I ain't sayin you shouldn't make your own. Only take a look at what it is you
want and what the actual cost of getting it is and then make an informed
choise.
Terry Sullivan
Nottingham Center for the Arts
San Marcos, CA
Personal email to Go2tms@aol.com
Alice Chittenden on fri 23 jul 99
On July 16th, Lynne in Atlanta wrote that in a recent workshop she had
been told to use only sculpture clay bodies and not to wedge them.
Lynne, I'm curious who the instructor was but, more importantly, do you
remember why these instructions were given?
Alice, anticipating another heat wave in dry, dry Connecticut
Ingeborg Foco on sat 7 feb 04
Stephani said " hmmm, I wonder if it has to do with porosity, to some
degree?
> Saltillo tiles, fairly porous tile, for example, are usually flat on
> the back,as are many types of brick
> highly vitrified and impervious quarry tiles, often have fairly deep
> grooves in the backs....
>
> Dat , I dunno!
>
> da YA know?"
Stephani,
The only tiles I have ever made are ^10 and as you know they are not porous.
I've never carved the back out and never have had a problem setting the
tiles in thin set.
Ingeborg, taking a break from a tile setting job that has taken on a life of
its own!
the Potter's Workshop & Gallery
P.O. Box 510
3058 Stringfellow Road
St. James City, Florida 33956
239-283-2775
>
Dave Finkelnburg on sat 7 feb 04
Stephani,
My first guess, and this is only a guess, is the pattern on the back of
pressed tile helps reduce warping and possibly speeds drying and firing.
OR, it may be to make the tile layers feel good. :-)
Good tile making,
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephani Stephenson"
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 7:29 PM
.... prior to becoming a tilemaker, I thought the channels were
> always needed.
> I think they are largely a psychological comfort. When I visualize
> tilesetting in my brain, channels make sense, and in fact you find them
> on many types of tile but i've learned from some experienced
> tilesetters and tilemakers, that
> they are NOT always needed.
> hmmm, I wonder if it has to do with porosity, to some degree?
> Saltillo tiles, fairly porous tile, for example, are usually flat on
> the back,as are many types of brick
> highly vitrified and impervious quarry tiles, often have fairly deep
> grooves in the backs....
> Dat , I dunno!
> da YA know?
Barbara Smith on sat 7 feb 04
I recently purchased a Bailey slab roller, and am just getting started on
making tiles for the floor in my entry way. I have seen some commercial
tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I assume this
may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever bonding
material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the tile
bottom smooth? Any ideas or suggestions?
Angela Davis on sat 7 feb 04
It is very easy to use a wire loop tool and remove gooves of clay from your
tile bottom before it gets too dry. I usually cut 5 or 6 grooves in mine to
aid in
drying flatter and giving the mastic something to hold onto.
Good luck with your project, tile making is one of my favorite projects.
Angela Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barbara Smith"
To:
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 2:12 PM
Subject: Tile making
> I recently purchased a Bailey slab roller, and am just getting started on
> making tiles for the floor in my entry way. I have seen some commercial
> tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I assume this
> may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever bonding
> material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the tile
> bottom smooth? Any ideas or suggestions?
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
wayneinkeywest on sat 7 feb 04
Barbara:
You are correct in that the channels are for tile attachment.
If you are planning to adhere the tiles with "thinset"
(a mortar-based cement adhesive, those textures
are absolutely needed.
If you are using an "plastic" adhesive
like Liquid Nails, the grooving and texturing is not
so important. Some texture will always
help with the installation, though.
Go to your nearest Home store and see if you
can get a piece of rubber matting, the kind that
has ridges along it's length. Might be able to find
it in plastic, but rubber is more common. Lay that
on your slab roller, then the clay, and roll to the
thickness you desire.
Using the mat, flip the clay over and remove
the mat. Voila, instant texture :>)
Hope that helps,
Wayne Seidl
> I recently purchased a Bailey slab roller, and am just getting
started on
> making tiles for the floor in my entry way. I have seen some
commercial
> tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I
assume this
> may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever
bonding
> material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the
tile
> bottom smooth? Any ideas or suggestions?
Gordon Ward on sat 7 feb 04
Barbara,
Modern thinset mortar is very good, especially if an acrylic admix is used.
You can get away with little texturing. Just a serrated rib would do the
trick. Then a good grouting job using acrylic admix will really lock them
down in place. It is most important that the floor beneath does not flex at
all.
Have fun with your project,
Gordon Ward
> From: Barbara Smith
> Reply-To: Clayart
> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 14:12:07 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Tile making
>
> I recently purchased a Bailey slab roller, and am just getting started on
> making tiles for the floor in my entry way. I have seen some commercial
> tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I assume this
> may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever bonding
> material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the tile
> bottom smooth? Any ideas or suggestions?
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Ingeborg Foco on sat 7 feb 04
Wayne said
"Barbara:
You are correct in that the channels are for tile attachment.
If you are planning to adhere the tiles with "thinset"
(a mortar-based cement adhesive, those textures
are absolutely needed."
Sorry Wayne, but you do NOT need to make grooves in the backs of tiles to
make them adhere with thinset. The type of trowel you use determines the
adhesion to the tiling surface.
I have made what seems like miles of tiles and set them myself with thinset
and they are still in place many years later (as in 20 years plus) I am
presently doing a tile project consisting of thin tiles which would be
impossible to groove. Putting channels in the back of tiles is a lot of
extra unnecessary work and you risk warpage by more handling of the clay.
On the other hand, if you are making a very thick tiles, then channels can
aid in the drying process.
Not all purchased tiles have channels in the back either.
Sincerely,
.
Ingeborg
the Potter's Workshop & Gallery
P.O. Box 510
3058 Stringfellow Road
St. James City, Florida 33956
239-283-2775
LindaBlossom on sat 7 feb 04
I am going to completely disagree with other posts on this. I don't know
how much tile the others have made but I have made a lot of it. From my
experience which forms this opinion, It is unnecessary to do anything to the
backs of the tiles you make. I
never do this and my tiles dry flat without it and there is no reason
relating to installation that necessitates it either. I do install the
tiles I make for others.
Linda
Ithaca, NY
> I recently purchased a Bailey slab roller, and am just getting started on
> making tiles for the floor in my entry way. I have seen some commercial
> tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I assume this
> may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever bonding
> material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the tile
> bottom smooth? Any ideas or suggestions?
>
Stephani Stephenson on sat 7 feb 04
Wayne wrote, in response to Barbara...
"You are correct in that the channels are for tile attachment.
If you are planning to adhere the tiles with "thinset"
(a mortar-based cement adhesive, those textures
are absolutely needed."
Actually , grooves or channels are nice ,
but I would take a somewhat different tack , Wayne,
and would say that they are not absolutely necessary.
I've made thousands of tiles with no texture or grooves on the back.
I do, however, use a clay body with some grog , and get some 'grab'
from that.
My handmade tiles are pressed into open face molds, the bottoms are
scraped while the tile is still in the mold, the grog is somewhat
exposed,so the bottoms do not have a slick surface. That texture is
completely sufficient for tile setting purposes.
My tiles almost always set with thinset and I've never had a problem
with them.
It is easy enough to put texture onto the backs while the tiles are in
the mold,
notched trowels are one way, a stamp is another,
but when you begin to make tile in quantity,
any extra steps which are not necessary
are soon discarded!
If you are selling tiles primarily for the gift market, rather than
for setting,
finishing the back of the tile is somewhat like finishing the bottom of
a pot.
Many tile makers have their own 'signature' way of finishing the back,
which not only includes how and if they texture it, but may include
an impressed or signed mark , hanging devices or even cushioning.
a well finished tile back can add to the perceived value in the gift
market, the same as with a pot.
However, I also have an appreciation for the honest and simple
approach.
nothing pleases me more than to see some of the early 1900s tiles
which were pressed from moist clay rather than dust pressed.
backs simply scraped, the character of the toothy clay shows through
not gussied up.
Anyway, prior to becoming a tilemaker, I thought the channels were
always needed.
I think they are largely a psychological comfort. When I visualize
tilesetting in my brain, channels make sense, and in fact you find them
on many types of tile but i've learned from some experienced
tilesetters and tilemakers, that
they are NOT always needed.
hmmm, I wonder if it has to do with porosity, to some degree?
Saltillo tiles, fairly porous tile, for example, are usually flat on
the back,as are many types of brick
highly vitrified and impervious quarry tiles, often have fairly deep
grooves in the backs....
Dat , I dunno!
da YA know?
Stephani Stephenson
steph@alchemiestudio.com
Diane Winters on sun 8 feb 04
Barbara wrote:
>I have seen some commercial
>tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I assume this
>may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever bonding
>material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the tile
>bottom smooth?
That is the intended purpose, but there's really no need to make channels in
the backs of your tiles. When I started making tiles some 14 years ago I
did this. Then, when I first approached a handmade-tile showroom in New
York with my "product," the owner didn't exactly laugh at me, but asked why
in the world I was wasting my time cutting those grooves. He said it could
be helpful to put horizontal grooves if I were to make any large, heavy
pieces for wall installation, but that regular tiles didn't need them. I
checked with my cousin, a professional tile installer/contractor, who
basically agreed.
BUT, what IS important, is that your underlayment be solid and rigid. And
of course, you'll want to use a polymer-modified (latex- or
acrylic-modified) thinset and follow sound installation procedures (correct
thinset application, expansion joints, etc). If you're going to set them
yourself, you might want to get a book such as "Setting Tile" by Michael
Byrne, Taunton Press, which should probably be available in Home Depot type
stores.
Also, since you're making them for a foyer, be sure they won't be slippery
when wet (i.e., avoid gloss glazes). You don't want guests suddenly &
painfully getting TOO close a look at your beautiful handiwork.
I envy you - I rent now so I can't install my own tiles here. Good luck.
You'll feel so pleased and proud when you get the project finished.
Diane Winters
in Berkeley/Oakland by the Bay
http://www.artisticlicense.org/members/winters/index.html
Malcolm Schosha on sun 8 feb 04
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Dave Finkelnburg
wrote:
> Stephani,
> My first guess, and this is only a guess, is the pattern on the
back of
> pressed tile helps reduce warping and possibly speeds drying and
firing.
> OR, it may be to make the tile layers feel good. :-)
> Good tile making,
> Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
>
>
......................
Actually most commercially produced tile is ram pressed from dry
power, and there is no danger of warping in drying, because there is
no drying. The bodies are formulated so there is not much chance of
warping in firing either.
The ridges are 1. a convience for wall instilation, and 2. add some
stength to the tile while making it as thin as practical. Because of
the formulation and thinness of the commercial wall tiles, they can
be fired in continuious firing tunnel kilns in just a few hours
(heating and cooling).
Tiles made by craft potters, are made with different considerations,
although it is sensible (but not necessary if artistic considerations
direct otherwise) to keep wall tiles light.
Malcolm Schosha
Malcolm Schosha
Donald G. Goldsobel on sun 8 feb 04
The grooves on the back increase the surface for the thinset or mortar to
adhere. It also increases the adhesion factor because of the profile-there
are verticle, horizontal and pitched surfaces to bond and hold the tile in
place. It is like walking on a slick surface with a lugged sole (lots more
surfaces and edges=lots more traction) vs a smooth sole. Not all
applications need the increased surface.
Donald
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barbara Smith"
To:
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 11:12 AM
Subject: Tile making
> I recently purchased a Bailey slab roller, and am just getting started on
> making tiles for the floor in my entry way. I have seen some commercial
> tiles with textured bottoms (channels of clay scraped out). I assume this
> may be done to help the tile attach to the cement or whatever bonding
> material is used. Is this recommended, or can I just leave the tile
> bottom smooth? Any ideas or suggestions?
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Ellie Blair on sun 8 feb 04
Stephani,
The grooves on the back of commercial tile are for helping the tile =
adhere to the surface.
Ellie Blair
Lawrence, Kansas
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Malcolm Schosha=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: Tile Making
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Dave Finkelnburg
wrote:
> Stephani,
> My first guess, and this is only a guess, is the pattern on the
back of
> pressed tile helps reduce warping and possibly speeds drying and
firing.
> OR, it may be to make the tile layers feel good. :-)
> Good tile making,
> Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
>
>
......................
Actually most commercially produced tile is ram pressed from dry
power, and there is no danger of warping in drying, because there is
no drying. The bodies are formulated so there is not much chance of
warping in firing either.
The ridges are 1. a convience for wall instilation, and 2. add some
stength to the tile while making it as thin as practical. Because of
the formulation and thinness of the commercial wall tiles, they can
be fired in continuious firing tunnel kilns in just a few hours
(heating and cooling).
Tiles made by craft potters, are made with different considerations,
although it is sensible (but not necessary if artistic considerations
direct otherwise) to keep wall tiles light.
Malcolm Schosha
Malcolm Schosha
=
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