Kathy Mccormick on fri 3 may 96
Hi Clayarters,
Does anybody out there know of a way to transfer signatures to a glazed
piece?
I'm making a gift for a church choir member who is retiring after 40+ years
with the choir. It will be a platter which will be decorated on the front.
On the back, I'd like to include the signatures of the 1996 choir. In the
past for pieces like this I've experimented with using permanent markers and
have found a couple which will stay on the piece as long as it is washed
gently. But that means dragging the platter around and having people sign it
in person. I'd rather come up with a way to have them sign something which
could then be transferred on to the platter, similar to transferring designs
on to fabric. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help,
Kathy
(In Michigan where it's cold and rainy but at least it's above freezing
consistently now.)
Marvin Bartel on sat 4 may 96
At 06:47 PM 5/3/96 EDT, you wrote:
>Hi Clayarters,
>Does anybody out there know of a way to transfer signatures to a glazed
>piece?
I can think of 3 ways this might be done.
1. The companies that have laser machines to make plaques and craft
items can also print on glazed surfaces with the lasers. This is permanent
and can be washed in a dishwasher. Dick Lehman has this done quite often
for company gift items (see April issue of CM for info about Dick). I think
he even wrote an article about this earlier. The signatures would need to
be on a piece of paper which is scanned with a computer. The company would
need to have a computer controled laser.
2. A very complex method would be to make a photo silk screen
ceramics decal from the signatures. This is applied to the finished glaze
and refired like china paint at a lower temp firing. This is probably too
expensive for one-of-a-kind.
3. Paint markers come with fairly fine tips and are more permanent
than felt tip markers, but not as permanent as the first two options above.
4. With some experimentation, I'd expect certain paint marker
colors to withstand firing similar to overglaze. In the past my students
have tested artist oils as ceramics colorants, and found that many do work,
even at cone 10. I'd try the earth tones, greens, and the blues because they
may have the same pigments we use in glaze. Black and the reds and oranges
are more likely to burn away. To test, I'd put them on a white glazed
surface and spray a thin coat of lowfire glaze over them (to replace the
organic binder which burns out in firing) and fire hot enough for the low
fire glaze. Some may come out rough, some may disappear, and some may
work. Just an idea.
Any time I refire a previously glazed piece, the danger of steam
explosion is very great. Either a very long warm up or preheating several
hours in a controled kitchen oven can drive out the moisture to help prevent
steam explosions. Hope this helps.
++++++++++++++
Marvin Bartel, Art Dept
Goshen College, Goshen, IN 46526
marvinpb@goshen.edu
http://www:goshen.edu
++++++++++++++
.. . . on being influenced by a good idea . .
"Don't borrow it. Steal it. Make it your own."
from poet, Nick Lindsay
grevans@cencom.net on mon 6 may 96
Try using a low fire gold pen. I have done wedding plates this way. Its an
extra firing but it looks great. All three of my wedded sisters display theirs
with pride in their china cabnet.
Bob Freitas on tue 7 may 96
How about using luster pens?
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