Peggy Heer on mon 30 sep 96
Hi Guys/Gals
I NEED to know.....
if a ballclay TS can be applied to (^07)
bisque and then be pit fired without knowing the temp of the pit....will
the TS stay on the piece?
Will a Redart TS or a red earthenware TS applied to bisque stay on a pit
fired piece?
Do the TS'ed bisqued pieces need to be bisq. again for the stay-on, no
flacking, no chipping off during or after the pit fire...again, no temp
available in the pit.
Will the above stay on...if at all...if it is applied via pouring and
rather thick or if applied via brush and a thinner application?
I have several bisqued pieces (Laguna B-Mix) and have applied the ball clay
TS with a brush...which polished up beautifully. Some areas are thick and
seem to be starting to peeling/flack while others are thinner and seem to
be ok... at the moment.
I KNOW...TEST IT....BUT it is cold and raining with a promise of snow and I
will not be able to test for awhile and then only if we get a warm Indian
summer/fall.
Do any of you have a TS rec. that WILL work on/over the above clay bisque
and that you would/could share with me.....It would be most appreciated....
Seems to me I have tried this in the past and it was not toooo successful
with these TSs but it seems I am going around in circles trying to get the
effect that I am after...it has been 6 yrs. of testing and still
nothing....so maybe this is my square one again....????? HELP!!!!!
Many thanks ..As Always in Clay Peggy
Peggy Heer / Heer Pottery E-Mail p4337@connect.ab.ca
Edmonton AB, Canada
http://www.ffa.ucalgary.ca/artists/pheer/
Louis Howard Katz on mon 30 sep 96
Peggy,
Sorry to give you the bad news but the only real answer is going to be to
test. Sticking T-sigs to bisque is a bit touchy. They need to be right
for the clay they are on and the firing temp. For bisque apllication I
suggest un-ball milled sigs. Use the thinest coat that you can that is
opaque. I would re"bisque" if I was unsure if my pitfire was high enough
to" bisque" the sig. If you do rebisque use a very low cone like 018 or so.
Louis
***************************************************
*Louis Katz lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu *
*Texas A&M University Corpus Christi *
*6300 Ocean Drive, Art Department *
*Corpus Christi, Tx 78412 *
*Phone (512) 994-5987 *
**************************************************
Fran Newquist on tue 1 oct 96
At 09:05 AM 9/30/96 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I use 1 part (by weight) ball clay; 2 parts (by weight) water plus 1/4-1/2%
sodium silicate. My Terra Sig is very thin like skimmed milk, but you can
thicken by boiling. This formula is from Pete Pinnell and works for me with
any clay I've tried--Red Art, Cedar Heights, Sagger XX or OM4. You may add
stains or oxides to taste. This Terra Sig will work on B-Mix and works
great on porcelain.
We used this formula over the weekend at the Mud & Fire Field Day and
achieved some great results. This Terra Sig burnishes immmediately and you
don't have to rebisque for pits, raku, or any other method.
You could even use this formula in a snow-ku.
>Hi Guys/Gals
>I NEED to know.....
> if a ballclay TS can be applied to (^07)
>bisque and then be pit fired without knowing the temp of the pit....will
>the TS stay on the piece?
>Will a Redart TS or a red earthenware TS applied to bisque stay on a pit
>fired piece?
>Do the TS'ed bisqued pieces need to be bisq. again for the stay-on, no
>flacking, no chipping off during or after the pit fire...again, no temp
>available in the pit.
>Will the above stay on...if at all...if it is applied via pouring and
>rather thick or if applied via brush and a thinner application?
>I have several bisqued pieces (Laguna B-Mix) and have applied the ball clay
>TS with a brush...which polished up beautifully. Some areas are thick and
>seem to be starting to peeling/flack while others are thinner and seem to
>be ok... at the moment.
>I KNOW...TEST IT....BUT it is cold and raining with a promise of snow and I
>will not be able to test for awhile and then only if we get a warm Indian
>summer/fall.
>Do any of you have a TS rec. that WILL work on/over the above clay bisque
>and that you would/could share with me.....It would be most appreciated....
>Seems to me I have tried this in the past and it was not toooo successful
>with these TSs but it seems I am going around in circles trying to get the
>effect that I am after...it has been 6 yrs. of testing and still
>nothing....so maybe this is my square one again....????? HELP!!!!!
>Many thanks ..As Always in Clay Peggy
>
>Peggy Heer / Heer Pottery E-Mail p4337@connect.ab.ca
>Edmonton AB, Canada
>http://www.ffa.ucalgary.ca/artists/pheer/
>
>
Peggy Heer on tue 1 oct 96
Hi Louis...I thank you for your reply to my post/question and appreciate
the info on a second low bisque fire. I have a 30 c ft gas kiln and I
really was hoping that I did not have to load this sucker a second time for
a bisque. Oh well...the life of a potter and experimenter. ;>}}}
I do not have a ball mill and only use TSs that are not B Milled so I am ok
there.
Thanks again and I will be testing again, again, again....;>}}}}
PS...do you know anything about Laguna EM 207 red earthenware clay ???other
than it is a mess of orange color all over my studio after only one day of
throwing with it. Seems kind of short when wedging and almost thixatrophic
when handled. I am use to throwing with white clays/porcelains and the
mess may just get to me...;>}}}
As Always in Clay Peggy
Peggy Heer / Heer Pottery E-Mail p4337@connect.ab.ca
Edmonton AB, Canada
http://www.ffa.ucalgary.ca/artists/pheer/
Vince Pitelka on tue 8 oct 96
Peggy and Others -
I've been out of town for ten days doing workshops, and I may have missed
some of this thread. I have used super-refined terra sigs on bisque ware
successfully as long as the sig coating is very thin and is buffed
immediately while still damp. But, sig coatings always work better on
bone-dry greenware, so why even worry about applying the sig after the
bisque, and bisque-firing again before the pit-fire? Am I missing something
here?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@Dekalb.Net
Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
Appalachian Center for Crafts, Smithville TN 37166
Peggy Heer on wed 9 oct 96
Hi Vince...are you saying that TS on bisque SHOULD be fired AGAIN???
The original question was ...can ts, applied to bisque, go directly to the
pit without bisq. again and stay on without flaking, chipping or falling
off. If so, does anyone have a tried and true rec. for such an animal?
As Always in Clay Peggy
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Peggy and Others -
>I've been out of town for ten days doing workshops, and I may have missed
>some of this thread. I have used super-refined terra sigs on bisque ware
>successfully as long as the sig coating is very thin and is buffed
>immediately while still damp. But, sig coatings always work better on
>bone-dry greenware, so why even worry about applying the sig after the
>bisque, and bisque-firing again before the pit-fire? Am I missing something
>here?
>- Vince
>
>
>Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@Dekalb.Net
>Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
>Appalachian Center for Crafts, Smithville TN 37166
Peggy Heer / Heer Pottery E-Mail p4337@connect.ab.ca
Edmonton AB, Canada
http://www.ffa.ucalgary.ca/artists/pheer/
Darrol F. Shillingburg on wed 9 oct 96
Hey Vince,
Good to see ya back in town and online! I too was out of town and missed part of
this thread, but as usual have some thoughts
A couple of what seem to me legit reasons for exploring terra sig on bisque (
and I us the term bisque to include any piece fired to any temperature).
I use combinations of sigillata and burnished colored surfaces, sometimes the
sigillata color is not quite right out of the kiln. My choices are, sigillata on
bisque and refire or accept my disappointment. I usually, but not always sand
the sigillata surface before resigillata-ing. I have saved some large complex
handbuilt vessels this way.
Sigillata colored with mason stains and applied to greenware sometimes comes out
of the kiln too thin and streaky ( the "cheep veneer look"). I have saved some
and lost some by second coating with colored sigillatas. I don't know how far
this can go, but there are some intreiging possibilities.
I use very thin super refined sigillata colored and uncolored as stains on very
textured surfaces. Sometimes it takes two or three stainings and firings to get
the combinations that work.
I am experimenting with sigillata/reduction cooling combinations, both single
fired and 'sig on bisque' with some success and some failure. Eventually I hope
to find some consistencies.
Long live sigillata, "Liquor of the Gods"
Darrol in Elephant Butte
Vince Pitelka on wed 9 oct 96
At 09:21 AM 10/9/96 -0400, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Vince...are you saying that TS on bisque SHOULD be fired AGAIN???
>The original question was ...can ts, applied to bisque, go directly to the
>pit without bisq. again and stay on without flaking, chipping or falling
>off. If so, does anyone have a tried and true rec. for such an animal?
>As Always in Clay Peggy
Peggy -
I guess we come back to the same old question regarding the type and
temperature of "pit" firing. If you are talking about a bonfire, then you
would not have to refire the terra sig before putting it in the pitfire,
because any bonfire will reach true sintering temperatures. If you are
talking about a sawdust smoking, then I would certainly refire the terra sig
first. But this comes back to my original question. Why not apply the
terra sig to the bone dry greenware in the normal fashion before the
bisque-fire?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@Dekalb.Net
Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
Appalachian Center for Crafts, Smithville TN 37166
Jay Landis on thu 10 oct 96
I would like to know how you make your T.S. Do you use Calgon Or Sodium
Silaca?
Jay Landis
Peggy Heer on fri 11 oct 96
Hi Jay...I have used both as well as soda ash. Sometimes all three in one
TS. ;>}}}
I usually use Sidium Silicate though. As Always in Clay Peggy
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I would like to know how you make your T.S. Do you use Calgon Or Sodium
>Silaca?
>
>Jay Landis
Peggy Heer / Heer Pottery E-Mail p4337@connect.ab.ca
Edmonton AB, Canada
http://www.ffa.ucalgary.ca/artists/pheer/
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