Allison Stelter on thu 21 aug 97
I teach high school Ceramics and I've found that it's easiest to have the
students use wax resist on the bottoms of pots to keep them clean (vs.
wiping the glaze off, etc...). However, The wax resist does not stay
thin in the container since it is used so often. I want to avoid using
heated wax because of the fumes.
ANY suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks!
Allison
Gayle Pritchard on fri 22 aug 97
I teach a teen clay class at a local community center. Instead of using wax
resist, I have purchased an inexpensive mouse pad, the kind with nylon
covering. After the pots are glazed, wet the pad, and twist the bottom of
the pot on the surface of the mouse pad. Wipe the bottom with a dry towel or
sponge and you're ready for the kiln! It works great and only takes seconds!
Gayle
Gina Dewar on sun 24 aug 97
Allison,
I first studied pottery in Brazil where we did not have wax resist, but my
teacher used coloured, liquid floor wax. It worked great - coloured so you
could easily see where you have put it. It never dried up in the bottle. I
don't know if such a thing is still available here in the States. I haven't
looked yet. But if you can find it, it should work well for you and as a
bonus, is less expensive!
David Hendley on mon 25 aug 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>teacher used coloured, liquid floor wax. It worked great - coloured so you
>could easily see where you have put it. It never dried up in the bottle. I
>
I've tried using different floor waxes and found them to be too thin for
wax resist. They run too easily when applying and do not resit enough when
dry.
Maybe they have a heavy duty kind in South America?
David Hendley
Maydelle,Texas
Suzanne Storer on wed 27 aug 97
Thin it with water - equal parts water to wax works for me.
>
>I teach high school Ceramics and I've found that it's easiest to have the
>students use wax resist on the bottoms of pots to keep them clean (vs.
>wiping the glaze off, etc...). However, The wax resist does not stay
>thin in the container since it is used so often. I want to avoid using
>heated wax because of the fumes.
Berry Silverman on tue 18 aug 98
I am having a problem with glaze crawling or separately where wax has
been applied. On the particular pieces in question, I apply highly
patterned designs in underglaze on greenware, cover them with Axner's
wax resist, then apply underglaze backgrounds around the design. I am
getting separation after the glaze firing along the border where the
wax and the background meet. Any ideas?
Naturally, this problem doesn't happen if I apply the design over the
background, but then too many layers of underglaze build up and the
underglaze cracks or pops off. I've been using this technique a long
time, but only have the glaze separation periodically. I can't figure
out what I'm doing to trigger this occasional problem. Any help
greatly appreciated.
==
Berry Silverman,
Berryware, Tucson, Arizona
berrysilverman@yahoo.com
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The Wrights on tue 15 aug 00
Has anyone had their wax resist separate in a lump with liquid around it? If so, is there anything that can be done to bring it back to it's original state. She's been keeping it in her car, summer and winter, so it's been through quite a few temperature changes.
Any ideas will be helpful.
Thanks,
Flo
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