Lyla on thu 23 oct 97
about to make a wedging board, any suggestions as to what type of plaster
-of - paris is best?
thanks!
Durham, NC
919-382-9432
www.duke.edu/~msm5/pottery.html
Dan Saultman on fri 24 oct 97
Lyla,
#1 Potters plaster works for me.
However, I have seen wedging table tops made with a coarse cement.
Its virtue is that its surface is rather grainey and therefore the clay
doesn't "skid" when you wedge it.
Dan
========================================
Lyla wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> about to make a wedging board, any suggestions as to what type of plaster
> -of - paris is best?
>
> thanks!
>
> Durham, NC
> 919-382-9432
> www.duke.edu/~msm5/pottery.html
Margaret Arial on sat 25 oct 97
Lyla,
I use potters plaster or moulding plaster.i try to personally check the
plaster for freshness and having a choice that factor might be the
determining one.I like to take plastic solo type 4oz bathroom cups and
leavinb a margin around the sides of the surface you would pour the plaster
onto (i use a formica piece_for a small board ask for the sink cutouts from a
formica fabricator fot countertops) ONTO THE SURFACE I GLUE THE CUPS UPSIDE
DOWN (glue on the top lip of the cup before inverting it with glue down onto
the formica or ? surface.LET THE GLUE DRY OVERNIGHT. build walls using 4"
STRIPS of 1/2 or thicker wood clamped together around the sides- like you
would in mouldmaking. pour plaster, tamp from the bottom from under the table
you would have the entire setup on until it shows signs of setting up if you
pour it to the top of the form you'd need to screed the surface, if less than
full bump the table before it is setting up to get it level.other hints are
use wd40 on formica and wood sides for clean release, clay inside corners
with a coil smoothed into angle to prevent plaster leaks also spray the
bucket before mixing plaster with wd 40 ( VASALINE WIPED THIN IS ALSO OK)
ditto hands or use gloves. a mask and scarf over hair probably are good
habits too.DO NOT PUT THE PLASTER DOWN THE SINK.I put the form into a frame
of 2"x4" 'S.
If you need a portable wedging board do the same thing in a box
(CARDBOARD).Always take the cups out after the next day and let it dry a
week if possible before use so it cures dry.This system exposes a lot of
surface to the air to drying and makes it lighter and uses less plaster so
you can have some forms ready to accept extra plaster for slump and hump
molds ( LUBRICATE THEM BEFORE YOU START).The temperature of your water
affects setup time and strength to some degree so keep it about 68-75 degree
range and do not expose the wet board to freezing.Measuring the plaster to be
added to the water is the most accurate(u.s.GYPSUM WILL SELL YOU AN
INEXPENSIVE RATIO SCALE) but adding it until you see dry hills that don't
fall into the water would work in a pinch with a little experience.
HOPE THIS IS CLEAR.
Margaret in Sunny S.Carolina
Steve Mills on sun 26 oct 97
I've always used a piece of slate. It's a lovely surface to work on,
absorbant, and very hard wearing, and BIG plus: not as dodgy to have around
as plaster.
Steve
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Carol Jackaway on sun 26 oct 97
Hi all,
I use plaster of paris in a old drawer and got a great wedging surface
that is still going strong after 2 years.
CoilLady
Carol Jackaway
Parkside Pa.
Debby Grant on mon 27 oct 97
A piece of soapstone works well as a wedging board. Try the
junk yard and you might be able to get the back of an old laundry
tub which were often made of soapstone.
Debby Grant in NH
Bill Medalen on mon 27 oct 97
----------
From: Steve Mills=5BSMTP:SMills4199=40aol.com=5D
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 1997 10:28 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Wedging Boards
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I've always used a piece of slate. It's a lovely surface to work on,
absorbant, and very hard wearing, and BIG plus: not as dodgy to have around
as plaster.
Steve
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Hi... I got a pre-stretched/attached canvas on a frame (the kind for oil
paintings) at the art store, filled it up with plaster, let it set up and =
its
been great. Its portable, plaster on one side, canvas on the other, easy =
to
make and move around. Good luck=21
Nancy Jewell, Denver,Co SnowSnowSnowSnow......
Vince Pitelka on tue 28 oct 97
>Hi... I got a pre-stretched/attached canvas on a frame (the kind for oil
>paintings) at the art store, filled it up with plaster, let it set up and its
>been great. Its portable, plaster on one side, canvas on the other, easy to
>make and move around. Good luck!
>Nancy Jewell, Denver,Co SnowSnowSnowSnow......
Wow! Almost thirty years in clay and I still learn something new every day,
largely due to my students and this list. This one was especially fine.
Thank you, Nancy. I assume that you used the unprimed stretched canvas.
One concern that occured to me - there are many different kinds of stretched
canvases available, and on some the frame is extremely shallow, which would
give a very weak plaster slab. I would think that the plaster slab should
be at least two inches thick. But if the frame is too shallow, it would be
a simple matter to tack on thin boards to increase the depth of the frame.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Pat Sherwood on wed 29 oct 97
Vince Pitelka wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hi... I got a pre-stretched/attached canvas on a frame (the kind for oil
> >paintings) at the art store, filled it up with plaster, let it set up and it
> >been great. Its portable, plaster on one side, canvas on the other, easy to
> >make and move around. Good luck!
> >Nancy Jewell, Denver,Co SnowSnowSnowSnow......
>
> One concern that occured to me - there are many different kinds of stretched
> canvases available, and on some the frame is extremely shallow, which would
> give a very weak plaster slab. I would think that the plaster slab should
> be at least two inches thick. But if the frame is too shallow, it would be
> a simple matter to tack on thin boards to increase the depth of the frame.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
>-------------------
Question -- Would adding shredded fiberglass to the plaster strengthen
it enough to make a thinner (read lighter weight) bat usable? I'm
recalling here that one of our concrete contractors has begun using
fiberglass in lieu of rebar in the concrete pad for the diesel island at
a local service station -- and that has 18-wheelers driving over it!
Pat
Pat Sherwood
patsher@trib.com
knoelle2@yahoo.com on wed 13 dec 06
Hi all -
Can't figure out how to reply to postings (using yahoo
groups), so I apologize for starting a new thread when
this really a reply to an old one...
ANYWAY - Folks recommend using shuttering ply or
hardibacker board instead of plaster. Sounds good but
I can't find either of these by that name at HOme
Depot. Is this the same thing as the absorbent sheets
of board (I think it is cement board) that you attach
tiles to?
Also - just wanted to thank everyone for all the
helpful and encouraging advice on how to repair the
softbrick on my aged electric kiln. I'm working on it
now, and hopefully I'll have the job done soon.
Kathleen in Boston
____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com
Gayle Bair on wed 13 dec 06
Kathleen,
There is another backerboard....probably best known by the trade name
"Durock," which is trademarked by US Gypsum. It comes in 1/2" and 1/4"
thickness.
this stuff is used for shower & floor tiles.
Ask someone where it is.... I have found them in the lumber and flooring
departments.
The 1/2" might give you more weight if you are worried about the weight of
your wedging table being too light. I use the coarse side for wedging and
smooth side for
ware boards. It is very easy to score and snap. A sheet should be about$12
and is approx. 4x5'.
There is another cement product that is very coarse and very heavy. It has
some fiber mesh within it... I haven't used that one. If you are want we
have used stick to the description in the first paragraph.
I use the 1/4" clamped to an old printer stand. If it starts to move I step
on the printer stand foot to stabilize it. I do not usually wedge more than
20 lbs at a time and more often less than that.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
www.claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart knoelle2@yahoo.com
Hi all -
Can't figure out how to reply to postings (using yahoo
groups), so I apologize for starting a new thread when
this really a reply to an old one...
ANYWAY - Folks recommend using shuttering ply or
hardibacker board instead of plaster. Sounds good but
I can't find either of these by that name at HOme
Depot. Is this the same thing as the absorbent sheets
of board (I think it is cement board) that you attach
tiles to?
Also - just wanted to thank everyone for all the
helpful and encouraging advice on how to repair the
softbrick on my aged electric kiln. I'm working on it
now, and hopefully I'll have the job done soon.
Kathleen in Boston
Snail Scott on wed 13 dec 06
At 07:12 AM 12/13/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>...Folks recommend using shuttering ply or
>hardibacker board instead of plaster. Sounds good but
>I can't find either of these by that name at HOme
>Depot...
Hardibacker is a brand name; Home Depot may
carry a different brand where you live. It is
the backer board used behind shower tile, etc.
-Snail
Tom Sawyer on fri 15 dec 06
For what it is worth I've used a marble table top for years. You can find a
slab of marble at almost any stone yard for a reasonable price especially if
it is a second. Marble has some absorptive quality that keeps the clay from
sticking unless it is really wet and it lasts forever. I would guess that if
you make a lot of pieces really do a lot of wedging it might get a little
wet and you would have a problem until it dries but I make a fair amount of
pieces and don't have a problem. I also like the aesthetic.
Tom Sawyer
Craig Clark on fri 15 dec 06
After attending a wonderful workshop and watching a Korean Potter in
action I have switched to a really high tech table. I now wedge on my my
knees, or on one knee (can't quite get the squat thing going....just
ain't flexible enough), and either wedge on a 2ft x 3ft piece of Birch
Ply on the floor or just on clean concrete. It works very well and ya
can't beat the cost. I have not wedged clay on a table where I'm
standing in well over a year now.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Tom Sawyer wrote:
> For what it is worth I've used a marble table top for years. You can find a
> slab of marble at almost any stone yard for a reasonable price especially if
> it is a second. Marble has some absorptive quality that keeps the clay from
> sticking unless it is really wet and it lasts forever. I would guess that if
> you make a lot of pieces really do a lot of wedging it might get a little
> wet and you would have a problem until it dries but I make a fair amount of
> pieces and don't have a problem. I also like the aesthetic.
>
> Tom Sawyer
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
val on sat 16 dec 06
LOL if I got down to wedge I would never get up again!!
Val
After attending a wonderful workshop and watching a
Korean Potter in action I have switched to a really
high tech table. I now wedge on my my knees, or on one
knee (can't quite get the squat thing going....just
ain't flexible enough), and either wedge on a 2ft x 3ft
piece of Birch Ply on the floor or just on clean
concrete. It works very well and ya can't beat the
cost. I have not wedged clay on a table where I'm
standing in well over a year now. Hope this helps Craig
Dunn Clark 619 East 11 1/2 St Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083 mudman@hal-pc.org
Tom Sawyer wrote:
> For what it is worth I've used a marble table top for
years. You can=20
> find a slab of marble at almost any stone yard for a
reasonable price=20
> especially if it is a second. Marble has some
absorptive quality that=20
> keeps the clay from sticking unless it is really wet
and it lasts=20
> forever. I would guess that if you make a lot of
pieces really do a=20
> lot of wedging it might get a little wet and you
would have a problem=20
> until it dries but I make a fair amount of pieces and
don't have a=20
> problem. I also like the aesthetic.
>
> Tom Sawyer
>
>
_______________________________________________________
_______________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
your subscription=20
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at=20
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
_______________________________________________________
_______________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change
your subscription settings from
http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--=20
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.19/587 -
Release Date: 14/12/2006 7:28 PM
=20
--=20
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.21/589 -
Release Date: 15/12/2006 5:10 PM
=20
Patrick Cross on sat 16 dec 06
I saw Don Reitz wedging on the floor at a workshop in LaGrange, GA years
ago...but now that guy is one tough old bird...
I can put pictures of that workshop up on PhotoBucket if anyone is
interested...it would have been about 1996?
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/16/06, val wrote:
>
> LOL if I got down to wedge I would never get up again!!
> Val
>
>
>
>
> After attending a wonderful workshop and watching a
> Korean Potter in action I have switched to a really
> high tech table. I now wedge on my my knees, or on one
> knee (can't quite get the squat thing going....just
> ain't flexible enough), and either wedge on a 2ft x 3ft
> piece of Birch Ply on the floor or just on clean
> concrete. It works very well and ya can't beat the
> cost. I have not wedged clay on a table where I'm
> standing in well over a year now. Hope this helps Craig
> Dunn Clark 619 East 11 1/2 St Houston, Texas 77008
> (713)861-2083 mudman@hal-pc.org
>
> Tom Sawyer wrote:
> > For what it is worth I've used a marble table top for
> years. You can
> > find a slab of marble at almost any stone yard for a
> reasonable price
> > especially if it is a second. Marble has some
> absorptive quality that
> > keeps the clay from sticking unless it is really wet
> and it lasts
> > forever. I would guess that if you make a lot of
> pieces really do a
> > lot of wedging it might get a little wet and you
> would have a problem
> > until it dries but I make a fair amount of pieces and
> don't have a
> > problem. I also like the aesthetic.
> >
> > Tom Sawyer
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________________
> _______________
> > ________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________________
> _______________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription settings from
> http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.19/587 -
> Release Date: 14/12/2006 7:28 PM
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.21/589 -
> Release Date: 15/12/2006 5:10 PM
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Bonnie Staffel on sun 17 dec 06
I think that Paul Soldner may have been the first potter who popularized =
the
floor wedging practice. He did a workshop for us at the Toledo
Museum/Toledo Potters Guild in the early 50's offering and I have a =
slide of
him "nekkid" to the waist on his knees, wedging clay on a canvas spread =
on
the floor. One might also say that working sans a shirt probably =
shocked
the attendees of that era. Boy, those were heady events in the lives of =
the
new potters.
As for me, I still can get "nekkid" but sure don't want to stress the =
knees
to get down on the floor any more. I have even given up wedging as you
probably know from my frequent posts on that subject. =20
I attended a Reitz workshop in the late 80's and sorry to say, he did =
not
entertain us with the floor method of wedging. =20
I do think the process is a beautiful one, especially using the oriental
spiral method. It looks like a sea shell in the making. =20
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
| |
|
