Robert Levine on fri 26 jul 96
In reference to the previous discussions on plaster,
I just checked the prices at Lonestar here in Seattle.
They are all 100# bags:
#1 Potters $15.70
Hydrocal $20.60
Hydrocal TB (Hydrostone, I believe) $24.45)
I just got into ceramics because I am building my own house
and I needed to make some special application custom tiles.
I took a class so that I could get training on a kiln
and maybe do some test firings before buying one for the project.
Well, now I have a new wheel, a new computer controlled, electric kiln
and am going to build a wedging table (it may seem a little much for
a ceramics neophyte, but my experience with this house has demonstrated
that the right tools can make a tough job easier. I had no experience
building a house before but it is now five levels and better than the
built-by-contractor homes on the market. All one needs is to get advise,
read a little, buy the tools, then do-it-yourself.
You will be successful.
Anyway, what would be the ideal dimensions - length, width and height,
for a table that could also accomodate two young children who love
to work with clay?
What would be the best thickness of the plaster bed?
What is the conversion for quantity of #1 plaster to cubic feet?
(If the table is 3' x 5' with a 4 inch thick bed, it would take
just over 5 cu ft. How many pounds (dry plaster) is required?
By the way, if anyone would like to share ideas for ceramic
applications for a house, your input is welcome.
Thanks
Robert Levine
Seattle, WA
robertl@sber.ca.boeing.com
or
robertl@scn.org
June Perry on sat 27 jul 96
In a message dated 96-07-26 17:41:36 EDT, you write:
<table is 3' x 5' with a 4 inch thick bed, it would take just over 5 cu ft.
How many pounds (dry plaster) is required?>>
You would need abouy 325 lbs. of plaster to do a table that size and would
probably need a crane to lift it!
My plaster table that I made over twenty years ago is 3 1/2" deep by 28"wide
and 18" deep. I first made a frame out of 3/4" boards and put a divider board
in the center. I figured I would use one side for stoneware and the other for
porcelain. I may the form closed and when finished I placed the whole thing
on top of a handmade table. I also have a commercially produced one that I
picked up at a sale and that one is 2' wide, 3' long and 2/1" deep. Both
tables work fine.
You don't need a large table for wedging. I would suggest building another
table for the children to play clay on. Plaster and little kids can be a bad
combination resulting in lots of blown up pots from bit of plaster
contamination. Tops of old pool tables or pieces of slate make good wedging
tops and worktables for the kids.
Most plaster is made in the range of 60 to 75 consistency. I just made some
molds today in the 65 range which will give me some hardness and yet still be
somewhat absorbent.
So if you wanted to build a 2' by 3' by 3" deep wedging surface (which would
be 1.5 cu.ft.), at the 65 consistency, you would need around 200 lbs of
plaster
and 250 lbs of water. This is still a lot of plaster to deal with at one
time. You can divide your table into two areas and make and pour two
consecutive batches. Either that you get some help pouring such a big batch.
Here is what I did this morning when I made my molds:
1. Used soap sizing on the forms I was going to use and checked them with a
level and did what I needed to level them.
2.. Sprayed a five gallon bucket with WD40 oil and then wiped it off. (this
makes cleaning the bucket easier afterwards.)
3. Weighed out the water in this bucket.( I only did a batch of about 18 lbs
of plaster).
4. Weighed out the plaster and sieved it through a large kitchen strainer.
5. Slowly poured the sieved plaster on top of the water and let it slake for
two minutes.
6. Stir. (I used my hand for such a small quanity). It is important to keep
your mixing hands in the bottom of the bucket and mix from there. If you
bring your hands up and mix near the surface you can make a lot of air
bubbles. With a large amount you will need to use a jiffy mixer but make sure
again, that you keep in deep in the bucket and only use low speed.
7. You can pour it as soon as it is mixed. Don't wait! Plaster can firm up
real fast and get very hot (about 150 degrees). You may want to have a board
handy that you can use to skim the top of your frame to level the plaster,
especially if you waited a bit long and it has started to thicken. That
happened to me today. My plaster was old and I wasn't sure it would set and
all of a sudden the batch started to firm up and it was a bit frantic trying
to pour it into the three molds. I had calculated for only two molds but know
that it is always a good idea to have an extra pyrex pie plate or two sized
and ready in case of excess plaster. The pyrex pie plates make great plaster
bats.
Once made you can use it in about a week.
If you want to give me your finished table measurements and tell me what
consistency you want your plaster I can tell you how much plaster and water
you will need. I have a U.S. Gypsum Cement and Plaster Volume and MIx
calculator that I use for calculating the water plaster ratio based on my
desired consistency.
It is not difficult to do if you follow the simple precautions. I made my
mold when I was a real neophyte potter. I mixed mine by hand that first time,
in a large garbage can and it started to get hot because it took so long to
mix it by hand! Then I had trouble trying to pour it because of the weight
and I screamed for help. Fortunately my teenage daughter was home and came
to my rescue and the two of us were able to tilt the garbage can and pour the
plaster. I am still using that table!
A 65 consistency( which is 65 parts water to 100 parts plaster) is a pretty
hard plaster and a 75 consistency (75 parts water to 100 parts plaster would
be more absorbent but not as durable. These figures apply to tye typical #1
Pottery plaster which most studio potters use. There are other plasters like
Hydrocal,etc. which have much lower recommended consistencies. I am assuming
you would go with the #1 Pottery plaster which would be fine and a bit
cheaper than some of the others.
Good luck!
June Perry
EMail: Gurushakti@aol.com
Brad Sondahl on sun 22 dec 96
Depending on your wedging style, you may benefit from two levels of
wedging board. I wedge large pugs from the waist, and prefer the table
waist high. Smaller balls of clay are better worked 5-6 inches higher.
So I made a two level wedging area. Raw ext. grade plywood works well
as a surface, if the clay isn't too wet. Or if you want to do plaster,
why not finish it with canvas so you don't get plaster chips in your
clay. Do you know how to stretch canvas-- start at the four midpoints
and staple towards the corners, maintaining tension towards the corners.
Brad Sondahl, Nezperce Idaho
Akita-jin \"Lee Love\" on tue 24 dec 96
My wedging table is 2inch thick plaster covered with canvas. The
canvas keeps the plaster out of the clay.
I find an absorbent wedging table handy, because if your clay is a
little too wet, a bit of wedging dries it out. I a lot of my wedging
on the wheelhead, if the clay is just right.
Lee In Beautiful, Snowy St. Paul, MN USA
====================================================
/(o\ Lee Love In "St. Paul", MN ' Come see some pixs of my AkitaPup:
\o)/ mailto:Ikiru@juno.com ' http://www.millcomm.com/~leelove
mailto:LeeLove@millcomm.com ' "It gets late early out there."
-Yogi Berra-
Malone & Dean McRaine on fri 6 jun 97
About those slate slabs.. I'd think that being non porus clay sould stick
like crazy, especialy if slip-ery. Personally I think cement tables are the
best. If you want a perfect surface like slate cast a fine cement mix on a
piece of (well supported) glass. Turn it over when dry and Viola! You'll
never need another. Plaster is too easily damaged, cement is invulnerable
but a little less absorbant. I cast mine right side up and the slight
texture from the aggregate is nice on slabs that I roll out on it.
Dean
Edward Cowell on tue 14 jul 98
Have for years used a piece of good quality 3/4" pressed board nailed on to
a frame supported by 4 x 4s. This surface stands up for years of wedging
and washing and I don't have to worry about fitting a piece of canvas on
tight enough not to wrinkle. If and when it wears out (starts to
splinter), just flip it over and use the other side.
Laurie Cowell,
Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Michael Pressman on thu 1 apr 99
I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few =
months,
my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read =
all
about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going =
to
get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise... all=
the
discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a =
lot
more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with =
plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick =
should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
thanks
John Jensen on fri 2 apr 99
For my wedging tables I have poured a number of plaster slabs. Generally
about 16 x 20 x 3 inches in size. I make a frame out of two by fours on a
sheet of glass and seal the cracks with a narrow coil of clay. Then pour
the plaster into the frame. Once the frame is filled, the boards are taken
away and the plaster slab remains. The glass gives one very flat and smooth
surface which holds up very well with a bit of care. I generally use
regular moulding plaster from the building supply store. I add 11 lbs of
plaster to a gallon of water. Stirring slowly with my fingers until I begin
to see trails behind my fingers in the surface of the plaster, then pour. I
think, you can get a slab three inches thick with threee or four batchs. I
like to score the layers before adding the next but it probably isn't
neccessary. After an hour or so the slab will be solid enough to move, and
at this point I round off all the corners with some sort of knife. Let it
dry about a week until you begin to use it. The advantage of a moveble bat
is that you can set it aside to let it dry while using another to wedge on.
Before I got a pugmill, I was always using my plaster slabs to dry out my
recycled clay, and they tended to get saturated with water pretty quick. In
use you can set them up on a few small sticks to let air circulate under
them. This allows them to dry more easily and prevents the table they are
sitting on from getting wet.
When working with plaster a couple of points are worth repeating: You don't
want any plaster to get into your clay, either when you are mixing it up or
little chips and scraps later; and when mixing plaster don't get any into
your plumbing.
Jon Jensen
>thanks
>
>
John Jensen, mudbug@toad.net
Mudbug Pottery
Annapolis, Md.
Cara on fri 2 apr 99
Hi Michael!!
I'm not sure which archive you looked in but if you use the www.potters.org
archive you need to look under techniques/misc. There is a whole section
there on wedging and wedging tables...... Lots of good info!!!!
I am getting ready to try a large cement patio stone that has been covered
with canvas. I was using a piece of plywood covered with canvas..... Very
mobile, sometimes too mobile!!! I needed something I could get a little
rougher with!! But I don't want plaster in my studio, so I thought I
would try the patio stone.
I hope I helped!!!!!
Cara
Subject: Wedging Table
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
thanks
C J TRIPP on fri 2 apr 99
Dear Micheal
Pottery Making Illustrated, Summer 1998 has an article in it about how to
build a wedging table. I love this magazine and I'd recommend you subscribe
to it and get all the back issues - it hasn't been going very long. It is
chock FULL of great information.
Regards,
CJ in Dubai where we have the a/c system back on because summer has
arrived!
_______________________________________________________
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
Ed Corle on fri 2 apr 99
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few
months,
my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read all
about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going to
get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise...
all the
discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a lot
more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
-------------------------Reply--------------------------------------------------
------
I constructed a wedging table out of 4x4`s for the legs, 2x4`s and
3/4 inch plywood.
The top 3 1/2 inches is filled with number one pottery plaster.
Just keep pouring batch after batch until full. Try to work as quickly as
possible.
Weight is very important. It should be heavy enough not move when
you are working. The plaster advantage.
I have had no problems with plaster contamination.
Height is important as well. Woodworking benches are constructed
with these guidelines, when standing, the height of the bench should be at
the level of your flattened palm. This height worked well for me in both
kneading and wedging.
The nice thing about wedging on plaster is that you can stiffen the
clay up if the clay is to soft for the forms thrown.
Ed Corle
Ed Corle
Associate Professor of Art
The University of Findlay
1000 North Main Street
Findlay, OH 45840
TEL:419-424-4534
FAX:419-424-4822
Earl Brunner on fri 2 apr 99
I use a broken peice of slate from a pool table, it's bolted to my wedging tabl
At the studio where I teach we wedge on marine canvas. I made a decision years
not to have plaster in my studio. Love my CXC by the way, but would not have lo
it so much if I had paid "list" for it. Got it at Kickwheel.
Michael Pressman wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few month
> my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read all
> about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going to
> get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise... all t
> discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a lot
> more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
> them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
> comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
> guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
>
> But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
> tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with plaste
> Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick should
> it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
>
> thanks
--
Earl Brunner
bruec@anv.net
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
tmartens on fri 2 apr 99
An alternative suggestion to a 'plaster' wedging table.
I bought a large, very smooth cement paving stone and mounted it at
the right height for me by building two walls with concrete bricks.
As space is at a premuim in my studio this works for me and there is
storage space underneath.
I have also seen tables with a wooden frame box thingy that was
filled with concrete. It was sandwiched together with chicken wire
for strength and the top layer was very smooth cement.
The cement has proved to be very durable and if I have very wet clay
I just dump a slab of plaster on top of my wedging paving stone and
wedge on that to dry it out a bit.
Toni
South Africa
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
thanks
Jeff Seefeldt on fri 2 apr 99
I saw a suggestion in Ceramics Monthly several months back that suggested buying
cheap picture frame, and filling it with plaster of Paris, then you have a canva
covered portable wedging board that you can move around. I haven't' tried it ye
but sounds like a good idea.
jeff
daffodils are blooming in western Illinois.
Michael Pressman wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few month
> my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read all
> about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going to
> get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise... all t
> discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a lot
> more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
> them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
> comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
> guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
>
> But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
> tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with plaste
> Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick should
> it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
>
> thanks
Dale A. Neese on fri 2 apr 99
Michael,
the book "Building Pottery Equipment" by Roger Harvey and Syliva and John
Kolb, 1975 Watson-Guptill Pub. describes building a wedging table. I
expanded on their design by building mine somewhat larger and adding a
cutting wire to one side. The wire is piano wire or I have used hay bailing
wire from atop a 2x4 that is part of the rear leg of the table. I used
marine grade plywood for the table top and covered it with the heaviest
canvas I could find. I added a shelf underneath and keep a couple hundred
pounds of clay on it so the table won't "walk" while wedging. It is better
if you can place it against a wall.
While I was in China last summer, the Chinese were using sit down wedging
tables. A slanted table that you sit at the higher end and the wedging area
was below in front of you. These tables had been put together with pegs and
had been in use for so long that the wooden wedging area was worn
beautifully smooth. It was really a pleasure to use. I took pictures of the
tables from several angles so that one day I'll be able to somewhat
reproduce one.
Dale Tex
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Pressman
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, April 01, 1999 12:12 PM
Subject: Wedging Table
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few
months,
my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read
all
about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going
to
get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise... all
the
discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a
lot
more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
thanks
Randall Moody on sat 3 apr 99
--snip--
> But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
> tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
> Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
should
> it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
--unsnip--
The wedging table at my university is about 2' thick in plaster. It is
also covered with canvas so as to reduce the chance of plaster
contamination. I found this equation in an old ceramics book to find out how
much water you need for the plaster.
W x L x H
--------------- This gives you the quarts of water needed to
fill the space. How much plaster you
80 put in is determined by how hard or porous you
want the end product to be. USG
has a 'slide rule' type cheater card that
helps.
Ian Dunbar on sun 4 apr 99
Hi Michael,
I have always had a phobia about wedging on plaster. Perhaps the bats I had
to use at art colleges in Hull and Wolverhampton were old or poorly mixed.
The end result was too often a nasty little crater right in the middle of a
bowl or worse, a large lump blasted out of the side of the pot by a
fragment of plaster that had found its way into the clay.
When I eventually set up a small studio in Bath I bought a smooth cement
paving slab ( the local council yard had hundreds of them). That did the
job just fine and was inexpensive. The surface needed some light
'polishing' with a fine carborundum stone then after washing and drying was
put to good use for many years.
Regards
Ian Dunbar
Kilncraft Pottery & Gallery
Lynedoch in the Cape Winelands, South Africa.
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Pressman [SMTP:mnpress@erols.com]
Sent: 01 April 1999 08:11
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Wedging Table
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few
months,
my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read
all
about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going
to
get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise...
all the
discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a
lot
more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since
that
comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel
plenty
guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
thanks
Carol Jackaway on sun 4 apr 99
Since I am the only one using my wedge table, I used an old wooden draw as
the frame. Poured plaster into the drawer, smoothed the top with a large and
long metal rib and a level. The plaster harden and I took the draw apart
(this one just happen to be falling apart) but you could keep it in the
drawer and use that as the bases for legs or whatever. Mine sits on the
table top. I use it for wedging and recycling clay and it has lasted for the
last 5 yrs.
CoilLady
Carol Jackaway
in Parkside Pa. wishing everyone a happy holiday
Jeanne Ormsby on sun 4 apr 99
I am very happy with the wedging table I built using an old wood file
cabinet as a base. It is small, which is fine since I don't have alot of
space. I built a dam around the top of the cabinet using 1 x 4's and
filled it with plaster. Then I made a canvas cover and attached it with
velcro to the sides of the dam. I added casters also, so I could move it
easily and also to bring it up to a good height (I was taught that your
knuckles should just brush the top when you stand next to it. The drawers
in the filling cabinet are great storage.
Jeanne
tgschs10 on wed 7 apr 99
I've used a piece of marble mounted on a wood table for about 20 years. I
find it very usable.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Corle
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, April 02, 1999 9:04 AM
Subject: Wedging Table
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few
months,
my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read
all
about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going
to
get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise...
all the
discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a
lot
more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
should
it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
-------------------------Reply----------------------------------------------
----
------
I constructed a wedging table out of 4x4`s for the legs, 2x4`s and
3/4 inch plywood.
The top 3 1/2 inches is filled with number one pottery plaster.
Just keep pouring batch after batch until full. Try to work as quickly as
possible.
Weight is very important. It should be heavy enough not move when
you are working. The plaster advantage.
I have had no problems with plaster contamination.
Height is important as well. Woodworking benches are constructed
with these guidelines, when standing, the height of the bench should be at
the level of your flattened palm. This height worked well for me in both
kneading and wedging.
The nice thing about wedging on plaster is that you can stiffen the
clay up if the clay is to soft for the forms thrown.
Ed Corle
Ed Corle
Associate Professor of Art
The University of Findlay
1000 North Main Street
Findlay, OH 45840
TEL:419-424-4534
FAX:419-424-4822
millie carpenter on fri 9 apr 99
the pieces of marble that I use were part of tables once. One is
finished side up and is a wonderful smoothe work surface that doesn't
absorb moisture. the other piece is unfinished side up and absorbs
moisture, and gives an interesting surface texture.
they are both on a low table and I have the edge closest to me propped
up by bricks so that what little wedging that I do (love my bluebird de
airing pug mill) is easier on my wrists.
Millie in Md. where is is 80 degrees and summer
> I've used a piece of marble mounted on a wood table for about 20 years. I
> find it very usable.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Corle
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Friday, April 02, 1999 9:04 AM
> Subject: Wedging Table
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm new here and fairly new to pottery. After taking a course for a few
> months,
> my wife bought me a wheel for my 50th birthday (not a bad present?) I read
> all
> about wheels in the clayart archives and talked to my teacher-- I was going
> to
> get a Brent B but I needed a reversing switch since I throw clockwise...
> all the
> discount places I could find (Bennetts, Kickwheel...) said it would cost a
> lot
> more to get the switch on a B or C because they don't stock the wheels with
> them. So... they convinced me that I'd be better off with a CXC, since that
> comes with the switch... so I got it (it hasn't arrived yet) and feel plenty
> guilty that such a novice got such a wheel. I hope I do it justice.
>
> But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
> tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
> plaster.
> Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
> should
> it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
>
> -------------------------Reply----------------------------------------------
> ----
> ------
> I constructed a wedging table out of 4x4`s for the legs, 2x4`s and
> 3/4 inch plywood.
> The top 3 1/2 inches is filled with number one pottery plaster.
> Just keep pouring batch after batch until full. Try to work as quickly as
> possible.
> Weight is very important. It should be heavy enough not move when
> you are working. The plaster advantage.
> I have had no problems with plaster contamination.
> Height is important as well. Woodworking benches are constructed
> with these guidelines, when standing, the height of the bench should be at
> the level of your flattened palm. This height worked well for me in both
> kneading and wedging.
> The nice thing about wedging on plaster is that you can stiffen the
> clay up if the clay is to soft for the forms thrown.
>
> Ed Corle
>
> Ed Corle
> Associate Professor of Art
> The University of Findlay
> 1000 North Main Street
> Findlay, OH 45840
> TEL:419-424-4534
> FAX:419-424-4822
Greg Macdonald on sun 2 apr 00
When I made a wedging table I framed it with plywood and then filled it
with plaster. I was dissapointed that bits of plaster would get mixed in
with the clay as a result of the wedging process.
I cut an old slate chalkboard {from a local school that is being
renovated} to size and stuck it to the top of the plaster table with a
little freshly mixed plaster to bed it firmly. It works great. Slightly
less water absorbtion but no plaster in the clay.
Good luck.
Greg Macdonald
Sheron Roberts on fri 7 apr 00
------------------
I couldn't help but laugh at Amy's
reply to Sibylle's post.
I mentioned a tombstone guy in
my last post. Actually, the company
is called
Monument Works , this gentleman
has given me some of his =22mistakes=22.
I have
a reflecting pool near the studio with a
center fountain. That fountain is made
frorm granite blocks he had carved the
wrong dates on. Instead of =22recycling=22
or doing something with these =22mistakes=22
he buries them. (How's that for a twist
of irony). I found out and asked him if
I could have them. He said sure if you can
pick them up, solid granite, you can have
them. With the help of friends I now have
3 tombstones, names and all (but hidden
by turning the faces inward) in my pool.
He is the guy who said he could order a
slab of slate for me and shape it for me.
When I feel the need for a larger table I
will do just that.
Sheron in NC (wondering if those sounds
I hear at night are ghosts in the pool=21)
Linda Fletcher on sun 9 apr 00
------------------
Hi All,
I think Sibylle's wedging stone is a great idea. Since here in the US we =
would
be arrested if we removed a gravestone, I think ordering one's own =
gravestone
would be a practical solution. You could use it for a wedging surface until =
such
time as it is needed for it's intended purpose.
Stay centered.
Linda here in NH where it keeps bouncing from summer back to winter every 12
hours =21
Paul Kirwin on sun 16 apr 00
-------------------
I am building my own studio and am searching for an article
which will illustrate and describe how to make a wedging table. Does anyone
know how or can you guide me in the right direction to make my own?
Thanks. Barbara from connecticut
Email address. Paul.Kirwin=40worldnet.att.net
terence long on tue 11 jul 00
I'm just about to construct a wedging table. What do people think about =
height (eg wrist or finger-tip level?) and whether a slope is good or =
not?
ASHPOTS@AOL.COM on thu 13 jul 00
I have a new wedging table. It is 30 inches high, and was built by a
woodworker buddy. The trees were part of the ones i had to cut down to build
my shop and roads.I hauled them to a sawmill where i worked on Saturdays till
they were cut. And it is a fine piece of furniture. Chris even used walnut
pegs on the pine legs and top.We built it out of 2x6's and the legs are 4x4's.
It held 200 lbs of plaster. I love it. It doesnt move when i wedge
Capt Mark "Lookout Mountain Pottery"
PS come and visit
Jean Cochran on tue 18 jul 00
Dear Ingeborg,
I just built a frame of 2 x 4s on top of a 30" x 30" sheet of 1/2"
plywood. Then mixed the plaster and poured it into this box and
smoothed the surface. After drying for (I forgot how long) enough time
to be completely dry, I took a piece of pillow ticking and stapled it to
the 2 x 4s, being sure to stretch tightly. My cutting wire is secured
tightly, with two turnbuckles, to one side of the wedging table's 2 x 4
and to the wall. Since 1984 I have had to replace the pillow ticking
once. It keeps the plaster from getting in the clay.
Good luck,
Jean Wadsworth Cochran
Fox Hollow Pottery (in a real hollow in Kentucky)
New Haven, Kentucky
Ingeborg Foco on tue 18 jul 00
Hello,
What is on the bottom of the plaster? Did you secure steel mesh, rocks or
some material that would allow the plaster to dry faster or is it just
plaster on top of plywood?
Thanks,
Ingeborg
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: wedging table
> I have a new wedging table. It is 30 inches high, and was built by a
> woodworker buddy. The trees were part of the ones i had to cut down to
build
> my shop and roads.I hauled them to a sawmill where i worked on Saturdays
till
> they were cut. And it is a fine piece of furniture. Chris even used walnut
> pegs on the pine legs and top.We built it out of 2x6's and the legs are
4x4's.
> It held 200 lbs of plaster. I love it. It doesnt move when i wedge
>
> Capt Mark "Lookout Mountain Pottery"
>
> PS come and visit
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ingeborg Foco on wed 19 jul 00
DeBorah,
I have a table built similar to Capt Mark's but also not as beautiful. =
I've had it for l5 years and mine was done with particle board on the =
bottom (3/4") after the plaster set, I cut circles in the particle board =
to allow for more air movement and drying. It has worked well. Your =
method sounds better yet. I will consider that when I get ready to redo =
mine.
Thanks
Ingeborg
WHew536674@CS.COM on wed 19 jul 00
Plaster on top of plywood has always worked well for me, made one for home
and a couple for school, still in good condition.
Joyce A
DeBorah Goletz on wed 19 jul 00
Ingeborg,
I just built a new wedging table too. Not as beautiful as Capt. Mark's but
very sturdy with some practical features. The plaster top is separate from
the base. The base has 2x6 legs (heavy and strong), and the top of the base
is a frame of 2x4's with several more 2x4's running parallel to each other
(in the center)for support.
The plaster top was cast inside a frame of 1x4's on top of a piece of glass
(I placed clay snakes around the bottom outside edge of the frame to keep
plaster from oozing out). Once the plaster hardened, the frame could be
lifted off the glass and set on the base. The plaster is exposed to air
both underneath and above to allow for quicker drying. The wooden frame
stays around the edge of the plaster top to protect it from getting bumped
and chipped. When the plaster top gets worn, I'll just flip it over for a
new surface (actually I'll use one side for iron bearing clays and the other
side for white clay bodies).
One more feature I added was two 2x4's running the length of the table near
the floor, angled and spaced just far enough apart to hold all my bats
upright. The bats add extra ballast to the table and are always handy.
Best,
DeBorah
James Bledsoe on mon 24 jul 00
I prefer to use the sift to island method for mixing plaster, and eye-ball
the amount of plaster needed.
If you mix too small a batch just make more. If in the 5 gallon
bucket you greased before mixing the plaster in still has enough plaster in
it to be considered a waste then let it go off and harden. It will drop
out of the bucket and you will have bonus bat. The grease is key. Pam
works, so does motor oil, and Vaseline. Conversely Gregory's info is
something i have wondered about most every time i have embarked on a plaster
expedition , and there have been many. I am printing out his posting and
will keep it safe.
Someone else earlier to day no-plaster in the clay that is sound advice.
you can make a very fine wedging slab that is two inches thick out of
concrete if you put a steel mesh inside it will be lighter than the plaster
because it is thinner and you will not get plaster in your pots.
p.s. Plaster in a pot is bad because after a couple of years the plaster
will absorbed some water and expand leaving a small eruption in the glaze.
This plaster does not come from wedging tables it comes from using clay in
mold making and then reusing it for pottery.
Good pots to you
jim
At 11:45 AM 7/24/00 -0400, you wrote:
> HELLO,
> Concerning this subject :) Does anyone have a good method or equation
>for calculating the amount of plaster to mix up for the wedging table? I
>have calculated the volume of the space to be filled and got a number I'm
>not sure what to do with. How do I convert to lbs? I am a terrible math
>mind and apologize for the elementary nature of the post. Most importantly
I
>need to know how much water is required in advance because the water onsite
>runs quite red and so I have to plan to bring or filter the correct amount.
>My main fear is not having enough. Another concern for those who pour
their
>own tables- mine's not level is that a great problem? it is about 1/2-1/4
>inch discrepancy any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks A.
>
> > From: Ingeborg Foco
> > Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:23:11 -0700
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Re: [CLAYART] wedging table
Hi Ingeborg,
This is paraphrased from Susan Peterson's book, The Craft and Art of Clay
(p. 92-93):
Figure 20 oz. of plaster for every U.S. pint of water. (120 g plaster for
100 cc water)
There are 81 cubic inches in a U.S. quart of water. Use this formula to
AK on mon 24 jul 00
HELLO,
Concerning this subject :) Does anyone have a good method or equation
for calculating the amount of plaster to mix up for the wedging table? I
have calculated the volume of the space to be filled and got a number I'm
not sure what to do with. How do I convert to lbs? I am a terrible math
mind and apologize for the elementary nature of the post. Most importantly I
need to know how much water is required in advance because the water onsite
runs quite red and so I have to plan to bring or filter the correct amount.
My main fear is not having enough. Another concern for those who pour their
own tables- mine's not level is that a great problem? it is about 1/2-1/4
inch discrepancy any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks A.
> From: Ingeborg Foco
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:23:11 -0700
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: [CLAYART] wedging table
>
> Hello,
>
> What is on the bottom of the plaster? Did you secure steel mesh, rocks or
> some material that would allow the plaster to dry faster or is it just
> plaster on top of plywood?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ingeborg
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 4:08 AM
> Subject: Re: wedging table
>
>
>> I have a new wedging table. It is 30 inches high, and was built by a
>> woodworker buddy. The trees were part of the ones i had to cut down to
> build
>> my shop and roads.I hauled them to a sawmill where i worked on Saturdays
> till
>> they were cut. And it is a fine piece of furniture. Chris even used walnut
>> pegs on the pine legs and top.We built it out of 2x6's and the legs are
> 4x4's.
>> It held 200 lbs of plaster. I love it. It doesnt move when i wedge
>>
>> Capt Mark "Lookout Mountain Pottery"
>>
>> PS come and visit
>>
>>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Gregory D Lamont on mon 24 jul 00
At 11:45 AM 7/24/00 -0400, you wrote:
> HELLO,
> Concerning this subject :) Does anyone have a good method or equation
>for calculating the amount of plaster to mix up for the wedging table? I
>have calculated the volume of the space to be filled and got a number I'm
>not sure what to do with. How do I convert to lbs? I am a terrible math
>mind and apologize for the elementary nature of the post. Most importantly I
>need to know how much water is required in advance because the water onsite
>runs quite red and so I have to plan to bring or filter the correct amount.
>My main fear is not having enough. Another concern for those who pour their
>own tables- mine's not level is that a great problem? it is about 1/2-1/4
>inch discrepancy any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks A.
>
> > From: Ingeborg Foco
> > Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:23:11 -0700
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Re: [CLAYART] wedging table
Hi Ingeborg,
This is paraphrased from Susan Peterson's book, The Craft and Art of Clay
(p. 92-93):
Figure 20 oz. of plaster for every U.S. pint of water. (120 g plaster for
100 cc water)
There are 81 cubic inches in a U.S. quart of water. Use this formula to
calculate the volume to be filled with plaster:
Height X Width X Width divided by 81=quarts of water for given volume.
Multiply this volume by the recommended weight of plaster per liquid volume
of water recomemded for your plaster.
Example:
4" X 24" X 24" = 2304"
2304/81 = 28.44 quarts of water (round up to 29 quarts)
29 quarts = 58 pints
20 oz. X 58 = 1160 oz.
1160 oz. / 16 = 72.5 lbs of plaster.
Another way to think about this is to use the adage, "a pint is a pound the
world around." This means that a pint of water (16 oz.) weighs one pound.
According to Susan Peterson, many professional moldmakers use 3 lbs.
plaster to 2 pints water, regardless of the brand of plaster used.
If this is the case, in the above example we would have 29 lbs. of water:
3 X 29 = 84 lbs. of plaster.
This method calls for more plaster for a given amount of water, which would
would give a denser plaster mix and it would set up faster.
Whichever method you use, good luck, and make sure none of the plaster gets
into your clay, as it will cause nasty "pop-outs" to occur in the firing.
Greg
E-mail address:
gdlamont@isunet.net
Pottery Web Page:
http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
Mailing address and Phone:
Greg Lamont
3011 Northwood Drive
Ames, IA 50010-4750
(515) 233-3442
Mike Gordon on tue 25 jul 00
Hi,
If you go to lagunaclay.com/products/plaster.htm you will find a table
for mixing plaster as well as types of plaster available. I use plaster
in my wedging table and have had no problems. I always clean up with
water and a piece of old burlap - no scraping! Clean before and after
wedging. Mike Gordon
Steve Mills on wed 26 jul 00
I'm with Phil Rogers, having in the past lost half a ton of clay on two
occasions through plaster contamination I won't have it in my workshop
(even the moulds I have are biscuit fired clay), even if it is covered
with canvas. My wedging bench currently is good thick slate. Was a
paving slab. My drying board is an inch thick piece of mica based
insulation board which stands against the wall when not in use!!!!
Steve
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
don hunt on thu 12 sep 02
Be sure to use chicken wire or hardware cloth (same stuff, smaller
holes) to add strenght. I like to give new clay a couple of body slams
before we start wrestling.
Don Hunt
Ann Brink on mon 3 nov 03
Hello Gay,
My wedging table is 30" high and feels just right. It's low enough for me
to let my upper body weight help with pushing. I stand back a little from
the table. My table is set tight in a corner, so it feels really stable.
My kitchen counter is 36", and I definitely wouldn't want to wedge on
anything that high.
Good firings,
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA
My husband has offered to build me a wedging table. But I don't know what
would be the best height. The ones we use at school are very low-lower than
dinner table height. I knead bread on a table that is kitchen counter
height. I can't figure out what works best ergonomically. I'm a senior
just getting started in this activity and I want to be as considerate of my
body as possible! Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Gay Judson in San Antonio, TX
Gay Judson on mon 3 nov 03
My husband has offered to build me a wedging table. But I don't know =
what
would be the best height. The ones we use at school are very low-lower =
than
dinner table height. I knead bread on a table that is kitchen counter
height. I can't figure out what works best ergonomically. I'm a senior
just getting started in this activity and I want to be as considerate of =
my
body as possible! Any help will be greatly appreciated.=20
Gay Judson in San Antonio, TX
Carol Tripp on tue 4 nov 03
Hi Gay,
Wearing the footwear you normally wear to work in the pottery, stand with
your arm hanging down at your side. Relax the arm and hand. Where your
fingers graze the surface is the height your wedging table should be.
In an old Ceramics Monthly, I remember seeing a sit-down wedging bench being
used in China. The man stradled the bench and the bench sloped downwards
from him.
Wedging on a slope downwards from yourself has been discussed previously.
Many people found that having the wedging board at a slight angle made it
easier on the muscles. Just something to think about.
And don't forget the wire attached to the wall and then to one corner of the
table so you can do the cut and slam efficiently. Oh yes, and use soft
clay. Soft clay seems to be a hot topic lately. It's good for protecting
your senior self.
Best regards,
Carol
Dubai, UAE
Where my clay shipment sits in Port Rashid. So near, yet so far... Just
think, DHL took 7 days to deliver my shipping documents from Toronto to
Dubai. How's that for express? The *^%#@&*'s
Gay wrote:
>My husband has offered to build me a wedging table. But I don't know what
>would be the best height. The ones we use at school are very low-lower
>than
>dinner table height. I knead bread on a table that is kitchen counter
>height. I can't figure out what works best ergonomically. I'm a senior
>just getting started in this activity and I want to be as considerate of my
>body as possible! Any help will be greatly appreciated.
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
Cl Litman on tue 4 nov 03
A number of years ago at the Minneapolis NCECA, I attended a talk by an
occupational therapist. She worked almost exclusively with potters. Her
suggestion was that the table top be the height of your knuckles when you
are standing straight, arms by your side with your hands in a fist. She
also felt the table should tilt slightly away from you. This allows you
to use the bigger muscles of your back and shoulders to wedge rather than
smaller hand and arm muscles. After that session I cut down one table a
bit and found it really did feel much better.
Cheryl Litman - NJ
cheryllitman@juno.com
On Mon, 3 Nov 2003 17:20:31 -0600 Gay Judson
writes:
> My husband has offered to build me a wedging table. But I don't know
> =
> what
> would be the best height. The ones we use at school are very
> low-lower =
> than
> dinner table height. I knead bread on a table that is kitchen
> counter
> height. I can't figure out what works best ergonomically. I'm a
> senior
> just getting started in this activity and I want to be as
> considerate of =
> my
> body as possible! Any help will be greatly appreciated.=20
>
> Gay Judson in San Antonio, TX
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Culling on tue 20 jan 04
Best work table /wedging table at Tech was made from inch thick fibre cement
board. It is also called "hardiboard" I think?... is used to line and floor
bathrooms - lovely smooth surface, absorbent, easy to clean and cuts easy
too - ask a builder for an off-cut for a wedging table - is cement and
cellulose I think years ago had asbestos in similar stuff but proved to be
too dangerous. anyway works like a dream but the 12 x 8 foot size weighed
and awful lot!!! :-)))) I've used smaller bits (and thinner!) since to good
effect and you don't have to know how to make concrete. My present wedging
table is concrete - my husband made it in a metal frame with a metal base ,
in situ at the end of my work bench - is 1 1/2 inches thick and he
sprinkles and smoothed in cement onto the curing surface to give it a lovely
smooth and sealed finish - no loose particles. Another college I attended
had metal frames on legs you place a 2 foot square concrete paver in -they
had bubbles in the surface sometimes but were adequate if you could select
from a few of them!!
Nils Lou on fri 7 may 10
I teach my students to spiral wedge and to cut/n/slap.
There are advantages to each, depending on the clay.
For spiral wedging I built a sturdy table that supports
a slab of slate. It's about two feet by seven feet, and=3D20
perhaps 1-1/2" thick. It was cheap having been procured from
a billiard table manufacturer in town as a second. The neat thing
about the slab of slate, besides being a perfect surface to
wedge on is that I elevate the back about two inches so I can
wedge on a slanted surface--easy on my elderly back! Try it...
nils lou, professor of art
http://nilslou.blogspot.com
www.tinyurl.com/bpc5nm
503.883.2274
"Play is the essence of creativity", and
"What is not brought forward into consciousness....
we later call Fate", Carl Jung
Lee Love on fri 7 may 10
I usually wedge on the wheel, for shaping blocks into cones. If I
have to wedge something that don't work there, I use a board I can
place on any table.
One way to have gravity assist your wedging is by having the
wedging surface lower, In my teacher's studio, we wedged on the
platforms we sat on. They come up to your knuckles if you make a fit
and hold your arm, extended downwards. You don't have to have it
this low, but at your waist or lower is kinder on your joints. Along
with soft clay.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Jackie.Miller.Clay on mon 23 jul 12
I would like to thank all of you who gave me ideas for the wedging table. T=
h=3D
e consensus is for a table shorter than I thought, so I am glad I had all t=
h=3D
e expertise of Clayart to help out.
Jackie=3D20
Ben Morrison on mon 23 jul 12
I have an old steel case desk from the 50's that I use as my wedging table.=
I've attached a frame to the top and poured a slab of plaster on one side,=
with a canvas covered board on the other half with a cut wedging wire in t=
he middle. It works well for my purposes.
________________________________
From: Jackie.Miller.Clay
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 2:31 PM
Subject: Wedging table
I would like to thank all of you who gave me ideas for the wedging table. T=
he consensus is for a table shorter than I thought, so I am glad I had all =
the expertise of Clayart to help out.
Jackie
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