Vince Pitelka on tue 18 mar 97
In a post the other day I referred to wheel wedging, and Talbot wrote asking
me to elaborate. He suggested that I post my response to the list. Here it is:
ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
I have been amazed at the number of well-trained potters who do not
wheel-wedge. There is also a faction of potters from the Mingei-Sota
tradition who specifically avoid wheel-wedging because they do not want to
force the clay to be that symmetrical. I always wheel-wedge, and find that
it makes any form easier to throw. To wheel wedge, one simply applies a
force similar to centering, but without confining the center top of the
lump, so that it rises into a tall lump. As it begins to rise, simply raise
your hands with the column, continuing to apply a "squeezing" force, so that
it tapers smaller towards the top. When it has risen to approximately twice
the height of a normal centered lump, raise the ball of your left hand up on
top of the column and force it back down, maintaining pressure from the side
of the lump with the other hand to prevent the clay from mushrooming over.
I usually raise the clay up and down two or three times. When you place a
ball of clay on the wheel, the platelates are oriented in currents depending
on how the clay was prepared, and these currents may not be at all alligned
anywhere near the spiral which is most conducive to thrown forms. When you
wheel-wedge, the friction of your hands against the clay twists the lump all
the way to its core, setting up the desireable spiral currents of clay
platelates. When you wheel wedge, use barely enough water, in order to
maximize the friction.
Hope this helps.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
Appalachian Center for Crafts
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
David Donica on wed 19 mar 97
My first instructor called this process, "coning up"- it also serves to
most efficiently bring air bubbles to the center of the spiral so they get
popped when you open.
Maggie Shepard
FireWorks Pottery
Mt. Shasta, Calif.
Vince Pitelka on tue 19 jan 99
I received several inquiries about the wheel wedging process,and decided to
post my response to the list.
When you initially center the clay on the wheel, you are only centering the
exterior, and the residual internal currents of platelates remain random
from the original wedging. For some people, that is enough, and the
irregularities become part of the essential expression of the clay. That is
fine. However, if you wish to achieve maximum symmetry and uniformity, it
helps to center the clay internally, alligning the platellets in a spiral,
ready for throwing.
After normal centering, apply enough pressure from the side so that the
spinning clay has no way to go but up, rising in a tall cone. Press the
clay back down with the palm of one hand, while maintaining side pressure
with the other hand to prevent mushrooming of the clay, which can trap
pockets of slurry, causing other problems. Raise and depress the clay
several times until it feels smooth and responsive, free of irregularities.
Don't over lubricate the clay, because the drag against your hands does the
essential work.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Barney Adams on thu 21 jan 99
I wheel wedge each time, but more from the point of view of getting to
know the feel of the clay. I began the wheel wedging to align the clay
platelets, but it's become more of a ritual of addressing the clay. It
gets easier as the hand muscles strengthen from doing it.
Barney
Vince Pitelka wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I received several inquiries about the wheel wedging process,and decided to
> post my response to the list.
>
> When you initially center the clay on the wheel, you are only centering the
> exterior, and the residual internal currents of platelates remain random
> from the original wedging. For some people, that is enough, and the
> irregularities become part of the essential expression of the clay. That is
> fine. However, if you wish to achieve maximum symmetry and uniformity, it
> helps to center the clay internally, alligning the platellets in a spiral,
> ready for throwing.
>
> After normal centering, apply enough pressure from the side so that the
> spinning clay has no way to go but up, rising in a tall cone. Press the
> clay back down with the palm of one hand, while maintaining side pressure
> with the other hand to prevent mushrooming of the clay, which can trap
> pockets of slurry, causing other problems. Raise and depress the clay
> several times until it feels smooth and responsive, free of irregularities.
> Don't over lubricate the clay, because the drag against your hands does the
> essential work.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
> Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Rick hugel on thu 21 jan 99
That is a very interesting explanation of how to wheel wedge clay. The
thing that has me wondering though is that you had to explain it in the
first place. I always thought everyone did this because that is how they
were trained. A I wrong?
Rick
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I received several inquiries about the wheel wedging process,and decided to
>post my response to the list.
>
>When you initially center the clay on the wheel, you are only centering the
>exterior, and the residual internal currents of platelates remain random
>from the original wedging. For some people, that is enough, and the
>irregularities become part of the essential expression of the clay. That is
>fine. However, if you wish to achieve maximum symmetry and uniformity, it
>helps to center the clay internally, alligning the platellets in a spiral,
>ready for throwing.
>
>After normal centering, apply enough pressure from the side so that the
>spinning clay has no way to go but up, rising in a tall cone. Press the
>clay back down with the palm of one hand, while maintaining side pressure
>with the other hand to prevent mushrooming of the clay, which can trap
>pockets of slurry, causing other problems. Raise and depress the clay
>several times until it feels smooth and responsive, free of irregularities.
>Don't over lubricate the clay, because the drag against your hands does the
>essential work.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
>
>Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
>Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
>Appalachian Center for Crafts
>Tennessee Technological University
>1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Mike Gordon on thu 21 jan 99
Hi Vince,
I've seen this done but how in hell is it done with 25lbs. of Rods Bod?
That clay is very hard out of the bag! Mike
Vince Pitelka on fri 22 jan 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Vince,
>I've seen this done but how in hell is it done with 25lbs. of Rods Bod?
>That clay is very hard out of the bag! Mike
Mike -
That is a challenge. Wheel-wedging that amount of clay all at once requires
real brute strength, and it is not good for you. If I was determined to
throw such large things, I would wheel-wedge ten pounds, flatten the
centered lump, scrape off the surface with a metal rib, add another ten
pounds, wheel wedge that, etc.
If your Rod's Bod always comes out of the bag stiff, then Laguna is
slipping. Before Laguna, back when Rod's Bod was a product of Westwood
Ceramic Supply, I threw an enormous amount of that clay over a ten-year
period. Never found it any stiffer than other stoneware bodies. I always
loved it. Tried all the other Westwood stoneware bodies (and other brands),
but never found one better than Rod's Bod.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Vince Pitelka on fri 22 jan 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>That is a very interesting explanation of how to wheel wedge clay. The
>thing that has me wondering though is that you had to explain it in the
>first place. I always thought everyone did this because that is how they
>were trained. Am I wrong?
Rick -
The only thing you can assume about how all potters are trained is that we
are taught to make vessels from clay. Anything beyond that is probably an
unwarranted generalization, because there is such extraordinary variation
in teaching and learning approaches.
I am frequently come across people who were never taught to wheel wedge, and
often encounter people who were specifically trained NOT to wheel wedge. It
is by no means mandatory to wheel wedge to throw a fine pot. It all depends
on the degree to which you want to impose your will upon the clay. I impose
my will upon the clay quite a bit. Many others allow the natural
inclinations of the clay more of a role in the development of form and
surface, and I often greatly admire their work.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Bill Williams on fri 22 jan 99
I'm glad you responded the way you did. I have been wanting to say
something since I first started reading all the talk about wedging. I was
also taught to wheel wedge, but I thought perhaps I shouldn't say anything
because I don't feel qualified. Figured all this time I must have been
doing something wrong, since no one else had mentioned wedging clay the way
I do. I had the opportunity to spend several hours watching and
questioning the potter at Silver Dollar City in Missouri. He sits for hours
and makes everything from cups to huge fountains. He was wheel wedging his
clay, the same way I had been taught. I asked him if he mixed his own, but
he said he used far too much, didn't have time to mess with it and so bought
it and used it right out of the bag. He used a white cone 10 clay they
purchase from a supplier in Nixa, Mo, a little town outside of Springfield.
I don't feel quite so "out of it" now. Thanks. Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick hugel
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: Wheel Wedging
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
That is a very interesting explanation of how to wheel wedge clay. The
thing that has me wondering though is that you had to explain it in the
first place. I always thought everyone did this because that is how they
were trained. A I wrong?
Rick
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I received several inquiries about the wheel wedging process,and decided to
>post my response to the list.
>
>When you initially center the clay on the wheel, you are only centering the
>exterior, and the residual internal currents of platelates remain random
>from the original wedging. For some people, that is enough, and the
>irregularities become part of the essential expression of the clay. That
is
>fine. However, if you wish to achieve maximum symmetry and uniformity, it
>helps to center the clay internally, alligning the platellets in a spiral,
>ready for throwing.
>
>After normal centering, apply enough pressure from the side so that the
>spinning clay has no way to go but up, rising in a tall cone. Press the
>clay back down with the palm of one hand, while maintaining side pressure
>with the other hand to prevent mushrooming of the clay, which can trap
>pockets of slurry, causing other problems. Raise and depress the clay
>several times until it feels smooth and responsive, free of irregularities.
>Don't over lubricate the clay, because the drag against your hands does the
>essential work.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
>
>Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
>Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
>Appalachian Center for Crafts
>Tennessee Technological University
>1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Earl Brunner on sun 24 jan 99
I tend to agree, (and you will probably say, THAT's agreeing?) many of those
who don't impose as much of their will on the clay, are the ones that I consider
to be the ones that throw "loosely". I know there was a discussion awhile back
on exactly what "loosely" meant. I don't REALLY want to start that again. I
get a little disturbed whenever this comes up though. I know too many potters
that use this as an excuse to not have to learn how to throw with precision. I
think that you need to know the rules to be able to authoritatively break them.
Doesn't bother me when Tom Coleman throws an off center pot. It does bother
me when one of my students that has less than 100 hours of wheel time under
their belt begins to act like they can make lousy pots with validity when they
can't throw and acceptable 8 inch cylinder.
Earl Brunner
Vince Pitelka wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> ............... It all depends on the degree to which you want to impose your
> will upon the clay. I impose my will upon the clay quite a bit. Many others
> allow the natural inclinations of the clay more of a role in the development
> of form and surface, and I often greatly admire their work.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
> Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
John K. Dellow on mon 25 jan 99
Now Vince has explained the term wheel wedging , the penny dropped , its what I
taught as coning the clay :). I don't do it with soft groggy terracotta clay , b
when using the white poo I have been known to cone once or twice .
As for my wedging of large amounts of terracotta clay I use the slam & cut met
,6 to 10 times in 25 kg lots.
Lili mentioned the old industrial potters , I'm a younger version ( just a lad
50) & use one of those wheels . The speed is controlled by a treadle. Some of th
" Scotch Friction " wheels were set up as sit down and some as stand up . I pre
to sit , but the advantage is its easy to stand up and throw as well . I sit wh
centring & easing up , then stand to knuckle , rib up & finnish.
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
ICQ : #2193986 {jacka}
E-mail : dellow@usa.net
25 Hugh Guinea Ct, Worongary Q 4213
Ph:+61-7-55302875 Fax:+61-7-55253585
Home Page : http://welcome.to/jkdellow
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