Marshall on sun 1 dec 96
Question-- My wife and I "debate" as to when it is safe (for the pottery)
to open the kiln after a glaze fire-- we go to cone 10 in our car kiln
which has about an internal space of about 50 cubic feet... We do the
pre-cooling routine (pulling peeps and damper) AFTER the kiln sets closed
up tight for about 32 hrs. or so.. I do the paper test through a peep hole
to make sure that it has cooled below 451 degrees Fahrenheit before I even
consider cracking the door for additional heat venting... I don't want the
glazes to ping or craze due to rapid cooling because of my excitement to
see what "Santa has brought"... you know the feeling!!! After saying all
of that it is usually about 50 hrs after the firing before we actually
start to unload the kiln after a ^10 firing.. So I am asking you... what
your "kiln opening schedule" is like if it is dramatically different from
ours .... Marshall
Celia & Marshall Talbott
Pottery By Celia
Route 114
P.O. Box 4116
Naples, Maine 04055-4116
(207)693-6100 voice and fax
clupus@ime.net
LINDA BLOSSOM on mon 2 dec 96
Dear Marshall,
If you are 10 on a scale of 1-10 then I am probably at number 2. After
firing, I close the damper. I leave the ports open and the peep holes
closed. 40 minutes later, I open the damper halfway. This is about 10 pm.
At 7 in the morning when my husband is leaving, he pulls the damper plate
out and a few hours later, I go out and crack the door. By this time, it
is about 200 degrees centigrade. A couple of hours later, I open the door
wide to finish the cool. I have also shut down and not closed anything.
This I do if I am firing copper reds. I fire sinks, tiles,
pedestals...nothing has crazed or cracked because of this. (I used to cool
slowly and I actually think I get better results the faster way)
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850
blossom@lightlink.com
http://www.artscape.com
607-539-7912
LBCLAY@aol.com on mon 2 dec 96
Hi folks,,,
this is when I open the kiln.....
After i've finished my 14 - l9 hour reduction firing,,,i am happy to push the
damper in,,make sure the spy holes are closed and cover my burner ports and
go to bed.
Once the kiln has gone black (approximately 16 hrs,,) I open the damper and
pull the spy hole plugs and open the burner ports.....
then wait,,and occasionally peak in the spy holes with a flashlight....
at approx..400 degrees i crack the door...then gradually open it....
total cooling time....around 24 hrs...
stacking kiln dimensions,,,45 inch deep (2 stacks) and 22 inches wide
(bagwall to bagwall)
I have been having a great time reading all the comments on this list....!
Thought I'd add my two cents....
Have a good one!
Dave and Pat Eitel on tue 3 dec 96
So I am asking you... what
>your "kiln opening schedule" is like if it is dramatically different from
>ours .... Marshall
>
>Celia & Marshall Talbott
Marshall--At this time of year I'm especially eager to cut whatever corners
I can without sacrificing ware. I allow my kiln (which is similar in size
to yours) to cool to below 700 fahrenheit before opening the peeps and
burner ports.I open the damper after 24 hours. My last firing finished at
about 7 pm the Tuesday before Thanksgiving. I opened the damper Wednesday
evening, pulled the peeps and opened the ports about 5 hours later, and
began unstacking the door at 7 a.m. Thursday. I had the kiln unloaded by
11 a.m. A minimum of pinging--but there's always a little. No problems.
Later...Dave
Dave Eitel
Cedar Creek Pottery
Cedarburg, WI
pots@cedarcreekpottery.com
http://www.cedarcreekpottery.com
Andrew Berends on tue 3 dec 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dear Marshall,
>
>If you are 10 on a scale of 1-10 then I am probably at number 2. After
>firing, I close the damper. I leave the ports open and the peep holes
>closed. 40 minutes later, I open the damper halfway. This is about 10 pm.
>At 7 in the morning when my husband is leaving, he pulls the damper plate
>out and a few hours later, I go out and crack the door. By this time, it
>is about 200 degrees centigrade. A couple of hours later, I open the door
>wide to finish the cool. I have also shut down and not closed anything.
>This I do if I am firing copper reds. I fire sinks, tiles,
>pedestals...nothing has crazed or cracked because of this. (I used to cool
>slowly and I actually think I get better results the faster way)
>
>
>
>Linda Blossom
>2366 Slaterville Rd.
>Ithaca, NY 14850
>blossom@lightlink.com
>http://www.artscape.com
>607-539-7912
Huh?? So you are cool in what--five hours? What about your poor shelves? No
problem there? Are your glazes oxidation or are you looking for full
reduction results? I would love to hear more on your cooling process
because it would be so fantastic to think about cooling faster than the two
days it takes my kiln to cool. I seal the burner ports with kaolwool, leave
everything else shut and try not to even think about the kiln until 36
hours later when I take out a peep! Please go in to more detail.
Natalie in Vermont
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---========================================================================-
--JX-8P (PG800), Juno 106, Juno 2 (Pg 200), D-50 (PG 1000), R70, SH101,
Matrix 1000, ARP 2600, Ts10, ASR 10, DP4+, Dx27s, K3, K4, K5m, Siel
DK600+Expander, Wurlie 200, Hammond M3, Poly 800, Delta, CZ1000, SK1,
Thomas Cheese Organ,
Mac 7100/80, Opcode Vision,Galaxy+, Studio 5LX, Vortex, DBX 266, Bag End
Subs ETC...
Jan Lipuma on tue 3 dec 96
I have opened electric ^6 and sometimes ^7 firings after as few as 6 hours,
wrapped the HOT pots in towels to protect from the air (this is inside air)
and had no problems. The platters I leave in the open kiln a while longer.
This morning, however, I did a dumb move and placed a hot casserole onto
metal shelving. This shelving was not particularly cold, having stood
about 2 feet away from the kiln during the firing. Very soon, even while
basking in the warmth of my new pot victories: c r a c k // right up the
side! soooooo, i guess you can pull 'em hot == but watch out what you then
do with them.
I have always marvelled at the difference here between fuel and electric
firings in regard to the stresses on the pots.
back to the studio
Janice Lipuma
Blue Moon Studio Pottery
Lexington KY
p.s. this does not necessarily result in crazed pots (not to continue THAT)
Gerry Barbe on wed 4 dec 96
On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Jan Lipuma wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have opened electric ^6 and sometimes ^7 firings after as few as 6 hours,
> wrapped the HOT pots in towels to protect from the air (this is inside air)
> and had no problems.
Oh boy, I did this once, and once only. Maybe I went a bit overboard
though. I wrapped the hot pots in towels and placed them all nice and
cozy warm in a basket. After a short period of time the towels started to
smoke, and I think I unwrapped them (real quick!!) just before spontaneous
combustion took place.
Marilyn,
Ailsa Craig Village Pottery
______________________________________________________________________________
Bob Hanlin on wed 4 dec 96
I used to be an 8 now I'm about a 5. When I shut the gas off I leave the
peep hole plugs in, the damper closed. When I can put a rolled up newspaper
in the peep and it just sort of smokes and turns brown (but does not
ignite), I pull the peeps. When the newspaper doesn't smoke anymore I pull
the damper and the top center brick (Yeah, I stack the door). Then I go out
every hour or half hour and remove some more bricks. When the door is all
unstacked I ooooh, aaaaah or say the "S" word and unstack the thing.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Dear Marshall,
>>
>>If you are 10 on a scale of 1-10 then I am probably at number 2. After
>>firing, I close the damper. I leave the ports open and the peep holes
>>closed. 40 minutes later, I open the damper halfway. This is about 10 pm.
>>At 7 in the morning when my husband is leaving, he pulls the damper plate
>>out and a few hours later, I go out and crack the door. By this time, it
>>is about 200 degrees centigrade. A couple of hours later, I open the door
>>wide to finish the cool. I have also shut down and not closed anything.
>>This I do if I am firing copper reds. I fire sinks, tiles,
>>pedestals...nothing has crazed or cracked because of this. (I used to cool
>>slowly and I actually think I get better results the faster way)
>>
>>
>>
>>Linda Blossom
>>2366 Slaterville Rd.
>>Ithaca, NY 14850
>>blossom@lightlink.com
>>http://www.artscape.com
>>607-539-7912
>
>
>Huh?? So you are cool in what--five hours? What about your poor shelves? No
>problem there? Are your glazes oxidation or are you looking for full
>reduction results? I would love to hear more on your cooling process
>because it would be so fantastic to think about cooling faster than the two
>days it takes my kiln to cool. I seal the burner ports with kaolwool, leave
>everything else shut and try not to even think about the kiln until 36
>hours later when I take out a peep! Please go in to more detail.
>
>Natalie in Vermont
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>---========================================================================-
>--JX-8P (PG800), Juno 106, Juno 2 (Pg 200), D-50 (PG 1000), R70, SH101,
>Matrix 1000, ARP 2600, Ts10, ASR 10, DP4+, Dx27s, K3, K4, K5m, Siel
>DK600+Expander, Wurlie 200, Hammond M3, Poly 800, Delta, CZ1000, SK1,
>Thomas Cheese Organ,
>Mac 7100/80, Opcode Vision,Galaxy+, Studio 5LX, Vortex, DBX 266, Bag End
>Subs ETC...
>
>
Bob Hanlin
3504 N. Tulsa
Oklahoma City, OK 73112
e-mail bhanlin@ionet.net
LINDA BLOSSOM on wed 4 dec 96
Natalie your math needs some help! 10pm to 7am is 9 hours and three more
makes 12. The damper is pulled to about 3 cm after about 40 minutes unless
I am firing reds or celadons and the damper at the end of the firing is
usually at 2 cm so I just leave it there in that case. I no longer close
up the ports, but the peeps are closed at the end of the firing so I just
leave them alone. Nine hours later, the damper is removed completely.
About two hours later I go out and the temp is about 200 C so I undo the
door, letting it stand about an inch ajar. Then a couple of hours after
that, with the temp at about 100C, I open the door wide and let the inside
cool completely. The bottom is already cool but the top is not. I don't
remove anything until it is cool because of the hot upper shelves that I
want to cool with the ware. Well, if I can get any tests in the bottom,
that are cooled, I do my best. My shelves are fine and I don't get cracks
in pieces that are fairly thick by pottery standards. My sinks are over
1/2? thick and have wide sculpted rims. The pedestals are about 30" tall
and start (stand) in the faster cooling bottom and finish in the slower
cooling top. No cracks here either.
I used to seal everything and take forever to cool. I think it was
overkill. A sudden contact with cold is one thing. A faster cool is
another.
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850
blossom@lightlink.com
http://www.artscape.com
607-539-7912
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