primalmommy on sun 15 apr 07
David, tell me about your wood kiln. How many hours does it take you to
fire it? How hot does it get,and what's the range from hot to cool
spots? Do you rake out embers or leave them in? How do you stoke? What's
it made of? Can you recommend a book/website/plans that would describe
your type of kiln? Did you modify yours to make it work differently?
How's that for a barrage of questions? lol... picture me like the little
chicken hawk in Foghorn Leghorn cartoons, running circles around your
feet.
I'll understand if you send me to the archives, but please give me a
starting place. You guys have talked about this stuff forever but it
never made sense to me until I tried firing one!
BTW, David, the salt kiln we unloaded Friday morning had another batch
of ewers/cruets in it, the page of salt pix is linked on my home page.
After my review, the coordinator hung around for a few minutes and
showed me which two he would like to buy if they were ever for sale --
one with a vertical roulette mark up the center, and another with rows
of those little faces you mentioned!
Yours
Kelly in Ohio, cleaning my long neglected home studio. The trash can by
the curb runneth over with bisque not worth firing, pots too ugly to
live, and dusty student work I have stored for way too long.
http://www.primalpotter.com
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David Hendley on mon 16 apr 07
Jeez Kelly, I would have to send you a tuition bill if I fully
answer all these questions.
I will answer curtly because I don't have time to sit here
for an hour or two. We can visit in person some time, and
I will send details if you decide you really want to build one.
----- Original Message -----
> David, tell me about your wood kiln. How many hours does it take you to
> fire it?
It will fire in 6 or 7 hours, but the pots look better if
it is slowed down to 9 or 10 hours.
>How hot does it get,and what's the range from hot to cool
> spots?
I fire to cone 10 flat. I don't know how hot it would be able
to go if I kept stoking. There are no hot or cool spots. It
is totally, 100% even, front-to-back, side-to-side, top-to-
bottom, except the very bottom inch or so, which is maybe
a half-cone cool.
>Do you rake out embers or leave them in?
You have to remove some coals or the air would be choked
off. Usually 4-to-6 times in a firing. I throw them back end
at the end of the firing.
>How do you stoke?
Shove boards onto the grates.
>What's it made of?
9" thick insulating firebrick walls, 7" thick IFB arch, 9"
thick hardbrick fireboxes.
>Can you recommend a book/website/plans that would describe
> your type of kiln?
The Kiln Book by Fred Olsen. It IS an Olsen Fastfire design.
>Did you modify yours to make it work differently?
Yes, it's 50% bigger, the fireboxes, flues, and chimney are
correspondingly bigger. The walls are thicker, the chimney
is round. I don't use the 'trick brick', the grates slide in on
ledges, so the can be flipped when they sag.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
Lee Love on mon 16 apr 07
On 4/16/07, primalmommy wrote:
> How many hours does it take you to fire it?
I fire for 15 to 20 hours. You can reach cone 13 in 5 hours, but
then you would have to glaze everything and it would look no different
than gas fired.
> How hot does it get,and what's the range from hot to cool
> spots?
cone 13/14 at the fireface
cone 11 at top at door
cone 9 at bottom of door
cone 6 in flue channel (bizen temps)
> Do you rake out embers or leave them in?
Never have to take coals out.
> How do you stoke?
About 2kgs, one side at a time. When it is going, about every 7
minutes. At 1100*F, you back off to 1.5kgs. A total of 400kgs to
glaze fire.
It is also safe to bisque in, because you can easily keep the
flame from hitting the pots early on.
> What's it made of?
Hardbrick fireboxes and outer walls. Super duty liner and arch with
fiber blanket over the arch. Hardbrick door.
> Did you modify yours to make it work differently?
I have a passive damper port between the fireboxes in the front
and two stoke holes at the back on the sides over the firebox openings
to the ware chamber. My plan is to experiement with oil drip burners
for cooldown and hold firing.
The kiln I fire is a hybrid cross including influences
from the Olsen FF and the first chamber of Casson's two chambered
kiln. Part of every load includes unglazed work. A really
big improvement over the Olsen is that both fireboxes are on the same
side, so you don't have to run from one side to the other to stoke.
It also allows the kiln to safely single fire and bisque fire.
Can't write more, gotta walk Kintaro.
>Can you recommend a book/website/plans that would describe
> your type of kiln?
You can see plans to Euan's design here, as well as photos I took,
step-by-step, as I built my kiln (over 60 photos):
http://public.fotki.com/togeika/my_kiln/
You might find the Woodkiln list useful too:
http://groups.google.com/group/WoodKiln
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Lee Love on mon 16 apr 07
On 4/16/07, Lee Love wrote:
>
> About 2kgs, one side at a time. When it is going, about every 7
> minutes. At 1100*F, you back off to 1.5kgs. A total of 400kgs to
> glaze fire.
This should be 1100*C, not F. And after 1250*F or so, you can go
back to 2kg/stoke.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Helen Bates on mon 16 apr 07
--- primalmommy wrote:
> David, tell me about your wood kiln. How many hours does it take you
> to
> fire it? How hot does it get,and what's the range from hot to cool
> spots? Do you rake out embers or leave them in? How do you stoke?
> What's
> it made of? Can you recommend a book/website/plans that would
> describe
> your type of kiln? Did you modify yours to make it work differently?
>
> How's that for a barrage of questions? lol... picture me like the
> little
> chicken hawk in Foghorn Leghorn cartoons, running circles around your
> feet.
>
> I'll understand if you send me to the archives, but please give me a
> starting place. You guys have talked about this stuff forever but it
> never made sense to me until I tried firing one!
>
> BTW, David, the salt kiln we unloaded Friday morning had another
> batch
> of ewers/cruets in it, the page of salt pix is linked on my home
> page.
> After my review, the coordinator hung around for a few minutes and
> showed me which two he would like to buy if they were ever for sale
> --
> one with a vertical roulette mark up the center, and another with
> rows
> of those little faces you mentioned!
>
> Yours
> Kelly in Ohio, cleaning my long neglected home studio. The trash can
> by
> the curb runneth over with bisque not worth firing, pots too ugly to
> live, and dusty student work I have stored for way too long.
>
> http://www.primalpotter.com
>
>
> Too many bills? Click here to simplify your life and lower your debt.
>
>
>
>
> Click to compare mortgage rates. No obligation, quick and easy.
>
>
>
>
> >
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Helen Bates
Belleville, Ontario, Canada
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Taylor Hendrix on tue 17 apr 07
And Kelly,
You can ask me or the other crazy people on this list who have visited
David and helped him with a firing or two. I can sure tell you about
making the trip to Hell and back, whew.
That kiln of David's has probably spoiled me. Now I think that every
wood kiln can be as easy to fire and produce such great results. I
know that the Olsen FF is sometimes called the "Run Around" but I
don't get it.
Maybe I'm remembering it all a bit subjectively but I don't think so.
Taylor, in Rockport TX who loves fat Elvis.
On 4/16/07, David Hendley wrote:
> Jeez Kelly, I would have to send you a tuition bill if I fully
> answer all these questions.
...
Elizabeth Priddy on tue 17 apr 07
Dear Kelly and other Clayfolk interested in small wood,
I am officially a quickie wood firer now.
I finished the small woodkiln, a Steven Mills style train.
It is technicly a hybrid, as it can be modified for gas in about
30 minutes, blocking off the firebox and opening gas ports.
Primary air comes from underneath the firebox on this design.
We had cone 7 in 4 hours, which is all I wanted, as I was looking
for a low temp wood kiln ala Pancioli.
I think I will road test it to cone 10 this weekend. Just to see how
the ash looks as glaze. It melted a bit at 7 but the work with a little
soft coat of glaze was better.
A beautiful soft plum ash blush going to silver grey where bare.
the range on mine is cone 4-7 flue to fireflow.
I think it would easily do 10-12 if we upped the
firing time to more like 10 hours.
It's ware box is only 3x2x2, but I got a lot of work in it
as bigger is just bigger to me.(bout 20 pots)
I also shove wood into the firebox, about every ten minutes til I get
4inches of flame outthe flue and then back off a bit and just add
whenever the flame tips just under the rim of the flue.
This is a fun kiln for me, it goes with the chimney/saggar, the raku
and my old buddies, the electrics.
A nice kilnyard. And as Lee said wood without time is gas..
It will have to do for a my thesis work this year.
Elizabeth
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
----- Original Message ----
From: David Hendley
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 12:58:18 AM
Subject: Re: David H. and other quickie wood firers
Jeez Kelly, I would have to send you a tuition bill if I fully
answer all these questions.
I will answer curtly because I don't have time to sit here
for an hour or two. We can visit in person some time, and
I will send details if you decide you really want to build one.
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