mel jacobson on thu 24 may 07
any pot can be fired with just air drying.
the ancients sure did not bisque fire.
but, the loss rate is very high...and most
potters will do the math...loss of pots is never
acceptable.
time to make them
clay costs
etc.
so.
timely bisque firing is always good business practice.
a strong 06 bisque just makes sense for raku and pit firing.
often it is higher than the final firing...adds great strength.
just makes good sense.
those that single fire have systems in place that make
it practical for them. it is a very special process, and
not for everyone.
mel
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
John Fulwood on thu 24 may 07
Mel,
I have been single firing for 11 years and I have to disagree with you on the loss rate and special systems. I rarely loose a piece during the glazing process and once they are in the kiln, no problem. All you have to do is fire the kiln like a bisque firing and then, away you go to cone 10. Single firing is just a process and once you learn how to do it, you will never bisque again.
I apply glazes by dipping, pouring and spraying. I have even used glaze tongs on small bowls and slab trays. It is really not as difficult as some might think.
One advantage is that you do not have to wait for a bisque firing to get the pots glazed. This can really help when you forget to make that one pot to complete the set for an order. I did this two days ago. I had an order for a sake set and I needed to make the bottle to complete the set. oops, I forgot. I made it at 8:30 Tues. night and it was glazed and in the kiln last night. From wheel to glaze firing in 26 hours.
Don't be scared, give it a try.
Good luck,
John Fulwood
-----Original Message-----
>From: mel jacobson
>Sent: May 24, 2007 11:15 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: firing green
>
>any pot can be fired with just air drying.
>
>the ancients sure did not bisque fire.
>
>but, the loss rate is very high...and most
>potters will do the math...loss of pots is never
>acceptable.
>time to make them
>clay costs
>etc.
>
>so.
>timely bisque firing is always good business practice.
>a strong 06 bisque just makes sense for raku and pit firing.
>often it is higher than the final firing...adds great strength.
>just makes good sense.
>
>those that single fire have systems in place that make
>it practical for them. it is a very special process, and
>not for everyone.
>mel
>
>from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
>website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
>Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
John Fulwood
Kissimmee River Pottery
One 8th St. #11
Frenchtown, NJ. 08825
www.kissimmeeriverpottery.com
Chris trabka on fri 25 may 07
John,
When do you burn out the organic compounds in the clay?
When do you start reduction?
The concern I have with your statement pertains to my glazes and firing
schedule. My glazes include copper reds, rutiles, and celedons. All require
reduction. I start reduction at cone 015 for the copper reds. I do not
believe the organics and other compounds that burn out during a bisque
would be burnt out by cone 015, which would cause problems with the clay
body.
Chris
Vince Pitelka on fri 25 may 07
Chris Trabka wrote:
> When do you burn out the organic compounds in the clay?
> When do you start reduction?
> The concern I have with your statement pertains to my glazes and firing
> schedule. My glazes include copper reds, rutiles, and celedons. All
> require
> reduction. I start reduction at cone 015 for the copper reds. I do not
> believe the organics and other compounds that burn out during a bisque
> would be burnt out by cone 015, which would cause problems with the clay
> body.
Chris -
As you know, many potters single-fire successfully, and the secret is to
proceed through the intial stages of the firing just as if you were
bisque-fire, and perhaps even a bit slower, to allow effecient outgassing
through the glaze coatings. If you do proceed slowly, outgassing of
sulfates, carbonates, and chemically-combined water will be pretty much
finished by 1400 degrees F, which is cone 015, so you'd be safe.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Lee Love on sat 26 may 07
On 5/25/07, Chris trabka wrote:
> John,
>
> When do you burn out the organic compounds in the clay?
> When do you start reduction?
>
> The concern I have with your statement pertains to my glazes and firing
> schedule. My glazes include copper reds, rutiles, and celedons. All require
> reduction. I start reduction at cone 015 for the copper reds. I do not
> believe the organics and other compounds that burn out during a bisque
> would be burnt out by cone 015, which would cause problems with the clay
> body.
Frequently here in Japan, they only bisque to dull red heat so parts
of the bisque load will be under cone 015.
I have found that shinos behave more like tradtional shinos
(more nice crawling and pinholing) when glazed on a low temp bisque.
I have even bisqued on top of the wood stove, simply putting a fiber
blanket over the pot.
I have no idea how it would effect copper reds, but it would be very
easy to find out with test tiles.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
John Fulwood on fri 1 jun 07
Hi Chris,
The organic compounds burn out just as they would in a bisque firing. Vince seems to have the answer you are looking for regarding your reduction. I start reduction @ 1900 and my pinks and reds do fine. I have had some problems in the past with my albany fake ash glaze but as long as I keep the kiln neutral or in oxidation through 08 all is well in my world.
Do a test and see what happens,
john
-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris trabka
>Sent: May 25, 2007 10:51 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: firing green
>
>John,
>
>When do you burn out the organic compounds in the clay?
>When do you start reduction?
>
>The concern I have with your statement pertains to my glazes and firing
>schedule. My glazes include copper reds, rutiles, and celedons. All require
>reduction. I start reduction at cone 015 for the copper reds. I do not
>believe the organics and other compounds that burn out during a bisque
>would be burnt out by cone 015, which would cause problems with the clay
>body.
>
>Chris
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
John Fulwood
Kissimmee River Pottery
One 8th St. #11
Frenchtown, NJ. 08825
www.kissimmeeriverpottery.com
| |
|
