Eric Suchman on sat 26 may 07
What frit would I use for an overglaze china paint style? Using
mason stains perhaps. Is this possible? ^ 016-018
eric in oceanside
Paul Lewing on sun 27 may 07
On May 26, 2007, at 9:47 PM, Eric Suchman wrote:
What frit would I use for an overglaze china paint style? Using
mason stains perhaps. Is this possible? ^ 016-018
Yes, it's possible. You want a frit with virtually no alumina
content, so 3134 is the obvious choice among the frits that potters
frequently use. I was recently given some frit 9630 that made
acceptable china paints with Mason stains. Be aware that you need to
use more colorant than you're used to in glazes, typically 20-30%.
However, that having been said, it's really not a good use of your
time to make your own, for a number of reasons. The quantities of
any one color that you might use are very small (a pound of china
paint is an enormous amount), the materials are hazardous (most china
paints include lead, and so does frit 9630, because everyone agrees
that the lead-free paints are not as good), and commercial suppliers
make hundreds of different colors (far more variety and subtlety that
you can get with Mason satins). Unfortunately, for some very good
reasons, no regular ceramic supplier that I know of carries china
paints. If you need some sources, either find (or preferably buy) a
copy of my book "China Paint & Overglaze" and look in the back for
suppliers, or e-mail me privately and I'll send you a list. And if
you need further advice or info on china painting, I'll be glad to help.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
John Sankey on mon 28 may 07
Eric Suchman wrote, "What frit would I use for an overglaze china
paint style? Using mason stains perhaps. Is this possible?"
I'm starting on this road too - see
http://sankey.ws/pottery2.html
I gather we are better off using frits for low-fired glazes
because the fluxes are water soluble - I'm planning to start with
a Mason stain in any case because I want a chrome-tin red and
they are tricky.
I get a lot of doubtfully shaking heads about the adherence of
low-fired overglaze to a high-fired base unless there is lead
in the overglaze, in fact that essentially all commercial
overglazes use lead. Since I want foodsafe, I'm matching the
expansion coefs of under and over glaze carefully, will clean the
surface of the base glaze very carefully, and will just have to
see. I've tried a few experiments roughening gloss glazes, with
very poor results - either far too much roughening or none at
all. So, I'm going with a semi-matt base glaze that has a bit
inherently rougher surface. (I prefer soft glosses anyway.)
My progress is painfully limited by a group kiln that goes dead
during the summer - it's up to three weeks between firings now.
But, I've just got my own old kiln that seems to work;
experiments will speed up once the few parts I need for it
arrive.
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