Doug Jones on wed 30 may 07
Cindy,
I tried some Coyote glazes recently when I thought my gas company wasn't
going to get my line run for my gas kiln in time for a couple of shows. I
spoke to the owner of Coyote and we chatted quite a bit about the use of his
glazes (mostly shino looking glazes). If you are having problems call them
toll free (866) 344-2250 and they will help you out. I know one thing he
stressed was to wash the pots prior to applying the glaze.... gets the dust
off and helps with absorbency. This may help get rid of the pin holing (and
cracking) also his mixed glazes seem to come thick and you may need to thin
a bit as it says on the label. Call them. Good Luck
Doug Jones, Amelia Island Pottery
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Cindy Moore
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 5:18 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: coyote glaze
I am using a coyote glaze that I brush on. I get craters in it when I apply
it and need to rub them out when the glaze is dry. Does anyone know what is
causing it and how to correct it. Thanks
____________________________________________________________________________
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Cindy Moore on wed 30 may 07
I am using a coyote glaze that I brush on. I get craters in it when I apply
it and need to rub them out when the glaze is dry. Does anyone know what is
causing it and how to correct it. Thanks
Pat Lindemann on wed 30 may 07
How thick is your glaze? Your water ratio? If it just is leaving little
air bubbles before firing, it may be that the glaze needs to be thinned down
a bit or your bisque ware is dusty...but I will let the glaze experts
dissect this one. :)
take care!
Pat
On 5/30/07, Cindy Moore wrote:
>
> I am using a coyote glaze that I brush on. I get craters in it when I
> apply
> it and need to rub them out when the glaze is dry. Does anyone know what
> is
> causing it and how to correct it. Thanks
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Kathi LeSueur on thu 31 may 07
>
>
> On 5/30/07, Cindy Moore wrote:
>
>>
>> I am using a coyote glaze that I brush on. I get craters in it when I
>> apply it and need to rub them out when the glaze is dry. Does anyone
>> know what
>> is causing it and how to correct it. Thanks
>>
>>
>>
Why not call Coyote and talk to them. Afterall, it is their glaze, they
know how to use it, and I'm sure they want to see that you are happy
with it.
Kathi
Earl Brunner on fri 1 jun 07
Am I the only person who doesn't necessarily see a correlation between
"bubbles" in an unfired applied glaze and a fired one? One does not mean or
necessarily lead to the other.
Earl Brunner
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Cindy Moore
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 5:18 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: coyote glaze
I am using a coyote glaze that I brush on. I get craters in it when I apply
it and need to rub them out when the glaze is dry. Does anyone know what is
causing it and how to correct it. Thanks
____________________________________________________________________________
Lisa Elbertsen on mon 4 jun 07
The bubbles in the glaze will not affect the final outcome.
I used Coyote glaze which I brush on and my own glazes. Almost all of my
Coyote glazes have bubbles when I brush them on esp. for the glazes where
I have to do many coats. This does not affect the fired piece what-so-
ever.
Test out two pieces for peace of mind. Paint on the glaze the same for
both but brush off your bubbles on one and not the other and see what
outcome you get when fired.
Regards,
Lisa
www.LisaElbertsen.com
Ron Roy on tue 5 jun 07
Hi Earl,
I agree - unless the glaze is so stiff and unmelted that those original
imperfections remain.
The bubbles and blisters are usually the result of gases escaping and the
glaze not having a chance to heal over.
RR
>Am I the only person who doesn't necessarily see a correlation between
>"bubbles" in an unfired applied glaze and a fired one? One does not mean or
>necessarily lead to the other.
>
>Earl Brunner
\
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Cindy Moore on thu 21 jun 07
Help, I purchased a automatic scutt a month ago. I can not get my glazes to
come out without a few pinholes or very small blisters. I have only been
using coyote so cannot say that it would not happen with all my glazes. I
am getting way behind. I have spoke with skutt, and coyote, can't think of
anything else. They did get a little better at cone 5 with 25 minute hold,
but started to get warping on the dishes then. Anyone have any idea what I
am doing wrong. I had no problem with these on small picture frames I made
in my old kiln at cone 6. I love these glazes on want to figure this out. I
have tried 5 with a 15 minute hold and a 25 minute and with no hold. Using
fast speed also tried slow, speed. Skutt said not to take any peepholes out
except the top one and not to prop the lid.
William & Susan Schran User on fri 22 jun 07
On 6/21/07 10:03 AM, "Cindy Moore" wrote:
> I can not get my glazes to
> come out without a few pinholes or very small blisters. I have only been
> using coyote so cannot say that it would not happen with all my glazes. I
> am getting way behind. I have spoke with skutt, and coyote, can't think of
> anything else. They did get a little better at cone 5 with 25 minute hold,
> but started to get warping on the dishes then. Anyone have any idea what I
> am doing wrong. I had no problem with these on small picture frames I made
> in my old kiln at cone 6. I love these glazes on want to figure this out.
The answer may very well be in your question.
I don't see why Skutt would have an answer as the kiln is functioning as
intended.
You state that the blister/pinhole issue was better with a longer hold at
^5.
You also state that you had no problem with these glazes at ^6.
Perhaps these glazes need to be fired to ^6.
If you dishes are warping with a hold at ^5, then perhaps you need another
clay body that will function better at ^6.
The other thought would be that you may need to fire a slower and higher
temperature bisque to be certain to burn out materials that could cause
blisters/pinholes in the glaze.
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
John and Judy Hesselberth on sat 23 jun 07
>> They did get a little better at cone 5 with 25 minute hold,
>> but started to get warping on the dishes then. Anyone have any
>> idea what I
>> am doing wrong. I had no problem with these on small picture
>> frames I made
>> in my old kiln at cone 6. I love these glazes on want to figure
>> this out.
Hi Cindy,
I'll come at this from a little different direction than Bill Schran
did. Are you sure you are firing to cone 5 in your new kiln and/or
that your old one was at cone 6? While I am a lover of computer
controlled kilns I will NEVER trust one to give me the correct firing
temperature. I always use large cones to verify and adjust
accordingly. I consider the so-called "auto-fire" programs built into
these computers to be worse than useless. I have simply seen too much
variability kiln to kiln and time to time within the same kiln to
have any value for these auto-fire programs.
If, on the other hand, your data are from large cones then Bill's
suggestions should help. But if you are telling us computer readouts,
check your results with cones. I have seen 1- 1 1/2 cone differences
computer to computer. In other words your old kiln might have been
firing to cone 5 and your new one to cone 6. Large witness cones are
the only way to tell.
Regards,
John
William & Susan Schran User on sat 23 jun 07
On 6/23/07 11:06 AM, "John and Judy Hesselberth"
wrote:
> If, on the other hand, your data are from large cones then Bill's
> suggestions should help. But if you are telling us computer readouts,
> check your results with cones. I have seen 1- 1 1/2 cone differences
> computer to computer. In other words your old kiln might have been
> firing to cone 5 and your new one to cone 6. Large witness cones are
> the only way to tell.
John is absolutely "on the money" with this and shame on me for not asking
if witness cones were used in both the old & new kilns.
I'm a true believer in the use of cones in ANY firing. It is truly the only
way to get a true sense of the heat work that was applied to the clay/glaze.
I am a recent convert to programmable kilns. Using a programmable kiln to do
my crystalline firings allows me much more accurate control of the firing
schedule. Some firings have had up to ten segments (changes in heating or
cooling) and I don't know that I could have done that in a manually
controlled kiln. But, every firing, includes a set of three cones, even if I
don't look at them during the firing!.
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
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