Baker, Michael on fri 29 jun 07
Hello,
I'm new to clayart and fairly new to clay. I threw in highschool and
college, and about three months ago bought a kiln and wheel to enjoy
pottery as a serious hobby.=20
I can throw some fairly decent pieces, but I often lose pieces not
during throwing, but trimming. I received a Giffin Grip as a gift, and
it's okay, but doesn't center really well (lots about this in the
archives, I see).=20
Before the Giffin grip, I used the old method of clay tabs to hold pots
in place and trimmed that way, often to find pieces flying off the wheel
or not staying centered.=20
Since I'm a beginner, sometimes I wonder if my pieces are just thrown
somewhat off center and that makes the process harder, but it seems like
I still loose pieces that are well-thrown.=20
Also, I have always thought that I must have a foot ring, but I have
seen other potter's pieces where there isn't a ring... so if I knew it
was okay to not trim a ring, that would definitely make things easier on
some pieces.
Anyway, if anyone has any advice on how to help the trimming process,
I'd love to hear it. Maybe learning to trim is a right of passage as a
potter and I just need to practice more! :-)
Thanks,
Mike
Wichita, KS
Lee Love on fri 29 jun 07
Throw 50 pieces to trim. Tell yourself, you are only going to keep
the best 10.
Don't let every one be too precious. It makes you choke and screw up.
Also, make sure you are using the correct trimming tool for the
hardness of the clay. Beginners usually trim too hard. If the clay
is hard, you need a sharp tool. If you trim soft, a duller tool
works better, even a bamboo knife works better on really soft
trimming.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Eric Suchman on fri 29 jun 07
Ditto Charles,
I too, love trimming. It's one of the ways to get really thin ware.
Alot of translucent ware is produced with trimming. Sometimes alot
of trimming. How is trimming different from throwing it's is really
just an extension of it.
Keep at it.... it's important.
-Eric in Oceanside
On Jun 29, 2007, at 10:24 AM, Charles Hightower wrote:
> Thats too bad. I LOVE trimming. I have a Giffin as
> well. I center the piece in the grip and also use clay
> coils at the base for extra support. Push the coils
> down with a wet sponge and you can really go to town
> without clay flying off. What I really enjoy is
> centering my chuck in the grip. Put a bottle in the
> chuck, wrap a coil between the pot and the chuck and
> trim away! If the coil is loose for you, just sponge
> it down as well. Clean up the marks latter. Trimming
> is an important skill. You'll get there.
> --- "Baker, Michael"
> wrote:
Leland Hall on fri 29 jun 07
Hi Mike,
I too tried Giffins and clay tabs when I first started, with not that great
of results.
Then I learned about throwing ones own "chucks", and now have a collection
of them. I havn't used the Giffen Grip for years. Sometimes I still use
clay tabs for small oddly shapped pieces, but by and large I think that
chucks are the way go. Good luck, and hope this helps!
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
La Pine, Oregon, USA
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 04:58:03 -0400, Baker, Michael
wrote:
> Hello,
>
>I'm new to clayart and fairly new to clay. I threw in highschool and
>college, and about three months ago bought a kiln and wheel to enjoy
>pottery as a serious hobby.
>
>I can throw some fairly decent pieces, but I often lose pieces not
>during throwing, but trimming. I received a Giffin Grip as a gift, and
>it's okay, but doesn't center really well (lots about this in the
>archives, I see).
>
>Before the Giffin grip, I used the old method of clay tabs to hold pots
>in place and trimmed that way, often to find pieces flying off the wheel
>or not staying centered.
>
>Since I'm a beginner, sometimes I wonder if my pieces are just thrown
>somewhat off center and that makes the process harder, but it seems like
>I still loose pieces that are well-thrown.
>
>Also, I have always thought that I must have a foot ring, but I have
>seen other potter's pieces where there isn't a ring... so if I knew it
>was okay to not trim a ring, that would definitely make things easier on
>some pieces.
>
>Anyway, if anyone has any advice on how to help the trimming process,
>I'd love to hear it. Maybe learning to trim is a right of passage as a
>potter and I just need to practice more! :-)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike
>Wichita, KS
>
Charles on fri 29 jun 07
Mike,=0A=0AIt's certainly acceptable to not have a foot ring, industry does=
it all the time, some people like it, but to me it's kind of like the guy =
in the office who does just enough to get by. Attention to detail..every de=
tail you can control makes the pot Okay, Good, Great, or a piece of Fine Cr=
aft. I know in my own work when I cut corners I am not proud and the work d=
oesn't have the same finished quality, but when I can take the time and do =
whatever it takes to make my vision happen it makes a huge difference in th=
e final piece AND I feel good about it, because I know I took the time to d=
o it right. Take the time, learn the craft. Then make the decisions about w=
hat you are going to do or not. It can make the difference between a piece =
of art and a basic bowl.=0A=0AWhen I was working out of St. Pete Clay in Fl=
orida, someone had written on the wall "a pot without a soul is just clay a=
round a hole" my advice is take the time to give your pieces a soul.=0A=0AI=
recently received a Giffen Grip as a gift. It is a great tool. It has real=
ly helped me trim my hundred of cups much more efficiently, but but if it =
doesn't start centered, the Giffen Grip can't center it either. I find that=
if my rim is the least bit uneven, my foot is uneven too.=0A=0AHappy Potti=
ng=0A=0ACharles=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0AVisit me on the web www.hughespotte=
ry.com=0A=0A=0AInterested in lessons? www.thecreativeoasis.com=0A=0A=0A =0A=
=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "Baker, Michael" VICESGROUP.ORG>=0ATo: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0ASent: Friday, June 29, 200=
7 3:58:03 AM=0ASubject: [CLAYART] I hate trimming=0A=0A=0AHello,=0A=0AI'm n=
ew to clayart and fairly new to clay. I threw in highschool and=0Acollege, =
and about three months ago bought a kiln and wheel to enjoy=0Apottery as a =
serious hobby. =0A=0AI can throw some fairly decent pieces, but I often los=
e pieces not=0Aduring throwing, but trimming. I received a Giffin Grip as a=
gift, and=0Ait's okay, but doesn't center really well (lots about this in =
the=0Aarchives, I see). =0A=0ABefore the Giffin grip, I used the old method=
of clay tabs to hold pots=0Ain place and trimmed that way, often to find p=
ieces flying off the wheel=0Aor not staying centered. =0A=0ASince I'm a beg=
inner, sometimes I wonder if my pieces are just thrown=0Asomewhat off cente=
r and that makes the process harder, but it seems like=0AI still loose piec=
es that are well-thrown. =0A=0AAlso, I have always thought that I must have=
a foot ring, but I have=0Aseen other potter's pieces where there isn't a r=
ing... so if I knew it=0Awas okay to not trim a ring, that would definitely=
make things easier on=0Asome pieces.=0A=0AAnyway, if anyone has any advice=
on how to help the trimming process,=0AI'd love to hear it. Maybe learning=
to trim is a right of passage as a=0Apotter and I just need to practice mo=
re! :-)=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0AMike=0AWichita, KS=0A=0A_________________________=
_____________________________________________________=0ASend postings to cl=
ayart@lsv.ceramics.org=0A=0AYou may look at the archives for the list or ch=
ange your subscription=0Asettings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/=0A=
=0AModerator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pcli=
nk.com.
Charles Hightower on fri 29 jun 07
Thats too bad. I LOVE trimming. I have a Giffin as
well. I center the piece in the grip and also use clay
coils at the base for extra support. Push the coils
down with a wet sponge and you can really go to town
without clay flying off. What I really enjoy is
centering my chuck in the grip. Put a bottle in the
chuck, wrap a coil between the pot and the chuck and
trim away! If the coil is loose for you, just sponge
it down as well. Clean up the marks latter. Trimming
is an important skill. You'll get there.
--- "Baker, Michael"
wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I'm new to clayart and fairly new to clay. I threw
> in highschool and
> college, and about three months ago bought a kiln
> and wheel to enjoy
> pottery as a serious hobby.
>
> I can throw some fairly decent pieces, but I often
> lose pieces not
> during throwing, but trimming. I received a Giffin
> Grip as a gift, and
> it's okay, but doesn't center really well (lots
> about this in the
> archives, I see).
>
> Before the Giffin grip, I used the old method of
> clay tabs to hold pots
> in place and trimmed that way, often to find pieces
> flying off the wheel
> or not staying centered.
>
> Since I'm a beginner, sometimes I wonder if my
> pieces are just thrown
> somewhat off center and that makes the process
> harder, but it seems like
> I still loose pieces that are well-thrown.
>
> Also, I have always thought that I must have a foot
> ring, but I have
> seen other potter's pieces where there isn't a
> ring... so if I knew it
> was okay to not trim a ring, that would definitely
> make things easier on
> some pieces.
>
> Anyway, if anyone has any advice on how to help the
> trimming process,
> I'd love to hear it. Maybe learning to trim is a
> right of passage as a
> potter and I just need to practice more! :-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> Wichita, KS
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
threereeds1 on fri 29 jun 07
Michael,
I think that I know where you are.
I believe that if you try to circumvent the trimming process that you
will deny yourself a great lot of opportunity.
Trimming is easy, take it slowly. trimming a foot ring lifts the body of
your work
off of a surface. How far can be a critical element in the enjoyment of a
piece.
The footring also helps reduce thermal shock between content and surface.
...and then there is the unfinished look when the piece is turned over.
Please don't cheat yourself or the potential of your work.
Trimming is not hard.
Centering is not hard.
Pulling handles is not hard.
Knowing how and when (moisture content) takes observation and patience.
Go slow, look closely, feel what is happening.
Specifically:
If work is flying off the wheel...slow down.
Griffin grips center perfectly every time...by measurement, not mass.
(I am sure that no archived post complains that a griffin grip doesn't
center.)
The grip naysayers are anti technology or old fashioned (pre-grip learners)
and they don't like change!
If your center of mass is not the same as the center of volume the trouble
lies in a previous step.
If a pot is distorted in shape from a true radially symmetrical shape, then
adjustments can be made
to the stops:
On a Griffin grip you can use layers of canvas or shammy over a support to
bring the desired center
to the center of the wheel.
With chalks, center the piece on its rim and then add the chalks.
Same with a chuck.
Position the piece on the wheel. Rotate it slowly using a needle or stick
held to the side
near the intended ring location. Move in until the pointy thing touches the
pot. This
place is then moved toward the center. repeat until as close as desired to
true center.
then shim out the grip arm so that they all contact at the same time.
Or add the chalks at this time.
Trim with a sharper tool or duller depending on moisture.
trim when the pot is drier (and stronger) or wetter and smoother.
All your skills will improve with practice. If you are not satisfied seek a
local potter
that can show you what you need to see.
When you learn to center well and open well and lift and shape well...your
trimming skills will
be there for you.
Best of luck,
Tom King
Michael wrote:
I can throw some fairly decent pieces, but I often lose pieces not
during throwing, but trimming. I received a Giffin Grip as a gift, and
it's okay, but doesn't center really well (lots about this in the
archives, I see).
Before the Giffin grip, I used the old method of clay tabs to hold pots
in place and trimmed that way, often to find pieces flying off the wheel
or not staying centered.
Since I'm a beginner, sometimes I wonder if my pieces are just thrown
somewhat off center and that makes the process harder,
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Michael Wendt on fri 29 jun 07
Mike,
Cool name by the way.. :-)
The Giffin Grip is worth learning to use.
Like any tool, it takes practice.
We use it here for production work
because it allows a technique I developed
which I call the follower method.
To trim using the follower method,
you need a cheap vinyl glove for your
left hand which reduces friction and
prevents skin wear. Harbor Freight sells
them for $3.00/100.
Surround the pot with the left hand loosely
and rest the trim tool hand on the left thumb
knuckle. It acts as a follower base which
allows you to trim any pot, round or not
with ease since the mouth is held securely
by the grip. Keep your speed low and
your tools sharp to get best results.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
Randall Moody on fri 29 jun 07
Mike,
If you have set up the Giffin Grip correctly it will be dead on center
every time. That being said, I don't throw dead on center. I have
found that I am usually a tiny bit off but I am fine with that. If
your pots are "flying off the wheel" slow down and keep a finger on
the center of the pot. I recently saw what looks like a tiny, maybe
two inches in diameter, banding wheel for this use.
There is no hard fast rule that says you must have a foot ring. I
throw most of my larger vases (~18") without one. I roll the bottom
edge on a table when the piece is leather hard to give it a finished
look and then gently bump the bottom with the heel of my hand so that
the bottom isn't flat.
Hope this helps.
Randall
lyla_kaplan on fri 29 jun 07
Hi Mike
your posting reminds me of my trimming woes...i DO think practice and
time certainly help, but i saw a linda christianson workshop that was
eye-opening for me. her thing was - if you don't enjoy something, find
a way not to do it, or find a way to enjoy it. she said she hated
trimming until she worked out her own method. she works with not-quite
leatherhard pots and does it very quickly and simply.
when i have a form that i know will want to move off, i make a little
pad that goes under the rim so the pot goes down in, and then add clay
tabs to the whole thing. someone was recently telling me mel jacobson
doesn't use anything except fo ra little water, and taps into center,
pushes gently on the top so suction is created and voila, he can trim.
(of course, he has good rims and tons of practice)
sorry, no advise for tall forms, i don't trim them, but i know folks
use griffen grips or chucks for those.
lyla
PA
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, "Baker, Michael" wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm new to clayart and fairly new to clay. I threw in highschool and
> college, and about three months ago bought a kiln and wheel to enjoy
> pottery as a serious hobby.
>
> I can throw some fairly decent pieces, but I often lose pieces not
> during throwing, but trimming. I received a Giffin Grip as a gift, and
> it's okay, but doesn't center really well (lots about this in the
> archives, I see).
>
> Before the Giffin grip, I used the old method of clay tabs to hold pots
> in place and trimmed that way, often to find pieces flying off the wheel
> or not staying centered.
>
> Since I'm a beginner, sometimes I wonder if my pieces are just thrown
> somewhat off center and that makes the process harder, but it seems like
> I still loose pieces that are well-thrown.
>
> Also, I have always thought that I must have a foot ring, but I have
> seen other potter's pieces where there isn't a ring... so if I knew it
> was okay to not trim a ring, that would definitely make things easier on
> some pieces.
>
> Anyway, if anyone has any advice on how to help the trimming process,
> I'd love to hear it. Maybe learning to trim is a right of passage as a
> potter and I just need to practice more! :-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> Wichita, KS
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________=
___
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@...
>
Anne Doyle on fri 29 jun 07
Hi Mike,
I had issues with trimming as well... & after losing many pieces and the
heartbreak of that, I learnt to slow down...
I loved my GG, it changed the learning curves landscape for me big-time,
but i since took another course and learnt to trim without it, and it was
better... took the dread out of the exercise for me...
I sometimes think now that in the trimming, the deeper beauty of a piece
is revealed... it goes from a clay pot to a piece with a story... i can
make a dozen bowls in a sitting, and although they're not identical,
(they're more like cousins really),with the trimming i can make them
pretty darn close... sometimes i got too eager in the beginning and
trimmed right through a bottom, but not so much anymore... i also had to
slow the drying down so i had better control, letting pieces air-dry was
not always the best cause when i was ready to trim, they weren't! Either
too soft or too dry, & not as nice for trimming...
i found that trimming is another exercise in centering only now with a
semi-formed piece rather than a ball of clay... there are no shortcuts for
that really, just practise, practise, practise... but once you "get it"
you'll wonder why you thought it was so tough...
Hope this helps...
Anne, in Saint-Sauveur,
looking forward to firing the test kiln tomorrow with a dozen new glaze
tests ready in it... Fun, Fun!!
Veena Raghavan on fri 29 jun 07
Hi Mike,
I think that once you have the knack for trimming (like all skills, it needs
practice), you will find it very relaxing. You might even get to enjoy it. You
can throw a beautiful pot, and then you can refine it and make even more
beautiful with trimming. Chucks are great, and another way to fix a bowl on the
wheel for trimming, is to dampen the rim and the wheel head, center the bowl,
press it down slightly to make it stick, and even take a sharpish wooden tool
and press it gently against the rim, and turn the wheel slowly This should seal
it to the wheel head. Hope this helps. You are already getting plenty of great
advice, so maybe this has already been said.
Good luck and happy potting.
Veena
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
Patty Kaliher on sat 30 jun 07
I love trimming. Throwing pots is a form of circular mediation. When
trimming, I just enjoy the spinning pot in front of me and focus on it and
the way it's shape changes under the trimming tool. So restful. Makes me
think I may understand the fascination woodturning has for so many
woodworkers. Try at least once to forget about the finished product and
enjoy the process.
Patty Kaliher
Randall Moody on sat 30 jun 07
The only problem I see with this post is that it implies that not trimming a
foot ring is "doing just enough to get by" or that a not having a foot ring
is somehow "cutting corners" or not "doing it right". This is not
necessarily the case. If you want a foot ring make one if you don't, don't.
Don't let anyone tell you that you have to have this or that on a pot
because until there is some sort of rule book it is all just opinion. That's
my opinion.
Randall
On 6/29/07, Charles wrote:
>
>
>
> It's certainly acceptable to not have a foot ring, industry does it all
> the time, some people like it, but to me it's kind of like the guy in the
> office who does just enough to get by. Attention to detail..every detail you
> can control makes the pot Okay, Good, Great, or a piece of Fine Craft. I
> know in my own work when I cut corners I am not proud and the work doesn't
> have the same finished quality, but when I can take the time and do whatever
> it takes to make my vision happen it makes a huge difference in the final
> piece AND I feel good about it, because I know I took the time to do it
> right. Take the time, learn the craft. Then make the decisions about what
> you are going to do or not. It can make the difference between a piece of
> art and a basic bowl.
>
>
Eleanor on sat 30 jun 07
Dear Michael,
Me too.
That said, as you have already learned from the list responses, it
may have to be done to produce a "good" pot.
So let me add:
The GG works better on a properly centered pot if the pot is leather-
hard to the point where the rim is rigid. Otherwise, as you tighten
the GG the pads will dig into the rim (or wherever you have placed
them) and distort the clay. If the pot is so hard that trimming is
difficult, you can moisten the area to be trimmed. I keep a spray
bottle of water around for that purpose.
If your pot is off center -- some people call that "altered" :) --
you can trim it on the wheel. Center the bottom of the pot, the part
that needs trimming, and ignore the rest. That won't always work, but
here experience will be the best teacher.
GG is also useful for applying wax to the footring of a bisqued pot.
Use a cheapie foam brush; fast, easy, and you get an even application.
I have never mastered the art of throwing a footringless pot (and
I've been doing clay for more than 50 years [as a hobby]). You need
to open down to the final thickness of the bottom and throw to the
final thickness of the finished pot. Whenever I tried that, the pot
collapsed for want of a supporting base (which has to be trimmed off
later). If you're able to do that, that's good. You can wire off the
pot using a coiled wire which imparts texture to the bottom, push up
the bottom a little as you have been advised, and/or roll the edge.
Chucks: and there's another word for the chuck you hang a bowl on if
the bowl has an uneven rim but I forgot the word -- a clay flowerpot
can be used as a chuck, or a fired bowl which you would otherwise
consign to the hammer, as long as the rim is clean and even. Put a
coil of softish clay around the rim, put in the pot and place
everything on a LEVEL surface -- the only level surface in my studio
is my wheelhead. I use a small metal spirit level to determine if the
pot is level, adjust it if it isn't, and then use the rim clay to
secure the pot to the chuck (or whatever it's called). Then, place
chuck plus pot on the wheel and CENTER THE POT. Fasten the chuck
securely with pads of clay and start trimming.
Some of the above comes from books, some from clay classes and rest
from trial and error. You wind up doing whatever works FOR YOU.
Eleanor Kohler
Centerport, NY
One day I looked at a little bud vase I had made and wondered why it
was LEANING. That's when I appropriated the little spirit level from
my husband's workshop.
Alyssa Ettinger on sun 1 jul 07
ah trimming, the more i throw the better i get. i, personally, don't love
it. and my pots are often off-center and i love that my giffen gets me allow
for that by turning the pot till it's in the best place, and other tips
mentioned above.
what i love about trimming is that it can take my heavy bottomed pots and
make them even thickness. i'm not one of the potters who needs my work to be
"perfectly" even from top to bottom. i'm all about having a lovely piece in
the end that i've enjoyed making, far more than perfecting the technique.
for me, i know that this skill will come with more years of practicing. till
then, trimming tools are my friends.
alyssa
www.alyssaettinger.com
Donna Kat on sun 1 jul 07
My guess that if you are having problems centering your piece with the
griffen grip, then your top is not level and/or your floor or rim is not
thrown centered. When you finished throwing check that your rim is level
and centered. You can do this by holding a needling tool near the rim as
the wheel turns slowly. You should be able to see by eye if the rim is not
centered or/level. Center the rim if needed. If one side is higher than
the other, use the needling tool to even it.
If you want to try trimming without the griffen until you get the feel of
trimming down then there are a couple of things you can do to aid in
learning the process.
First, your pot should be dry enough that you can take a ruler and measure
the diameter of the rim without damaging it. When you get the measure then
take a pencil and with the ruler end held in the center of the wheel and
with the wheel turning mark the wheel head 1/2 the distance of the diameter
of the rim (plus just a smidge). You can then by eye put the pot within
this drawn circle after having dampened the wheel head just slightly. This
works if the floor and the rim are both centered. If the floor is off then
you want to center to the floor not the rim - in which case the pot will not
fit within this circle.
Second, look inside the pot and with your fingernail mark the outside bottom
of the foot where the inside wall begins. Do this in a couple of places.
When you get to the point of trimming you are going to trim directly down
about 1/4 of an inch outside this measure (depending on how thick your walls
are - in other words measure out the thickness of your wall). You can later
bring your foot inside this measure but this will give your initial trimming
to clean things up and show you the shape you are working with.
How you decide to make your bottom is entirely up to you. There is no
'right' bottom. What appeals to your taste is what is the right one. You
should however learn to make as many types of trimmed bottoms as you can.
One of my favorites is throwing the bottom the thickness you want the pot to
be (plus the little for cutting off) and cutting in with the wood knife to
trim the bottom edge. Dry the piece until you can handle it safely but
where it is still damp enough 'smooth'. Taking a wet hand cup the bottom of
the pot. With the dry hand holding the pot rotate the wet hand so that the
wet hand smooths the edge of the bottom. Then tap in the center of the
bottom to concave it a tad. This looks particulary nice with nice big beer
mugs that you want to have an earthy feel to - think 'Lord of the Rings'.
One day you will wonder why you ever were bothered by trimming. It will
come. Just give it time and patience.
Donna
steve graber on sun 1 jul 07
years ago i was told trimming could make a C cup into an A cup. ~ i was thinking of grades, but the girls in the class could only say "why would you want to do THAT?"
~ anyway...
some pieces can be made with minimal trimming, but to really class out a piece, you need to trim. i like it. it's like working on a wood lathe.
i go sometimes with a giffen grip, sometimes "natural" with lumps of clay.
see ya
steve
"The Steve Tool" - awesome texture on pots!
www.graberspottery.com
Anne Doyle wrote:
Hi Mike,
I had issues with trimming as well... & after losing many pieces and the
heartbreak of that, I learnt to slow down...
I loved my GG, it changed the learning curves landscape for me big-time,
but i since took another course and learnt to trim without it, and it was
better... took the dread out of the exercise for me...
I sometimes think now that in the trimming, the deeper beauty of a piece
is revealed... it goes from a clay pot to a piece with a story... i can
make a dozen bowls in a sitting, and although they're not identical,
(they're more like cousins really),with the trimming i can make them
pretty darn close... sometimes i got too eager in the beginning and
trimmed right through a bottom, but not so much anymore... i also had to
slow the drying down so i had better control, letting pieces air-dry was
not always the best cause when i was ready to trim, they weren't! Either
too soft or too dry, & not as nice for trimming...
i found that trimming is another exercise in centering only now with a
semi-formed piece rather than a ball of clay... there are no shortcuts for
that really, just practise, practise, practise... but once you "get it"
you'll wonder why you thought it was so tough...
Hope this helps...
Anne, in Saint-Sauveur,
looking forward to firing the test kiln tomorrow with a dozen new glaze
tests ready in it... Fun, Fun!!
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Russel Fouts on wed 4 jul 07
Me too!
When I throw, it try to create forms that don't need a trimmed foot.
Not every form needs a trimmed foot, you can get a similar visual
'lift' in several ways
- Cut the excess clay away while the pot is still upright on the
wheel, as soon as you finish and then undercut the base to make a
bevel that will give the necessary shadow that 'lifts' the pot off
the surface. One can get very clever with this with practice.
- Cut the excess clay away while the pot is still upright on the
wheel and then when the pot is near leather hard, 'roll' the bottom
edge or 'thumb' the bottom edge (or roll and thumb if necessary).
Rolling is a bit hard to describe in text but once you've seen it,
it's obvious. I won't try to describe it here. I'm hoping someone will jump in.
Thumbing is just running your thumb around the bottom edge to smooth it.
Using this method, you also get to 'pat' the bottom into a very
slight concave shape that will help prevent bottom cracking and give
a very slight 'foot'.
- Warren MacKenzie has a wonderful, solid stemmed goblet that he
makes entirely upright on the wheelhead. I saw him throw one once and
have one in my collection. Very nice.
- Throw the piece, let it get near leather hard, flip it over, add a
coil and throw your foot ring. But then you're getting back into
recentering and holding a near finished piece on the wheel again territory.
- Handbuild! No trimming needed here!
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
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mel jacobson on wed 24 oct 07
there is a strong theory that `writers block` does not
exist. it is all about being poorly organized.
if you do not have control of your trimming, turning, if you
are not organized in that phase of pottery...you will hate
it...because you don't know what you are doing.
LEARN TO DO IT CORRECTLY. then you will love it.
why did i apprentice in japan?
to learn to do every phase of pottery correctly.
LEARN THE CRAFT.
mel
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
Diane Luedemann on wed 24 oct 07
I love to trim pots, mainly because this is the chance I get to "chatter"
the piece. Just make sure your pot is on the dry side, and your trimming
tool sharp! Diane
On 10/24/07, mel jacobson wrote:
>
> there is a strong theory that `writers block` does not
> exist. it is all about being poorly organized.
>
> if you do not have control of your trimming, turning, if you
> are not organized in that phase of pottery...you will hate
> it...because you don't know what you are doing.
>
> LEARN TO DO IT CORRECTLY. then you will love it.
>
> why did i apprentice in japan?
> to learn to do every phase of pottery correctly.
> LEARN THE CRAFT.
> mel
>
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
RJ Shulenburg on thu 25 oct 07
There are all parts of the pottery process that are liked less than others
but the key concept to keep in mind is:
Your work might be around long after you are gone from this world...think
about how you want to be remembered...and do the best that you can.
Ronda
optionsinporcelain.com
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