Lee Love on wed 18 jul 07
Beth,
I don't do cone 6, but John's articles about photographing pots
has been very helpful.
Check them out:
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/articles/photopot1.html
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/articles/photopot2.html
My most expensive investment is the vinyl background. I am
using skylight florescent capsule lights for lighting.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
John Hesselberth on wed 18 jul 07
Hi Beth,
Well, it does require some equipment, but the cheapest, best way I
know of is to use fluorescent floods and a light tent. You can see
the writeup I did for the Pennsylvania Guild of Craftsmen by
downloading a pdf file at
ftp://ftp.frogpondpottery.com/DigitalHandout.pdf
Regards,
John
On Jul 18, 2007, at 10:57 AM, Beth Wallace wrote:
> I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking photos
> of some
> of my better pieces. Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
> suggestions would be welcome.
John Hesselberth
www.frogpondpottery.com
"Man is a tool-using animal....without tools he is nothing, with
tools he is all" .... Thomas Carlyle
Beth Wallace on wed 18 jul 07
I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking photos of some
of my better pieces. Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks for all of you professionals who are ALWAYS giving great advice.
Beth Wallace
Atlanta
Marcia Selsor on wed 18 jul 07
I f you don't have the ez cube and lights, the next best thing is
photograpghing outside in the shade on a sunny day.. I used a large
photo backdrop in "Thunder Gray" for my large pieces. I have an ez
cube and several sizes of varitone..gradated backdrop. I got the
varitone from Porters in IOWA.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Jul 18, 2007, at 9:57 AM, Beth Wallace wrote:
> I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking photos
> of some
> of my better pieces. Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
> suggestions would be welcome.
>
> Thanks for all of you professionals who are ALWAYS giving great
> advice.
> Beth Wallace
> Atlanta
>
Ingeborg Foco on wed 18 jul 07
Dear Beth,
In short, No. There is nothing that will take the place of the proper
equipment if you want your photos to look professional. There have been
many discussions on this subject as well as how to make your own soft box if
you are so inclined. I think you'll find good info in the archives. EZcube
is definitely easy and gives professional results if you also get the right
background and proper lights. The entire set up costs $300.
Good luck.
Ingeborg
www.thepottersworkshop.com
On 7/18/07, Beth Wallace wrote:
>
> I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking photos of some
> of my better pieces. Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
> suggestions would be welcome.
>
>
>
>
Arnold Howard on thu 19 jul 07
From: "Beth Wallace"
Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth,
> etc.?
Recently I photographed a piece of glass without flash,
special lighting, or props. You can see it here:
http://www.paragonweb.com/Kiln_Pointer.cfm?PID=257
I placed the glass on a piece of fabric in front of a large
window and shot the picture with a hand-held digital camera.
The beauty of digital is that you can see the results
instantly and adjust the angle or exposure.
The large window let in diffused light, which cast soft
shadows. This usually shows more detail than specular light,
which you would have if the sun shone directly onto the
window.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Jennifer Boyer on thu 19 jul 07
I'm the ultimate do-it-yourselfer and had a homemade light tent for
years, using a technique similar to that described below,
BUT the commercial light tents you can find on Ebay are just BETTER.
The fabric diffuses light better than anything I could find at the
art supply store.
If you take into consideration your time spent building something and
the cost of materials, I think it pays to lay out the 40.00
(including shipping!) or so you'd spend on a light tent on Ebay. I
bought a small one just to see what they are like and they are just
as good as the expensive ones for sale on the web.
Ebay has made this technology ubiquitous, and we potters can finally
take it easy and buy something ready-made that perfectly meets our
needs.
Jennifer
On Jul 18, 2007, at 8:44 PM, iglasgo wrote:
> Beth,
> you can make a so-called ten-dollar studio tent, using the
> instructions here:
> http://reverb.madstatic.com/blog/2006/04/01/make-a-photo-light-box-
> light-tent-cheap/
> Here is another version:
> http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-
> studio.html
>
> It is way cheaper than an EZtent and has worked reasonably well for
> me, for taking photos of small things like tiles. I used a quarter
> sheet of 2-ply cold press Strathmore illustration board for the
> backdrop, and drafting vellum for the translucent sides. I need to
> make a bigger one for bigger objects.
> I use plain ol' light bulbs (not the blue ones) in hardware-store
> clamp lamps. Make sure to set the camera to "tungsten" white balance
> and to force the lowest ISO possible (80).
> A tripod really is an essential piece of equipment. A new one can be
> had for about $30. Plasticky and cheap, but it works.
>
> Hope this helps.
> -Ivy G.
>
> --- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Beth Wallace wrote:
>>
>> I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking photos of
> some
>> of my better pieces. Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
>> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
>> suggestions would be welcome.
>>
>> Thanks for all of you professionals who are ALWAYS giving great
>> advice.
>> Beth Wallace
>> Atlanta
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
>> Send postings to clayart@...
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@...
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
*****************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
*****************************
John Sankey on thu 19 jul 07
"I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking
photos of some of my better pieces."
This depends on what you want to use the photos for. If you want
studio quality 8x10s, Ingeborg Foco is correct (add a tripod and
good camera to her list), but if you only need web quality,
things can be much easier.
The simplest way to take photos that look fine on the web is to
simply walk around your own home with your piece until you find a
lighting that makes it look its best. For background, look
through your sheets etc. Then, use a camera with a decent lens
and focussing system (the Canon PowerShot is the least expensive
one that meets this criteria in my experience) and learn how to
use its focussing modes so your photos are sharp. Move up when
you are ready, bit by bit.
Also, locate a copy of LViewPro (the 16-bit version is free) to
clean up your photos for posting. Far too many websites have
image files that are ten times as large as they need to be,
because they load two or more versions of the image into their
files (preview images are almost ubiquitous) - LView is the best
cleanup software I know of. (It also allows you to adjust colours
etc. so that the image on your computer screen looks like the
piece.)
--
(Add 'Byrd' to the subject line of your reply to get through my spam filter)
iglasgo on thu 19 jul 07
Beth,
you can make a so-called ten-dollar studio tent, using the
instructions here:
http://reverb.madstatic.com/blog/2006/04/01/make-a-photo-light-box-light-te=
nt-cheap/
Here is another version:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html
It is way cheaper than an EZtent and has worked reasonably well for
me, for taking photos of small things like tiles. I used a quarter
sheet of 2-ply cold press Strathmore illustration board for the
backdrop, and drafting vellum for the translucent sides. I need to
make a bigger one for bigger objects.
I use plain ol' light bulbs (not the blue ones) in hardware-store
clamp lamps. Make sure to set the camera to "tungsten" white balance
and to force the lowest ISO possible (80).
A tripod really is an essential piece of equipment. A new one can be
had for about $30. Plasticky and cheap, but it works.
Hope this helps.
-Ivy G.
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Beth Wallace wrote:
>
> I am a home hobbyist/potter and would like to start taking photos of
some
> of my better pieces. Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
> suggestions would be welcome.
>
> Thanks for all of you professionals who are ALWAYS giving great advice.
> Beth Wallace
> Atlanta
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________=
___
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@...
>
Gayle Bair on fri 20 jul 07
After spending several years trying to avoid
buying an EZcube I broke down and bought one.
I used just about every imaginable (some quite goofy) contraptions
& set ups. I tried several suggested by Clayarters e.g.
cardboard, pvc, formica, various hanging systems.
My personal favorite was a white 5 gal glaze tub with formica background
which
catapulted a mug I had just photographed across the room.
I was trying to invent a square wheel!
After I finished laughing I realized I was nutz and ordered an ezcube.
It's great and folds flat. I bought the set even though I had lights. It
works great.
I have the 30" which came with a 12". I use cheap poster board, photo grey
paper,
or the white backdrop that came with the set. Easy & fast... my other
systems were
most definitely not fast.
Gayle Bair - still laughing thinking about that mug flying through the
air...
clear across the studio!
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jennifer Boyer
I'm the ultimate do-it-yourselfer and had a homemade light tent for
years, using a technique similar to that described below,
BUT the commercial light tents you can find on Ebay are just BETTER.
The fabric diffuses light better than anything I could find at the
art supply store.
If you take into consideration your time spent building something and
the cost of materials, I think it pays to lay out the 40.00
(including shipping!) or so you'd spend on a light tent on Ebay. I
bought a small one just to see what they are like and they are just
as good as the expensive ones for sale on the web.
Ebay has made this technology ubiquitous, and we potters can finally
take it easy and buy something ready-made that perfectly meets our
needs.
Jennifer
On Jul 18, 2007, at 8:44 PM, iglasgo wrote:
> Beth,
> you can make a so-called ten-dollar studio tent,
Is there a simple way to take decent photos of
>> ceramics without having special lighting, fancy cloth, etc.? Any
>> suggestions would be welcome.
>>
>> Thanks for all of you professionals who are ALWAYS giving great
>> advice.
>> Beth Wallace
>> Atlanta
>>
>>
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.10/908 - Release Date: 7/19/2007
6:10 PM
JoAnne Willemsen on mon 23 jul 07
Dear Beth, I've had good luck using my digital camera to photograph my=
work . . . . I use my dining room table as a base, two large pieces =
of white (or black) board as the floor and back wall of my "gallery",=
then using a roll of white (or black) heavy weight paper over the boa=
rd. I have two utility lights, each 500 watt capable. I put my camer=
a on a tripod, my lights on either side of the dining table, and place=
my pottery in the center of it all. Sometimes I have to hold onto on=
e of the utility lights to increase the light from above, depending on=
the pottery I'm photographing. Not an expensive project but the CD's=
look good enough to get into the galleries I've sent images to. I'll=
admit that a picture cube would be great but for this moment in time =
this is a lot cheaper and is working for me. Hope this information he=
lps you a bit....Jo=0D=0A=
Beth Spindler on tue 24 jul 07
I think this was meant for another Beth on the list???
Beth in VA
-----Original Message-----
From: JoAnne Willemsen
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 12:11 am
Subject: Re: How to photograph work
Dear Beth, I've had good luck using my digital camera to photograph my work . .
. . I use my dining room table as a base, two large pieces of white (or black)
board as the floor and back wall of my "gallery", then using a roll of white (or
black) heavy weight paper over the board. I have two utility lights, each 500
watt capable. I put my camera on a tripod, my lights on either side of the
dining table, and place my pottery in the center of it all. Sometimes I have to
hold onto one of the utility lights to increase the light from above, depending
on the pottery I'm photographing. Not an expensive project but the CD's look
good enough to get into the galleries I've sent images to. I'll admit that a
picture cube would be great but for this moment in time this is a lot cheaper
and is working for me. Hope this information helps you a bit....Jo
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
Anne Webb on wed 25 jul 07
Hey Gayle & Jennifer ..I just bought a similar
light tent on ebay as well. The price wasn't bad.. around $30 for a 28"
cube tent. Comes with 3 different backdrops - white, grey, and black.=20
Folds up lickity split for easy storage and portability. For somewhere
around the same price I also got these 5500K 45W compact florescent
bulbs (4 of them) - bigger than the home depot variety. I am using
those inexpensive clamp on shop lights to house them.Would be
interested to hear what lights & lighting configuration works best
for you. .. you know how difficult it is to photography a glossy glaze,
even with a light tent, and not get a glare from the lights on your
pots. While my photos are considerably better, I am still
experimenting with light placement.Lighting configurations they
suggest in the various listings may work fine with a small flat item
but as you have probably already found, they are just not feasible for
photographing pots.Anne> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 10:31:23 -0700 > After spen=
ding several years trying to avoid> buying an EZcube I broke down and bough=
t one.> It's great and folds flat. I bought the set even though I had=
lights. It> works great.> I have the 30" which came with a 12". I use chea=
p poster board, photo grey> paper, > or the white backdrop that came with t=
he set. Easy & fast... my other> systems were> most definitely not fast.> >=
Gayle Bair > -----Original Message-----> From: Jennifer Boyer> > I'm the =
ultimate do-it-yourselfer and had a homemade light tent for> years, using a=
technique similar to that described below,> BUT the commercial light tents=
you can find on Ebay are just BETTER.> The fabric diffuses light better th=
an anything I could find at the> art supply store.
_________________________________________________________________
See what you=92re getting into=85before you go there.
http://newlivehotmail.com=
John Kudlacek on sat 28 jul 07
As far as glossy glazes go, you will always have hot spots. These
can be reduced by using a polarizing filter. You'd be surprised too, that
glazes you would not call glossy still have a subtle reflective surface and
can be enhanced with the use of the filter.
Upon the suggestion of a professional photographer I have touched up
hot spots on pots with rubber cement before snapping the shutter.
John Kudlacek
Gayle Bair on sat 28 jul 07
Interesting.... rubber cement eh?
I have some spray on rubber cement.
I'd recommend spraying it with more than adequate ventilation...
like outside with a mask.
Gayle Bair- remembers the days when cut and paste was really that not the
touch of a
keyboard or mouse. Dontcha love the smell of rubber cement in the morning???
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Kudlacek
As far as glossy glazes go, you will always have hot spots. These
can be reduced by using a polarizing filter. You'd be surprised too, that
glazes you would not call glossy still have a subtle reflective surface and
can be enhanced with the use of the filter.
Upon the suggestion of a professional photographer I have touched up
hot spots on pots with rubber cement before snapping the shutter.
John Kudlacek
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.23/924 - Release Date: 7/28/2007
3:50 PM
John Sankey on sun 29 jul 07
"As far as glossy glazes go, you will always have hot spots.
These can be reduced by using a polarizing filter. You'd be
surprised too, that glazes you would not call glossy still have a
subtle reflective surface and can be enhanced with the use of the
filter."
Many years ago I was taking science-journal photos of small
electronic components on etched circuit boards that were glossy
and matte, stainless, aluminum or black, and all of them had to
be recognizable by people who were familiar with them.
First, use polarizing filters both on the camera and on each of
your main lights. That lets you adjust the intensity of hot spots
regardless of the angle of reflection. (Reflection off some
surfaces is polarized depending on the angle, not of other
surfaces.)
Second, use a scrap of dry ice to cool matte areas, then blow
gently on them just before opening the shutter - the fogging of
moisture from your breath is very useful to give roundness to
objects.
All my work was done in B&W, but both these techniques work
equally well in colour. The coloured filters I also used won't.
--
(Add 'Byrd' to the subject line of your reply to get through my spam filter)
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