Elizabeth Priddy on wed 25 jul 07
If you plan an unglazed tip at the top of it,=0Ayou can lean it with the ti=
p resting on the=0Akilnbrick at the top.=0A=0A=0A =0AElizabeth Priddy=0ABea=
ufort, NC - USA=0A =0ANatural Instincts Conference Information:=0Ahttp://do=
wntothepottershouse.com/NaturalInstincts.html=0Ahttp://www.elizabethpriddy.=
com=0Ahttp://www.flickr.com/photos/7973282@N03/=0A=0A=0A =0A_________=
___________________________________________________________________________=
=0AMoody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. =
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.=0Ahttp://sims.yahoo.com/
Jenni Meredith on wed 25 jul 07
Hi
can anyone help with suggestions about how to fire tall thin sculptures
that have points both ends?
I want to create a non ceramic base for these pieces once fired and glazed
and I don't want the forms to have bases so they won't stand up on the kiln
shelf. I have a top loading electric kiln and i am using a white raku, or
maybe a white stoneware (sculpture) body, but firing only to about 1000
(bisque) and 1020-1060 (glost)
I thought of a couple of ideas that might work, but wondered if any one has
any ideas, or experience at firing objects that don't stand alone?
Jenni Meredith
UK
Snail Scott on thu 26 jul 07
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 21:25:57 -0500
From: Jenni Meredith
>...can anyone help with suggestions about how to fire tall thin sculptures that have points both ends?
Here are a couple of possibilities:
1: Are they glazed? If not, lay them on their
sides if short enough, or lean against the
side of the kiln of they are taller. I think
this works best on a manual kiln where you
can set the elements on low power for a nice
long time. Computerized kilns and those with
universal switches alternate between full
power and off instead of using partial power,
and I think that's tougher on work that's
right up next to the elements
2a: Make a clay 'cradle' or props to support the
form in places where a lack of glaze will be
less evident, or look like a design element.
If the bare contact areas between the supports
and the work are not just on the lowest point
of the form, and are small and carefully shaped,
it won't look so much like awkward sideways
'dry-footing'. Bare patches which form a
deliberate pattern across the whole piece can
be integrated into a design, not just being
random unavoidable blots. The contact points of
the support cradle can be quite pointy and
small, too, if your clay isn't too pyroplastic.
2b: A variation on this is to use Kanthal wire
(bits of kiln element wire) in the contact points
of your supports, allowing you to have a fully
glazed surface. If you are firing to stoneware
temperatures or above, and especially if the work
is heavy, use multiple points of support to
prevent the wire from being bent during firing.
It's more work to make a custom one-use firing
cradle for each piece, but if the design is worth
the effort, you might consider it.
3: Make or cut the object in two pieces, with the
joint at a wide spot. Fire the parts on the joint
surface, and epoxy it together after firing.
A thoughtfully planned joint can be an elegant
design element, especially in an unexpected
place. It could be hidden afterward, but making
it a definite 'feature' could be striking!
Hope some of these options may work for you.
-Snail
Charles on thu 26 jul 07
How about a chuck to act as a base in the kiln? =0A =0A=0A=0AVisit me on th=
e web www.hughespottery.com=0A=0A=0AInterested in lessons? www.thecreativeo=
asis.com=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jenni Meredi=
th =0ATo: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0ASent: Wednesd=
ay, July 25, 2007 10:25:57 PM=0ASubject: [CLAYART] Firing pots that won't s=
tand up=0A=0A=0AHi=0A=0Acan anyone help with suggestions about how to fire =
tall thin sculptures=0Athat have points both ends?=0A=0AI want to create a =
non ceramic base for these pieces once fired and glazed=0Aand I don't want=
the forms to have bases so they won't stand up on the kiln=0Ashelf. I have=
a top loading electric kiln and i am using a white raku, or=0Amaybe a whit=
e stoneware (sculpture) body, but firing only to about 1000=0A(bisque) and =
1020-1060 (glost)=0A=0AI thought of a couple of ideas that might work, but =
wondered if any one has=0Aany ideas, or experience at firing objects that d=
on't stand alone?=0A=0A=0AJenni Meredith=0A=0AUK=0A=0A_____________________=
_________________________________________________________=0ASend postings t=
o clayart@lsv.ceramics.org=0A=0AYou may look at the archives for the list o=
r change your subscription=0Asettings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/=
=0A=0AModerator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@p=
clink.com.
Jenni Meredith on sun 29 jul 07
Thanks to everyone who responded to this with all your various
ideas. Some of those sparked off other design ideas and all helped
me work out a solution I think will work.
If it does work I will let you know which method did.
Have written to all of you personally too,
Thanks
Jenni
| |
|
