Jim Kasper on wed 1 aug 07
Dave,
Thanks for asking this question. I use a proprietary ^6 Porcelain
(Axners Mary's VI) and have tried a variety of deflocculated slips formulas.
I seem to have the best luck with unadulterated slip.
So my question would be: "Is it just me, or do these formulas work less well
with Porcelains?"
Thanks,
Jim
Posted by: "Dave Finkelnburg" idahopottery@YAHOO.COM
Charles,
Do you do this with a stoneware clay or a porcelain
body? Thanks!
Dave Finkelnburg, "handling" mugs at the
moment...
From: Charles
I take a scoop of thick slip from the way down deep
scary bottom of my reclaim bin, add a drop or two of
sodium silicate and corn syrup to taste..really I add
it till it has a nice thick oozy consistency, then use
it to apply handles, attatch pots etc.
Zafka Studios
Jensen Beach, FL
http://zafka.com
772-334-3070
Dave Finkelnburg on wed 1 aug 07
Jim,
I hope others will chime in. I do not know enough
about this subject.
Haldor Hjalmarson, who works strictly with c10
B-mix and sprigs heavily, uses a deflocculated slip.
Most factories use deflocculated slip to attach
porcelain pieces to each other.
My experience has been that the closer the
moisture content of the piece and the attachment are
to each other, the greater the chance joining will
succeed. The dryer the two pieces are the more
critical it is to use an attaching slip.
BTW, your cheerful yellow fish whistle continues
to grace my kitchen windowsill and brighten up my
mornings!
Good potting,
Dave Finkelnburg
From: Jim Kasper
Thanks for asking this question. I use a
proprietary ^6 Porcelain
(Axners Mary's VI) and have tried a variety of
deflocculated slips formulas.
I seem to have the best luck with unadulterated slip.
So my question would be: "Is it just me, or do these
formulas work less well
with Porcelains?"
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Ivor and Olive Lewis on thu 2 aug 07
Dear Dave Finkelnburg,=20
Have to agree with your summation there.
So, by the time most people are about to attach parts to a carcase the =
carcase with be coming close to leather hard. What would your assessment =
of the moisture content of leather hard clay be? My estimate is 15% =
though a few tests would confirm or deny that value. If moulded parts =
are allowed to set up before application they should be between 15-20% =
water.
If you make a fluid slip from clay without additives moisture will be up =
toward 40%. If, as some folk do, it is slops form the wheel pan it could =
be higher.
Realising this I started to use deflocculated slip almost two decades =
ago. Keep a supply in ketchup squirters, Lasts of ages., just need a =
quick shake and it is ready to use. As Tony told us, no need to score =
the carcase.
Very interesting science involved.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Ron Roy on thu 2 aug 07
Hi everyone - not sure why my name is in the subject line - I do use
deflocculated slip whem decorating for my tenmoku pots - I found it cured
the cracking in the slip.
RR
>Dave,
> Thanks for asking this question. I use a proprietary ^6 Porcelain
>(Axners Mary's VI) and have tried a variety of deflocculated slips formulas.
>I seem to have the best luck with unadulterated slip.
>So my question would be: "Is it just me, or do these formulas work less well
>with Porcelains?"
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
>Posted by: "Dave Finkelnburg" idahopottery@YAHOO.COM
>Charles,
>Do you do this with a stoneware clay or a porcelain
>body? Thanks!
>Dave Finkelnburg, "handling" mugs at the
>moment...
>
>From: Charles
>I take a scoop of thick slip from the way down deep
>scary bottom of my reclaim bin, add a drop or two of
>sodium silicate and corn syrup to taste..really I add
>it till it has a nice thick oozy consistency, then use
>it to apply handles, attatch pots etc.
>
>Zafka Studios
>Jensen Beach, FL
>http://zafka.com
>772-334-3070
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
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Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
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