John Rodgers on sun 12 aug 07
If the pieces are still very green - ie, very wet still, I just use the
same slip at the same density as the pieces cast. It works just fine. If
it has dried a bit, I will rough up the surface, wet the surfaces with
Lana Wilson's Magic Water, then use regular slip to "glue" them
together. If they have begun to dry out, I use a paper clay slip. I work
the surfaces with Magic water, then use the paper clay slip as the
"Glue". Boy, does that stuff hold. I also use the paper clay slip on
bone dry pieces as well, but I will put a piee of paper towel over the
spot to be glued and attached, wet with Magic Water several times, then
apply the paper clay slip. That works as well. For bisque repair, use
calcined clay in the paper clay.
In some applications you can build a bridge of paper clay across a gap
between two pieces. I make a certain type of decorative/functional piece
and the the handle will break every time as it dries. I have tried
everything. Now, in order to control the break rather than have it occur
at random, I cut through the handle. When dry, or almost dry, there is
considerable gaposis that has opened up. After drying, I build a bridge
of paper clay between the ends, and then when dry smooth the patch out
and fair it into the surrounding pieces. The paper burns out.
John Sankey wrote:
> What do people recommend as the density for a slip that is being
> used to glue clay pieces together? I'm using sodium silicate and
> it pours almost like water no matter how much clay I put in!
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John Sankey on sun 12 aug 07
What do people recommend as the density for a slip that is being
used to glue clay pieces together? I'm using sodium silicate and
it pours almost like water no matter how much clay I put in!
(Add 'Byrd' to the subject line of your reply to get through my spam filter)