David Hendley on mon 13 aug 07
Willie Helix is a classic example of a high-copper glaze.
It can turn red, and is often red and green on the same piece, in
reduction - in oxidation, it would stay all green. On functional
ware, I would want to test it for possible copper leaching.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
>I have a glaze that is a deep green- it is ^10,- Willie Helix Green, I
> believe. You can probably find it online- I am away right now, clear
> across
> the state, helping my daughter move- so I don't have my glaze recipe book
> here. I do fire reduction, but it may work oxidation as well. Anyone
> using
> this glaze in oxidation?
>
> On 8/13/07, John Sankey wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone found a way of getting a reasonably dark green with
>> natural oxides (not commercial stains/frits) in a functional
>> glaze? All the copper glazes I've tried are a washed-out colour
>> unless so much copper is added that it would leach. A trace of
>> cobalt helps, but not enough. I'm running ^6, but would be
>> willing to try any cone level up to 10 as long as it's oxidizing
James and Sherron Bowen on mon 13 aug 07
For me one of the more interesting green glazes I have seen is the one used
on Teco pottery made by American Terra Cotta Company from the arts and craft
movement. They were famous for making pots for Frank Lloyd Wright. The glaze
is commonly referred to as Teco Green.
http://www.terracottabuildings.com/
I don't know what temperature it is fired to but I suspect somewhere around
cone 5. Its interesting feature is the charcoling effect on the surface . It
seems to have areas that look like graphite. Anyone know of this glaze?
JB
John Sankey on mon 13 aug 07
Has anyone found a way of getting a reasonably dark green with
natural oxides (not commercial stains/frits) in a functional
glaze? All the copper glazes I've tried are a washed-out colour
unless so much copper is added that it would leach. A trace of
cobalt helps, but not enough. I'm running ^6, but would be
willing to try any cone level up to 10 as long as it's oxidizing
(electric kiln).
--
(Add 'Byrd' to the subject line of your reply to get through my spam filter)
David Hendley on mon 13 aug 07
It's simple to formulate a dark green glaze with chrome oxide.
Like cobalt, it will produce a stable color throughout most
types of glazes and firing temperatures.
Chrome is very refractory, so it can make an already-matt
glaze too matt, and the glaze would have to be adjusted. Also, the
color can be "too green", lacking character, dimension, and subtlety.
For me, at cone 10, the best chrome green glazes, to produce a
nice forest green, have about 1 1/2-to-2% chrome oxide, plus half
that amount of cobalt carbonate. I don't think I would ever use
chrome as the only colorant in a glaze - I would always modify
it with another oxide or mineral, such as rutile or titanium.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
Pat Lindemann on mon 13 aug 07
I have a glaze that is a deep green- it is ^10,- Willie Helix Green, I
believe. You can probably find it online- I am away right now, clear across
the state, helping my daughter move- so I don't have my glaze recipe book
here. I do fire reduction, but it may work oxidation as well. Anyone using
this glaze in oxidation?
On 8/13/07, John Sankey wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a way of getting a reasonably dark green with
> natural oxides (not commercial stains/frits) in a functional
> glaze? All the copper glazes I've tried are a washed-out colour
> unless so much copper is added that it would leach. A trace of
> cobalt helps, but not enough. I'm running ^6, but would be
> willing to try any cone level up to 10 as long as it's oxidizing
> (electric kiln).
>
> --
> (Add 'Byrd' to the subject line of your reply to get through my spam
> filter)
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
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>
Jim Willett on tue 14 aug 07
On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:24:07 -0400, John Sankey
wrote:
>Has anyone found a way of getting a reasonably dark green with
>natural oxides (not commercial stains/frits) in a functional
>glaze? All the copper glazes I've tried are a washed-out colour
>unless so much copper is added that it would leach. A trace of
>cobalt helps, but not enough. I'm running ^6, but would be
>willing to try any cone level up to 10 as long as it's oxidizing
>(electric kiln).
Hi John,
We have a green glaze that is very stable, very repeatable, and very
durable. I've put a couple of pages on our site with the recipe and a
photograph of a four year old mug that has been used daily and seen the
inside of a dishwasher many many times.
http://www.outofthefirestudio.com/emerald.html
This is on a red clay with high iron content, however we have used it on
white clay with similar results. Just remember thicker is better and as
always your actual results may vary.
Regards,
Jim Willett
Out of the Fire Studio
Edmonton
http://www.outofthefirestudio.com
Eleanora Eden on tue 14 aug 07
Have you considered using some chrome green? I know it is real
refractory but it is so much stronger a green than copper. Mix it
with a tad of cobalt for more of a forest green color......
Eleanora
>Has anyone found a way of getting a reasonably dark green with
>natural oxides (not commercial stains/frits) in a functional
>glaze? All the copper glazes I've tried are a washed-out colour
>unless so much copper is added that it would leach. A trace of
>cobalt helps, but not enough. I'm running ^6, but would be
>willing to try any cone level up to 10 as long as it's oxidizing
>(electric kiln).
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
Gay Judson on tue 14 aug 07
Jim, That is a wonderful Emerald Green glaze on your mug. Thanks for
sharing it with us! Gay Judson
Timothy Joko-Veltman on tue 14 aug 07
My mentor had a dark green with 8 Rutile, 3 RIO, and 1 Cobalt Oxide
... however, keep in mind that the rutile+cobalt mix depends a lot on
the base. No pix at the moment, but I'll see if I can't find any.
I prefer this combo to chrome because then I don't have to worry about
pink flashing in my tin glazes.
Regards,
Tim
On 8/14/07, Gay Judson wrote:
> Jim, That is a wonderful Emerald Green glaze on your mug. Thanks for
> sharing it with us! Gay Judson
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
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